Anyone feel like a gun lube war?

[LittleLebowski]

JUST KIDDING for those that have gun forum PTSD (real thing) and barrel in here to talk endlessly about "snake oil" and the price of Mobil One.

I get the Mobil One thing, I do. Got it on cost, yup. Everything else is snake oil, understood. I'm a chump for not buying automotive oil for my guns, I know.

Anyway, I like convenience and having an aerosol spray can of good synthetic gun oil for $10 is convenient and meets my needs. This shit works well. Royal Purple synthetic gun oil, aerosol for $10 on Amazon Prime (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FUNZF2/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000FUNZF2&linkCode=as2&tag=ratio07-20&linkId=YMSYZ2TL76HRHRWA).

[Luke]

I've used almost a whole can of the royal purple. Sales rep gave me a can a few years ago. Not really impressed. Right now I feel like there is nothing better out there than Lucas extreme duty. Ymmv.

[LittleLebowski]

I love the Lucas stuff but...convenience.

[Luke]

Mine comes to a mailbox too? I also have a needle applicator and can place it exactly where I want it. Everyone is different and you will get all kinds of answers.

[Peally]

I'll have a lube war with you any day of the week :o

[Jeep]

I love the Lucas stuff but...convenience.

Convenience I get. Otherwise it is hard for me to imagine that it makes much difference what oil or grease you use on a gun so long as it won't either harm it or burn off too quickly because it is too light. It's not a car engine going 2,000 rpm at high temps and pressures for hours on end.

The important thing is to lube the correct moving parts often enough to keep the thing functioning and pretty much any medium weight lube should work.

[Chris Rhines]

I'm pretty agnostic when it comes to lube, but I don't think hosing down my guns with a spray can is a good idea. At a minimum, it's wasteful.

Also, with aerosol cans I always feel like I'm running out of propellent way before I run out of product.

[ffhounddog]

I thought he always wanted his guns to use this:

7188

[LittleLebowski]

I'll have a lube war with you any day of the week :o

Are we still not doing the phrasing thing?

[LittleLebowski]

I'm pretty agnostic when it comes to lube, but I don't think hosing down my guns with a spray can is a good idea. At a minimum, it's wasteful.

Also, with aerosol cans I always feel like I'm running out of propellent way before I run out of product.

It's not difficult to use on the parts you want.

[LittleLebowski]

Convenience I get. Otherwise it is hard for me to imagine that it makes much difference what oil or grease you use on a gun so long as it won't either harm it or burn off too quickly because it is too light. It's not a car engine going 2,000 rpm at high temps and pressures for hours on end.

The important thing is to lube the correct moving parts often enough to keep the thing functioning and pretty much any medium weight lube should work.

I was not unaware of these facts :D

[gtmtnbiker98]

I've recently switched to Lucas Extreme. Jury is still out whether or not it's worth the hype.

[SecondsCount]

I like Super Lube (http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI) grease for almost everything and it is half the price of an aerosol ;)

It is almost like a gel and it does a good job of staying in place. Oils tend to weep out and get on my clothes so I stopped using them a while ago.

I keep a bottle of Froglube in my gun bag to use as a general purpose CLP and because it is non-toxic. The stuff is ridiculously expensive and it doesn't do anything great but for getting a gunked up gun running when it's down, it works well.

[LittleLebowski]

I've recently switched to Lucas Extreme. Jury is still out whether or not it's worth the hype.

I think it's worth the hype and it's cheap, $4 per 2 ounces (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IG20RM/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000IG20RM&linkCode=as2&tag=ratio07-20&linkId=L2C3C7FC4PFTIWNI) as compared to $17 for two ounces of Fireclean.

[JRCHolsters]

My daughter was sponsored by Liberty Gun Lubricants and I have to say that overall we have been pretty happy with the performance of the oil and solvent, but I felt it was an expensive expendable item. Even though it was being supplied to us, we still used it sparingly. Opportunity knocked and I suddenly found myself in the midst of buying the gun lube company. The first thing I am doing once it is officially in my hands is lowering the pricing substantially via bulk. Just my personal opinion, but I don't care how great an oil or solvent is, I don't want to spend a ton on an expendable product.

[Clay]

For convenience, it's hard to beat Rem-Oil and Break-Free. Available at most Wal-Mart stores for a reasonable price. A lot of Academy stores carry Corrosion-X, which is awesome. Super Lube spray and grease is excellent also, and has a ton of uses - it's clear and doesn't stain stuff, and doesn't stink. I use the grease on flashlight o-rings and threads. I know you can get the Super Lube grease at Harbor Freight.

Having said all that, I bought a tube of Lucas Marine grease and Valvoline Synthetic 20w-50 and repackaged it all into small containers for future use. I'm done spending money on that expensive stuff.

[Savage Hands]

I've used Weapon Shield since about 2007 or 2008 when George sent out the free samples, I've pretty much used it exclusively ever since and gave away my other wonderlubes.

Please don't sue me....

[SecondsCount]

My daughter was sponsored by Liberty Gun Lubricants and I have to say that overall we have been pretty happy with the performance of the oil and solvent, but I felt it was an expensive expendable item. Even though it was being supplied to us, we still used it sparingly. Opportunity knocked and I suddenly found myself in the midst of buying the gun lube company. The first thing I am doing once it is officially in my hands is lowering the pricing substantially via bulk. Just my personal opinion, but I don't care how great an oil or solvent is, I don't want to spend a ton on an expendable product.

I think what you find with a lot of these small lube companies is that they don't have the capital, nor the sales numbers, to go out and purchase the automated equipment to manufacture the product, or fill the containers. They end up having a contractor do it which causes the large uptick in pricing. It is also hard to make money on a $3 bottle of lube when you have to ship one at a time.

Companies like Lucas, Synco, Mobil, etc. have the equipment because they sell to all kinds of industries and have a huge customer base. They typically have some solid scientists doing R&D on their products which makes them more attractive to me.

[Clay]

Weaponshield is excellent, and George is a great guy. It's one of the few "gun" products that isn't just repackaged oil from the automotive or health care industry.

[VolGrad]

I have a bunch of different lubes in my gun cabinet. Some I love, some I just think are so-so. Doesn't matter though as they are expendable items. I check my weapons periodically and if they need lube I add it. If I am going on an extended range/training session I might add lube up front as a preventative measure. Not really a big deal in my opinion. I personally think people spend waaaay to much time talking about the merits or shortcomings of this or that lube. To me it means they probably don't have much else going on in their world if this is the worst issue they have.

[Default.mp3]

I'm curious, how often are y'all buying lube? I used a free sample of Militec that was given to be during a Vickers class for a couple of years, then bought a 4 oz. bottle of Slip2000 EWL back in January of 2012, and two 2 oz. bottles of FIREClean back in March of 2014. I threw away the mostly-full bottle of Militec, the Slip2000 EWL is still two-thirds full, and I still got about a bottle and a quarter of FIREClean. During that time, I've shot something like 23k pistol rounds and 2.8k rifle rounds (most of the rifle being suppressed). I don't really buy into the whole überlube hype, but I never really got the whole complaining about lube price, since in my limited experience, even a small bottle can be used for so long. Using motor oil instead of expensive, "custom formulated" gun lube would have saved me like 5 USD a year.

[PPGMD]

I'm pretty agnostic when it comes to lube, but I don't think hosing down my guns with a spray can is a good idea. At a minimum, it's wasteful.

Also, with aerosol cans I always feel like I'm running out of propellent way before I run out of product.

To add on to this, I stopped using aerosol because it makes a mess. Due to lack of basements and garages in Florida homes, my gun room is typically in the house. So using aerosol will ruin the flooring in many cases.


I think it's worth the hype and it's cheap, $4 per 2 ounces (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IG20RM/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000IG20RM&linkCode=as2&tag=ratio07-20&linkId=L2C3C7FC4PFTIWNI) as compared to $17 for two ounces of Fireclean.

The price is a little better on the Extreme Duty Oil since it comes in larger containers, 8oz for $15, so a little under $2 an oz.

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/oils-lubricants/lubricant-protectant-oils/extreme-duty-gun-oil-prod71172.aspx

[Chris Rhines]

Buying lube? Huh? My 'free lube' bin is almost as big as my 'holster experiment' box.

[VolGrad]

I'm curious, how often are y'all buying lube?
I bought a few different ones to try back around 2010 when I was taking a lot of classes. That's the last time I bought lube.

Buying lube? Huh? My 'free lube' bin is almost as big as my 'holster experiment' box.
This. I have small free samples stowed in range bags and boxes all over the place.

[Peally]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SSbFjK_gnY

[Gray222]

CLP seal (http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=aps&keywords=CLP%20seal) or go home

[JRCHolsters]

I think what you find with a lot of these small lube companies is that they don't have the capital, nor the sales numbers, to go out and purchase the automated equipment to manufacture the product, or fill the containers. They end up having a contractor do it which causes the large uptick in pricing. It is also hard to make money on a $3 bottle of lube when you have to ship one at a time.

Companies like Lucas, Synco, Mobil, etc. have the equipment because they sell to all kinds of industries and have a huge customer base. They typically have some solid scientists doing R&D on their products which makes them more attractive to me.
I agree 100%. In this particular case, there is solid science in the product, though I think the owners misunderstand how it actually works. I think from a marketing point of view, the wrong path was taken, which is why I am taking it in a completely different direction.

[Irelander]

Does the Royal Purple attract dust? I guess its not a big deal if it doesn't but I appreciate lube that does not attract dist.

I use FireClean but it attracts dust like crazy.

I've come to really like the Sentry Solutions Tuf-Glide but it is pricey.

[Luke]

How many have y'all tried?

My list:

Royal purple, hopes, slip 200, slip 200 EWL, mpro7, rem oil, break free, balistol, and like 4 more I can't remember the names but can picture the bottle. Lucas hands down the best :)

[LOKNLOD]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SSbFjK_gnY

If they really blew up an early Bronco, it's an even greater crime against humanity than making the sequel.

[11B10]

OK, here we go - has anyone here EVER used G96? I had never seen it advertised - I bought it at Bass Pro's on the advice of a veteran hunter friend of mine and was blown away. It seems I never saw it advertised because, as I discovered from a very well-known Editor of a gun mag (who asked not to be quoted), G96 is not very popular among them as they resist input and suggestions (apparently CS is not their strong suit). HOWEVER, I have been using this for almost two years and can't find anything but positives. When I bought a Sig in November, they sent me some Lucas lube, which I am now using for lube, but still cleaning with the G96.

Anyone?

[Nephrology]

I bought a bottle of Slip2000 and and a can of Safariland CLP when I moved to CO. I don't anticipate running out of it any time soon.

Honestly I don't really get the big deal. It's such a minor consumable in the big scheme of gun ownership (as noted above). They all seem to basically work just fine. then again, I also mostly shoot Glocks, so.... something of a perspective bias here.

[Peally]

I bought a bottle of Slip2000 and and a can of Safariland CLP when I moved to CO. I don't anticipate running out of it any time soon.

Honestly I don't really get the big deal. It's such a minor consumable in the big scheme of gun ownership (as noted above). They all seem to basically work just fine. then again, I also mostly shoot Glocks, so.... something of a perspective bias here.

You're crazy. CRAZY.

I just buy the same crap you do off the shelf at Fleet Farm and go home and practice, watch TV, play video games, etc. You know, more interesting stuff :D

[RJ]

Rich's Obligatory Lubricant Market Survey ,from the last run up and down this staircase: :cool:


Slide Glide Lite, tube, 0.25 oz. $26.00 / oz

Fireclean 2 oz. $9.97 / oz

Slipstream Weapon Lubricant 2 oz. (est) $7.50 / oz.

Rand CLP Nano 2 oz. bottle $6.57 / oz

Wilson Ultima Lube Universal 2 oz. bottle $5.97 / oz

Militec-1 4oz Lubricant $5.73 / oz

M-Pro Gun oil LPX 2 oz. bottle $4.99 / oz

Inox MX3 100 g (3.5 oz) small $4.28 / oz

Froglube 4 oz. bottle $3.93 / oz

Weapon Shield WS-4 4 oz. bottle $3.73 / oz

Slip EWL 4 oz. $3.24 / oz

Gunzilla 4oz twist top $2.99 / oz

Royal Purple 02514 Synfilm High Performance Synthetic Air Compressor Lubricant 2 oz. $2.87 / oz.

Breakfree CLP 4 oz. $2.82 / oz

Lucas Oil 10006 Gun Oil 2 oz. $2.57 / oz

Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubrication 4 oz. $2.50 / oz

Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil Aerosol 6 oz. $1.96 / oz

Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil 16 oz. $1.87 / oz. (Brownell's, plus shipping)

Hoppe's No. 9 Lubricating oil, 2 1/4 oz. $1.55 / oz

Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant Drip-Bottle, 6 oz. $1.50 / oz

Rem oil Gun Lubricant Aerosol Can 10 oz. $1.16 / oz

3 in One PTFE Lubricant, 4 oz, Lowe's $0.99 / oz

WD-40 Multi-use Spray 16 oz. $0.87 / oz

Mineral Oil USP Vi-Jon 16 oz. $0.51 / oz

Mobil 1 10w-40 32 oz. $0.50 / oz

Home Depot Husky Air Compressor Oil, 16 oz bottle $0.16 / oz

Canola oil, Crisco pure, 48 oz. $0.06 / oz

Distilled Water, Deer Park, 6 x 1 gallon $0.03 / oz

PS I use Slip 2000 EWL, it seems to work as well as anything. :)

[warpedcamshaft]

I only use a proprietary blend of at least three "natural, non-petroleum, non-synthetic oils derived from a plant, vegetable, or fruit or shrub or flower or tree nut or any combination of natural, non-petroleum, non-synthetic oils derived from a plant, vegetable, or fruit or shrub or flower or tree nut where each oil has a smoke point above 200 degrees Fahrenheit."

I prefer that the total volume of the at least three oils is at least 25% of the total volume of the oil composition... but that's just me.

[gtmtnbiker98]

I only use a proprietary blend of at least three "natural, non-petroleum, non-synthetic oils derived from a plant, vegetable, or fruit or shrub or flower or tree nut or any combination of natural, non-petroleum, non-synthetic oils derived from a plant, vegetable, or fruit or shrub or flower or tree nut where each oil has a smoke point above 200 degrees Fahrenheit."

I prefer that the total volume of the at least three oils is at least 25% of the total volume of the oil composition... but that's just me.…and only verified by third party electro spectrograph analysis.

[Peally]

Oh my Jesus this is just canola oil!





Perfect!

[Gray222]

CLP seal (http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=aps&keywords=CLP%20seal) or go home

Since it was asked.

I have fireclean, CLP and slip bug after they run out I'll only use seal CLP.

[HopetonBrown]

Rich's Obligatory Lubricant Market Survey ,from the last run up and down this staircase: :cool:


Slide Glide Lite, tube, 0.25 oz. $26.00 / oz

Fireclean 2 oz. $9.97 / oz

Slipstream Weapon Lubricant 2 oz. (est) $7.50 / oz.

Rand CLP Nano 2 oz. bottle $6.57 / oz

Wilson Ultima Lube Universal 2 oz. bottle $5.97 / oz

Militec-1 4oz Lubricant $5.73 / oz

M-Pro Gun oil LPX 2 oz. bottle $4.99 / oz

Inox MX3 100 g (3.5 oz) small $4.28 / oz

Froglube 4 oz. bottle $3.93 / oz

Weapon Shield WS-4 4 oz. bottle $3.73 / oz

Slip EWL 4 oz. $3.24 / oz

Gunzilla 4oz twist top $2.99 / oz

Royal Purple 02514 Synfilm High Performance Synthetic Air Compressor Lubricant 2 oz. $2.87 / oz.

Breakfree CLP 4 oz. $2.82 / oz

Lucas Oil 10006 Gun Oil 2 oz. $2.57 / oz

Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubrication 4 oz. $2.50 / oz

Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil Aerosol 6 oz. $1.96 / oz

Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil 16 oz. $1.87 / oz. (Brownell's, plus shipping)

Hoppe's No. 9 Lubricating oil, 2 1/4 oz. $1.55 / oz

Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant Drip-Bottle, 6 oz. $1.50 / oz

Rem oil Gun Lubricant Aerosol Can 10 oz. $1.16 / oz

3 in One PTFE Lubricant, 4 oz, Lowe's $0.99 / oz

WD-40 Multi-use Spray 16 oz. $0.87 / oz

Mineral Oil USP Vi-Jon 16 oz. $0.51 / oz

Mobil 1 10w-40 32 oz. $0.50 / oz

Home Depot Husky Air Compressor Oil, 16 oz bottle $0.16 / oz

Canola oil, Crisco pure, 48 oz. $0.06 / oz

Distilled Water, Deer Park, 6 x 1 gallon $0.03 / oz

PS I use Slip 2000 EWL, it seems to work as well as anything. :)

I think it'd be more fair if you did the prices of the largest bottle the company sells it in (without getting crazy, like a gallon or a drum), because the cost per ounce can go down dramatically. It's the fault of the company if they don't sell 8 or 16 Oz bottles.

[PPGMD]

I only use a proprietary blend of at least three "natural, non-petroleum, non-synthetic oils derived from a plant, vegetable, or fruit or shrub or flower or tree nut or any combination of natural, non-petroleum, non-synthetic oils derived from a plant, vegetable, or fruit or shrub or flower or tree nut where each oil has a smoke point above 200 degrees Fahrenheit."

I prefer that the total volume of the at least three oils is at least 25% of the total volume of the oil composition... but that's just me.

Yeah that patent drives me nuts. They don't list the formula, and the idea of mixing oils to get a desired result is hardly novel, so what are they patenting?

[Hambo]

I'm curious, how often are y'all buying lube?

Buy? BUY? You mean people actually pay money for gun oil? My preferred gun lube comes in sample size containers from the dude trying to sell the shit. Failing that, there's always, "Hey, bro, toss me that bottle of gun oil..." If both of those fail, just reach under somebody's Raptor and catch whatever is leaking.

Seriously, the bottom four spots on my gun expenditure list are:
Gun oil
Gun cleaner
Brass cleaner
Case lube

[Nephrology]

You're crazy. CRAZY.

I just buy the same crap you do off the shelf at Fleet Farm and go home and practice, watch TV, play video games, etc. You know, more interesting stuff :D

I used to live in MN and miss the hell out of Fleet Farm. I am pretty sure if I died and went to heaven it would be a Fleet Farm with an indoor range and a Hooters attached.

[Clay]

OK, here we go - has anyone here EVER used G96? I had never seen it advertised - I bought it at Bass Pro's on the advice of a veteran hunter friend of mine and was blown away. It seems I never saw it advertised because, as I discovered from a very well-known Editor of a gun mag (who asked not to be quoted), G96 is not very popular among them as they resist input and suggestions (apparently CS is not their strong suit). HOWEVER, I have been using this for almost two years and can't find anything but positives. When I bought a Sig in November, they sent me some Lucas lube, which I am now using for lube, but still cleaning with the G96.

Anyone?

I've used G96 Gun Treatment quite a bit, as well as their cold blue and military synthetic CLP. Great products, and the G96 Gun Treatment has been around since at least the late 1960's. It's probably my favorite gun care product, albeit expensive, which is why I don't use it anymore. My wife even likes the smell. Their synthetic CLP is the only current U.S. military issued CLP that the general public can buy. I've spoke with the owner a couple of times, and he is a cranky bastard, but knows his stuff.

[Trooper224]

The only time I really cared about what kind of lube was on my gun was when I was working in servitude to Uncle Sugar and operating in Arctic conditions. (Did I just use the O word? Shit.) After having an M14 seize up as if it were welded shut due to the extreme cold, I paid more attention. Other than that, it's all just grease or oil. I use Plastilube as a grease only because I have a life time supply of the stuff from my rifle competition days. When oil is needed it's whatever happens to be handy. It ain't quantum physics folks.

[11B10]

I've used G96 Gun Treatment quite a bit, as well as their cold blue and military synthetic CLP. Great products, and the G96 Gun Treatment has been around since at least the late 1960's. It's probably my favorite gun care product, albeit expensive, which is why I don't use it anymore. My wife even likes the smell. Their synthetic CLP is the only current U.S. military issued CLP that the general public can buy. I've spoke with the owner a couple of times, and he is a cranky bastard, but knows his stuff.



The one thing I didnt expect to hear about G96 is that it's expensive. I bought a large can at probably THE most expensive retailer around here (Bass Pro) and it was $14.99. That was over a year ago and it seems to me it's going to last quite a while.

[Clay]

Cost is certainly subjective. Compared to a can of Rem-Oil at $6.77, it's twice as expensive and certainly not twice as effective.

Sent from my XT830C using Tapatalk

[Lon]

For gun lube I typically use TW25B for my pistols. I also have a quart of Mobil1 synthetic oil I've used occasionally. For my AK and AR I use that red stinky wheel bearing grease that comes in a peanut can from the automotive section of Walmart*.

*I first tried it in a Tactical Response Fighting Rifle class in '08. Works great and I'm still on the same can I bought back then.

[23JAZ]

It's not difficult to use on the parts you want.
No phrasing? Really!?

[Clobbersaurus]

I recently put my 92D Centurion through the 2000 round challenge and was impressed with the lube I chose. Excerpts from the 92D thread below:





For this pistol I packed it with Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2 grease. After some research I decided to pick up a tube, which if it works, will be a lifetime supply. I wanted a lube that stays put and won't run out of the gun, which is a problem for Beretta's and the 2000 round challenge. I dry fire so much that the gun is often bone dry by the end of the challenge. We'll see how this stuff works.

http://i.imgur.com/CkwpVC0l.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/0KqycmBl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fkTusfnl.jpg

This is how the gun looked at the start of the challenge.
http://i.imgur.com/g0m0dk9l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OO2NJqll.jpg


I got my Centurion D past 2000 rounds today.

Total round count for the test: 2014
11 stoppages (2 failures to feed due to a dirty mag and 9 failures of the slide to lock back due to improper grip).

I had no other problems today and the mags all worked fine. The three older mags I have all work perfectly now that they are re-sprung with Wolff extra power springs. They are MUCH harder to load now than the Mec Gars. I will likely re-spring all my mags at the end of this IPSC season.

I took a bunch of the obligatory filthy pics, but what impressed me the most is the performance of the Lucas Red "N" Tacky # 2 lube. I have run three Beretta's through the 2000 round challenge now and my Elite II and Girsan were bone dry after about 1000 rounds. I dry fire a LOT, and all three guns were dry fired virtually daily, so the guns get a lot of manipulations as well as their rounds down range.

Below are pics of the locking block on my Elite II and Girsan after their respective 2000 round challenges (Girsan only had about 1250 rounds or so before lack of lube completely choked it):

Girsan:
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r151/clobbersauras/DSC03827_zpsqhhtkgrr.jpg (http://s143.photobucket.com/user/clobbersauras/media/DSC03827_zpsqhhtkgrr.jpg.html)

Beretta Elite II:
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r151/clobbersauras/DSC03702_zps88e1454e.jpg (http://s143.photobucket.com/user/clobbersauras/media/DSC03702_zps88e1454e.jpg.html)

Pics of the Centurion D with the Lucas Red "N" Tacky lube. Note how much lube is still on the rails and locking block after over 2000 rounds and almost daily dry fire:
http://i.imgur.com/4lC5wabl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JlSZzF7l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sOmgNM5l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/WqAbxmal.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tFFqbEFl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/2FKnbSAl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/TiBuvXwl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/eVUNqZRl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CEmnQ3Zl.jpg

I can't say enough good things about the Lucas product. I am using it in my Elite II as well and I have to say it has much superior longevity than any other lube I've tried. It doesn't gum up in cold weather, it doesn't spit out of the gun, rain doesn't seem to bother it and most importantly it's cheap and easy to find. My Centurion is now soaking in solvent. I will give it a good cleaning and then try it out at my club match next weekend.

I've come to really love my Centurion D. I plan to write a more thorough piece on it after my match next weekend.

[BehindBlueI's]

Oil = CLP
Grease = TW25B

I fear change.

[MGW]

I didn't know anyone actually used Rem Oil.

[BWT]

I use Hoppes #9 Gun Oil in an aerosol can for everything (I know... for shame) basically because I'm lazy and I can find it for affordable prices in just about every gun store. Glocks, 1911's, Shotguns, AR-15's, AK-47's.

I know... I had some Slip 2000 but I lubricated a gun, left it in a safe for a match later on in the month once; came back and the gun was bone dry. After I finished the Slip 2000; I never bought more because of that. The lubricant worked just great but just didn't either stay put or evaporated if I left the gun stored for any length of time.

I was gifted some Lucas Gun Oil for Christmas, but I have no idea where it is.

I feel like such a poser.

God Bless,

Brandon

No malfunctions to speak of in any of those platforms (over about 3-4 years) beside one FTE in a Midlength AR with an A5H2, but I believe that was the heavier buffer, rifle spring, and midlength gas system not anything attributable to lubricant.

[Lon]

I didn't know anyone actually used Rem Oil.

I used it years ago during the winter on my SV2011. Nice and thin for the cold weather.

[orionz06]

Remoil has always failed at the biggest thing a lube needs to do... Be there. Always burned off or evaporated very quickly.


Sent from my Nokia 3310 using an owl

[RevolverRob]

Gun lube? I literally own three cans of lubricant -

A can of penetrating oil
A can of WD40
A can of silicone spray

I oil my guns with silicone spray and I have for about 20 years now....I guess I could find something else, but I'm not sure why I would.

[BaiHu]

What's lube and why do you put it on your gun? I regularly run the 2000 challenge every few months. I clean when I feel really guilty and I wet the gun a bit with some Otis that's seemingly been in my go bag for 5 years. It's not like I'm running an Uzi 9mm, Sully.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[gkieser92]

Oil = CLP
Grease = TW25B

I fear change.

Yup. And Hoppes #9 to clean. I actually like the smell.

[AMC]

............Thank god. I thought you guys were stripping down to eyepro and skivvies with cans of break free.

[Drang]

............Thank god. I thought you guys were stripping down to eyepro and skivvies with cans of break free.

Super Soakers at 10 paces.

[SJC3081]

Any one who doesn't use Mobil 1 0w20,should have their home infested with Wasp nests and may their new chainsaw grenade.

[LittleLebowski]

CLP seal (http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=as_li_qf_sp_sr_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&index=aps&keywords=CLP%20seal) or go home

Not unless it's made out of real baby seals.

[LittleLebowski]

I didn't know anyone actually used Rem Oil.

Too light for me. As others have noted, good for cold weather use.

[LittleLebowski]

............Thank god. I thought you guys were stripping down to eyepro and skivvies with cans of break free.

Breakfree is something I cannot stand after two lovely cruises to sandy places. We were made to clean weapons in our berthing area where we slept. The smell really gets to me.

[ACP230]

I won a lot of samples of FP10 at the old Second Chance Bowling Pin Shoot. (Playing trivia. Always my best event, unfortunately.)
When those ran out I started buying it. Have a big bottle that I've used for several years.
It works for cleaning and as a lube.

Never heard of some of the other stuff in this thread.

[LittleLebowski]

I really did post the OP as a heads up on what I believe is a good product but since this evolved into a general lube discussion (not that there's anything wrong with that!), I added a poll. For what it's worth, I voted NOPE and "Mods here are shit." Poll votes are anonymous so have fun :D

[Rich@CCC]

Berzerker Blue

I win!

To quote one of our SMEs "The best lube is the free stuff".

Non chlorinated brake cleaner from Auto Zone at $3.00 a can +/- for cleaning and I still love EezOx for initial treatment. I use Tri Flow synthetic where I need grease and Berzerker Blue where I need a less viscous oil.

[Luke]

I used to be a die hard brake cleaner for guns guy till I got one that has some fairy unicorn coating on it and I'm scared to use it. Switched to really hot water to rinse after cleaning with Lucas extreme duty solvent (that smells like grape BTW..) and it works awesome. No more brake cleaner for me!

[Robinson]

I've been using Slip 2000 and I reckon it works okay.

[Nephrology]

At the risk of triggering LL's PTSD... what is the deal with non-Cl brake cleaner + polymer frames?

[11B10]

I didn't know anyone actually used Rem Oil.




Me neither...

[PPGMD]

I really did post the OP as a heads up on what I believe is a good product but since this evolved into a general lube discussion (not that there's anything wrong with that!), I added a poll. For what it's worth, I voted NOPE and "Mods here are shit." Poll votes are anonymous so have fun :D

I voted for all 4 because 'Murica.

[LSP972]

At the risk of triggering LL's PTSD... what is the deal with non-Cl brake cleaner + polymer frames?

NON-chlorinated brake cleaner does just fine on combat Tupperware. I've been using it for years on Glock, HK, and Walther P22 frames. Metal slides, too, when I was too lazy to detail-strip. It obviates the need for a detail strip, unless your piece has been submerged in gumbo mud. Of course, once you have spritzed/sprayed all the gunk away, you have also removed EVERY trace of lubricant. A needle oiler is ideal for re-lubing your pins/rotating parts.

DO NOT use chlorinated brake cleaner, or carburetor cleaner. Both will discolor your polymer frame, and eat any true plastic pieces/parts.

.

[LittleLebowski]

NON-chlorinated brake cleaner does just fine on combat Tupperware. I've been using it for years on Glock, HK, and Walther P22 frames. Metal slides, too, when I was too lazy to detail-strip. It obviates the need for a detail strip, unless your piece has been submerged in gumbo mud. Of course, once you have spritzed/sprayed all the gunk away, you have also removed EVERY trace of lubricant. A needle oiler is ideal for re-lubing your pins/rotating parts.

DO NOT use chlorinated brake cleaner, or carburetor cleaner. Both will discolor your polymer frame, and eat any true plastic pieces/parts.



PTSD adverted because LSP972 speak'em truth.

[ReverendMeat]

BreakFree CLP, one small bottle and one aerosol can. I like it 'cause the smell brings back memories, opposite of LL. Mostly kind of shitty memories but at least then I was doing something interesting in my life, which is no longer the case. Works great on squeaky door hinges (for real. quick spray when I moved in to my last place and it was squeak free until I moved out five years later).

I've also used Fireclean when it was available to me for free. Not a fan, would not use again.

Thought about doing the motor oil thing until I realized that I spend maybe ten bucks a year on CLP. Worth it for the packaging convenience. Might try some of Clobbersaurus' red n tacky stuff, never used a grease before, seems like it'd make life with Berettas and SIGs a bit easier.

[Failure2Stop]

Berserker Blue is the only answer.
Ashton keeps insisting that it isn't *totally* non-toxic, but it reallys adds a nice kick to Monster.

[orionz06]

Berserker Blue is the only answer.
Ashton keeps insisting that it isn't *totally* non-toxic, but it reallys adds a nice kick to Monster.

They're not ready to slide with the Viking.

[Tamara]

I use whatever they were handing out for free at the last class, match, or press event. It works great, and I highly recommend it!

[LittleLebowski]

So, where are the compelling arguments for metal having pores that absorb lube?

[LittleLebowski]

I use whatever they were handing out for free at the last class, match, or press event. It works great, and I highly recommend it!

Detestable schill.

[Luke]

So, where are the compelling arguments for metal having pores that absorb lube?

Changed my mind lol

[LSP552]

Rand CLP lately but I'm not that picky.

[warpedcamshaft]

I use hopes #9 extensively...

as an aftershave, cologne, and personal lubricant.

[Clay]

So, where are the compelling arguments for metal having pores that absorb lube?

Metal has asperities (rough spots), but not pores. Somewhat similar, and probably why people argue over it. Semantics and all...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asperity_(materials_science)

Oil will adhere to these rough spots, but not "soak into pores". I think some lube sellers tried to dumb down a pretty simple subject and ended up making themselves look pretty dumb instead. And of course a few flat out lie to the public, and are full of shit.

[CS Tactical]

All of the above!

[Clay]

I didn't know anyone actually used Rem Oil.

Rem-Oil is the same product as Dupont TFL-50 (DuPONT FORMULA VZ704). It was first sold as Dupont Slipspray, and was used by Bell Helicopter as a lubricant meeting MIL-L-60326 (PTFE lube that won't harm ammunition). The mineral spirits carrier that makes Rem-Oil a great cleaner will evaporate and leave a thin film of Teflon. If you like a thick heavy oil, it's not for you, but just because you can't see it dripping out of the gun doesn't mean it "burned off" or the lubricant itself evaporated.

I've used Rem-Oil a lot for a couple of decades, and it is probably the best gun care product for 99% of the general public. Safe for wood and plastic, and almost impossible to overuse since the carrier solvent evaporates. Cleans very well, and negates the use of a harsh(er) solvent, except where copper is concerned. It won't damage ammo, unless you really soak the cartridges in it. Protects guns from corrosion reasonably well. Low odor, and doesn't go rancid like your cool guy bio-lubes. It works fine for your average 300-500 round class in my experience. I "fix" malfunctioning guns with it every week. People are always surprised that it didn't take a uberfancy Navy SEAL lube to get their gat to run.

Most of the people that don't like it are either A. parroting what they've read and have never really used it, or B. just plain like a heaver product like Slip 2000 EWL or grease, because it makes them feel better.

Some people like to run down WD-40, and I know a lot of guys that have used that stuff for 40 years without any drama. They never felt the need to run out and buy a $20 tub of Froglube. Silly guys. One of the largest privately owned gun collections in the U.S. is protected by WD-40, btw. The curator looked at me funny when I asked him if it "hardened up and turned to varnish".

I'd bet money we would all get by just fine with Rem-Oil, or 3-in-One Oil and WD-40 for that matter, if we had to. Just my opinion, of course. YMMV and all that.

[orionz06]

Rem-Oil is the same product as Dupont TFL-50 (DuPONT FORMULA VZ704). It was first sold as Dupont Slipspray, and was used by Bell Helicopter as a lubricant meeting MIL-L-60326 (PTFE lube that won't harm ammunition). The mineral spirits carrier that makes Rem-Oil a great cleaner will evaporate and leave a thin film of Teflon. If you like a thick heavy oil, it's not for you, but just because you can't see it dripping out of the gun doesn't mean it "burned off" or the lubricant itself evaporated.

I've used Rem-Oil a lot for a couple of decades, and it is probably the best gun care product for 99% of the general public. Safe for wood and plastic, and almost impossible to overuse since the carrier solvent evaporates. Cleans very well, and negates the use of a harsh(er) solvent, except where copper is concerned. It won't damage ammo, unless you really soak the cartridges in it. Protects guns from corrosion reasonably well. Low odor, and doesn't go rancid like your cool guy bio-lubes. It works fine for your average 300-500 round class in my experience. I "fix" malfunctioning guns with it every week. People are always surprised that it didn't take a uberfancy Navy SEAL lube to get their gat to run.

Most of the people that don't like it are either A. parroting what they've read and have never really used it, or B. just plain like a heaver product like Slip 2000 EWL or grease, because it makes them feel better.

Some people like to run down WD-40, and I know a lot of guys that have used that stuff for 40 years without any drama. They never felt the need to run out and buy a $20 tub of Froglube. Silly guys. One of the largest privately owned gun collections in the U.S. is protected by WD-40, btw. The curator looked at me funny when I asked him if it "hardened up and turned to varnish".

I'd bet money we would all get by just fine with Rem-Oil, or 3-in-One Oil and WD-40 for that matter, if we had to. Just my opinion, of course. YMMV and all that.

C: Had AR's cease to cycle while attempting multiple methods of application.
D: Had AR's cease to cycle while using it in cold weather.
E: Had multiple 22's cease to cycle while using it.

Every instance was resolved with a different lube that remained present.

I'm also not 100% certain that all instances of Remoil are the evaporate to teflon type. I do have a "new" bottle of that in the shop that replaced an old bottle for shits and giggles as the teflon intrigued me. FWIW the new bottle sucked as much ass as the old did though I didn't waste as much time with it. It was more so just to say I actually did use it and it actually was shit rather than parroting or speculating.

3-in-one would likely work for most people though I do like what I use, it's held up well to pointless and excessive round counts.

[Clay]

Wow. I'd say Rem-Oil has been the best lube for .22 semiautos that I have used. Corrosion-X is great also.

Rem-Oil is good down to around -40F according to the specs. I've used it down to around -0F. Colder than that is too cold for me. The RCMP and Chuck Taylor (Combat Handgunnery 4th Edition) tested it back in the day, and found it exceptional for cold weather use. A lot of duck hunters I know use it in Eastern Arkansas without complaint.

I don't think I've ever even seen a weapon "fail to cycle" after using ANY kind of lube, much less a thin one that penetrates quickly like Rem-Oil. It seems to fix wonky guns quicker than anything else I've tried for that very reason.

I'd never argue that there are longer lasting lubes out there. The best one is grease.

Keep on rockin' what you dig. Different strokes and all that. The American economy certainly depends on it, us being a nation of consumers and all.

[orionz06]

Slowed down then stopped would be a better way to describe it. I did have a bolt gun lock up with Remoil being the only lube and a friend had the same happen, both had sat in freezing conditions for over an hour.

[Clay]

For heavy duty use, it's hard to argue with uncle Pat's EWL. No lube thread is complete without this -

https://www.slip2000.com/blog/s-w-a-t-magazine-filthy-14/

I honestly think this shows that the AR platform is pretty awesome, and if you keep adding lube, it'll keep running.


Other than water in the bolt-action, I'm not sure what would've froze. Once the majority of the mineral spirits evaporates from Rem-Oil, there is nothing left to really freeze. Try G-96 Gun Treatment. Very popular in Canada and Maine.

[Mike C]

Rich's Obligatory Lubricant Market Survey ,from the last run up and down this staircase: :cool:


Slide Glide Lite, tube, 0.25 oz. $26.00 / oz

Fireclean 2 oz. $9.97 / oz

Slipstream Weapon Lubricant 2 oz. (est) $7.50 / oz.

Rand CLP Nano 2 oz. bottle $6.57 / oz

Wilson Ultima Lube Universal 2 oz. bottle $5.97 / oz

Militec-1 4oz Lubricant $5.73 / oz

M-Pro Gun oil LPX 2 oz. bottle $4.99 / oz

Inox MX3 100 g (3.5 oz) small $4.28 / oz

Froglube 4 oz. bottle $3.93 / oz

Weapon Shield WS-4 4 oz. bottle $3.73 / oz

Slip EWL 4 oz. $3.24 / oz

Gunzilla 4oz twist top $2.99 / oz

Royal Purple 02514 Synfilm High Performance Synthetic Air Compressor Lubricant 2 oz. $2.87 / oz.

Breakfree CLP 4 oz. $2.82 / oz

Lucas Oil 10006 Gun Oil 2 oz. $2.57 / oz

Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubrication 4 oz. $2.50 / oz

Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil Aerosol 6 oz. $1.96 / oz

Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil 16 oz. $1.87 / oz. (Brownell's, plus shipping)

Hoppe's No. 9 Lubricating oil, 2 1/4 oz. $1.55 / oz

Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant Drip-Bottle, 6 oz. $1.50 / oz

Rem oil Gun Lubricant Aerosol Can 10 oz. $1.16 / oz

3 in One PTFE Lubricant, 4 oz, Lowe's $0.99 / oz

WD-40 Multi-use Spray 16 oz. $0.87 / oz

Mineral Oil USP Vi-Jon 16 oz. $0.51 / oz

Mobil 1 10w-40 32 oz. $0.50 / oz

Home Depot Husky Air Compressor Oil, 16 oz bottle $0.16 / oz

Canola oil, Crisco pure, 48 oz. $0.06 / oz

Distilled Water, Deer Park, 6 x 1 gallon $0.03 / oz

PS I use Slip 2000 EWL, it seems to work as well as anything. :)


I fixed that list for you. You forgot the most important one...

K-Y Yours + Mine Couples Lubricant, two 1.5 fl oz $18.99

Slide Glide Lite, tube, 0.25 oz. $26.00 / oz

Fireclean 2 oz. $9.97 / oz

Slipstream Weapon Lubricant 2 oz. (est) $7.50 / oz.

Rand CLP Nano 2 oz. bottle $6.57 / oz

Wilson Ultima Lube Universal 2 oz. bottle $5.97 / oz

Militec-1 4oz Lubricant $5.73 / oz

M-Pro Gun oil LPX 2 oz. bottle $4.99 / oz

Inox MX3 100 g (3.5 oz) small $4.28 / oz

Froglube 4 oz. bottle $3.93 / oz

Weapon Shield WS-4 4 oz. bottle $3.73 / oz

Slip EWL 4 oz. $3.24 / oz

Gunzilla 4oz twist top $2.99 / oz

Royal Purple 02514 Synfilm High Performance Synthetic Air Compressor Lubricant 2 oz. $2.87 / oz.

Breakfree CLP 4 oz. $2.82 / oz

Lucas Oil 10006 Gun Oil 2 oz. $2.57 / oz

Boeshield T-9 Waterproof Lubrication 4 oz. $2.50 / oz

Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil Aerosol 6 oz. $1.96 / oz

Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil 16 oz. $1.87 / oz. (Brownell's, plus shipping)

Hoppe's No. 9 Lubricating oil, 2 1/4 oz. $1.55 / oz

Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant Drip-Bottle, 6 oz. $1.50 / oz

Rem oil Gun Lubricant Aerosol Can 10 oz. $1.16 / oz

3 in One PTFE Lubricant, 4 oz, Lowe's $0.99 / oz

WD-40 Multi-use Spray 16 oz. $0.87 / oz

Mineral Oil USP Vi-Jon 16 oz. $0.51 / oz

Mobil 1 10w-40 32 oz. $0.50 / oz

Home Depot Husky Air Compressor Oil, 16 oz bottle $0.16 / oz

Canola oil, Crisco pure, 48 oz. $0.06 / oz

Distilled Water, Deer Park, 6 x 1 gallon $0.03 / oz

[45dotACP]

I use whatever they were handing out for free at the last class, match, or press event. It works great, and I highly recommend it!

Not gonna lie, that's why I originally started lubing my guns with motor oil. It was left over after changing the oil in my car and what am I gonna do with 8 spare ounces of motor oil?

Does that make me a horrible person or do I just get three "killed in the streets" demerits?

[LSP972]

Some people like to run down WD-40, and I know a lot of guys that have used that stuff for 40 years without any drama.

You were doing real good until you got right there.

I know of three cops (there are many others; I know the personal details of three) who wish they had never heard of WD-40. Why, you ask? Because they used it on their duty revolvers, and several weeks/months later, when the flag went up for them, they got clicks instead of bangs… because that shit kills ammunition deader than The HildeBeast's sex appeal. It also turns to varnish if applied liberally and left unattended. Seen that myself too.

Just because Uncle Herschel's Browning duck gun got sprayed down with WD-40 all the time, and still works after seventy-dozen years, doesn't mean it is a smart thing to use on active-duty firearms. BTW, they have changed something in the formula. In cold weather, I used to use WD-40 like nitro blast, to kick-start my ethanol-fuelled model airplane engines by spraying a shot into the open carburetor and then letting the starter eat. Worked like a champ. Not any more. All this new stuff did was gum up the front bearing (which is directly under the carburetor).

As for Rem-Oil… well, I'm not going to argue that one with you. All I know is, we tried it on a few Sigs, and after 100 or so rounds the guns began acting like they were bereft of lube. As in, malfunctioning. That's where WE got the idea the stuff "burns off"… no parroting involved here.

.

[Shumba]

Roger that.
WD = water displacing , and it does that very well.
For anything else, no joy. Kills primers deader than dead.
TW25 AKA elephant jizz for grease, EWL for everything else.
Shumba

[Clay]

You were doing real good until you got right there.

I know of three cops (there are many others; I know the personal details of three) who wish they had never heard of WD-40. Why, you ask? Because they used it on their duty revolvers, and several weeks/months later, when the flag went up for them, they got clicks instead of bangs… because that shit kills ammunition deader than The HildeBeast's sex appeal. It also turns to varnish if applied liberally and left unattended. Seen that myself too.

Just because Uncle Herschel's Browning duck gun got sprayed down with WD-40 all the time, and still works after seventy-dozen years, doesn't mean it is a smart thing to use on active-duty firearms. BTW, they have changed something in the formula. In cold weather, I used to use WD-40 like nitro blast, to kick-start my ethanol-fuelled model airplane engines by spraying a shot into the open carburetor and then letting the starter eat. Worked like a champ. Not any more. All this new stuff did was gum up the front bearing (which is directly under the carburetor).

As for Rem-Oil… well, I'm not going to argue that one with you. All I know is, we tried it on a few Sigs, and after 100 or so rounds the guns began acting like they were bereft of lube. As in, malfunctioning. That's where WE got the idea the stuff "burns off"… no parroting involved here.

.

I'd bet the problem with WD-40 was operator error, as in using so much of it that the ammo was soaked and killed the primers.

Any cleaner or lube will kill primers if you use it improperly. Water will kill primers dead, too. I accidentally killed a handful of carry ammo with Hoppes #9 solvent. I don't caution people not to use it, though. Keep your ammo reasonably dry and unlubricated- problem solved.

Saying that if you apply something liberally and leave it unattended, it'll screw something up, doesn't exactly make it sound like the fault of the product. A thin film would've worked fine, I reckon.

I do get tired of seeing people run down a perfectly serviceable product because they failed to use it properly. It's a disservice, if nothing else. With that kind of logic we can find fault with everything, and of course a lot of people do. I don't use WD-40 on my guns, but I would if I had to, and I bet they wouldn't know the difference. I have tested it a few times without any problem, other than it has a strong smell.

I've used Rem-Oil on a Sig P228 9mm and it completed a 400ish round pistol class with no malfunctions, and no relubing. Not ideal, I would've liked to have used something heavier myself because of the gun and the weather, but it was what I had. I like to use a little grease on Sig's, just like Bruce Grey says.

We could certainly argue about it, but we'd just end up still believing we were both right, and continue to use what we like anyways. Lube threads are fun!

[Kennydale]

I only have handguns one revolver , 4 semis I have no problems with Froglube on my Glocks (Keep it out of striker channel, and little on points on rail, a little bit more on barrel sides.) They have their Pros and Cons.

[Tamara]

Detestable schill.

What? It really all does work great. If it stops working great, glop some more in and it'll start working great again.

[RevolverRob]

You know what doesn't kill primers and works pretty well? Silicone spray. Now, I'm not saying I own stock in 3M, nor am I suggesting that their Silicone Spray is the best on the market...but if I wanted to buy some...

That said, I have lubed a bunch of guns with WD40 over the years too, when nothing else was around. No problem getting dirty .22s to run with Remoil or WD40 on my front. Same thing with sticky ARs and the occasional machine gun. In fact, when I was doing a bunch of full auto testing for a friend's company, a can of Rem Oil was always around. Gun starting to slow down or get sludgy? Hit it with some Rem Oil and maybe wipe it with your finger...or if you're really fancy your t-shirt. If you were like me...soak it with some Rem Oil and load the gun and get back to shooting. Enough sloppy oil on there will have dirt flinging out of the gun.

[farscott]

My experience is that you can LUBE a pistol with just about any fluid other than battery acid and it will work for a while. That includes water and whole milk. My experience also is that most of the issues with specific lubes have nothing to do with lubricity but with things like corrosion-resistance, cleaning, temperature stability, and staying where applied. And the smell of burnt lube, especially milk. For that reason, I tend to like CLPs because I can use them for more than just lube, namely for corrosion resistance.

My go-to lube happens to be Break-Free CLP as it is the most common of the CLP products, but I use samples from matches, leftovers from quart bottles of Mobil 1, G96 (smells decent and is great with stainless alloys), bearing greases, etc.

I think people overthink lube.

[rsa-otc]

Problems with WD-40 are real. Been there, done that, bought plenty of T-shirts. Fortunately never in a situation where a life depended on it. The problem is as previously stated WD-40 is a very effective penetrating oil and will kill both powder and primers if more than a "very" thin film is left next to a cartridge for extended lengths of time. I also have seen it harden to a varnish consistency on guns stored for extended lengths of time.

I tend to stay away from penetrating oils for gun care/lubrication for duty/CCW weapons for this reason. Grandpa's field gun, no issue, the rounds are never in the gun long enough for this to be an issue. If it does, so what if the bird got away, unless you are hunting as the only way to put food on the table it's not life threatening.

After 35 years of this I currently have settled on the Mobil 1 I use in my car for lubrication. Cheap (free since it's left over from my oil change), has detergents that are designed to work against carbon build up. I did buy the heavy weight 20-50 for those extremely hot days on the range. I use Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease on my vehicles and where grease may be indicated I will use that for my weapons.

For 35 years every time I came home from the range or removed my gun from the holster at the end of the day I made it a habit to take the 30 seconds to wipe the gun down with a silicone cloth and never had any corrosion issues even when they were blue.

[Clobbersaurus]

OK, here we go - has anyone here EVER used G96? I had never seen it advertised - I bought it at Bass Pro's on the advice of a veteran hunter friend of mine and was blown away. It seems I never saw it advertised because, as I discovered from a very well-known Editor of a gun mag (who asked not to be quoted), G96 is not very popular among them as they resist input and suggestions (apparently CS is not their strong suit). HOWEVER, I have been using this for almost two years and can't find anything but positives. When I bought a Sig in November, they sent me some Lucas lube, which I am now using for lube, but still cleaning with the G96.

Anyone?

I used to use G96 as a cleaner and lube. Excellent product and a very good corrosion protector. It's a decent lube but likes to spit out of the gun, and requires more frequent applications. Now I just use G96 to clean and protect and lube with Lucas Red "n" Tacky.

[PPGMD]

As usual, LL is trying to get us sued...

They are probably already amending the suit to include P-F, LL, and most of us here.

[Failure2Stop]

Sweet baby Jesus...there are still people defending WD-40...
If you use it and like it, good for ya; but much like your browser history, it isn't going to improve anybody's life.

[LSP972]

Problems with WD-40 are real. Been there, done that, bought plenty of T-shirts. Fortunately never in a situation where a life depended on it. The problem is as previously stated WD-40 is a very effective penetrating oil and will kill both powder and primers if more than a "very" thin film is left next to a cartridge for extended lengths of time. I also have seen it harden to a varnish consistency on guns stored for extended lengths of time.



Yup. But some folks simply don't believe it. Maybe they like FrogLube, too... dunno.

.

[LittleLebowski]

What? It really all does work great. If it stops working great, glop some more in and it'll start working great again.

Time to put her down, her sarcasm meter is off :( I'll grab a shovel.

[Failure2Stop]

As far as "pores" go, there are places for liquids to retain on surface treatments such as parkerization and anodizing.
Machining metal will result in tool marks and surface imperfections that can hold liquids.
Even a shiny surface, such as a polished knife edge, will not be perfectly flat, and can retain liquids.
This is without getting into steel grain structure which I am not qualified to discuss.

BUT...as far as "pores" such as found on skin or an orange-peel...not so much.

[Clay]

I certainly don't recommend WD-40, and I am not "defending it" per se, but I see guns come in the range all the time that are lubed with it and they work just fine. Nobody died, the ammo went bang, and I see no reason to make a witch hunt out of it, or try to talk everyone into using my favorite goop. I bet ya a dollar there are more guns out there with WD-40 on them than anything else, other than maybe Cosmoline or chicken grease. :) Again, not saying it's right, just saying it ain't the Antichrist.

I've used pretty much every lube out there, because at one time I really enjoyed testing stuff out and doing the research on it. I spent a ton of time and money. I mean I really geeked out on this stuff. I had boxes of data sheets and test results, and a laptop full of PDF stuff. I have a pretty good idea of what the "best" lubes are, and what I prefer to use on my own guns. Having said all that, I just have never had any "lube failures" that I read so much about on internet gun forums. I've had some that last longer, some that protect better, and some with features that I liked or didn't like, but I've never found a gun lube yet that caused a gun to suddenly cease to work, or destroyed the gun or the ammo in it, as long as I used it correctly.

I feel pretty strongly that pretty much any lube is better than no lube, and that most of the commonly available stuff will work fine for most people. Very very few people will benefit from a high-speed product like Weaponshield or Slip EWL, and those folks (many of you here) may find a good synthetic engine oil and grease to do the trick just as well. For folks like LL that prefer the convenience of a specific "gun" product, it's hard to beat Weaponshield. Excellent product all around, and you can be proud of the company that makes it (IMO). That is all. :)

[Default.mp3]

I remember a story about a gunsmith who used to keep cans of WD-40 on his checkout counter; never recommended anyone to use it as lube or anything, just had it out on display. When asked why he did that, since WD-40 is a shit tier lube, he replied "job security".

[LittleLebowski]

For folks like LL that prefer the convenience of a specific "gun" product, it's hard to beat Weaponshield. Excellent product all around, and you can be proud of the company that makes it (IMO). That is all. :)

Ehh, I think that George is a nice guy, his weapons lube works well, and that it's unfortunate that he let himself get caught up in the Fireclean fiasco and therefore is getting sued but I don't buy his metal treatment claims (http://mpclubricants.com/products/?lubricant-products=2).

[LittleLebowski]

As usual, LL is trying to get us sued...

I learned from my last paternity suit, don't worry.

No profanity but adult humor: https://youtu.be/mt5IvL1Uw7g?t=11s

[Josh Runkle]

I think appropriate gun lube is sort of a gun-specific issue.

Some guns, like a GLOCK or a USP (Non-O-Ring ones) will run really well dry for a really long time. Not that they should, just that they can.

Other guns, like many AR15 variants, should be run pretty wet/well lubed.

My experience is that understanding what guns need which type of lubrication and when, where and how often, is far more important than the actual product being used, with the exemption of extreme temperatures or humidity. Obviously the "extremes" require scenario-specific solutions. I don't have any experience with guns at extreme high altitude, like 17,000+, so I have no data/experience for that scenario, and whether or not it has any effect.

[LSP972]

I think appropriate gun lube is sort of a gun-specific issue.

Some guns, like a GLOCK or a USP (Non-O-Ring ones) will run really well dry for a really long time. Not that they should, just that they can.

Other guns, like many AR15 variants, should be run pretty wet/well lubed.

My experience is that understanding what guns need which type of lubrication and when, where and how often, is far more important than the actual product being used.

Indeed. Well said.

.

[LittleLebowski]

For folks like LL that prefer the convenience of a specific "gun" product

The convenience has a lot to do with the cost and the aerosol application method of the Royal Purple gun oil (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FUNZF2/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000FUNZF2&linkCode=as2&linkId=YMSYZ2TL76HRHRWA). Plus, Royal Purple is like Lucas; they aren't selling secret, expensive, and overhyped stuff; they are well known for other quality products in the automotive world.

[Luke]

Royal purple isn't that great in cars either. We ran some in race cars and didn't like it as much as amsoil. As far as I'm concerned, Lucas and amsoil are the best out there :)

[rsa-otc]

I certainly don't recommend WD-40, and I am not "defending it" per se, but I see guns come in the range all the time that are lubed with it and they work just fine. Nobody died, the ammo went bang, and I see no reason to make a witch hunt out of it, or try to talk everyone into using my favorite goop. I bet ya a dollar there are more guns out there with WD-40 on them than anything else, other than maybe Cosmoline or chicken grease. :) Again, not saying it's right, just saying it ain't the Antichrist.
I hear you, except that at first you hinted that it was getting a bad rap and later that it was operator error.

For your target/range toy, there would never be any issues because the ammo isn't in the gun long enough before being fired to cause it to miss fire. Same can be said for most hunting guns. But for guns that are used for self defense ya it's the Anti Christ. The rounds sit in the gun more than enough time to cause major issues. The one thing I want/need my SD gun to do is go bang.

I was around when WD-40 hit the market and it was touted as the "latest & greatest" for everything especially guns and we all drank the Cool Aide (nothing changed in 30 plus years it seems). Then the issues started popping up and people's lives were on the line. Then the "Cool Aide" was no longer cool.

Now don't get me wrong I love WD-40 as an all around general lubricant, penetrating oil & water displacement, I always have a can available at work and at home. Before PB Blaster came along WD-40 was my go to penetrating oil. Our trucks are equipped with special high security locks and it is a disciplinary offense to use anything other than WD-40.

But for self defense guns NO WAY.

I totally concur with what Josh Runkle just said.

[Tamara]

Time to put her down, her sarcasm meter is off :( I'll grab a shovel.

Huh? It really does work great. That's what they told me to shi...say.

[41magfan]

I've never really understood why WD-40 is vilified to the extent that it is, but it's been going on since gun magazines were the vehicle for half-truths.

While it's not my first (or second) choice as a lubricant or a cleaner, I've used it successfully for both for short-term use in noncritical environments. When my hunting guns get exposed to rain or other wet conditions, they get doused in the stuff before they're eventually detailed stripped and properly cleaned. I've never experienced rust in my guns following this regiment, but I certainly have when it wasn't used immediately to displace the moisture.

I'm sure you could - over time - expose ammo to enough WD-40 to render them dead but casual exposure is a non-issue with quality ammo.

Would anyone care to argue that these rounds aren't likely exposed to a "critical" amount of WD-40? They're swimming in the stuff.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/JPvJaK.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plJPvJaKj)

After being submerged in the deadly poison for 8 hrs today, one of these test rounds detonated just fine a few minutes ago. I'll wait 24 hrs for the other one but I'll be surprised if the result isn't the same. For what it's worth, I tested this theory 30 years ago by leaving factory rounds submerged for many days before even a small number of them were compromised. I can't recall the performance details now, but the thought of trifling amounts of WD-40 causing me ammo problems was immediately vanquished.

As a side note, WD-40 is trashed in the same manner by most of the motorcycle community as a maintenance product for O-ring chains. I still chuckle when a disproportionate number of detractors (who use specialized products, of course) seldom come close to the service life I get from my chains.

The truth - the whole truth - and nothing but the truth - about anything, continues to be a rarity in this ole world.

[LSP972]

The truth - the whole truth - and nothing but the truth - about anything, continues to be a rarity in this ole world.

True enough. However, the numerous incidents of WD-40 killing ammunition in police revolver cylinders was well-known and thoroughly documented back in that day; the incidents I have personal knowledge of were in Mississippi and Louisiana. I have heard of same as far away as Kansas. I have no clue what you refer to as "trifling", but those were all factory-loaded cartridges.

It happened; it was real. Some may elect to disregard it. That is their privilege.

.

[farscott]

The penetrating oil impact of WD-40 on ammo is not something that occurs in eight to twenty-four hours. Let a box of cartridges be exposed for a week, two weeks, and a month and then repeat the experiment. You can also do the same thing with other penetrating oils, like Kroil, if speed is of the essence. My typical usage of Kroil is to wait overnight, and Kroil penetrates and creeps under lead and carbon better than any other penetrating oil I have used. I clean suppressed gun components with Kroil, but I keep the stuff away from ammo. Kroil will put ammo out of service in less than twenty-four hours of exposure.

There is no doubt that long-term exposure to WD-40 will cause primers and powder to not perform as designed.

[Slavex]

I will admit to using WD40 on my guns, mostly my pistols, after the rare detail cleaning I do on them. I use brake clean or some other degreasing agent on them and when done spray them down with WD40 to get rid of the dryness. Then wipe it down and lube properly, with militec 1 (because I have a couple litres of it). I also use WD40 on guns when they get rained on, until I can get them home to clean properly, or, in the case of some of my guns, I just leave em. No rust on them yet. I do not use it as a lube though. Should I ever run out of Militec 1, I will likely go to Mobil 1 synthetic.

[TCinVA]

I use WD-40 quite often...especially if the gun has been out in the elements.

[Failure2Stop]

I use WD-40 quite often...especially if the gun has been out in the elements.

Much like Quick-Scrub or brake-cleaner, when used appropriately it's not going to have an adverse effect.
And much like sunscreen, margarine, crisco, or a loogie, anything is better than nothing.
But when it comes to a recommendation, I would not recommend it over even break-free CLP.

[ReverendMeat]

Much like Quick-Scrub or brake-cleaner, when used appropriately it's not going to have an adverse effect.
And much like sunscreen, margarine, crisco, or a loogie, anything is better than nothing.
But when it comes to a recommendation, I would not recommend it over even break-free CLP.

What's wrong with break-free CLP?

[Kyle Reese]

I voted for Option 3.

[Failure2Stop]

What's wrong with break-free CLP?

Stuff would get into cuts and make wart-like growths (don't know if the current mix does the same or not).
Really low burn-off temp.
Would react to certain environmental and common chemical exposure causing significantly increased corrosion (don't know if the current mix does the same).
Has not been MIL-PRF compliant for a loooong time.
Generally outclassed by anything made in the last 10 years.

[Buckshot]

I'm a fairly successful full-time gunsmith - customers using WD-40 are big money makers. It maybe not the worst thing anyone put on their gun today, but it will be a few years from now. And that's more often than the average gun owner will clean & lube it. In time, it turns into a gummy substance, then a hard lacquer type substance. We call it the Gunsmith's best friend for a reason. :cool:
If I had a finely blued firearm get soaked, sweated or bled on, and the only thing available that was WD-40 - then I would use it in an emergency until I could clean the WD off with solvent. Given the choice, I'd rather wipe motor oil off a dipstick to use on my own guns than spray WD-40 on them.
I'm not a lube Nazi at all, but please don't use WD-40!

[Sigfan26]

Worst one I saw was a dude that used Pam Cooking Spray as a CLP.

[41magfan]

I've never really understood why WD-40 is vilified to the extent that it is, but it's been going on since gun magazines were the vehicle for half-truths.

While it's not my first (or second) choice as a lubricant or a cleaner, I've used it successfully for both for short-term use in noncritical environments. When my hunting guns get exposed to rain or other wet conditions, they get doused in the stuff before they're eventually detailed stripped and properly cleaned. I've never experienced rust in my guns following this regiment, but I certainly have when it wasn't used immediately to displace the moisture.

I'm sure you could - over time - expose ammo to enough WD-40 to render them dead but casual exposure is a non-issue with quality ammo.

Would anyone care to argue that these rounds aren't likely exposed to a "critical" amount of WD-40? They're swimming in the stuff.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/JPvJaK.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/plJPvJaKj)

After being submerged in the deadly poison for 8 hrs today, one of these test rounds detonated just fine a few minutes ago. I'll wait 24 hrs for the other one but I'll be surprised if the result isn't the same. For what it's worth, I tested this theory 30 years ago by leaving factory rounds submerged for many days before even a small number of them were compromised. I can't recall the performance details now, but the thought of trifling amounts of WD-40 causing me ammo problems was immediately vanquished.

As a side note, WD-40 is trashed in the same manner by most of the motorcycle community as a maintenance product for O-ring chains. I still chuckle when a disproportionate number of detractors (who use specialized products, of course) seldom come close to the service life I get from my chains.

The truth - the whole truth - and nothing but the truth - about anything, continues to be a rarity in this ole world.

I totally forgot about the other round that's been completely submerged since the 14th, so I fished it out and took to the range today. It detonated just fine after 11 days of exposure.

[TCinVA]

The WD in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement"...which it seems to do a relatively good job at. As a lube it leaves much to be desired, IMO.

[Jay Cunningham]

WD-40 has a place when using the boiling hot water method to clean your corrosive ammo'd 5.45mm carbines.

But after you use the WD-40, it needs to be removed as well.

[orionz06]

WD-40 has a place when using the boiling hot water method to clean your corrosive ammo'd 5.45mm carbines.

But after you use the WD-40, it needs to be removed as well.

WD-40 post brake clean as well.

[Failure2Stop]

I totally forgot about the other round that's been completely submerged since the 14th, so I fished it out and took to the range today. It detonated just fine after 11 days of exposure.

As stated before, the issue isn't that it immediately renders all ammunition dead, but rather that it creeps in over time and deadens primers/contaminates the powder.
Primer and mouth sealant will likely stave off the issue for decades.
If you really want to truthfully test the issue, you would need to expose a few boxes of different ammunition types (sealed and unsealed primers, lead and jacketed projectiles) to WD-40, and shoot a single round of each every month after a month or two of initial exposure.

[TCinVA]

It is marketed as a penetrant...so it's safe to assume that sooner or later it will penetrate.

F2S also highlights one of the reasons why we have such a thing as defense/duty grade ammo...because it is manufactured to, as much as possible, keep contaminants and the environment out so it reliably goes bang. Most of your run-of-the-mill target ammo does not have the benefit of sealed primers and a sealed case.

[41magfan]

As stated before, the issue isn't that it immediately renders all ammunition dead, but rather that it creeps in over time and deadens primers/contaminates the powder.
Primer and mouth sealant will likely stave off the issue for decades.
If you really want to truthfully test the issue, you would need to expose a few boxes of different ammunition types (sealed and unsealed primers, lead and jacketed projectiles) to WD-40, and shoot a single round of each every month after a month or two of initial exposure.

I did all that many decades ago with all sorts of "poisons" including CLP's, bore/cleaning solvents and all manner of lubricants. WD-40 didn't prove to be disproportionally more "deadly" than many of the other liquid products we put on our guns.

Let me try and put this into some relevant context .... again.

I'm not a fanboy or advocate of WD-40 as a cleaner or a lube since there's way too many other products better suited to the task. But, too much of drivel I hear about its potential to cause irrevocable disaster if you let it anywhere near your guns is overstated.

[Trooper224]

I saw this yesterday and it made me chuckle. Talk about product placement overload and acting as if cleaning and lubing a gun is tantamount to launching a rocket to Mars. I won't even touch the f'ed up disassembly method.

[ReverendMeat]

I saw this yesterday and it made me chuckle. Talk about product placement overload and acting as if cleaning and lubing a gun is tantamount to launching a rocket to Mars. I won't even touch the f'ed up disassembly method.

Saw what?

[Trooper224]

Saw what?

Excellent question. :) Note to self: self, remember attachment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLSjbQkIdlk

[PPGMD]

Doesn't seem much different than the dozens of cleanings videos on the internet, with the usual plugging the sponsors. I've done a couple of videos on various subjects plugging sponsor products where applicable.

[LittleLebowski]

Excellent question. :) Note to self: self, remember attachment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLSjbQkIdlk

I can't watch his crap.