DIY Steel Rimfire/9mm targets

[seabiscuit]

Here at the Academy, we've got what's probably the greatest metal shop at any undergraduate institution - and it's better than some graduate and commercial shops too. Mills, lathes, drill presses, sanders, grinders, sheet metal tools, MIG and TIG welders, oxy-acetylene torch, water jet, heat treatment ovens... the list goes on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wliYIO_9vTU/Tn0DukVLe1I/AAAAAAAAO4I/qAeKx6QSmRQ/s720/P9230357.JPG

I decided to take advantage of some of the tools and make myself some steel targets. I completed the first one today, and I'll test it this weekend.

My target had to do three things:

Deflect bullets downwards
Swing to absorb bullet energy
Not cost a lot (be free)


I met all three requirements using scrap metal, a band saw, belt grinder, drill press, oxy-acetylene torch, and MIG welder.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ItANiB-YHg4/Tn0DviNinRI/AAAAAAAAO4A/lwVoaeLLTLo/s912/P9230358.JPG

After cutting 8" octagons with tabs out of 1/4" steel plate, I ground the edges to make sure they wouldn't cut me or catch any bullets. Then I placed the tabs in a vice and used the torch to heat the metal to red-hot. Once it was soft, a hammer bent the targets over to the 90 degree angle.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rMgGi1dVLs0/Tn0DwsXwO1I/AAAAAAAAO4E/mqspM85RaUY/s912/P9230359.JPG

I cut a 2" wide strip from the same scrap steel, and began drilling 5/8" holes in it on the drill press. Once the holes were drilled and the 2" squares cut, I ground the edges and corners and headed down to weld. With the tabs mounted, I found some 1/2" steel round stock, cut it, ground spikes into the ends, and welded it into the upside-down U shape.

The plate angles downwards when it's hanging, and swings easily. The whole project cost me about five hours.

I'll test it out this weekend, starting out with my Marlin .22 bolt action and my S&W M&P 15-22, then maybe my Glock 26. We'll see how it does.

[SecondsCount]

That is a great start.

I have one suggestion- Put a couple of struts angled at a 45 degree angle coming off the backside vertical supports. If the soil is soft enough to push the stand into, it will eventially loosen and your target will fall backward. The struts will help prevent this.

What type of steel are you using for the target? I went to my local scrap yard and picked up a scraper bottom from a snow plow for $7.50 My son took it to shop class and cut it into six pieces with the plasma cutter. It holds up fine to pistol and standard 223 ammo, steel core will leave a pockmark.

[Little Creek]

Don't forget your wrap around shooting glasses. Consider a LS shirt and Gloves until you proof the target. I am one and I know a lot of other guys who have had lead splatter and bullet jackets stuck in them from shooting damaged targets. Please don't shoot it with your G26 unless the target is hardened steel, AR400 or T-1 or harder. If the target is made out of mild steel, it might even be damaged by 22 rimfire out of rifles. 22 rimfire out of pistols, reduced velocity, should not damage the targets. 3/8mild steel works pretty good using lead (unjacketed bullets) at reduced velocity. I used to shoot 45ACP with 200 grain bullets loaded to 875 FPS at 3/8 mild steel pepper poppers in IPSC matches. Light weight 9mm FMJ at over 1100 fps will eat up mild steel targets. 1/4 mild steel will bend when shot with just about any center fire handgun round, even lead 38 special. I am 60. I have been shooting steel since 1980. I insist on AR500 or AR550 steel for all my higher FMJ pistol shooting. Good Luck.