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KeeFus
02-09-2015, 05:59 AM
Shot one recently and really liked it so now I'm looking at buying a good used one. Never bought a revolver so what do I need to look for? Basically, the good, bad, and the ugly of this model.

Robinson
02-09-2015, 09:27 AM
Assuming it's in good condition, there's really nothing bad or ugly about the Model 66. It will balance nicely in the hand while providing enough weight up front because of the shrouded ejector.

I would check to make sure there is not excessive end shake with the cylinder, check the bore, make sure the cylinder rotates freely (use empty cases or dummy rounds if possible), and take a look at the forcing cone area. Unless the gun was abused or a whole bunch of 125gr magnum rounds were fired through it then it should be fine.

The current production Model 66 has a beefed up forcing cone and other changes.

jh9
02-09-2015, 09:44 AM
Shot one recently and really liked it so now I'm looking at buying a good used one. Never bought a revolver so what do I need to look for? Basically, the good, bad, and the ugly of this model.

Model specific to the magnum Ks: check the forcing cone (back of the barrel that's in front of the cylinder) and look for the crack at 6'o'clock. That's bad. You don't want that.

Other than that it's a S&W revolver. What I check:

no slop/movement in the yoke when the cylinder's closed
no (or not much) side-to-side play in the cylinder
no (or not much) front-to-back play in the cylinder*
not a whole lot of rotational play in the cylinder (always be some)
frame screws aren't buggered
timing's correct**
cylinder opens/closes without binding/hitching
cylinder gap isn't too narrow/big***

*- Less than .002". Just enough to notice it move when you push back on the cylinder.

**- slow DA pull: stop clicks into place at ~3/4 cock, hammer reaches full cock, hammer falls. If it clicks into place just before the hammer falls it's marginal. If it clicks into place after the hammer falls and you have to manually advance the cylinder it's bad. You don't want bad.

***- .004-6" if you take gauges; a sliver of daylight if you don't

I've been shooting and competing with S&W DA revolvers since before there was an IDPA (and we called USPSA IPSC, dammit) and I *still* run into gremlins that dont make any sense. I've got an open thread on the benos revolver forum demonstrating that. :-/ So take the above with the necessary grain of salt.

Also that list isn't exhaustive. Just the 30-second poke-and-prod I do when I'm looking at a revolver.

Trooper224
02-09-2015, 06:12 PM
Be aware that a non-dash Model 66 has a tendency to seize up as it heats up. Mine will fire about eighteen rounds of magnum ammo before the cylinder starts to stick. It's fine with .38 ammo. Later engineering changes eliminated that tendency.
http://m3.i.pbase.com/g5/64/521964/2/107284713.tjiRQBEU.jpg

LSP552
02-09-2015, 08:24 PM
I'm a big fan of the model 66, both 4" and 2/12". Things to look for were cover pretty well above.

KeeFus
02-09-2015, 08:35 PM
Thanks for the replies. I have never shot a "full size" service revolver before. I do shoot my 442 but that is obviously a lot smaller. I had about 15 minutes to finger bang it before shooting a 50 round BLET qualification course with it. Thing was smooth as butter and I shot quite well with it. I was also able to nail the reloads with the speed loader.

Needless to say it will be the next handgun I buy.

RoyGBiv
02-09-2015, 09:25 PM
Model specific to the magnum Ks: check the forcing cone (back of the barrel that's in front of the cylinder) and look for the crack at 6'o'clock. That's bad. You don't want that.

Other than that it's a S&W revolver. What I check:

no slop/movement in the yoke when the cylinder's closed
no (or not much) side-to-side play in the cylinder
no (or not much) front-to-back play in the cylinder*
not a whole lot of rotational play in the cylinder (always be some)
frame screws aren't buggered
timing's correct**
cylinder opens/closes without binding/hitching
cylinder gap isn't too narrow/big***

*- Less than .002". Just enough to notice it move when you push back on the cylinder.

**- slow DA pull: stop clicks into place at ~3/4 cock, hammer reaches full cock, hammer falls. If it clicks into place just before the hammer falls it's marginal. If it clicks into place after the hammer falls and you have to manually advance the cylinder it's bad. You don't want bad.

***- .004-6" if you take gauges; a sliver of daylight if you don't

I've been shooting and competing with S&W DA revolvers since before there was an IDPA (and we called USPSA IPSC, dammit) and I *still* run into gremlins that dont make any sense. I've got an open thread on the benos revolver forum demonstrating that. :-/ So take the above with the necessary grain of salt.

Also that list isn't exhaustive. Just the 30-second poke-and-prod I do when I'm looking at a revolver.

Thanks.!
A simple and clear checklist.
Much appreciated.
Saved.

Alpha Sierra
02-10-2015, 08:47 AM
I had about 15 minutes to finger bang it before shooting a 50 round BLET qualification course with it. Thing was smooth as butter and I shot quite well with it. I was also able to nail the reloads with the speed loader.

Needless to say it will be the next handgun I buy.
Luke, come to the Dark Side......

SWAT Lt.
02-10-2015, 06:54 PM
I'm a big fan of the model 66, both 4" and 2/12". Things to look for were cover pretty well above.

Me too. I love the model 66s, the older ones anyway, especially the ones with the 2.5 inch barrel. I know the 3 inch model 65 has the full length ejector rod, etc., but there is just something about the 66. I prefer the Pachmayr SK-C compact grips, reminds me of the old days. These days, I find myself shooting K Frames with 38+P much more often than the magnum rounds.

Drang
02-12-2015, 04:34 PM
Jim March's REVOLVER CHECKOUT (http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57816) is always a classic. Maybe dwnload the doc to your phone, and print out the one page summary at the end...

Al T.
02-13-2015, 06:29 AM
Dang, Drang beat me to Jim's checklist. ;)

KeeFus, if your in NC (IIRC), keep an eye on the police supply places like Lawmans and Dana Safety Supply. They get confiscated firearms from Departments, can find some good deals there.

KeeFus
02-13-2015, 11:34 AM
Dang, Drang beat me to Jim's checklist. ;)

KeeFus, if your in NC (IIRC), keep an eye on the police supply places like Lawmans and Dana Safety Supply. They get confiscated firearms from Departments, can find some good deals there.

Yeap, still in NC. I went to Lawmens in Raleigh last week but they had none. Im also searching the local forums.

Grizzly21
02-18-2015, 03:31 AM
Yeap, still in NC. I went to Lawmens in Raleigh last week but they had none. Im also searching the local forums.

I know where there is an early model 65 (fixed rear sight) at a reasonable price.

mag318
03-01-2015, 02:14 PM
This is my 1'st post on this forum and I look forward to posting many more. The Model 66 no dash they dash 4s are truly great revolvers, once S&W went to MIM parts and the dreaded lock the older precook examples became more sought after. I carried one for years as a duty gun before my department switched over to semi autos. One of my favorites are the 3" versions.

Dagga Boy
03-03-2015, 12:21 PM
Yes, a 3" 19 or 66 is on my list of things I "need" at some point.

Rack
03-05-2015, 01:04 AM
Be aware that a non-dash Model 66 has a tendency to seize up as it heats up. Mine will fire about eighteen rounds of magnum ammo before the cylinder starts to stick. It's fine with .38 ammo. Later engineering changes eliminated that tendency.
http://m3.i.pbase.com/g5/64/521964/2/107284713.tjiRQBEU.jpg

Trooper - what kind of sights are those on this gun?

Thanks.

jh9
03-05-2015, 06:04 AM
Trooper - what kind of sights are those on this gun?

Thanks.

I think they're meps

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/489909/meprolight-tru-dot-adjustable-sight-set-s-and-w-k-l-n-frame-with-red-insert-front-sight-steel-blue-tritium-green

Mike Pipes
03-05-2015, 10:37 AM
I think they're meps

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/489909/meprolight-tru-dot-adjustable-sight-set-s-and-w-k-l-n-frame-with-red-insert-front-sight-steel-blue-tritium-green

Thanks for that , just ordered a set......CYA