J-frame springs

[Irelander]

I recently added a 642 no dash to my stable. I'd like to give it some new springs to lighten up the trigger pull. I also plan to give the rebound slide a little polishing. I was going to order the Apex kit but I can't use the firing pin since my firing pin is pinned in place. Will it cause issues to replace the springs and not replace the firing pin?

I see that Wilson Combat sells J-frame spring kits sans firing pin and are cheaper than the Apex kit. Is the Wilson kit good to go?

I made my own snap caps from spent 38SPL casings and some silicone sealant in the primer pocket. Seems to work well and I am enjoying getting to know this revolver. Its my first j-frame.

[mtnbkr]

I wouldn't replace the hammer spring. The rebound spring can go lighter without impacting ignition reliability, but if you go too light, it may slow down trigger reset. That said, my 10yo j-frame has about as quick a reset with a 14lb rebound spring as it did with the factory 18lb spring.

Just get some rebound springs from Wolff.

Chris

[LSP972]

I wouldn't replace the hammer spring. The rebound spring can go lighter without impacting ignition reliability, but if you go too light, it WILL slow down trigger reset.


This^.

And be VERY careful about polishing the rebound slide. If you "break" one of the bottom edges/corners, it can begin to gall and/or bind. Better to just dry-fire the piss out of it. And you don't need snap caps on these little critters. Use them if it makes you feel better, but they are not necessary.

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[Irelander]

Thanks for the advice guys.

[Irelander]

I got an Apex kit and just installed the rebound spring for now. Much better in dry fire. I also polished the rebound slide slightly. Really liking this little revolver.

[fatdog]

All mine have the 14# TRS and then as cited, dry fire the snot of the the little bugger. Around 3K dry fire snaps you have a good trigger job done without buffing and hopefully you built some great trigger management skills in the process.

[Moonshot]

Originally posted by LSP972

And you don't need snap caps on these little critters. Use them if it makes you feel better, but they are not necessary.


Why is this? I thought dry firing without snap caps was always a bad idea, regardless of gun.

[Sigfan26]

I had a buddy that had issues with the full apex kit when he was using Gold Dot. He added a C&S extended firing pin and hasn't had a problem since. I personally haven't had issues with the full kit using Remington HTP (FBI LOAD, 125+p) or Golden saber.

[TCinVA]

I installed the full Wilson kit in the 638 I carry daily. It has given reliable ignition on every live round I've fired through the gun, be it defensive grade JHP or crappy bulk target ammo.

[LSP972]

Why is this? I thought dry firing without snap caps was always a bad idea, regardless of gun.

Nah. Important indeed on a .22 rimfire caliber pistol or revolver in general, important on a few manufacturer guns... like, say, some Llamas and others with free-floating firing pins.

Most other handguns have pinned/spring-loaded firing pins that are okay dry firing. EVERY S&W center fire revolver I've ever dry-fired.. and some of them have been many thousands of times, back when I was deep into PPC competition... have had no issues with that. Ditto Colt and Rock River big-buck 1911s made for bullseye shooting. I should add that MANY of the older S&W revolvers hammer noses (what they call the firing pin) are not "spring loaded"; but the deal is, the hammer noses are not hitting anything during dry firing- the hammer FACES are what is hitting the frame. Yup, seen a few of them break... because the hammer nose/firing pin was sticking in the hammer, because the revolver was not cleaned regularly OR properly, and the hammer nose/firing pin was sticking in the hammer itself from crud/etc. and not flowing through the very narrow path in the back of the frame, behind the recoil shield, smoothly and correctly.

IOW, its just not an issue in most center fire weapons; period.

THAT said... I have seen a few things with damaged Glock breech faces that sure seemed to be the direct result of the striker pin being dry fired a lot. Never had a problem with Glocks, but then I (and most cops) hardly dry fire them either. Might be something to worry about if you do dry fire your Glock a lot without a cap. Don't really know about those.

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