GLOCK front sight Jump

[psalms144.1]

Not sure if this belongs here, or in the gunsmith section. Here's my deal:

I've been struggling with accuracy woes with my Gen4 G19 for a while now. Nothing AWFUL, but I'm measurably and consistently less accurate with my G19 than my Gen4 G26, my Gen4 G23, or my G30S. So, I figured I needed to get back to basics and knuckle down with some dry fire drills. This is what I'm observing:

Whenever I press the trigger on my G19, the front sight "jumps" visibly. Sometimes straight up, sometimes up & left. When I say "jump," I mean it literally looks like a strong vibration snap off true. On occasion, I can see the rear end of the slide rising as I press through the trigger as well - but that's a rare event. The front sight jump, however, happens about 80% of the time. I've tried pressing the trigger straight through with a variety of finger positions, tried "prepping" to the "wall" and pressing through, tried a crush grip, tried a moderate grip, tried one hand strong/weak. I've tried all manners of stock and after market trigger components, including the standard Gen4 trigger & bar, 3rd Gen G17 smooth trigger & bar, dot connector, "-" connector, Ghost Evo ("-" equivalent, allegedly), standard trigger spring, NY1 trigger spring, standard striker spring, heavy duty striker spring. None of these part combinations will make the "jump" go away.

The strangest part is this - it only happens with the G19. All my other Glocks, the front sight is perfectly still if I do my part and don't smash the trigger. I'm a fairly experienced Glock shooter and firearms instructor, have smoked successfully through several "name" programs with other G19s in the past, and have never had the kind of accuracy woes I'm experiencing with this G19.

At this point, I'm open to any thoughts/comments/suggestions...

Thanks in advance!

Regards,

Kevin

[mizer67]

Maybe a dumb question, but have you checked your front sight to see if it's loose in the slot?

That would be my first mechanical item to check. Loctite in the slot hasn't worn out, Loctite's still on the set screw and the front sight's not moving around, etc.

[MDS]

I love a good mystery! ;)

Does the trigger feel different in this 19, compared to your other glox with the same trigger parts? Have you detail-stripped the upper to make sure nothing is stuck, like say the firing pin safety?

[psalms144.1]

Front sight is firmly in place with good loctite bond. Stripped the slide for a detail clean a week or two back, everything appears in good order.

It's unusual that, when the striker releases on this pistol, there's a distinctly different FEEL to the striker movement. The only thing I can equate it to is it feels like the gun is vibrating slightly when the striker releases - if that makes any sense. I'm wondering if I have an out of spec striker, or striker channel, or something...

[irascible_joe]

Front sight is firmly in place with good loctite bond. Stripped the slide for a detail clean a week or two back, everything appears in good order.

It's unusual that, when the striker releases on this pistol, there's a distinctly different FEEL to the striker movement. The only thing I can equate it to is it feels like the gun is vibrating slightly when the striker releases - if that makes any sense. I'm wondering if I have an out of spec striker, or striker channel, or something...

Is it possible that the firing pin safety is barely clearing or rubbing on the striker? You should be able to see finish wear around the safety cuts on the striker if that's the case.

[GNiner]

I had one G19 with a noticeable "twang" during dry fire (and much poorer accuracy than my other 5 G19s). I noticed that the end of the "T" on the trigger bar where it engages the stiker was VERY rough - it looked like the plating was poured over the edge like paint over the side of a paint can. It looked significantly worse than my other trigger bars. I polished it but couldn't get all of the roughness out of it. I also installed a reduced power striker spring, and between these two steps it cleared up a LOT of the "twang". I have other G19s for carry, so I didn't worry too much about the reduced power striker spring and in fact have experienced no light strikes to date (about 6,000 rounds on that spring).

[ToddG]

My first guess is variability of part smoothness/fit. Take the parts out of your G23 slide and put them in your G19 slide. Does the problem go away?

[P210-6]

Have you checked to see if the connector in your G19 is the "." (dot) connector made specifically for the 4th generation Glocks?



There was an issue way back when they came out where the trigger bar was rubbing hard on the side of the frame, and (simultaneously) had resistance build up thru the trigger break.

P210-6

[psalms144.1]

Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions. When I get off duty tonight I'll dissect my pistols, mix & match, and see what happens...

[psalms144.1]

OK, so, having dissected and interchanged the parts between my G19, G26, and G23, no combination of parts completely eliminates the sight movement I'm seeing. In fact, the lifting then dropping of the rear of the slide is becoming more pronounced the more I focus on it. At this point I'm back to all the parts in the pistols they originally came out of (I think!), and stumped.

As much as I dread it, based on my fiascos in the 2010-2012 time frame, I think I'm going to have to call GLOCK and see about a trip back to Smyrna... The raising/dropping of the rear of the slide just seems like there's something very out of tolerance going on in the frame/rails, and is something I've never seen before in all the Glocks I've ever owned.

[StraitR]

Excess over-travel can exacerbate sight bounce. This is pronounced in Glocks, for ME, and something I had to get used to. How does your 19's trigger compare to your 26 and 23? I'm thinking this isn't the issue seeing as you swapped around all the parts and nothing changed, but it's worth a second look at this point.

[irascible_joe]

OK, so, having dissected and interchanged the parts between my G19, G26, and G23, no combination of parts completely eliminates the sight movement I'm seeing. In fact, the lifting then dropping of the rear of the slide is becoming more pronounced the more I focus on it. At this point I'm back to all the parts in the pistols they originally came out of (I think!), and stumped.

As much as I dread it, based on my fiascos in the 2010-2012 time frame, I think I'm going to have to call GLOCK and see about a trip back to Smyrna... The raising/dropping of the rear of the slide just seems like there's something very out of tolerance going on in the frame/rails, and is something I've never seen before in all the Glocks I've ever owned.

I have at least two Glocks that have some noticeable vertical movement of the slide as the trigger is pulled. I just assumed it was normal due to the rather loose slide/frame fit of Glocks.

[Doublestack45]

Of the three gen4 19's I have, the one I can consistently reproduce the vertical "slide drop" effect on is a 2012 SYR prefix that is my range/dry fire gun. Applying very firm pressure concentrated on the front to back strap only is when this occurs. Not even sure it's possible to flex a frame by grip alone enough to cause this.

[Cheap Shot]

Not sure if this belongs here, or in the gunsmith section. Here's my deal:

I've been struggling with accuracy woes with my Gen4 G19 for a while now. Nothing AWFUL, but I'm measurably and consistently less accurate with my G19 than my Gen4 G26, my Gen4 G23, or my G30S. So, I figured I needed to get back to basics and knuckle down with some dry fire drills. This is what I'm observing:

Whenever I press the trigger on my G19, the front sight "jumps" visibly. Sometimes straight up, sometimes up & left. When I say "jump," I mean it literally looks like a strong vibration snap off true. On occasion, I can see the rear end of the slide rising as I press through the trigger as well - but that's a rare event. The front sight jump, however, happens about 80% of the time. I've tried pressing the trigger straight through with a variety of finger positions, tried "prepping" to the "wall" and pressing through, tried a crush grip, tried a moderate grip, tried one hand strong/weak. I've tried all manners of stock and after market trigger components, including the standard Gen4 trigger & bar, 3rd Gen G17 smooth trigger & bar, dot connector, "-" connector, Ghost Evo ("-" equivalent, allegedly), standard trigger spring, NY1 trigger spring, standard striker spring, heavy duty striker spring. None of these part combinations will make the "jump" go away.

The strangest part is this - it only happens with the G19. All my other Glocks, the front sight is perfectly still if I do my part and don't smash the trigger. I'm a fairly experienced Glock shooter and firearms instructor, have smoked successfully through several "name" programs with other G19s in the past, and have never had the kind of accuracy woes I'm experiencing with this G19.

At this point, I'm open to any thoughts/comments/suggestions...

Thanks in advance!

Regards,

Kevin

My 19 does this, and to a lesser extent so does my 34. Caveat, slow fire I can almost eliminate it, but trigger pulls at speed, fu get about it. I thought this problem was:

A. Typical a of a striker fired pistol
B. Me (crazy talk, I know)

no joke, I've got a 1911 (Valor, curse you PF and threads with pics) on order because after 4 + years of dry fire I still haven't been able to eliminate the "jump" you are referring to.

[Leroy]

Try dryfire with a dumby round in the chamber and see if there is a difference. It is not unusual for glock slides to move with an empty chamber in dryfire. What your describing does sounds more excessive than usual.

[psalms144.1]

StraitR - funny that you mention that, as the only combination that makes this "jump" go away is with an aftermarket connector that limits over travel. So, the question is, with a duty gun and not wanting to mess with after market "competition" parts, how do I decrease the overtravel?

Cheap Shot - sorry to hear you're suffering the same issue. When I get the chance to get GLOCK on the horn I'll let you know what they suggest

Leroy - I'm anal about dry firing only with snap caps (A Zooms, usually), so it's not an "empty chamber" issue in this case.

Thanks again!

[StraitR]

StraitR - funny that you mention that, as the only combination that makes this "jump" go away is with an aftermarket connector that limits over travel. So, the question is, with a duty gun and not wanting to mess with after market "competition" parts, how do I decrease the overtravel?

Cheap Shot - sorry to hear you're suffering the same issue. When I get the chance to get GLOCK on the horn I'll let you know what they suggest

Leroy - I'm anal about dry firing only with snap caps (A Zooms, usually), so it's not an "empty chamber" issue in this case.

Thanks again!

I had a 19 that came out of the box with the same issue. After changing to a G17 flat trigger (preference) and swapping out several factory "-" connecters, it felt comparable to my other Glocks, and those belonging to my little training circle of friends. Judging solely on that experience, my SWAG is tolerance stacking, culminated by a connecter on the long side of spec. That was around 5-6 years ago on a Gen 3, but my current Gen 4 19 still breaks earlier than my Gen 4 17 with same parts installed and similar approach to changing connecters. No mic was available for measurements, so I'll be interested to see if anyone chimes in who has measured connectors for length.

I wish I had a better answer for you, other than getting ahold of several examples of the stock factory connecter to try, but any suggestions on altering a duty weapon is out of my lane.

[LSP972]

I have eight Glocks here; two 26s, two 17s, and four 19s. They range from a new Gen4 G26 with less than 500 rounds, to the original G19 I purchased in 1992 that has in excess of 30K rounds through it. After reading this thread, I dry-fired each one while watching. They ALL showed this vertical rear-of-the-slide displacement, ranging from barely perceptible to "Why the hell haven't I noticed this before???"

And age/round count is apparently not a factor; the one that does it the worst is a police trade-in G17 I got last year, that was hardly fired at all… by the cop it was issued to, or me. But I have had HUNDREDS of different Glocks in my hand over the years, many of which were immediately function-checked to see whether it was the gun or the driver, and I confess to never having noticed this idiosyncrasy; or if did, I wasn't alarmed by it.

Thinking about it further, I now recall that the one Sig P320 I examined had very pronounced movement during dry fire; already not enthused with the pistol's looks and feel, I remember thinking "Well, so much for that."

My sample-of-one VP9 does it too… EVER so slightly, but its there. The two examples of the M&P I had, I just don't know about them, as I didn't have them long enough to see this (I was otherwise unimpressed with them).

This is weird. I wonder if it just a by-product of SFA? The next example of a Serbo-Croat Special that comes through the lab, I'll be sure to check it for this.

.

[StraitR]

It's also a linear byproduct of increasingly heavy triggers. The more force required to break the shot translates into more force transferred into the pistol when the trigger reaches the end of its travel.

ETA: Most, and quite often all, of this movement can be mitigated through grip. I just prefer less over travel.

[LSP972]

ETA: Most, and quite often all, of this movement can be mitigated through grip.


I just tried various grip "strengths" on one of my G17s (the one that moves a lot when you pull the trigger). No apparent change.

It seems pretty clear to me that the FPB extension on the trigger bar is what is causing the slide to move. How, exactly, will changing one's grip mitigate that?

.

[StraitR]

I just tried various grip "strengths" on one of my G17s (the one that moves a lot when you pull the trigger). No apparent change.

It seems pretty clear to me that the FPB extension on the trigger bar is what is causing the slide to move. How, exactly, will changing one's grip mitigate that?

.

You are talking about an entirely different root cause than I am, so in no way can I answer your question. By your statement, you're implying the firing pin block tab on the trigger bar is contacting the slide, is this correct? I fail to see how the two making contact post trigger break, could cause the sight/slide movement described by the OP.

Then again, I learn something new here everyday. Looking forward to your response.

ETA: To clarify my grip statement, I'm talking about movement found in light guns with heavy triggers and/or excessive overtravel. Good example: Keeping a 15 ounce J-Frame steady after pulling the factory 12lbs trigger takes strength and a proper grip. No amount of grip strength will stop movement caused by mechanical interference.

[psalms144.1]

Well, after some interesting "discussions" with Glock service, I just got a shipping label. Interestingly, now that I've got it back in all stock configuration (dot connector, Gen4 trigger bar, etc) the slide movement is MUCH more noticeable, but now the back of the slide is jumping up when the striker releases (as opposed to falling).

Hopefully they'll figure it out, and glad I have multiple Glocks in the safe so I can keep on keepin' on - even if the replacement is my lightly used G23...

More to follow

[Birdog]

I'm very interested to hear what they say.

[LSP972]

It's also a linear byproduct of increasingly heavy triggers. The more force required to break the shot translates into more force transferred into the pistol when the trigger reaches the end of its travel.

ETA: Most, and quite often all, of this movement can be mitigated through grip. I just prefer less over travel.

Sorry for the delay; forgot about this one.

You wrote that I was talking about another "root cause". Since we were discussing slide movement during trigger actuation, I assumed that was what YOU were talking about in the above quote. Yes, I'm talking about the trigger bar- actually, the part of the trigger bar that bears against the FPB- pressing upward on the FPB and/or the bottom of the slide and actually moving the slide upward to a degree.

Hence my question, how does one "mitigate it through grip"? Or are you talking about something else entirely?

.

[Surf]

How tight is the barrel lockup in barrel to locking block fitment? When you press down on the hood of the barrel is there a lot of movement in relation to your other Glocks?

With the Glock we are pretty much going from half cock with a reset trigger to full cock as we pull trigger until it releases. Most Glocks will have some type of noticeable movement when firing after the "twang" of the release of the striker. I have found that Glocks with a tighter lock up exhibit less movement which would equate to tighter fitment tolerances. You can try swapping barrels and / or slides or the complete upper assembly around and see if this shows any differences in relation to frame fitment and / or lockup. If you do see a difference it will probably be a result of varying tolerances between parts.

As you are noticing small parts combos and their fitment also produce varying results.

I will add that talking to a Glock rep on the phone will not do much. More than likely they will have no clue about the issues we are discussing here. The general rule is if they hit enough check blocks mail it in. Glock guts the pistols small parts replaces them, test fires and sends it back. You would need a real savvy technician at the factory who would #1 diagnose this or even notice it and #2 feel that it is something that needs fixing.

[JohnN]

How tight is the barrel lockup in barrel to locking block fitment? When you press down on the hood of the barrel is there a lot of movement in relation to your other Glocks?

With the Glock we are pretty much going from half cock with a reset trigger to full cock as we pull trigger until it releases. Most Glocks will have some type of noticeable movement when firing after the "twang" of the release of the striker. I have found that Glocks with a tighter lock up exhibit less movement which would equate to tighter fitment tolerances. You can try swapping barrels and / or slides or the complete upper assembly around and see if this shows any differences in relation to frame fitment and / or lockup. If you do see a difference it will probably be a result of varying tolerances between parts.

As you are noticing small parts combos and their fitment also produce varying results.

I will add that talking to a Glock rep on the phone will not do much. More than likely they will have no clue about the issues we are discussing here. The general rule is if they hit enough check blocks mail it in. Glock guts the pistols small parts replaces them, test fires and sends it back. You would need a real savvy technician at the factory who would #1 diagnose this or even notice it and #2 feel that it is something that needs fixing.
With that said, a match barrel would be the answer?

Sent from a SAMSUNG Galaxy Note 4.

[psalms144.1]

With that said, a match barrel would be the answer?KKM "drop in" barrel didn't help accuracy, and led to plenty of reliability issues that didn't exist before its installation or after it was removed...

[AtomicToaster]

Does the pistol exhibit the same problem with a magazine inserted? I'd guess there's less room for vertical slide movement with the follower/top round in the magazine pushing up against the slide.

[psalms144.1]

Does the pistol exhibit the same problem with a magazine inserted? I'd guess there's less room for vertical slide movement with the follower/top round in the magazine pushing up against the slide.Having a magazine loaded with snap caps reduces the amount of movement in the slide, but doesn't stop the movement.

[psalms144.1]

How tight is the barrel lockup in barrel to locking block fitment? When you press down on the hood of the barrel is there a lot of movement in relation to your other Glocks?Surf - barrel fit is "looser" on this G19 than any of my other pistols, but didn't seem radical. Concur on the thought that it will likely take several conversations with Glock to get this addressed, but, they know me at this point (I was one of the prominent folks with BTF and erratic ejection issues early in 2010, so I've had several face-to-face conversations with senior folks at Glock by this point...) Hope springs eternal.

Regards and stay safe!

Kevin

[psalms144.1]

Glock called today, my G19 with new extractor, ejector and other parts installed is on its way home. They stated that the movement of the slide during trigger press is "within tolerance" and that the Glock is a "combat handgun, not a target pistol."

I was ESPECIALLY thrilled when the tech called me out by emphasizing that a FEMALE armorer shot the gun, had no malfunctions, and shot 1.5" groups at 15 yards with a variety of ammunition. Thanks, Glock, you really are the best...

I was interested to note that they mentioned installing a shorter rear sight in order to zero the pistol at 25 yards, not sure what ammunition they used for that, or how I'll replicate it with my chosen night sight combination, but, it is a "combat handgun" after all, not a target pistol.

[JM Campbell]

"Cause we're Glock and we stinking despise you."

[psalms144.1]

"Cause we're Glock and we stinking despise you."New marketing slogan: "Glock, we're the new HK..."

[HCM]

I was ESPECIALLY thrilled when the tech called me out by emphasizing that a FEMALE armorer shot the gun, had no malfunctions, and shot 1.5" groups at 15 yards with a variety of ammunition. Thanks, Glock, you really are the best...


"GLOCK, because not only do you suck but you're a Girly man" :D

[HCM]

Kevin,

Any update on the performance of your 19 since it's return from the mother wheel ?

I was looking at a used G19 at my LGS today and the rear of the slide jumped up noticeably when the gun was dry fired. What was the SN prefix on yours ?

[Redhat]

Wow! So on the one hand it displays outstanding accuracy - 1.5" groups at 15 yds (assuming freehand) but on the other you shouldn't expect same - 'cause it's a combat handgun.

Do M&P's or Walthers have this same characteristic?

[LSP972]

I bought a brand new blue label G19 yesterday (for a specific purpose). Took it home for the ritual initial cleaning, shot it later in the evening.

The trigger is simply… atrocious. The pistol functions well, and accuracy is sufficient in struggled slow fire… I mean, that trigger is really bad. It is hard, gritty, and has a "catch" at the beginning of the pull. Mashing the trigger at speed produces acceptable groups; hey, like they said, its a "combat gun"…;)

There is no way I could live with this thing as is if I was going to use it. I'm told that a Gen3 trigger/trigger bar assembly smooths things up immediately, but since this pistol will serve as a disposable sentinel, now that I know it works I'm not disposed to expend any more effort on it. It will get cleaned and re-lubed sporadically, but if it ever gets shot again it will likely be in anger.

My point here is, I have had my hands on literally hundreds of Glocks; mainly 17s and 19s. Some were better than others, but I don't recall ANY of them (going back to 1990) as bad as this one.

All the more reason to be careful with my older ones, I suppose.

.

[LSP552]

I bought a brand new blue label G19 yesterday (for a specific purpose). Took it home for the ritual initial cleaning, shot it later in the evening.

The trigger is simply… atrocious. The pistol functions well, and accuracy is sufficient in struggled slow fire… I mean, that trigger is really bad. It is hard, gritty, and has a "catch" at the beginning of the pull. Mashing the trigger at speed produces acceptable groups; hey, like they said, its a "combat gun"…;)

There is no way I could live with this thing as is if I was going to use it. I'm told that a Gen3 trigger/trigger bar assembly smooths things up immediately, but since this pistol will serve as a disposable sentinel, now that I know it works I'm not disposed to expend any more effort on it. It will get cleaned and re-lubed sporadically, but if it ever gets shot again it will likely be in anger.

My point here is, I have had my hands on literally hundreds of Glocks; mainly 17s and 19s. Some were better than others, but I don't recall ANY of them (going back to 1990) as bad as this one.

All the more reason to be careful with my older ones, I suppose.

.

What's funny is the best trigger I've every felt on a out of the box Glock was a 4th gen 19……I should have bought it!

No argument from me that 3rd gens have "in general" better triggers. I'll say the trigger on my 4th gen 26 isn't any worse than a typical 3rd gen Glock. You should do the 4.5 lb. connector, some polish, and swapping some parts around thing……Because Science.

[LSP972]

Yeah, one problem with these combat tupperware pistols is there is no precision to speak of in the ignition linkage, in stock form. HKs aren't any better. The Fickle Finger of Fate did its thing on this one, and moved on. I was unlucky enough to be the end-user. Remember R.S. 13:69?:)

Nah, I'm gonna GI it, lube & load, and stick it in its stash point. If I have to grab it, things have gotten REALLY bad, and I doubt I'll be concerned about a stiff, gritty trigger pull.

.

[Jeep]

Yeah, one problem with these combat tupperware pistols is there is no precision to speak of in the ignition linkage, in stock form. HKs aren't any better. The Fickle Finger of Fate did its thing on this one, and moved on. I was unlucky enough to be the end-user. Remember R.S. 13:69?:)

Nah, I'm gonna GI it, lube & load, and stick it in its stash point. If I have to grab it, things have gotten REALLY bad, and I doubt I'll be concerned about a stiff, gritty trigger pull.


.

My solution is to get used Gen 2's, clean them up and replace the springs. I have a nice Gen 4 G19, but I have shot some with truly awful triggers. I think overall the G-17's are doing better.

[LSP972]

My solution is to get used Gen 2's, clean them up and replace the springs.

That was my first inclination. But the good-condition Gen 2s I've seen have been as much, or more, than a NIB blue label gun. And remember, I needed a disposable (as in, don't care if I lose it, etc.) piece, not a classic shooter.

After I get done with a few projects I've been putting off, I may indeed try a bit of clean-up on this trigger. I've got the Gen3 trigger, OEM minus connector, etc. already in my parts stash.


.

[psalms144.1]

Kevin,

Any update on the performance of your 19 since it's return from the mother wheel ?

I was looking at a used G19 at my LGS today and the rear of the slide jumped up noticeably when the gun was dry fired. What was the SN prefix on yours ?Sorry, haven't been to the range yet, been dealing with major health issues on the part of my Mom. Mine is a TCE serial number, I got it in 2012 (late), should have been one of the "fixed" ones...

[psalms144.1]

Wow! So on the one hand it displays outstanding accuracy - 1.5" groups at 15 yds (assuming freehand) but on the other you shouldn't expect same - 'cause it's a combat handgun. Yeah, I interpreted the conversation this way:

1. I suck, because a girl can shoot great groups with my pistol at 15 yards
2. Glocks aren't supposed to shoot well at 25 yards

Sorry if I sound sour, just SO DARNED TIRED of screwing with Glock. I see a P320 in my future, unless HK brings a "compact" VP9 to market soon...

[LSP972]

I see a P320 in my future, unless HK brings a "compact" VP9 to market soon...


I feel your pain… but have you handled a P320 yet? To me, at least, its quite a bit bigger than a comparable Glock. That's my subjective opinion, of course, gleaned from a side-by-side comparison in the gun store. And its easy to say, when my Glocks are working. If I had unresolved issues that weren't my fault, I'd be looking at alternate brands too.

A VP9 Compact will tempt me mightily, as well. But I wouldn't hold my breath. HK has already said, enough times to take it to the bank, that the next "version" will be a VP40… and you can thank Big Army and the MHS for that. I feel safe in saying that HK is well aware of the need/desire for a compact 9; the mystery is, WHEN will they get around to it? The firm is in deep financial straits; some say unrecoverable straits. We'll see what we shall see.

In the meantime, I hope you get your situation sorted out.

.

[psalms144.1]

LSP - I've handled the FS P320, and I expected it to be "biggish." It was. For ME, and the way I carry, grip length is the most important factor in concealment. If the P320's grip is wide AND long, it'll probably be a problem for me...

[HCM]

Kevin,

Maybe I've been shooting 2 to 9's too long but if you get the chance check out the 320 compact. It felt and pointed out much better for me then the full-size 320 despite my Shrek like hands and general preference for full-size guns.

On another note, I saw PWS is releasing a replacement Glock slide which they claim improves the trigger pull of the clock. I think it's an interesting solution, Addressing trigger pull issues via the slide and striker and instead of the trigger assembly. It also brought this thread to mind. Maybe this can address your G19 from hell?

[HCM]

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2015/01/jeremy-s/pws-enhanced-duty-slide-for-glock/

Link would help