Advice wanted on an older 642

[Irelander]

I have been toying around with the idea of getting a snubby wheel gun for a while. I'd like a 640 Pro but they are out of my price range. A friend of mine has an older 642 that he has been wanting to sell and I offered to trade my 10/22 for it. I am currently borrowing the 642 to check it out and see if it is actually something I want. I have not shot it yet but the gun seems to lock up nicely and looks in great condition. The trigger is smooth but heavy so I would plan to put the Apex kit in it if that is possible. I know my friend has not shot it much at all but not sure about the previous owner. It looks to me that the frame is nickel plated. I first figured it was an older gun when I saw the old style cylinder release and no lock. The crane shows a model number of 642 but no dash. Here are some pictures of it and the stamping on the grip frame.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/47624012/SW642_005.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/47624012/SW642_001.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/47624012/SW642_002.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/47624012/SW642_003.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/47624012/SW642_004.JPG

I really do not know much about wheel guns other than they are fun to shoot. I plan on using this gun for CCW use occasionally when I feel like something different. I plan to carry it AIWB (need holster) and shoot the recommended wadcutter ammo.

Given that the gun shoots well, is there anything I should look for regarding operation that I need to be worried about? I have not opened the side plate but I probably will before I make the final decision to make the deal. Anything to look for regarding the internals? Is the NO DASH something to be concerned about? Were any 642s nickel plated from the factory?

Thanks in advance for the help.

[Nephrology]

That finish looks a little sketchy to me.... how does one nickel plate an aluminum frame?

and while I am not an S&W guru, as far as I know the early 642s had an anodized frame. I would be surprised if it came from the factory with that finish. No dash just means it's an early gun - not necessarily a problem in and of itself, unless it is a model/era of guns known to have issues. I don't know if that is the case with the early 642s.

Internals - it would be far out of my lane to give you specific things to look for. Make sure it can ignite factory ammunition.

[Chuck Haggard]

The early 642s had several different frame finishes when they were trying to get something that matched the stainless steel parts.

[Moonshot]

I can't help you much on this gun, but if you don't know what you are doing, and/or don't have the proper tools, I would not remove the side plate. You can damage the gun if you do it the wrong way.

If you must get it open, have a gunsmith who knows Smiths do it for you.

[Irelander]

I'm not sure if it is nickel or not of if it is even possible to nickel plate it. Maybe it is just polished aluminum. Just looked different to me...not bad but different.

[LSP972]

Were any 642s nickel plated from the factory?



Not that I know of. The frame and sideplate look like "normal" clear-anodized alloy to me; including a few oxidation spots. Those rubber stocks are notorious for trapping moisture/condensation; the few oxidized spots on the frame (left) side are found on most S&W revolvers that feature rubber stocks which haven't been removed/cleaned under in a long time. Dunno what's up with the apparent oxidation in the S&W logo stamp on the sideplate, though.

It is indeed an "older gun"; the trigger is flash-chromed steel, not MIM, and I suspect the rest of the working parts are as well. If that matters to you. Nothing wrong with properly-executed MIM, but it isn't traditional.

All in all, I think that is a good example of a pre-95 Centennial J frame, and one you should snag. 10/22s are a dime a dozen; older J frames in good condition are few and far between. Most folks that have them, tend to keep them.

Once you get inside, you may find some more oxidation/corrosion. No worries, just brush the offending part/s with a stainless brush, clean off thoroughly with solvent, dry them, add a drop of oil to the cylinder stop/trigger/hammer studs, another drop under the rebound slide, and you're in business.

Just be careful not to mix up the yoke (not a "crane"; Colt revolvers have cranes, S&W revolvers have yokes) screw- the one closest to the front of the revolver- and the middle plate screw. On these guns, the yoke screw is fitted to the yoke stud. Your first clue that you swapped their positions is when the yoke won't open and close smoothly. The rear plate screw sometimes has a flat head; but sometimes not. Anyway, don't mix them up.

And you might want to look into some alternate stocks. Those rubber "bananas" make for nice and easy shooting, but suck for concealment.

Understand, up front, that these little beasts are NOT "fun to shoot". But they serve a purpose that few other mouse gun types can equal.

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[Wayne Dobbs]

I'd buy/trade for that 642 in a flash. I don't care about finish imperfections on my crescent wrench, claw hammer or carry pistol. If it's mechanically sound then it's worth having. It's an early 642 and is not +P rated, although you can use +P in limited quantities in it. It won't blow it up, but accelerates wear. It also has forged lockwork in it as opposed to MIM parts. Just get it.

[LSP972]

I can't help you much on this gun, but if you don't know what you are doing, and/or don't have the proper tools, I would not remove the side plate. You can damage the gun if you do it the wrong way.

If you must get it open, have a gunsmith who knows Smiths do it for you.

Most excellent advice, this^…


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[Nephrology]

The only other thing I have to contribute is that you should definitely get a pair of CT laser grips for that gun. The sights (as I am sure you have noticed) are very small and difficult to use, especially with the stainless finish. Get a pair of CT laser grips and an Apex spring kit and that thing will be good to go.

For holsters, I really like my garrett industries silent thunder for AIWB.

[Chuck Haggard]

and paint the front sight orange, and black out the rear sight with a Sharpie

[Nephrology]

Most excellent advice, this^…


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Removing the side plate + installing a spring kit isn't something beyond the work of a somewhat-skilled amateur. Youtube has plenty of tutorials. The hardest part IMO is swapping out the coil mainspring. After that it's really not so bad.

[Dagga Boy]

Don't have much to add. Get it, clean it up, and grab a set of compact grips for it and you are good to go.

[Irelander]

Well this is great news. Thanks for the advice guys. I will hopefully shoot it this afternoon to verify function. If it works well I will definitely make the trade.

After I took the pictures I wiped it down and the dirt caught under the grips wiped right off. I do not see any oxidation.

I've already been browsing grips. I think the VZ's are the way to go.

[LSP972]

Removing the side plate + installing a spring kit isn't something beyond the work of a somewhat-skilled amateur. Youtube has plenty of tutorials. The hardest part IMO is swapping out the coil mainspring. After that it's really not so bad.

Perhaps. But I wish I had a dollar for every somewhat-skilled amateur who brought me a sandwich bag of pieces/parts and… never mind.

Not trying to flame you; its just that You-Boob "tutorials" and a couple of "DIY armorer books" have caused me more work and aggravation than you can imagine. And before you ask me why I didn't caution the OP in my initial post, its simple… people are going to do what they want to do. Besides, he may already have someone handy who knows how to get inside the action with no drama.

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[mmc45414]

I also put an XS front sight on my 638. It just glues on with JB Weld. The instructions say to mill it but a patient guy could do it with files. Then I stipple the little top strap area.

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[Irelander]

Perhaps. But I wish I had a dollar for every somewhat-skilled amateur who brought me a sandwich bag of pieces/parts and… never mind.

Not trying to flame you; its just that You-Boob "tutorials" and a couple of "DIY armorer books" have caused me more work and aggravation than you can imagine. And before you ask me why I didn't caution the OP in my initial post, its simple… people are going to do what they want to do. Besides, he may already have someone handy who knows how to get inside the action with no drama.

.

I do most of my own work on firearms. I know the common pitfalls. I definitely understand the risks involved with DIY gun work but I am pretty confident in my mechanical ability and firearms knowledge. I hear what you're saying though, there are a lot of folks that should leave gunsmithing to the professionals and I do when something is above my knowledge or skill base.


By the way. If anyone has a J-frame AIWB holster and some compact grips laying around that they'd like to sell....let me know.

[Beat Trash]

and paint the front sight orange, and black out the rear sight with a Sharpie

I've been doing this for a long time with my revolvers. I broke down and bought a Krylon orange paint pen about 5 years ago, when my agency finally authorized BUG's. I think I paid about $5.00 for that paint pen. It probably painted a couple dozen front sights.

[Irelander]

I've been doing this for a long time with my revolvers. I broke down and bought a Krylon orange paint pen about 5 years ago, when my agency finally authorized BUG's. I think I paid about $5.00 for that paint pen. It probably painted a couple dozen front sights.

This will definitely be something I do with my 642.

[jh9]

Perhaps. But I wish I had a dollar for every somewhat-skilled amateur who brought me a sandwich bag of pieces/parts and… never mind.

Not trying to flame you; its just that You-Boob "tutorials" and a couple of "DIY armorer books" have caused me more work and aggravation than you can imagine.

Hey. There are a lot of youtube videos out there. I'm certain one or two of them are even right. :p


Removing the side plate + installing a spring kit isn't something beyond the work of a somewhat-skilled amateur. Youtube has plenty of tutorials
Just because someone can get it apart and back together on camera doesn't mean they're doing it right. There was once a thread on THR where a guy rebarreled his model 10 by sticking a hammer handle through the frame window and unscrewing it like one of those spare tire jacks. Just because he didn't spring the frame doesn't mean the frame wrenches with supports on both sides are unnecessary...

Getting it back together and passing a function check doesn't mean you didn't set yourself up for failure a few miles down the road. Granted, the design isn't the most complicated thing out there, but there are still gotchas that aren't covered in the youtube videos. Even the professional videos. I know some people cringe a bit when Miculek works the action with the sideplate off in his trigger job video.

(I don't know enough to comment on that one, in particular. I know it *can* bend the studs, but I wonder if that happens were those studs prone to premature failure anyway... I can see someone that has to maintain a fleet of guns being particular about not doing it, but at the same time it seems a lot like proof firing: IOW a good way to make certain the studs aren't soft or cracked.)

[LSP972]

Just because someone can get it apart and back together on camera doesn't mean they're doing it right.

Indeed. By far, the most common goof I've seen is failing the get the hand torsion spring properly positioned to put tension on the hand, followed by losing said spring on the MIM guns. On the old forged triggers, the hand torsion spring and trigger lever are held in place by two pins. On the MIM triggers, one must CAREFULLY- and in the correct orientation- place the tiny torsion spring into the trigger, then place the trigger lever on top of it, install the hand and engage the spring and keep everything in alignment while installing the assembly. On the forged triggers, once the hand is installed and the spring engaged, the slave pin in the trigger holds everything in place; easy-peasy. On the MIM triggers... well, you'd better be holding your mouth just right.

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[Jim Watson]

Look at the bottom of the receiver ring where it is thinnest over the yoke.
Airweights have been known to crack there and leave you with a box of spare parts.
Depending on the age of the gun, S&W may replace the frame or the whole gun or offer you a new gun at wholesale... or not.

[Irelander]

Thanks for the info, I will check that out.

If anyone is in the market for these Uncle Mikes J-frame combat grips, I'd be willing to trade for some boot style grips. Something more low profile and easier to conceal.

[serialsolver]

I've been doing this for a long time with my revolvers. I broke down and bought a Krylon orange paint pen about 5 years ago, when my agency finally authorized BUG's. I think I paid about $5.00 for that paint pen. It probably painted a couple dozen front sights.

Thanks for the tip. The paint pen is much easier to use than the model paints I've been using.


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[LSP552]

and paint the front sight orange, and black out the rear sight with a Sharpie

That worked for me for a long time. Now I'm "seeing" better results with a strip of Trimbrite tape from the auto parts store. It stays put and is about as bright as Trij HDs. Ignore the ankle holster crud, this 442 gets carried.

And for the OP, I'd jump on it. LSP972 and I both own early no-dash 642s, and they have been excellent.

6163

[Eastex]

That tape looks interesting. It looks like you have it draping over onto the sides, is there a reason you did that instead of trimming it to fit just on the top of the blade?


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[LSP552]

That tape looks interesting. It looks like you have it draping over onto the sides, is there a reason you did that instead of trimming it to fit just on the top of the blade?


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I think it holds better because of the increased surface area. The tape on the side doesn't interfere with my sight picture/alignment.