S&W M&P 340

[WDW]

Recently sold my 442 and replaced it with this. Not that I plan to shoot .357, but I like the option. I also like the full shroud & front night sight that comes with this model.

Buds has these without the lock for $625. I opted for this over the PD because I don't like the idea of having a gun with a cylinder that can disintegrate if you "clean it" improperly. I'm sure Ti is great for carry but I prefer durability.

Anyone else rocking one of these? This will replace the 442 as a BUG/NPE gun.

[HCM]

I had one a few years ago. Function and mechanical accuracy we're good. The problem was the gun shot 8-12" to the right. I didn't have that issue with my other 2J frames. Had a second shooter try it with same results. After three trips back to Smith & Wesson they were able to reduce the right deflection about 50% but could not eliminate it. The gun was traded off with full disclosure.

[WDW]

I had one a few years ago. Function and mechanical accuracy we're good. The problem was the gun shot 8-12" to the right. I didn't have that issue with my other 2J frames. Had a second shooter try it with same results. After three trips back to Smith & Wesson they were able to reduce the right deflection about 50% but could not eliminate it. The gun was traded off with full disclosure.

For some reason, I bought one of those new "bodyguard" .38's...the LCR knockoff...& it did the same. It shot 6-8" to the right. Sent it back & they agreed. Said it was defective & unfixable. They offered a replacement of that gun or any standard .38 J frame, so I got a 638 & 2 P mags out of them. Hopefully mine won't be peoblematic.

[HCM]

For some reason, I bought one of those new "bodyguard" .38's...the LCR knockoff...& it did the same. It shot 6-8" to the right. Sent it back & they agreed. Said it was defective & unfixable. They offered a replacement of that gun or any standard .38 J frame, so I got a 638 & 2 P mags out of them. Hopefully mine won't be peoblematic.

I don't think it was anything inherent to the MP340 design, I think I just got a lemon. The first time I sent mine back it came back with no change in point of impact.I called up and complained - The Smith & Wesson customer service rep try to lecture me that a J frame is not a gun suitable for shooting at 25 yards. I'm required to shoot a qual course with J frames which includes 15 and 25 yards stages and had no trouble with that using my two 642's. Also I'm not comfortable carrying a gun on the street that requires Kentucky windage. Second trip back they did something, they wouldn't say what but they cut the deflection to four or 5 inches right from 8 to 10. After that they insisted that the gun was "Inspec" and refused to replace it.

[abu fitna]

Have run an M&P340 no lock for the usual small revolver applications for some time now, though still less than 2000 rounds downrange through it. No issues, though probably needs trigger work one of these days; quite heavy and has not smoothed down much yet. Have had some issues with insufficiently crimped 158gr .38 SPL, as one often does with lighter weight j frames.

At speed, I find that I sometimes do not bury that big front sight deep enough in the rear notch; something to work on. Wish this had the Pro rear sights to solve the problem, may sort that out too one of these days.

Have also had no problems with the polymer BG38, surprisingly. While the thing lacks any soul, it does work - and has stood up to a decent amount of abuse and benign neglect thus far.

[LSP972]

I opted for this over the PD because I don't like the idea of having a gun with a cylinder that can disintegrate if you "clean it" improperly.

I hear you, but properly maintaining the titanium cylinder isn't that difficult. I've been shooting, and carrying daily, mine since 2002. The trick is to avoid lead bullets as much as possible. Jacketed bullets, and their residue, cleans up quickly with a nylon brush and solvent. Mine is plenty worn, but still zero sign of etching, or degradation of the clear coat.

The three ounces less of the ti cylinder makes a tremendous difference if you pocket carry. For belt/ankle/armpit/whatever else carry, not so much.

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[LSP972]

Second trip back they did something, they wouldn't say what but they cut the deflection to four or 5 inches right from 8 to 10.

Straightened the barrel shroud, no doubt. The two-piece barrel on these new (post-95 "magnum" frames) J frames has to be torqued just right during assembly, or windage errors are the result. Yours was not an isolated case; I've seen more than a few of those. Sometimes they can fix it; sometimes not. I suspect it depends upon the repair technician who ends up with it on his bench.

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[Super77]

Im rockin one with crimson trace grips. Mine shoots dead on with 158 gr .38 +Ps. It's subjectively smooter/nicer than my 442.

[Dagga Boy]

These are the "HiTS official back ups". Wayne and I both carry one daily to supplement our primary semi-autos (usually a VP9 or P2000). We love the things, but I found they really need an APEX kit.

[LSP972]

Any of the Centennial J frames can benefit from that Apex kit. I've installed over a dozen of them, and every one has shown an immediate improvement in the trigger pull.

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[MGW]

I've never had a J frame and LCR side by side. How much bigger is an LCR with the smaller stocks, grips, whatever Ruger calls them?

I love J frames and shoot them well but the LCR I shot was pretty good also. I really want a 340 but could just about by an LCR in 38 and 22 for what a 340 would run.

[Tamara]

Straightened the barrel shroud, no doubt. The two-piece barrel on these new (post-95 "magnum" frames) J frames has to be torqued just right during assembly, or windage errors are the result.

Huh. I would have thought that with the sight on the shroud that fits key-and-mortise to the frame that this would have solved the issue the unpinned 1-piece barrels sometimes had from over-torquing?

That sucks. Is it the barrel insert getting over-torqued causing the shroud to actually twist?

[HCM]

Huh. I would have thought that with the sight on the shroud that fits key-and-mortise to the frame that this would have solved the issue the unpinned 1-piece barrels sometimes had from over-torquing?

That sucks. Is it the barrel insert getting over-torqued causing the shroud to actually twist?

Not sure as the gun is long down the road but I've heard of similar issues with a few other 340s.

[Tamara]

Oh, I'm not doubting y'all; I'm just curious about the mechanics of it. LSP972's pretty darn clueful on Smith stuff and has disabused me of at least one myth I can think of.

[Salamander]

I picked up a M&P 340 no lock earlier this year, so far pretty happy with it. It's coming on the Dallas trip in a few weeks.

It's fairly pleasant to shoot with wadcutters, brisk with +p gold dots. I'd rather not think about what .357 would feel like, and may never find out. In any case the night sight is easy to see, and it pocket carries nicely. Thus far it has the stock trigger, although it's obvious that the apex kit would be an improvement. It took some dry fire and break-in to be able to shoot the lighter gun as well as my 442.

[LSP972]

Is it the barrel insert getting over-torqued causing the shroud to actually twist?

That's what they tell me. You ever seen the special tool used for snugging those "inner barrels" up? Designed to specifically avoid contact with the shroud, it can still place a lateral load on the insert in the wrong place at the wrong time.

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[Tamara]

That's what they tell me. You ever seen the special tool used for snugging those "inner barrels" up?

Only in pictures, because last I checked, they weren't selling the tools. :(

(Not that we were bitter about that in the gunsmithing department or anything. :mad: )

[LSP972]

Only in pictures, because last I checked, they weren't selling the tools. :(

(Not that we were bitter about that in the gunsmithing department or anything. :mad: )

They don't sell the tools for the same reason they quit selling yokes and cylinders; too many Bubbas read Kunhausen's book and fancied themselves expert gunsmiths as a result.

I haven't seen one in the flesh, either. I'm told it requires a deft hand and lots of practice to use effectively and properly.

I only have two of the "new" J frames; a 342 and 360PD. The former is a safe queen for hard times; the latter gets carried daily and shot fairly regularly, although in small increments (25 rounds or so per session). Its highly unlikely I'll ever own any others of that ilk, unless I blow one up, lose it, etc.; I've become quite fond of the Ti-Scan featherweight in a pocket. But my two shoot straight, and I know how to ensure that the titanium cylinders don't get compromised, so with any luck they'll last me until I no longer have need for them.

So S&W can keep their steenkin' tool…;)

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[LSP972]

I've never had a J frame and LCR side by side. How much bigger is an LCR with the smaller stocks, grips, whatever Ruger calls them?

I love J frames and shoot them well but the LCR I shot was pretty good also. I really want a 340 but could just about by an LCR in 38 and 22 for what a 340 would run.

The LCR is measurably larger, in all dimensions, than a J frame snubby. Whether or not that matters, only you can decide.

I freely admit to a decided bias toward the S&W; 30+ years of dependable service tends to endear a product to you. I know Ruger builds good guns (for the most part, anyway), and have no doubt that the LCR will hang right in there with the S&W in terms of durability, user-friendliness, etc., etc. I just don't LIKE it. Granted, that dislike is based on a sample of one, so I'll be the first to tell you my negative opinion toward the piece doesn't carry that much weight.

OTOH, I feel my mother's example should NOT have gotten so loose in just 100 rounds of light target loads. That makes me wonder. And the DA trigger pull that Ruger ad copy made so much of a big deal about, and some folks were waxing euphoric over… well, pardon me while I yawn. An Apex kit will "clean up" a post-95 J frame quite nicely all by itself, in the second place. In the first place, these are belly guns. Expecting a target-grade trigger in a snubby revolver is like… well, let's just say its unrealistic, eh?

If economics is driving your bus, then the Ruger surely makes more sense. Again, that's something you have to decide.

I've prattled on too long here, but might as well throw this thought out there too: a lot of people also have unrealistic expectations regarding the stocks (grips) on snubby revolvers, whatever the brand. Its one of those you-CANNOT-have-your-cake-and-eat-it-too things. Stocks that conceal easily are not conducive to good shooting; period. They are too small; they allow the gun to squirm in the hand under recoil. Larger stocks that fill the hand better "print" more; period… especially when carried in a pocket. The issue rubber stocks on the LCR feel really good and allow good control; they also sucketh large for pocket carry, unless you're using a side cargo pocket.

IOW, you have several things to consider besides the gun itself. Things like, how are you going to carry it, how often- and with what ammunition- are you going to shoot it, etc.

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[SkiDevil]

I picked up one several months ago. I finally had the opportunity to put some rounds through it last weekend.

Very light, easily concealed and carried.

Recoil is brisk, and noticeable. I fired 25 rounds of Winchester .38 Special 130 grain FMJ and was impressed with the accuracy. Fired at a bullseye pistol target at 15 yards, demonstrated head shots are easily achieved.

Have since bought heavier 158 grain .38, +P 110 & 130 grain .38s, and 125 grain .357 magnum to try-out.

I had to really look around, but found a no-lock model. I like the pistol alot. Excellent fit, and finish.

[Sherman A. House DDS]

I have some relevant content to add here.

1. A fellow in my training group had a LOCK S&W 340. He carried it as a pocket BUG, and as a Church Primary. While firing, some semi-hot 125 grain +P jacketed .38's, it would engage the lock. This is, "out there," from other's experiences, I'm sure, and is a great reason for why the locked Smiths are a bad idea, or at least need some kind of modification to be truly, "carry ready."
2. I got an LCR for a steal ($200 OTD). I bought it originally to use it as a test bed/content for my blog, "Revolver Science." The OEM Hogue monogrip on it is great for comfort, but worthless for concealment. Like others have said, it's too awkwardly shaped for pocket carry. For me, in AIWB, it is made of very, "grippy," rubber that grasps tightly to concealment garments, which is usually a t-shirt or scrub shirt for me. I switched it to the (also made by Hogue) "Boot Grip," and I like it much better. A little less grip length, and it is only rubberized on the front/back straps. I also experimented with a set of Eagle Secret Service Grips, but I didn't really like the way it worked. It looked cool...like some kind of Steampunk machine, but the smooth rosewood wasn't really conducive to good/easy shooting. However, I really like the LCR, and I plan to do more with it. It is also very accurate (like older vintage Centennials, accurate, and shoots dead on POA with 148 grain WC's and 135 grain GD's.)
3. I said all of that (#2) to say that with the, "deals," that many big box stores and Ruger themselves run, you can get two LCR's for the price of one 340. And as any of the other lads here that train extensively with revolvers will tell you, it's always good to have defensive guns in pair or trios, and trios ESPECIALLY for revolvers. With my Smiths, I run two in a class, since (unless it's a revo specific class) there are quite a few more loading evolutions for the wheel gun user, the guns get hot/sooty, and it's nice to have a, "cooler," temp gun to handle/reholster. At least in my experience. Interestingly, my newer GP100's (3" and the Wiley Clapp) don't seem to suffer from the sooty/hot grind down, as severely as my Smiths do.

[Dagga Boy]

Thanks for the hint on your blog.....I like it:cool: Many of my favorite pistols and revolvers and similar paths on guns.

[LSP972]

The lock self-engaging is a known, documented issue... although S&W has never acknowledged it- and never will. It is fairly easy to disable, but one common You-Boob method has the potential for disaster. Here there indeed be dragons... it must be done properly.

Sherman, while I agree with much of your post, I'll confess to never buying into the "you can buy two of these for the price of one of those" rationale. If we're talking a play/range toy, okay, fine. But something you are depending on to save your ass? That's like buying el cheapo tires... not the smartest move, IMO, because there is a very good reason the less-expensive product is... cheaper.

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[Sherman A. House DDS]

Thanks for the hint on your blog.....I like it:cool: Many of my favorite pistols and revolvers and similar paths on guns.

Thank you Sir. I need to get back on publishing. I've been down, off my usual self, from Atrial Fibrillation. I just had it surgically corrected, and I'm on, "light duty," as such, so I will get caught up posting again. Kinda weird stuff, I suppose, but guys like us get a kick out of it, so it's worth doing. I'm raising a 10 year old boy, and I'll be damned if he will ever be one of these jokers that looks at a revolver sideways when he sees one, like many folks unfortunately do, these days.

[Sherman A. House DDS]

I see what you're saying, but let me expound...

I'm NOT saying, "You can buy two High-Points for the price of One Glock! And that gives you a full carry/practice complement of handguns, ready to go!"

The difference between the High Point and the LCR is that the LCR actually works, and I WOULD trust my life/lives to it. Yes, it does have that annoying double reset that many people hate, but that is a subtle nuance that can easily be mitigated by technique. In summary, I WOULDN'T trust my life/family's lives to a cheap gun, but a quality, inexpensive gun (or tire) can be a worthy alternative to the higher priced item.

The last J frame I bought was the Pro 640, and it was around $750. It was next to a Big Dot equipped 340, which I don't recall the exact price on, but it was more. Economics is a concern for some folks. I think that guns like the LCR and the S&W Shield, which can both be had for <$350, are a viable, "pair purchase," for the budget minded pistolero.

[LSP972]

I see what you're saying, but let me expound...

I'm NOT saying, "You can buy two High-Points for the price of One Glock! And that gives you a full carry/practice complement of handguns, ready to go!"

The difference between the High Point and the LCR is that the LCR actually works, and I WOULD trust my life/lives to it. Yes, it does have that annoying double reset that many people hate, but that is a subtle nuance that can easily be mitigated by technique. In summary, I WOULDN'T trust my life/family's lives to a cheap gun, but a quality, inexpensive gun (or tire) can be a worthy alternative to the higher priced item.

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Fair enough.

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[MGW]

Sherman, I found your blog some time back and I'm glad to hear you'll be writing again. Hope you have a quick and full recovery.


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[TheNewbie]

What is the best way to remove the S&W ILS? Is it difficult?

I have heard there are a few different ways, but really only one proper way. Found one video on youtube but not sure how accurate it is.

I have a 637 or whatever the j frame .38 with the hammer is. I would like to get the lock out and an apex kit in. haha