New comer and soon to buy first revolver.

[CBOLMD]

Hello all, I just found this forum on google. I am turning 21 on March 3rd, for my birthday I am treating myself to a concealed weapons permit for my dad and I (suprise for him) and am going to order two revolvers, one with his initials and one with mine, and an engraving on both that says like father like son. I am trying to decide and I think I would be best suited for concealed carry with a .45. (Opinions are welcome)!! We both love revolvers and it is one gun neither of us have owned personally. I'm mostly using my tax return, so my budget is going to be about a thousand for the pair of pistols, save the engraving. What my question is, Is what in any of your opinions would be the most reliable revolver, around a $500 dollar price range. Something that will last, that I can give to my son, but with some class and maybe old school so my dad can appreciate it. Please Input-
Chris from the Glades

[CBOLMD]

Also, I really enjoy shooting a 357, but not sure if such a large caliber would be a good concealed carry option.

[TheNewbie]

Others will be able to help more than I, but with your budget I would focus more on a quality revolver vs engraving. Engraving is something you can always get done later, but purchasing cheap now and quality later gets expensive. Ask me how I know....

A lot of people seem to really like the Ruger GP 100s, and they should fit in your price range. Lots of good used S&W revolvers out there too.

Like I said, someone will be along in a bit to help you out better than I can.

[Robinson]

A .45 caliber revolver will be big and heavy for concealed carry, but it can be managed with the right gear as long as you are willing to dress around the gun. You will be looking at the N Frame guns from S&W or a Redhawk from Ruger most likely.

If you bring .357Mag/.38 Special into the mix then your options expand considerably. I regularly carry a full-size revolver concealed and it's not overly difficult.

Within your stated budget, you are probably going to need to look for a used gun. Add just a little more and you can get into a new Ruger GP100 or SP101. Add a couple hundred more and you can get into a new S&W. I guess if you want to consider smaller guns (snub-nosed J Frames for example) then maybe you can get into a new revolver for less money.

Every option (including brand selection) has its own pros and cons so I suggest making a list of your priorities and preferences and use that as a starting point for your ultimate selection. Try to get educated on the different offerings and then narrow things down until you come up with the most suitable choice for your wants/needs.

Some things to consider:

Frame size/weight (how big the gun is)
Caliber
Capacity (number of rounds)
Barrel length
Manufacturer
Grip options
Sights (fixed? adjustable? tritium?)
Condition (new, like-new, well used, beat up, etc...)
Holster availability

[Bigghoss]

Ruger is the least expensive quality revolver I know of. Still going to cost more than a grand for a pair unless you find a couple nice used ones or go for the LCR.

[Clay]

Two no-lock S&W 442's would be the most practical, IMHO. Put factory Dymandwood grips on 'em for an old school look.

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/70712/S%26W+M442+5RD+38SP+%2BP+1.87%22+wo+Internal+Lock

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/199276/smith-and-wesson-factory-grips-s-and-w-j-frame-round-butt-checkered-dymondwood?cm_vc=ProductFinding

J frame's are guns you can carry every day, they're fun to shoot with wadcutters, reliable, and S&W has a lifetime warranty. Much better than buying a couple of boat anchors that'll sit in a safe. You have to be pretty dedicated to carry a large frame revolver. There's a reason the J frame Smith outsells every other revolver made, and has for some time.

[GK17]

Two no-lock S&W 442's would be the most practical, IMHO. Put factory Dymandwood grips on 'em for an old school look.

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/70712/S%26W+M442+5RD+38SP+%2BP+1.87%22+wo+Internal+Lock


http://www.midwayusa.com/product/199276/smith-and-wesson-factory-grips-s-and-w-j-frame-round-butt-checkered-dymondwood?cm_vc=ProductFinding

J frame's are guns you can carry every day, they're fun to shoot with wadcutters, reliable, and S&W has a lifetime warranty. Much better than buying a couple of boat anchors that'll sit in a safe. You have to be pretty dedicated to carry a large frame revolver. There's a reason the J frame Smith outsells every other revolver made, and has for some time.

^^^What he said^^^

[David Armstrong]

Another plug for the S&W J-frame. Not the first choice for a primary for a lot of people, but probably the most common choice for a secondary out there.

[Wheeler]

A J frame or similarly sized gun is excellent for carry but not necessarily the best choice as a first ccw, especially if one has limited experience with revolvers in general.

[Frank R]

I'd recommend looking at a couple of Ruger revolvers. Both solid, reliable guns.

. SP-101 .357/.38 3" barrel.

. LCR .38 spl +P 3" barrel.

[Clay]

A J frame or similarly sized gun is excellent for carry but not necessarily the best choice as a first ccw, especially if one has limited experience with revolvers in general.

Very true, but it's what's being carried by more folks than just about anything else. Probably more J frames and LCP's being carried by civilians than all the service sized guns put together.

[David Armstrong]

Very true, but it's what's being carried by more folks than just about anything else. Probably more J frames and LCP's being carried by civilians than all the service sized guns put together.
It's been a while, but I remmeber an ASLET conference (maybe 2002??) where I was sitting around with a number of well-known firearms trainers discussing guns. While there was a bit of disagreement on the big gun, everyone at the table owned up to using a J-frame as their second gun, with most going for the Airweight.

[WDW]

I'd get two no lock 442's or 642's & call it a day. They really are hard to beat.

[CBOLMD]

Thank you for all the replies and shared knowledge..I guess because of my age, I would be considered inexperienced with a revolver, but I have carried and shot plenty. As for my choice I can't say I've decided as I didn't recieve my tax return yet, but I am liking the 642 the more I look at it. I know I was talking about a budget..but what do you guys think about this? It made me grin..http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product4_750001_750051_765472_-1____ProductDisplayErrorView_N

[CBOLMD]

Also, I prefer a J frame, it feels more comfortable in my hand. K frames are what I would call classy, I'd bring it on a date.

[Wheeler]

Also, I prefer a J frame, it feels more comfortable in my hand. K frames are what I would call classy, I'd bring it on a date.

That would have been good info to include in the original post...
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[GK17]

Gotta' ask......are revolvers going to be your primary EDC weapons or BUGs? Grew up in that particular swamp myself. The salties and gators are on the gentle side of the local populace.

[CBOLMD]

Gotta' ask......are revolvers going to be your primary EDC weapons or BUGs? Grew up in that particular swamp myself. The salties and gators are on the gentle side of the local populace.

I'm a local myself..we're not all that bad. I would carry it as well as my pistol, I just enjoy shooting revolvers, and I think it would be a nice option from time to time..also, I don't think my Dad has even owned a revolver..

[GK17]

Reason I asked was that the experts here(Which I am not!) can give you a lot more focused advice if they know you're talking about a BUG. Living in S. FL. also makes a difference in concealed carry options.

[GlockTard]

Stick with 38/357, best of everything! Stay away from Ruger CRAP! The older S&W and Colt revolvers are Top Notch. Don't get lured into snubbies, they suck for ANYTHING you're going to do with them. You can conceal 4"bbl six shot as easy as snub. Cylinder's the determining factor for revolver concealment. I've owned and shot revolvers for 40+yrs, I'm not steering you wrong here!

[WDW]

Stick with 38/357, best of everything! Stay away from Ruger CRAP! The older S&W and Colt revolvers are Top Notch. Don't get lured into snubbies, they suck for ANYTHING you're going to do with them. You can conceal 4"bbl six shot as easy as snub. Cylinder's the determining factor for revolver concealment. I've owned and shot revolvers for 40+yrs, I'm not steering you wrong here!

I haven't seen a single post this full of wrong in a loooong time! "Stay away from snubbies"???? Pretty sure a 4" revolver won't fit in a pocket or on an ankle.

[Chuck Haggard]

Do you have an specifics with regard to this recommendation that you can share?

I do, including;

A 4" stainless Security Six that I carried on duty for several years, bought new in 1982, has gone through tens of thousands of full house 125gr magnum loads, and more than a few .38 specials, with zero issues noted, something that the model 66s and 686s of my day were not up to.

Speed Six that fired about half that amount of ammo, no issues, no wear noted.

GP100 that went through numerous 125gr-158gr magun loads, sold it to nyeti because he wanted a blue 3" gun

Ruger LCR .22lr, currently through a couple of thousand rounds, no issues, accurate, well built, nice trigger, sights shoot very well to POA

[Chuck Haggard]

Chuck, how to you like that .22 LCR compared to a 43C?

When I get more rounds through the 43C I'll be able to give you a better opinion. The 43 is certainly lighter, and thus would likely make a better ankle gun, they seem to be about equal in function, my 43C has a decent trigger, smooth, but heavier than the LCR

[David Armstrong]

Stick with 38/357, best of everything! Stay away from Ruger CRAP! The older S&W and Colt revolvers are Top Notch. Don't get lured into snubbies, they suck for ANYTHING you're going to do with them. You can conceal 4"bbl six shot as easy as snub. Cylinder's the determining factor for revolver concealment. I've owned and shot revolvers for 40+yrs, I'm not steering you wrong here!
Interesting how sometimes the strongest opinions are the least accurate opinions. Somebody needs to do a study!

[Hizzie]

Stick with 38/357, best of everything! Stay away from Ruger CRAP! The older S&W and Colt revolvers are Top Notch. Don't get lured into snubbies, they suck for ANYTHING you're going to do with them. You can conceal 4"bbl six shot as easy as snub. Cylinder's the determining factor for revolver concealment. I've owned and shot revolvers for 40+yrs, I'm not steering you wrong here!

I can run a clean Turn n Burn with a 2.25" SP101 loaded with Federal 125gr magnum. I'm working on the same feat with a Ruger 2.5" 44 magnum. Snubbies dont suck.

[Wheeler]

Stick with 38/357, best of everything! Stay away from Ruger CRAP! The older S&W and Colt revolvers are Top Notch. Don't get lured into snubbies, they suck for ANYTHING you're going to do with them. You can conceal 4"bbl six shot as easy as snub. Cylinder's the determining factor for revolver concealment. I've owned and shot revolvers for 40+yrs, I'm not steering you wrong here!
My Ruger LCR has about 600 rounds of +P 38 through it so far. I've had zero issues with it so far. As a matter of fact, it will handle loads that my no dash model 36 will not. I can also make 20 yard A zone hits on a USPSA target with my LCR.

Snubs are harder to shoot than a full sized revolver because of the typically smaller grip, the trigger is more difficult to manipulate and the sights are more rudimentary and of course have a much shorter radius. Shooting one well requires honest effort on the part of the shooter.
I've only owned and shot revolver for 25 years and shot revolvers that belonged to my dad for another 15, but I've run around 100000 rounds through various types over the years. Not sure if that qualifies me to voice an opinion or not.

[RevolverRob]

I am 2000 rounds of full bore 125-158 grain magnum, another 500 of .38 +P, and 3500 rounds of standard pressure .38 into my 4" fixed sight GP100. I think I finally got it broken in about round 5000...Broken down? Not even close.

Last time I was at a revolver class, the guy next to me was using a 4" Model 19 that started to spit lead off the forcing cone about half-way through day one (of three days). After I caught a piece of shrapnel across the back of my hand, we took the gun down and inspected it. He'd bought it new in the mid-80s and estimated about 8,000 rounds through it, about half of those were magnums. He definitely shot that K-Frame out of time. Don't get me wrong, 4k of full bore magnum is nothing to sneeze at. But I'm at half that in my GP100 and I suspect I'll be at 16k before the GP needs service work, let alone serious work. If it were a Colt (Python, New Service, whatever), I doubt it would make it to 2500 full bore magnums before needing service work or maybe even more serious work.

I love my Colts, I love my Smiths, I love my Rugers. When I need to strap on a gun and feel confident in it and my abilities? The GP100 gets the nod, every single time.

-Rob

[Wheeler]

I am 2000 rounds of full bore 125-158 grain magnum, another 500 of .38 +P, and 3500 rounds of standard pressure .38 into my 4" fixed sight GP100. I think I finally got it broken in about round 5000...Broken down? Not even close.

Last time I was at a revolver class, the guy next to me was using a 4" Model 19 that started to spit lead off the forcing cone about half-way through day one (of three days). After I caught a piece of shrapnel across the back of my hand, we took the gun down and inspected it. He'd bought it new in the mid-80s and estimated about 8,000 rounds through it, about half of those were magnums. He definitely shot that K-Frame out of time. Don't get me wrong, 4k of full bore magnum is nothing to sneeze at. But I'm at half that in my GP100 and I suspect I'll be at 16k before the GP needs service work, let alone serious work. If it were a Colt (Python, New Service, whatever), I doubt it would make it to 2500 full bore magnums before needing service work or maybe even more serious work.

I love my Colts, I love my Smiths, I love my Rugers. When I need to strap on a gun and feel confident in it and my abilities? The GP100 gets the nod, every single time.

-Rob
To be fair, a comparison between the ability of a GP frame Ruger and any K frame Smith to digest magnums is not a apples to apples scenario.

[RevolverRob]

To be fair, a comparison between the ability of a GP frame Ruger and any K frame Smith to digest magnums is not a apples to apples scenario.

I know the usual comparison for a GP100 is an L-frame. However, fixed sight, taper barrel GP100s, straight up fit in holsters for magnum K-frames with heavy barrels. The barrel profile of the Match Champion for instance will show a gun that is only marginally larger than 4" heavy barrel K-frame and not as big as an L.

Of course I recognize that you mean durability comparisons. The K-frame not being designed to fire high volume of magnums, versus the GP100 and L-frames that were designed that way. I agree, not an apples to apples comparison. But I'd still take a GP100 to be running long after a 686 goes down.

[Robinson]

To me, K Frames are the ideal platform for launching .38Spl+P ammunition -- even those capable of firing magnums. I mostly shoot .38Spl+P in my L Frames too since for me they are a better choice than magnums for defensive use. But I feel pretty certain it would take a lot of magnums to wear out a 586/686. Granted, the GP100 may be stronger yet.

[Wheeler]

I know the usual comparison for a GP100 is an L-frame. However, fixed sight, taper barrel GP100s, straight up fit in holsters for magnum K-frames with heavy barrels. The barrel profile of the Match Champion for instance will show a gun that is only marginally larger than 4" heavy barrel K-frame and not as big as an L.

Of course I recognize that you mean durability comparisons. The K-frame not being designed to fire high volume of magnums, versus the GP100 and L-frames that were designed that way. I agree, not an apples to apples comparison. But I'd still take a GP100 to be running long after a 686 goes down.

The forcing cone on a GP series is slightly larger than that of an L frame if I recollect correctly. They cylinders of the GP series and the L frame are the same size. Depending on the holster and how closely it's formed I can fit an L frame in some of my K frame holster and have relegated one of my L frame holsters for an N frame.

I don't disagree that the GP is a more robust gun than the L frame. It took me a long time to admit that publicly. :)

[Hizzie]

I spent a great deal quality time with a 681PC and the GP100. IMHO they are pretty close in overall size but differ greatly in balance due to the Ruger grip stud. To me, the GP handles recoil much better.

If you spend any amount of time shooting a Ruger Alaskan the GP100 will quickly start feeling svelte.

[Lost River]

Stick with 38/357, best of everything! Stay away from Ruger CRAP! The older S&W and Colt revolvers are Top Notch. Don't get lured into snubbies, they suck for ANYTHING you're going to do with them. You can conceal 4"bbl six shot as easy as snub. Cylinder's the determining factor for revolver concealment. I've owned and shot revolvers for 40+yrs, I'm not steering you wrong here!

I'm not going to pig pile, in regards to Rugers being "crap". Many knowledgeable posters have covered that quite well. I will simply say that my experience has shown them to be extremely durable.

Snubbies are a whole other subject. They excel in their intended role. There is a longer learning curve with them, and they require some dedication to diligent practice, concentrating on fundamentals, to maximize their performance.

Last month during a qual, I asked if I could run a couple cylinder fills onto my 50 yard target. 10 for 10 landed in the torso. It can be done, it's just not optimal.

The one biggest upgrade that I can wholeheartedly recommend is a set of crimson trace laser grips. For low light shooting, they are a substantial advantage. Being able to see your wobble, as well as recognizing improper trigger manipulation, by watching the dot as you complete a DA pull is very valuable, in regards to direct feedback.

While I cannot recommend the J Frame as a primary, it's a great BUG, as well as a great "always gun". Many very dedicated guy's who carry a primary such as a Glock or 1911, normally also have a J Frame somewhere on their person.

Given the OPs price range, options a a bit limited. A 3" K frame would be a top choice. The three inch gun will give a person a full length ejector rod, and the ability to fully eject empty mag length brass, versus a 2.5", which will not. I would look for one with a fully shrouded ejector rod as well, if possible, though not absolutely necessary.

Personally I'm a fan of larger bore wheel guns for GP use, but a 3" K frame would be very practical, not to mention more comfortable to carry. Add CT grips, and a sturdy belt/holster combo and call it done.