Steel Cased Ammo

[Default.mp3]

I've read several times before on HKPro about the horrors of steel-cased ammo, along with other stories that Google turns up and the posters that avoid all steel in the zinc-plated steel ammo thread here, but I've also known a lot of people that shoot it rather exclusively, and a lot of the forums (e.g., HKPro) where the stories show up aren't very turned on. While my switch from .45 to 9mm has given me substantial savings on the ammo side, I am curious as to whether or not it would be a good idea to feed my only handgun (P30LS) steel (lacquer-coated, stuff like Brown Bear) exclusively for training? Thanks.

[orionz06]

I have no problems with bear, tula, or wolf, but I would suggest looking a little harder. My last order was a few cases of CCI aluminum case that was cheaper than any steel case I could find, at that time. If steel were cheaper I would have used it, but it was not.

[Kyle Reese]

I've had good luck with steel cased ammo in carbines and Glock 9mm handguns.

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk

[JV_]

My problems with that ammo is not the steel case, but the consistency of the charges. Some folks swear by it, but lately there have been some batches that sound more like a 357 SIG, not of 9mm.

[TGS]

Every person I've personally dealt with who has exuded the awesomeness that is steel cased ammo then proceeded to have quite a few malfunctions shooting the stuff.

Shop around, and you'll find brass cased ammunition that is just about as cheap, or even cheaper, and better quality overall. Like JV mentioned, it's not just the steel case that is an issue.....overall quality, such as consistency in powder charges, or how disgustingly dirty the powder is, should also factor in to the cost/performance value.

I find that ammotogo.com has consistently awesome deals on the ammo I want. Also, Cabelas will come out with some good sales once in a while.

[Default.mp3]

Thanks for the info, guys. My main concern with steel is mainly the possibility of kaboom-esque catastrophic failure. Stuff like failures to fire due to poor ammo quality doesn't bother me as much (more malfunction clearing practice), while I have been lead to believe that the accelerated wear on the extractor is a negligible concern. The main problems I have with AmmoToGo and Cabela's is that tax kills a lot of deals (used AmmoToGo quite a lot back when I was in KY). The best pricing I've seen looking around is http://www.sgammo.com/product/brown-bear/500rds-9mm-luger-brown-bear-115-gr-fmj-barnaul-9-mm after counting shipping. However, that CCI stuff that orionz06 talked about is pretty damn close to pricing as the steel, shipped, so for my next bulk buy it'll probably be that. Still, the information gleaned here is very helpful.

[BWT]

It's about all I use in rifles. I also don't really have the opportunity to shoot past 100 yards (much to my disappoint).

For cheap ammo, it's unbeatable. I realistically think, the ammo will do everything you expect it to within reason.

Just being straight forward, if shooting it an AR, buy a M16 Bore brush, and clean the gun every 300-500 rounds and scrub the chamber until you can see the chrome lining on the chamber, chamber (chrome lined chambers at least, maybe 2-3 twists), lubricate the gun well, and keep a cleaning rod in your range bag for the stuck case (You should never see one with that cleaning regimen, but, it certainly can't hurt to be on the cautious side).

I don't shoot it out of handguns, mostly because I either shoot rim-fires or handguns I intended to use for self-defense, also, the 1911 I carry is finicky enough. I'm going to experiment some once I replace it, because honestly, I have no basis in fact or experience to put that opinion in, that's just what I've heard pretty much, I haven't seen anything specifically.

It's cheap ammo, I've never seen a broken/bent/pre-emptively worn extractor despite the steel on steel casings talk versus steel on brass casings (let's have some honest discourse, has anyone here? I'm interested to know), and in the AR, it's really not a big deal, I can shoot honestly 6,000-8,000 rounds, and replace the extractor, spring, insert and o-ring for about $30. (I probably should replace the Bolt at that point anyway, maybe the carrier, but just saying).

Like most things just realize what you're buying, You're not going to get $.30-.35 brass cased heavier grain boat-tailed Hollow point projectile (5.56mm) with a cleaner burning powder, higher end primer (to promote the most consistent burn) performance from an $.18 steel cased polymer coated (.223 Rem), bi-metal jacket FMJ 55 gr bullet, with not as consistent powder or clean burning powder with probably a lower end primer.

But it's half the price, and it's FPS is fairly consistent, and for the type of shooting I do... it does everything I need it to.

You could compromise, Hornady does make steel cased .223 Rem, now you just don't know what to think. :D

http://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/hornady-steel-match/

Ultimately it's up to the shooter.

[jumpthestack]

I had fairly regular stuck cases in my AR with Wolf steel cased ammo, which had to be knocked out with a cleaning rod. No problems with brass. I later found out that the barrel was marked 5.56, but it was really a .223 on the tight side even for .223.

[BWT]

I had fairly regular stuck cases in my AR with Wolf steel cased ammo, which had to be knocked out with a cleaning rod. No problems with brass. I later found out that the barrel was marked 5.56, but it was really a .223 on the tight side even for .223.

Forgot to mention, a 5.56mm chamber is an absolute necessity.

Heck you can have stuck 5.56mm brass casings in .223 Rem chambers.