SLG
02-01-2015, 03:08 PM
Instead of continuing to derail Bill's 1911 thread (or maybe it's so egregious that in this case it's more like stop fanning the fire of the derailed train) I thought I'd start a new thread to talk about draw. Mod's, if you feel like cutting off the grip portion of the old thread and sticking it here, please have at it.
As Ernie Langdon has said, talking about this stuff can be hard to do. I much prefer to demo a draw or a grip, and then watch others do it. But this will have to do. My descriptions below all assume AIWB with a closed front garment, though standard IWB works the same way. Still closed front.
When you first go for the gun, and assuming no injuries or in-fight access kind of stuff, the support hand actually needs to move first, or at least at exactly the same time as the strong hand. My support hand clears the garment. Others prefer to use their strong hand to do so, but I am convinced that is slower. I also don't think the tactical gods will smite you for it. If I need to draw strong hand only, then I do so, no issue. Once the support hand has cleared the garment, it pins it up high near the sternum. The strong hand then descends on the backstrap of the gun and drives into the top of the backstrap, as deeply as possible. My thumb is flagged high regardless of pistol. This allows me to seamlessly transition from 1911's to Glocks/Sigs/Beretta's, whatever. As well as thumb-break holsters/ALS/SLS etc. The act of driving the hand down and into the backstrap of the gun pushes the gun slightly into the holster. This ensures that my grip is perfect and that I will not lose the gun. You lose a bit of speed this way, but the trade off is well worth it to me. I've seen more than one USPSA GM throw their gun and magazines at the ground while trying to draw. No thanks.
From that point, the gun come as straight up as possible, as high as possible without contorting myself. The muzzle then rotates towards the target and I drive the gun straight to the target.
As soon as the gun starts to move away from my sternum, my support hand slides in from the side and grips tightly. This is key. Too many people get a two handed grip on their gun much further into the press-out and this does not help your security or ability to break a fast, accurate shot. The support hand NEEDS to mate with the strong hand as soon as possible in the drawstroke.
This type of draw combined with the way I described gripping the gun, will go as far as possible to ensure you do not lose your gun. I am currently pulling 1 to 1.1 second draws with a Glock 23, and my splits with full power .40 are .17-.20. There are plenty of people faster than me, some who draw like I do, some who may draw differently. I believe that these techniques, combined with how I train at the range and off, give me the most on demand repeatable performance possible. Which is not to say that I'm not trying to get faster and better still.
As I mentioned before, this needs to be worked out in person, with critical feedback given, in order to get the best results.
As Ernie Langdon has said, talking about this stuff can be hard to do. I much prefer to demo a draw or a grip, and then watch others do it. But this will have to do. My descriptions below all assume AIWB with a closed front garment, though standard IWB works the same way. Still closed front.
When you first go for the gun, and assuming no injuries or in-fight access kind of stuff, the support hand actually needs to move first, or at least at exactly the same time as the strong hand. My support hand clears the garment. Others prefer to use their strong hand to do so, but I am convinced that is slower. I also don't think the tactical gods will smite you for it. If I need to draw strong hand only, then I do so, no issue. Once the support hand has cleared the garment, it pins it up high near the sternum. The strong hand then descends on the backstrap of the gun and drives into the top of the backstrap, as deeply as possible. My thumb is flagged high regardless of pistol. This allows me to seamlessly transition from 1911's to Glocks/Sigs/Beretta's, whatever. As well as thumb-break holsters/ALS/SLS etc. The act of driving the hand down and into the backstrap of the gun pushes the gun slightly into the holster. This ensures that my grip is perfect and that I will not lose the gun. You lose a bit of speed this way, but the trade off is well worth it to me. I've seen more than one USPSA GM throw their gun and magazines at the ground while trying to draw. No thanks.
From that point, the gun come as straight up as possible, as high as possible without contorting myself. The muzzle then rotates towards the target and I drive the gun straight to the target.
As soon as the gun starts to move away from my sternum, my support hand slides in from the side and grips tightly. This is key. Too many people get a two handed grip on their gun much further into the press-out and this does not help your security or ability to break a fast, accurate shot. The support hand NEEDS to mate with the strong hand as soon as possible in the drawstroke.
This type of draw combined with the way I described gripping the gun, will go as far as possible to ensure you do not lose your gun. I am currently pulling 1 to 1.1 second draws with a Glock 23, and my splits with full power .40 are .17-.20. There are plenty of people faster than me, some who draw like I do, some who may draw differently. I believe that these techniques, combined with how I train at the range and off, give me the most on demand repeatable performance possible. Which is not to say that I'm not trying to get faster and better still.
As I mentioned before, this needs to be worked out in person, with critical feedback given, in order to get the best results.