Building a KISS, first and maybe only bolt gun

[Nephrology]

So right now I literally own 0 rifles. The last rifle I had was a Marlin Model 60 .22 that was constantly breaking and became a running joke among my friends.

Now that I live in CO and have access to some great rifle facilities, I am entertaining the idea of slowly putting together a nice bolt action rifle that I will be happy to own and shoot for a long time. However, I know diddly-squat about rifles and don't want to spend my money frivolously or on poor quality kit. So school me on what I want for a bolt action rifle and how I can get it there at the best value per dollar (neither buying something cheap that I'll replace 5 years down the line, nor going whole hog and maxing out my Visa, either). This is a project I don't plan on putting money into for at least another 6 months so I am happy to take my time and do it right.

So first - caliber. I was leaning towards .308 for price, recoil and convenience, but some have suggested that .30-06 might give me better performance at a distance and open up more opportunities for handloading in the future. I know nothing about this myself so your thoughts are welcome.

Action - Remington or Savage or other? Stock? Glass? Build it myself or have someone put it together for me? I know nothing about this stuff guys - any input is welcome.

[nycnoob]

I bought a Tikka in 308 after the good reviews on this forum.
They have updated the design with minor improvements since
last summer. Its guaranteed less than 1 MOA with factory ammo.

Tikka-bolt-action-rifles (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?18529-Tikka-bolt-action-rifles)

Remington-700-vs-Tikka-T3 (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?10934-Remington-700-vs-Tikka-T3&highlight=tikka)

[TheRoland]

Honestly, more details about what you want to do with it, and what the budget is, will really matter.

[Nephrology]

Honestly, more details about what you want to do with it, and what the budget is, will really matter.

Purpose is fairly general. I am not a hunter (yet) and if I decided to get into hunting I would get a different rifle. I do not plan on using this to compete in any specific precision rifle competitions (would get a different rifle for that too). This would really be just for the sake of having a centerfire rifle that can make full use of the rifle facilities at my range and that will be good to learn the basics of precision rifle shooting. I do want to be light and rugged enough to be a "SHTF" kind of rifle, but that's also not an eventuality I am seriously preparing for. I just like owning gear that I feel like I could stake my life on if need be.

Budget can be flexible - whatever it takes to get in the door. I want a durable, accurate, dependable rifle; I don't want to compromise on quality, but I also don't want obscenely expensive gear, either. If this was a handgun purchase, it would be a glock. Not crap like Taurus but not as over-engineered as an H&K or as finely put together as a custom 1911. Hope that analogy makes sense. Whatever the money it takes to get to this balance of cost and quality I am willing to save up - like I said, I'm not in a rush.

[Duces Tecum]

SNIP If this was a handgun purchase, it would be a Glock.

Glocks have massive after-market support, parts are easily found and simple to replace. They make, I think, splendid general purpose pistols. The rifle equivalent might be an AR-15 of some sort, perhaps the Colt 6920. Caliber conversions are available.

[SMD]

Old school: pre-64 Winchester Model 70 Featherweight in 30-06.

New school: Tikka T3 in .308.

Have fun with your choice!

[TheRoland]

Tikka is a great rifle if you're concerned about weight. It's a good general purpose choice, but like the poster above implied, ARs really own this space in many ways.

If you're more interested in shooting supported positions, like has become really popular through things like PRS matches, see if you can get your hands on a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 or .308.

Somewhere between the two would be some flavor of FN SPR.

[Nephrology]

Tikka is a great rifle if you're concerned about weight. It's a good general purpose choice, but like the poster above implied, ARs really own this space in many ways.

If you're more interested in shooting supported positions, like has become really popular through things like PRS matches, see if you can get your hands on a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 or .308.

Somewhere between the two would be some flavor of FN SPR.

I am not interested in 5.56mm ARs because I live in CO and we have a >15rd mag limit. I also want to shoot farther than the effective range of 5.56 as I have the facilities to do so. .308 seemed like a good compromise caliber and I suppose I liked the idea of bolt rifles more than semi-autos but would be open to being talked into a .308 AR-10 if that is truly a better option.

[Kiniffy]

Take a look at the ruger american rifle line hits all the need buttons for a fun-useful shooter, my new step dad is takeing my mom out next fall with her .270 wedding present for deer. She's 53 1st time ever interested in huntinh besides cooking the results

[MistWolf]

I am an Old School Remington Guy and when I think "bolt action" I think Remington 700. However, to get your feet wet, I suggest you take a hard look at a Savage. Very economical, has a good trigger and by all reports, is very precise out of the box. It will get you up and shooting without a large outlay in cash and in shooting, you will learn what features work, what doesn't and how you really want your rifle configured. If it turns out the Savage isn't what you want, you can sell it to recover most of your money.

The largest portion of your money will be taken up by optics. For more years than I care to count, I've always been able to count on Leupold for getting about the best glass for the dollar. When it comes to scopes, pay for the glass, not the features

[pangloss]

High price: Sako 85 Black Bear
Low price: Ruger American

Right now I'm very taken with the idea of buying the Sako, but it is just out of my budget.

Disclaimer: I shoot a Ruger #1 and have very little experience with bolt guns.

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[okie john]

I am an Old School Remington Guy and when I think "bolt action" I think Remington 700. However, to get your feet wet, I suggest you take a hard look at a Savage. Very economical, has a good trigger and by all reports, is very precise out of the box. It will get you up and shooting without a large outlay in cash and in shooting, you will learn what features work, what doesn't and how you really want your rifle configured. If it turns out the Savage isn't what you want, you can sell it to recover most of your money.

The largest portion of your money will be taken up by optics. For more years than I care to count, I've always been able to count on Leupold for getting about the best glass for the dollar. When it comes to scopes, pay for the glass, not the features

The Savage would be a good call for a new rifle.

But I'd prowl the pawn shops looking for an older Winchester M-70 Featherweight or a Remington M-700 BDL with a 22" barrel and some kind of Leupold scope. I'd get either 308, 30/06, or 270 because ammo for those calibers is good, cheap, and common. That rifle will serve all over the world for anything shy of dangerous game.

Around here, you'd be able to find any of those rifles used without much trouble. I'd budget ~$900 for a pre-64 Model 70, and $6-700 for the others. Chances are that it will already be broken in, so all you have to do is clean the bore with Sweet's, double-check the action screws, and hit the range. If the scope acts up, then you can send it back to Leupold for a rebuild, which is usually either cheap or free.


Okie John

[SLG]

I am an Old School Remington Guy and when I think "bolt action" I think Remington 700. However, to get your feet wet, I suggest you take a hard look at a Savage. Very economical, has a good trigger and by all reports, is very precise out of the box. It will get you up and shooting without a large outlay in cash and in shooting, you will learn what features work, what doesn't and how you really want your rifle configured. If it turns out the Savage isn't what you want, you can sell it to recover most of your money.

The largest portion of your money will be taken up by optics. For more years than I care to count, I've always been able to count on Leupold for getting about the best glass for the dollar. When it comes to scopes, pay for the glass, not the features

I agree with this except for the last sentence.

Savage precision rifles are the Glocks of the rifle world. The Tikkas are a step up, but not necessarily "better." It really depends exactly what you want to do with the gun, and that will determine weight/profile and caliber. How far do you want to shoot? Under what conditions? Carry the gun? Do you want to leave it as is, or modify it a lot? Modify it immediately, or over time? All of these things will determine the best gun for you.

As for the scope, pay for the mechanical reliability, then the features, then the glass. That is, if the scope doesn't do what you tell it to do, every time, it is useless, and will hamper your learning tremendously. If it has an inappropriate reticle and mismatched turrets, then those features will hamper you. If it has only mediocre glass, then you won't want to stare through it for long periods, or take it on a low light hunt, but otherwise, the glass really doesn't matter at all.

An intelligently chosen Leupold will certainly do what you want. A NF will do it better. A Vortex will do it worse or better than the Leupold, depending which way you go with them. There are other choices as well, but for me, Leupold is the lower end and NF is the upper end.

[Nephrology]

I agree with this except for the last sentence.

Savage precision rifles are the Glocks of the rifle world. The Tikkas are a step up, but not necessarily "better." It really depends exactly what you want to do with the gun, and that will determine weight/profile and caliber. How far do you want to shoot? Under what conditions? Carry the gun? Do you want to leave it as is, or modify it a lot? Modify it immediately, or over time? All of these things will determine the best gun for you.

1) I definitely want to be able the carry the gun, but I won't be out hunting in alpine terran for 8-10 hours or anything like that. 2) I want to be able to shoot out to 500 yards at a minimum - ideally, 700-800 yards. 3) Conditions will be typical range days - i.e. nice enough that I want to be there for long enough to shoot the gun, but I don't want the gun to be so delicate that rain, etc make it inoperable. 4) I will most definitely want to modify it, but I'd like the modifications to be simple and purposeful. I'd probably prefer doing most of the immediate + necessary modifications up front (Glass, bipod) but I don't mind doing some things over time (trigger, stock, maybe better glass?).

What model savage rifles are good to look into?

[RevolverRob]

You might be well served by one of the various pre-built Scout examples. The Ruger Gunsite Scout Rifle or the Savage 11 Scout Rifle. Neither one is going to be benchrest, competition, accurate, but MOA is viable with both. You will get a nice reliable .308 bolt platform and can spend some time behind it, before deciding what you want to build.

I have a Ruger GSR right now, as a general-purpose bolt gun it leaves very little to be desired, even with iron sights. This year my anniversary present from the wife is a Leupold 1..5-4x28 VX-2 Scout scope and a couple of hundred rounds of .308, to play with.

[JM Campbell]

Suppressor ready.

http://www.impactguns.com/savage-10p-308-limited-run-rifle-heavy-20in-barrel-custom-bolt-22075-011356220752.aspx

http://www.impactguns.com/savage-arms-10-fcp-sr-short-action-308-win-24in-matte-black-011356224415.aspx

http://www.impactguns.com/savage-10-fp-sr-308-22in-threaded-barrel-silencer-ready-19127-011356191274.aspx

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[HCM]

If you don't reload I would go with .308. The Tikka or a synthetic stock Ruger GSR in .308 would be my first recommendations for a GP bolt gun.

Remington 700's, pre-64 Winchester Model 70's or current production Winchester Model 70's are good choices, as are the Steyr SBs/pro hunter's.

I'm a fan of AR-10's but it seems there isn't much in the way of "mid Grade" AR-10's, it's either bargain models or Rolex grade unless you build one.

SLG's advice re: Optics is spot on.

[SecondsCount]

A lot of people are jumping into the rifle game and here is a bit of advice- if you don't reload, you should start considering it. The cost for good factory 308 ammo is $1 a round. Reloading will cut those costs in half and you can tailor the loads exactly the way you and your rifle like it.

I like a fast, flat shooting caliber with low recoil. 223/5.56 and 243/6mm based cartridges offer this. Energy is lower than a 308 or 30-06 but I can spend all day at the range or in the field shooting without my shoulder getting sore and draining my wallet. Paper and steel inside of 500 yards don't seem to care much about the energy either :cool:

The 6.5 calibers are gaining traction really fast. Tikka is chambering the CTR in 260 and Savage has 6.5 Creedmoor. Less recoil, a little bit lower in cost (especially if you reload), and do better in the wind and longer ranges. Both have plenty of energy for hunting anything in Colorado inside of 500 yards.

A good scope is a must. I have not looked at Leupold in a long time but have had success with the Vortex PST series and Nightforce. As SLG said, Nightforce is excellent and their new SHV series looks promising. My choice would be the SHV 4-14x50 F1 with the Mil-R reticle.

[SLG]

I'm not up on the latest offerings from Savage, but several friends use them very successfully. Any of the LE 110 type guns are a good start, but the others will work as well.

For what you want to do, a 308 will do the job, but as others have mentioned, a 6.5 Creedmoor will do it better. A 30-06 will be more difficult and a waste, unless you want to double the distance you intend to shoot. .243 will also work very well, with almost no recoil, but the barrel life will be pretty short.

[punkey71]

Ruger RPR in 308 or 6.5?

Reasonably priced, easily upgraded and pretty damn good from the reviews.

Just a thought.

http://youtu.be/x8VD3jP3s20


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[BES]

RPR in 6.5 is a Tac driver for the money. The .308 not so much lol, very loose shooting. Great thread on Snipers Hide about this that my snipers turned me on to. I've been looking at getting a 6.5 bolt as well just for fun. Savage is supposed to be coming out with a trick up their sleeve to compete with Ruger though.

[Nephrology]

A lot of people are jumping into the rifle game and here is a bit of advice- if you don't reload, you should start considering it. The cost for good factory 308 ammo is $1 a round. Reloading will cut those costs in half and you can tailor the loads exactly the way you and your rifle like it.

I like a fast, flat shooting caliber with low recoil. 223/5.56 and 243/6mm based cartridges offer this. Energy is lower than a 308 or 30-06 but I can spend all day at the range or in the field shooting without my shoulder getting sore and draining my wallet. Paper and steel inside of 500 yards don't seem to care much about the energy either :cool:

The 6.5 calibers are gaining traction really fast. Tikka is chambering the CTR in 260 and Savage has 6.5 Creedmoor. Less recoil, a little bit lower in cost (especially if you reload), and do better in the wind and longer ranges. Both have plenty of energy for hunting anything in Colorado inside of 500 yards.

A good scope is a must. I have not looked at Leupold in a long time but have had success with the Vortex PST series and Nightforce. As SLG said, Nightforce is excellent and their new SHV series looks promising. My choice would be the SHV 4-14x50 F1 with the Mil-R reticle.

I would definitely be interested in reloading rifle ammo for a bolt gun. That would be part of the gradual build-up. I've spent all of my gun time/money learning how to shoot 9mm glocks (with occasional + limited dalliances) specifically so I would be good with my gear.So, when I move into bolt guns or rifles in general I plan on doing it right.

[littlejerry]

Any comments on the Howa 1500? Keels coming up in my search for an entry level rifle with a DBM option.

You can also buy a barreled action direct from then and drop into whatever stock you want.

Ive been on the fence for a while about building a bolt gun. So far I've had good luck with my AR at 600 yards when shooting IMI MK262. If I did jumo into the bolt gun gameid just go 308 so I could use IMI 308 SMK ammo.

[SLG]

Any comments on the Howa 1500? Keels coming up in my search for an entry level rifle with a DBM option.

You can also buy a barreled action direct from then and drop into whatever stock you want.

Ive been on the fence for a while about building a bolt gun. So far I've had good luck with my AR at 600 yards when shooting IMI MK262. If I did jumo into the bolt gun gameid just go 308 so I could use IMI 308 SMK ammo.

The 1500 is a perfectly good gun.

When choosing these types of guns, you really need to have the end in mind, because the aftermarket, though it is much better today, is still the limiting factor on some of the non 700 guns. I would almost always tell people to get a 700, but with things today at Remington, I just don't know for sure. I have had a few $400 or less remington's over the years, and as soon as you dropped them into a proper stock or chassis, they shot incredibly well. But a $350 barreled action, dropped into a $900 chassis, may not make the most sense. Today, a Ruger Precision rifle may make the most sense for the entry level precision bolt gun.

I would stay away from older 70's and 700's, as they were not typically as accurate as the more recent stuff. Not to say you couldn't find a great one, or at least a great action to build on. I reserve the older stuff for non precision use.

[BES]

http://www.scout.com/military/snipers-hide/story/1662565-sniper-s-hide-bullet-point-ep-11-budget-rifle

[Eric_L]

http://www.scout.com/military/snipers-hide/story/1662565-sniper-s-hide-bullet-point-ep-11-budget-rifle

I looked at this and it seems like good advice. Frank historically has said things very plainly and seems to be an independent thinker, plus he has seen and shot most things.

I would seriously consider 6.5. Easy to reload, lower recoil, good bullet selection, higher BC which equates flatter trajectory and less wind drift. The Creedmore has factory ammo available from Hornady which generally is good.
I went with 6.5x47 Lapua. There is factory ammo but very expensive and limited choices. 308 is easy to reload. Also good factory choices. Increased recoil, not as flat shooting or as good in the wind, however lots of long range practical matches have been won with 308. The glass Frank recommends is not the expensive name brand: Hensoldt, Schmidt &Bender, Nightforce, but from reports Is good. I would read on snipers hide for more info on glass. PM me if you want. E

[nycnoob]

I found this European "Straight Pull" rifle. Its pretty neat but I know little about it.

Merkel RX Helix Rifle

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/c7/3a/03/c73a03f5dbe31977a2573e8df1d1536a.jpg


Two different reviews:

http://www.grandviewoutdoors.com/big-game-hunting/rifle-review-merkel-rx-helix-explorer/

http://www.outdoorlife.com/blogs/gun-shots/gun-review-merkel-rx-helix

Here is a video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXUimtJf6Gw

[BES]

I looked at this and it seems like good advice. Frank historically has said things very plainly and seems to be an independent thinker, plus he has seen and shot most things.

I would seriously consider 6.5. Easy to reload, lower recoil, good bullet selection, higher BC which equates flatter trajectory and less wind drift. The Creedmore has factory ammo available from Hornady which generally is good.
I went with 6.5x47 Lapua. There is factory ammo but very expensive and limited choices. 308 is easy to reload. Also good factory choices. Increased recoil, not as flat shooting or as good in the wind, however lots of long range practical matches have been won with 308. The glass Frank recommends is not the expensive name brand: Hensoldt, Schmidt &Bender, Nightforce, but from reports Is good. I would read on snipers hide for more info on glass. PM me if you want. E

The 6.5 stuff is getting cheaper than .308 in some places too!

[HCM]

I found this European "Straight Pull" rifle. Its pretty neat but I know little about it.

Merkel RX Helix Rifle

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/c7/3a/03/c73a03f5dbe31977a2573e8df1d1536a.jpg


Two different reviews:

http://www.grandviewoutdoors.com/big-game-hunting/rifle-review-merkel-rx-helix-explorer/

http://www.outdoorlife.com/blogs/gun-shots/gun-review-merkel-rx-helix

Here is a video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXUimtJf6Gw

Gorgeous but $$$$$ - they start at $2,995 to $ 5,485... that just the rifle

[HCM]

What about the Weatherby Vanguard 2 synthetic in 6.5 Creedmoor ?

http://www.weatherby.com/vanguard-synthetic.html

[SkiDevil]

The Weatherby Vanguard series is made by Howa in Japan and imported by Interarms. They also produced rifles for Mossberg, Smith and Wesson, and several other companies.

I own a Howa Stainless steel .308 with a stainless action. Solid rifle, accurate, and dependable. The easily correctable short falls, to include, typically plastic stocks, and rough triggers.

My thoughts are that the Howa rifles would be a good mid-grade choice in rifle that could be upgraded over time (barrels, triggers, and stocks are readily available).

For hunting and informal target shooting it is a great choice.

[mmc45414]

While there are many good choices, another angle on the Savage is that you can change a barrel with a set of wrenches and a headspace gage set. This could offer different lengths and contours, and you could experiment between 308 and 243. I do not consider this to be a swap situation, just something that would give you more latitude and IMO are great rifles anyway.

[rob_s]

I thought we had a thread here on the "practical" bolt-action concept, but my search skills seem unable to dig it up. There is an AAR here (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?5983-Randy-Cain-s-Practical-Rifle)that delves a bit into the hardware side, and of course the discussion strays that direction. As I understand it, Randy's definition of a "practical rifle" starts with the Scout concept and updates/refines/corrects it. For example, the first correction: use a conventional scope not a "scout scope".

Point being, I think there is a use case for the do-all, bolt-action, .308 lightweight and compact carbine. While you still need to define your end-use, that end-use can be a little bit more murky than some might have you think, especially starting out. I know how I define it for me, but I've been unsuccessful finding the proper starting point, due largely to my insistence that it come with factory iron sights and be <$800, preferably <$500.

to the OP, I'll say this, which is that a practical rifle should have controlled-round feed, not push-feed. In the Practical Rifle course I took there was one guy using a push-feed gun and he had feeding issues even when simply shooting on the move. The controlled round feed is often referred to as a "Mauser action" while the push-feed is notoriously a Remington thing (although I'm sure they didn't invent it). Winchester Model 70s (at least the true antiques and the "classic" line) use the controlled-round feed. If I could find a 16-18", lightweight, barreled M70 with factory iron sights for <$800 I'd be done with my bolt-action quest.

There's more here (http://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/controlled-feed-vs-push-feed-rifles/)on the differences.

Personally, I see no advantage to push-feed guns, but I'm sure someone that has a better pedigree or more of a contrarian nature than I, will be along shortly to tell me I'm wrong.

[jc000]

High price: Sako 85 Black Bear

Right now I'm very taken with the idea of buying the Sako, but it is just out of my budget.

+1 looks like an amazingly classy utilitarian rifle.

[warpedcamshaft]

Kyle Defoor (I trust his opinion on a lot of things) set up a simple, solid hunting rifle:

http://kyledefoor.tumblr.com/post/32826327608/everyman-hunting-rifle-part-1-the-action

[Alembic]

Be sure to check out the public range, located between BV and Salida. An outstanding facility with steel animal silhouettes from 300 to "the cowboy" at 1000 yard. Also a 100 yard sight-in range, two pistol ranges, one with barricades and a shotgun area. Even have long drop toilets. The place is deserted on most weekdays, if I hadn't left the state I wouldn't be sharing.

The Summit County public range only goes to 100 yards, but it's been recently upgraded, with range officers and front range crowds on weekends.

Sorry for the drift, figure the thread is 4 pages long, OP question was answered a long time ago, in post two. Tikka T3...

[TAZ]

I have had extremely good luck with Savage rifles. Far from sexy, but great bang for the buck. I've owned both the 110 (long action) and 10 (short action) series in 308. This was before the 6.5CM came to be and both rifles were tack drivers. Both were under MOA with almost any factory match ammo (Fed GMM, BH, Hornady, PPU) once I started pulling bullets and reseating to and OAL that better matched my chambers I was shooting close to 1/2 moa and I don't think I'm all that.

With that stated the RPR seems like the cats meow. If Savage comes out to compete all the better and I May get back into a bolt gun n

[coldcase1984]

You're new to CF rifles and want something light enough to carry around but capable of of precision accuracy out of the box, chambered in .308, with a good trigger that is easy to adjust lighter, and threaded for a brake or suppressor?

Whittakerguns.com has Tikka T3 Lite (6.2 Lbs) blue threaded bolt-action on sale at $577. My blue Tikka CTR .260 has the smoothest bolt I've ever run on a factory gun, shoots .5 MOA out to 360 and I suspect the Lite would be more of the same. It is the Glock 19 of bolt guns.

If you start hunting, and you should, a .308 will kill any Colo. big game with alacrity.

If you want to become really good, get a .223 version with the 8-twist barrel. It will stabilize 75 grain + bullets and its kick is near non-existent. Only problem is it's not Big Game legal in Colorado. But you would have a blast with prairie dogs, coyotes and rockchucks.

Oh, and put an SWFA Super Sniper 6X42 Mil dot scope on either .223 or .308 and make hits way out yonder; $299 and tracks better than many "name" scopes. Long-range rock busting and varmint killing on public land is the berries in Colorado.

P.S. All this is more fun with a suppressor!

[imp1295]

Purpose is fairly general.

I do want to be light and rugged enough to be a "SHTF" kind of rifle,

I want a durable, accurate, dependable rifle; I don't want to compromise on quality, like I said, I'm not in a rush.

Under these para,enters, have you considered the CZ 527 in 7.62x39, with a variable illuminated reticle?

The recent discussion where GJM talked about a good all purpose bolt gun, with good quality, and generally available ammo may foot the bill. Or, the round may not give you the distance you are looking for. Just an idea that I'm throwing around for my first bolt gun.


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[HCM]

Under these para,enters, have you considered the CZ 527 in 7.62x39, with a variable illuminated reticle?

The recent discussion where GJM talked about a good all purpose bolt gun, with good quality, and generally available ammo may foot the bill. Or, the round may not give you the distance you are looking for. Just an idea that I'm throwing around for my first bolt gun.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have a CZ 527 in 7.62x39 with a 2-7x. It's a great gun but 7.62x39 is not a very practical long distance cartridge. Ballistics are similar to a 30-30 or .300 Blackout so it is essentially a 300 yard cartridge.

[rob_s]

You're new to CF rifles and want something light enough to carry around but capable of of precision accuracy out of the box, chambered in .308, with a good trigger that is easy to adjust lighter, and threaded for a brake or suppressor?

Whittakerguns.com has Tikka T3 Lite (6.2 Lbs) blue threaded bolt-action on sale at $577. My blue Tikka CTR .260 has the smoothest bolt I've ever run on a factory gun, shoots .5 MOA out to 360 and I suspect the Lite would be more of the same. It is the Glock 19 of bolt guns.

I wish that gun had a more open-top ejection port. Having taken Cain's Practical Rifle course, I like the concept of topping up the gun from the ejection port, and that tiny port just wouldn't leave room for that.

[nycnoob]

This years Tikka model opened up the ejection port.

http://www.tikka.fi/rifles/tikka-t3x

Ofcourse I bought one last fall and have the older model.

[SecondsCount]

I wish that gun had a more open-top ejection port. Having taken Cain's Practical Rifle course, I like the concept of topping up the gun from the ejection port, and that tiny port just wouldn't leave room for that.

The Tikka is magazine fed like an AR. If you need to top it off, just swap the mag :cool:

[rob_s]

The Tikka is magazine fed like an AR. If you need to top it off, just swap the mag :cool:

One has nothing to do with the other.

[SteveB]

You're new to CF rifles and want something light enough to carry around but capable of of precision accuracy out of the box, chambered in .308, with a good trigger that is easy to adjust lighter, and threaded for a brake or suppressor?

Whittakerguns.com has Tikka T3 Lite (6.2 Lbs) blue threaded bolt-action on sale at $577. My blue Tikka CTR .260 has the smoothest bolt I've ever run on a factory gun, shoots .5 MOA out to 360 and I suspect the Lite would be more of the same. It is the Glock 19 of bolt guns.


Tikka actions are standard-length actions, even in short-action calibers, and they are push feed. For a bolt rifle, I'd like as short a bolt throw as possible (for a given cartridge length) and controlled-round feed.