Glock trigger setups

[Clay]

I've been running Glocks since about 1997, and a pair of Glock 23's were my only pistols for a few years in which I took several pistol classes around 2000-2004. I've owned ten Glocks over the years, and currently carry a Gen 3 Glock 21, Gen 4 G19 and a Gen 3 G26. I say this just to point out that I am familiar with Glocks and have had professional instruction.

One thing I have noticed is that every Glock trigger is different, and some experimentation and polishing normally goes a long way.

Most of the time I run the standard factory trigger setup, although I have tried all the different OEM setups such as the minus connector and NY1 spring, etc.. One thing I haven't done is played with different springs or aftermarket parts, other than one Lone Wolf connector that wasn't for me. I normally polish the connector and trigger bar with Flitz, and use TW-25B grease, which helps a lot.

I have ordered a ZEVTech V4 Race connector and extra power trigger spring to play with in my Gen 4 G19, which has a pretty lousy trigger. I did install a smooth OEM trigger bar already.

Anyone have any experience with the Glockworx or Ghost stuff? Has the controversial Skimmer trigger gained any headway? Anyone try the Taran Tactical stuff? What Glock trigger setup is everyone using?

[GJM]

I believe there is a lot more going on, that influences how a Glock trigger feels, than just the trigger parts. Yesterday, I took a Glocktriggers.com Guardian trigger assembly out of a late model Gen 3 17, installed it in a "K" prefix Gen 3, and it felt completely different (better). I am almost to the point, that I feel like the variation in individual Glock pistols is as or more important than the trigger components in determining whether you end up with a good Glock trigger.

I have used stock, dot, minus, Glocktriggers.com, Vanek and Taran Tactical. They all have plusses and minuses, depending upon what you are trying to accomplish. Firing pin spring weight makes as much or more difference than the trigger kit in trying to get a light trigger in a game gun. Most common solution is to just stick a minus in, and call it done.

[45dotACP]

Most common solution is to just stick a minus in, and call it done.

Thread.

But in all seriousness, I tried the whole "play around with different connectors." I found it to be considerably more frustrating and time consuming than performing trigger work on my 1911. I just called it quits and put a Lone Wolf connector in.

I even polished a trigger bar once. It became the most horrible trigger pull I have felt in the history of ever and I wound up buying a new trigger bar and calling it quits. It was probably 4lbs, but after maybe 50 trigger pulls, the weight increased to easily 12lbs.

Not the answer you were likely looking for, but at the end of it all when I remembered that there are GM level shooters using minus connectors or even just stock connectors, maybe the best way to buy better shooting skill is to buy more ammo or handloading components.

[GJM]

The Glocktriggers guy told me he would never consider anything but an OEM connector in a Glock used for carry. Not long later, TLG broke his Lone Wolf connector. I installed some, looking for "roll." I pulled them all, put OEM in, and never looked back.

[Jeep]

The Glocktriggers guy told me he would never consider anything but an OEM connector in a Glock used for carry. Not long later, TLG broke his Lone Wolf connector. I installed some, looking for "roll." I pulled them all, put OEM in, and never looked back.

I've become convinced that with Glocks, OEM is the only way to go for pretty much anything but sights. For a target gun, a (-) connector makes a lot of sense. And personally I like a NY1 with a (-) connector for a carry gun (I'd prefer a Glock-installed thumb safety but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon). Otherwise, the only non-Glock operating part I'm willing to use is an Apex extractor, and I only will use those when the Glock extractors aren't doing the job. For whatever reason, Glocks seem to work best with OEM parts.

[jlw]

I'll say up front that I am affiliated with GlockTriggers.com. I do think the polishing speeds a trigger well on to where it needs to be. I will agree with GJM that it is more than just the trigger components. I think nuances in the frame construction also come into play as I have moved all of the trigger parts from one frame to another and gotten slightly different feels.

[JBP55]

Polishing the internals and installing a V4 connector is a decent trigger. I do not normally use the 6.0# trigger springs in Gen 4 Glocks because it may cause trigger reset issues. The 6.0# trigger spring will reduce the trigger pull approximately 4.0 Oz. As stated above the firing pin spring can make a big difference.
The 4.0# spring should only be used in a range gun and changed fairly often in order to prevent light strikes unless you are using federal primers or an extended firing pin. The 4.5# is quite reliable in a stock Glock when changed every 10,000 rounds. Same for the 5.0# spring. It varies from spring to spring but the trigger pull will be reduced approximately 5.0 Oz. with a 5.0# spring, 10.0 Oz. with a 4.5# spring and 15.0 Oz. with a 4.0# spring. I have used many springs but the numbers above are for Wolff springs.
The pull weight of a Zev. 2.0# spring is roughly the same as a Wolff 4.0# spring and the Zev. 3.0# spring is roughly the same as a Wolff 4.5# spring.
Vanek, DK triggers, Johnny Glocks and Glockworx as well as others make good competition triggers.
I have tried the TTI and Ghost kits but they do not equal the four complete trigger kits above.

[JHC]

I've become convinced that with Glocks, OEM is the only way to go for pretty much anything but sights. For a target gun, a (-) connector makes a lot of sense. And personally I like a NY1 with a (-) connector for a carry gun (I'd prefer a Glock-installed thumb safety but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon). Otherwise, the only non-Glock operating part I'm willing to use is an Apex extractor, and I only will use those when the Glock extractors aren't doing the job. For whatever reason, Glocks seem to work best with OEM parts.

I recently, finally got a trigger scale and was fascinated to see that all of my Gen 3's with a minus connector come in around 5.5 lbs (yet they all feel a little different). My friends stock 19 with the standard connector, 6.5 lbs.

[JBP55]

I recently, finally got a trigger scale and was fascinated to see that all of my Gen 3's with a minus connector come in around 5.5 lbs (yet they all feel a little different). My friends stock 19 with the standard connector, 6.5 lbs.

Almost all Glocks have a heavier trigger pull weight than the number on the box 4.5# or 5.5#.

[HopetonBrown]

I have a Taran Butler Glock and I love it. Have taken it through classes with Pannone and Proctor without issue. It's the "RTG" package on his website.

[SAWBONES]

I even polished a trigger bar once. It became the most horrible trigger pull I have felt in the history of ever and I wound up buying a new trigger bar and calling it quits. It was probably 4lbs, but after maybe 50 trigger pulls, the weight increased to easily 12lbs.


I find that inexplicable.
I'd guess there must have been something unusual about the trigger bar that gave the trouble with your particular setup.

I've put Glock OEM "-" connectors in all ten of the Glocks I've owned, while either keeping the stock striker spring or substituting a Wolff standard Glock striker spring, and preferring the standard coil trigger return spring to either of the the "NY" trigger return springs, along with gently polishing all the pertinent contact surfaces (at trigger bar to connector ramp, at cruciform to striker lug, and at trigger bar extension to drop safety plunger), with the result that all these guns have had measured trigger pulls in the range of 4.0-5.0 lb., and quite easily manageable.

All the guns in question above are or have been CCW or home defense guns, and I've accordingly not wished to install any "tricky" aftermarket trigger modules or parts, so I have no experience with the various newer types of trigger setups mentioned by the OP.

[Clay]

I used to be solidly in the "only OEM Glock parts in a carry pistol" camp, but after ordering quite a few spare parts over the years, I can say that there is as almost as much variance in Glock OEM parts as there is in aftermarket stuff that I've seen for other platforms. Glock must have a lot of different vendors making stuff for them. I've ordered four Glock OEM minus connectors from a very good source, selling only genuine OEM parts, and all four of them were a little different.

I'm certainly willing to play around with aftermarket stuff, and if it works, use it in a carry pistol.

[pangloss]

there is as almost as much variance in Glock OEM parts as there is in aftermarket stuff that I've seen for other platforms

I think the tolerances in the Glock parts are pretty loose. A friend of mine bought a G23 and a G19 within a couple of months of each other, so both pistols were made around the same time. One of them had the worst trigger pull I've ever felt on a Glock and the other on was quite good. In the pistol with the bad trigger pull, the end of the trigger bar that pushes against the connector was very rough. Flitz and a felt wheel did very little to improve it. If it'd been my pistol, I would have swapped the trigger bar for a new OEM part. Likewise, an aftermarket part would have greatly improved the trigger pull in one of those pistols and would have yielded much less benefit in the other.

I have a Ghost connector in one pistol and also one of the titanium safety plungers. The "titanium" plungers show wear much faster than OEM parts and don't make much difference on the trigger pull. I've been pleased with the Ghost connector, but I'm not sure it gets me anything more than a dot or minus connector would.

[Jeep]

I recently, finally got a trigger scale and was fascinated to see that all of my Gen 3's with a minus connector come in around 5.5 lbs (yet they all feel a little different). My friends stock 19 with the standard connector, 6.5 lbs.

Where do you measure the pull on the trigger? I find that if I measure at the tip of the trigger I get a very light measurement; a third of the way up gets a heavier one, and measuring at half to two thirds the way up the trigger I get extreme weights. I figure the second measurement is probably the right one, but I am by no means sure.

[JHC]

Where do you measure the pull on the trigger? I find that if I measure at the tip of the trigger I get a very light measurement; a third of the way up gets a heavier one, and measuring at half to two thirds the way up the trigger I get extreme weights. I figure the second measurement is probably the right one, but I am by no means sure.

I take great care to pull at the point my finger is at which is about like you described as the "second measurement".

[NRA]

I have been using Renaissance wax with good results. Flitz polish is a violation of a Glock Armorers agreement, but using NRA endorced wax is not. The Renaissance wax is amazing. I also take some bend out of the connector so it is not pushing so hard on the trigger bar. If you feel almost no reset, you took out too much.

For lube I like dupont dry lube with PTFE or Hornady One Shot.

All oem Glock parts with a minus connector and it operates like power windows on a Cadillac.

Please Join The NRA

[dookie1481]

I swapped my dot connector back into my Gen 4 19 and after a little flitz and a Gen 3 G17 trigger bar swap, it's not too bad. With a minus connector and all that stuff it was 4 lb 2 oz which was a little light for my tastes for CCW.

Maybe the interwebs have brainwashed me, but I too only like OEM trigger parts for Glocks.

[YVK]

I take great care to pull at the point my finger is at which is about like you described as the "second measurement".

That is an interesting discussion point. From standpoint of shooter's performance, that's where is should be measured, and it is how I did it forever. One day I realized that from safety standpoint (accidental or negligent trigger engagement) it should be measured at the point of a lightest break. I dd so, and removed minus connectors from all my Glocks.

[GJM]

That is an interesting discussion point. From standpoint of shooter's performance, that's where is should be measured, and it is how I did it forever. One day I realized that from safety standpoint (accidental or negligent trigger engagement) it should be measured at the point of a lightest break. I dd so, and removed minus connectors from all my Glocks.

Interesting question is whether trigger weight, length or some other characteristic is significant in terms of an accidental discharge? In other words, are you, for example, safer with a 6.5 pound trigger, compared to a 5.5, or does it take a much greater increase in weight to make a difference. I think the trigger guard design is also a factor. Comparing a Glock to a FNS, the Glock, for example, has a much smaller trigger guard, which I think could make it easier to have a shirt tail end up pressing the trigger compared to a larger trigger guard which might allow the foreign object in the trigger guard without pressing the trigger enough to fire.

[Mr_White]

It took me a long time to get over fears of using the OEM minus connector in my carry guns. Eventually I did though. Bottom line is that I do shoot more accurately with a minus connector. It is hard for me to believe that one additional pound of trigger weight is going to prevent an ND during startle response, interlimb interaction, or postural disturbance. One pound of trigger weight does make a difference when it comes to accuracy. Accurate shooting is safer to bystanders.

[JonInWA]

I'll use a minus connector on several of my carry Glocks...but only in conjunction with a NY1 spring.

Best, Jon

[psalms144.1]

I've been all around the map on this issue, personally. I've tried the (-) connector and NY1 trigger, and hated it. Tried just the (-) connector and it was better, but didn't like the overall pull weight. Tried several aftermarket connectors and never found one that was much better, UNTIL...

Tried the Ghost "EVO" and "EDGE" connectors. These are (-) equivalent connectors that have a thingermajiggy that gets rid of the "hard stack" at the back of the trigger pull - providing the oft searched for "rolling" trigger break. Tried it, loved it, but trigger was still a LITTLE lighter than I liked. Tried them with the NY1 trigger - instant hatred (something about that spring gives me the heeby-jeebies). Tried the Ghost "extra power" striker spring, and ended up with a consistent, smooth, rolling trigger break that comes in right at factory spec of 5.5# +/- an ounce or two depending on how good I am with the scale. I mated that combination to a 3rd Gen smooth-faced trigger in all my Glocks, and never been happier, or more consistent/accurate with my Glocks.

Is it the perfect combo for everyone? Not sure, and definitely not for those who aren't comfortable with any non-OEM parts. But, it works for me, and I can clearly show that it's led to a performance improvement for me, and, like Ori mentioned, hitting what I'm shooting at is the biggest safety improvement I can ever think of.

Regards,

Kevin

[mizer67]

I'm still using a LWD minus connector in my guns with a Gen 3 smooth face trigger bar. Gives a slightly lighter, rolling break.

Haven't had one break, yet.

[JBP55]

I'm still using a LWD minus connector in my guns with a Gen 3 smooth face trigger bar. Gives a slightly lighter, rolling break.

Haven't had one break, yet.

Not likely to break as long as it is lubricated.

[mizer67]

Not likely to break as long as it is lubricated.

Perhaps, but here's some reading for you where a LWD connector broke after ~16,000 rounds.

http://pistol-training.com/archives/6459

I have one with north of 20K on it, but it still gives me something to consider.

[JBP55]

I do recommend keeping them lubricated.
My friend sent his new HK VP9 back to HK because of trigger issues out of the box but most new HK pistols work fine.

If LWD connectors were breaking on a regular basis it would be all over GT.
If many of them were breaking I do not think Charlie Vanek would still be using them in his triggers.

[David Armstrong]

I only use OEM parts for my Glocks. I recently put a "-" connector in with NY1 trigger into my G19 after many years of the standard connector with a NY1 trigger. So far I like the fact that it doesn't seem as "stagey" as the NY1 with standard but I'm not convinced yet that is the way to go with all the Glocks. I am a firm believer in the NY1 trigger for working guns based on the large amount of accidental doubles I see with the standard trigger.

[YVK]

Interesting question is whether trigger weight, length or some other characteristic is significant in terms of an accidental discharge?

There will be no data. Even that often quoted FBI data on length of pull vs weight is not recorded anywhere. I think it is an issue of personal beliefs and comfort, theoretical plausibility, and personal experience. I have 35,000 rounds worth of experience to firmly believe that length of pull is a mitigating factor in preventing one type of a negligent discharge in my hands, for example. I think weight does become more critical for shorter length of pull, but I don't know to what extent.


It is hard for me to believe that one additional pound of trigger weight is going to prevent an ND during startle response, interlimb interaction, or postural disturbance.

A counterargument is that one pound is 20-25% change here. Where else would such magnitude of a change be considered insignificant? It may not and likely will not help under circumstances you've mentioned, but it might help in situation of a light subconscious trigger check, tangential contact with clothing, inadvertent trigger contact when regripping a wet gun by an affected hand or transferring gun from wounded to intact hand.
I think that from a standpoint of arguing one or another position this thing is impasse. I cannot prove that 3.5 lbs on carry Glock is unsafe just like I can't prove that 4.5 is safer. My only argument is that if one is concerned with trigger weight and ND, the pull weight that should be considered should be a lightest weight that can make gun go off, not the weight at the optimal finger position.

[Mr_White]

Those are fair concerns and I spent a long time worrying about them. Trigger checking should be addressed through disciplined training. Transfers, to the degree possible, should be addressed in training too. Gear/clothing layout can be managed by a given person to the degree they can. I think safety is also gained through greater accuracy. I think the trigger pull weight of a Glock, stock except for minus connector (or a model that comes with that from the factory) is well within the range of trigger pull weights in similar guns used for duty and self-defense, and may even be at or above the published factory weight in some cases. Some agencies authorize it as well. I’m over it now, and I’m not going back to biting my nails! ;)

[Jaywalker]

I'm lucky with my one and only Glock G19 Gen4. The trigger it came with led me to conclude that I either needed to change the trigger or sell the piece. I went with a GlockTriggers Guardian for several reasons - it was all OEM parts, returnable within 30 days if unfired, and available with a military discount. Since I disliked the trigger pull "wall" in mine, GlockTriggers suggested the Gen3 trigger bar would flex more than the dimpled Gen4's and allow more of a rolling break. It does that and I like it. I am surprised to read that there is so much variance in trigger feel, though, since I have only the one. My trigger pull is a little over five pounds.

[Failure2Stop]

I have 3 Gen 4 G17s.
They are all stock triggers.
They do vary slightly, but all are acceptable to me.

In the past I tried some different triggers: the NY and (-), one of the Ghost triggers, a self-done polish job, and the stock Gen 3 G35. They all did something different, and I might retry the (-), but I think being able to perform competently with the stock trigger is a must before trying other options.

[45dotACP]

I have 3 Gen 4 G17s.
They are all stock triggers.
They do vary slightly, but all are acceptable to me.

In the past I tried some different triggers: the NY and (-), one of the Ghost triggers, a self-done polish job, and the stock Gen 3 G35. They all did something different, and I might retry the (-), but I think being able to perform competently with the stock trigger is a must before trying other options.
Judging by how well you shoot F2S, this leads me to believe that stock is probably more than good enough for most.

I don't have the stock though, as my G34 came with a minus connector...well twist my arm :D

[NRA]

Purchased my first trigger kit. Vogel Competition Trigger System. Ebay $100 including freight. Ill let this thread know if it blows past my browser again.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/15/1c117f204a7e2d0a78f89a0a50a41e73.jpg

Smooth Trigger w/ Trigger Bar / OEM / Modified & polished

Trigger Housing w/ Ejector / OEM / Modified & polished*(adjustable over-travel)

3.5 lb. Connector / OEM polished

Firing Pin Safety Plunger / OEM polished

Trigger Spring /*OEM polished

Firing Pin Spring / Wolff reduced power 4.0lb

Firing Pin Spring / Wolff reduced power 4.5lb

Firing Pin Spring / Wolff reduced power 5.0lb

Hex tool / for Over-travel adjustmentExtra spring cups / OEM


Please Join The NRA

[littlejerry]

So I had a chance to talk to Bob Vogel recently and shoot a few rounds through his 34 at a World Class Pistol Skills class. Here was what I took away:

-Bob typically uses OEM connectors in his guns. He thinks they move the break point slightly forward vs some aftermarket connectors.
-Bob is running a minus connector, comp trigger spring, reduced plunger spring(or cut down plunger spring), and a reduced power striker spring.
-Bob is fanatically OCD about using good primers and fully seating them. He never has light strikes in his gun with his ammo.
-There is no magic vendor with perfect parts. Each gun and each part is different enough that Bob mixes and matches from a batch of parts to get what he deems a good trigger.
With all of that said I put 2 mags through his 34. The slide was a TTI slide with Bobs own mixture of parts in the gun. It felt.... Exactly like a Glock. I was completely underwhelmed. It was a smidge lighter than my Gen 3 19 with an OEM minus connector, reduced power FPB spring, and light home polish job. I was halfway expecting to wield the hammer of Thor when I picked up his gun but it was just another Glock 34... Which makes his accomplishments all the more incredible.

[MGW]

I've been all around the map on this issue, personally. I've tried the (-) connector and NY1 trigger, and hated it. Tried just the (-) connector and it was better, but didn't like the overall pull weight. Tried several aftermarket connectors and never found one that was much better, UNTIL...

Tried the Ghost "EVO" and "EDGE" connectors. These are (-) equivalent connectors that have a thingermajiggy that gets rid of the "hard stack" at the back of the trigger pull - providing the oft searched for "rolling" trigger break. Tried it, loved it, but trigger was still a LITTLE lighter than I liked. Tried them with the NY1 trigger - instant hatred (something about that spring gives me the heeby-jeebies). Tried the Ghost "extra power" striker spring, and ended up with a consistent, smooth, rolling trigger break that comes in right at factory spec of 5.5# +/- an ounce or two depending on how good I am with the scale. I mated that combination to a 3rd Gen smooth-faced trigger in all my Glocks, and never been happier, or more consistent/accurate with my Glocks.

Is it the perfect combo for everyone? Not sure, and definitely not for those who aren't comfortable with any non-OEM parts. But, it works for me, and I can clearly show that it's led to a performance improvement for me, and, like Ori mentioned, hitting what I'm shooting at is the biggest safety improvement I can ever think of.

Regards,

Kevin

I you running this in a Gen 3, 4 or both?

[Clobbersaurus]

Those are fair concerns and I spent a long time worrying about them. Trigger checking should be addressed through disciplined training. Transfers, to the degree possible, should be addressed in training too. Gear/clothing layout can be managed by a given person to the degree they can. I think safety is also gained through greater accuracy. I think the trigger pull weight of a Glock, stock except for minus connector (or a model that comes with that from the factory) is well within the range of trigger pull weights in similar guns used for duty and self-defense, and may even be at or above the published factory weight in some cases. Some agencies authorize it as well. I’m over it now, and I’m not going back to biting my nails! ;)

I'm curious if you take a hard register on the pistol when you aren't in the shooting cycle? Also, are you using a gadget?

I just moved away from Glocks to TDA's for a variety of reason, one of which is that I feel the TDA trigger and hammer combination is inherently safer (flame suit on), especially when re-holstering. I may have stuck with the Glock if I'd had access to a gadget, not sure. As info, I had a NY1 spring and 3.5 connector in my Glock.

My goal when training with my Glock was to "feel steel" with my trigger finger on the slide when presenting out the holster. Originally I registered off the ejection port, but found I was a little faster with just registering on the slide and didn't feel the ejection port register offered any safety advantages over the steel slide, but the ejection port register did slow my draw down slightly. Getting a hard register on the slide helps to my finger not get onto the trigger until I'm well into my press out. I still use the slide register on my Beretta.

Sorry for the thread drift.

[NRA]

Vogel kit installed it is not night and day different. I lost the safety plunger spring (first spring I ever lost, ordered 10 more) so I am still using the original. Put in the 5# striker spring as I do not want click when I need bang. Also comes with 4 and 4.5

The over travel adjustment quickens things up some maybe. The reset point is loud and clear. Too much so. I dont need that much feedback. I will lower that some to be more smooth by bending in the connector just a little.

The factory parts Vogel uses give you the same feel with Renaissance wax if you want to save big bucks and do it yourself. A wolf spring kit from ebay, $20 and a 25 cent polish and call it good.

Glad I ordered it so I can see where to drill and place a screw for over travel in stock Glock parts.

Please Join The NRA

[Up1911Fan]

I use a factory - connector with a lite internal polish in my Gen4 G17's.

[ASH556]

I use a factory - connector with a lite internal polish in my Gen4 G17's.

How does that feel? I thought I heard somewhere (maybe the Harrington/Vickers/Hackathorn Glock youtube clip) that a "-" connector in a Gen 4 yielded less than desirable results.

7:29 - Hackathorn starts talking about triggers, but I don't hear him say what I thought I remembered.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7ViI2UWFKg

[Shellback]

I use the "." (dot) connector in my G19 (Gen 3) with favorable results. I've read it's in the middle between stock and the "-" connector but I don't have measurements.

[psalms144.1]

I you running this in a Gen 3, 4 or both?Coach - Gen4 G19, Gen4 G26, 3rd Gen G30S

[Mr_White]

I'm curious if you take a hard register on the pistol when you aren't in the shooting cycle? Also, are you using a gadget?

I just moved away from Glocks to TDA's for a variety of reason, one of which is that I feel the TDA trigger and hammer combination is inherently safer (flame suit on), especially when re-holstering. I may have stuck with the Glock if I'd had access to a gadget, not sure. As info, I had a NY1 spring and 3.5 connector in my Glock.

My goal when training with my Glock was to "feel steel" with my trigger finger on the slide when presenting out the holster. Originally I registered off the ejection port, but found I was a little faster with just registering on the slide and didn't feel the ejection port register offered any safety advantages over the steel slide, but the ejection port register did slow my draw down slightly. Getting a hard register on the slide helps to my finger not get onto the trigger until I'm well into my press out. I still use the slide register on my Beretta.

Sorry for the thread drift.

Yes, register position at top edge of frame, yes gadget. Sorry for the short response -using phone right now.

[littlejerry]

How does that feel? I thought I heard somewhere (maybe the Harrington/Vickers/Hackathorn Glock youtube clip) that a "-" connector in a Gen 4 yielded less than desirable results.

7:29 - Hackathorn starts talking about triggers, but I don't hear him say what I thought I remembered.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7ViI2UWFKg

What Is less than desirable?

I have OEM minus any connectors in gen 3 and 4 19s. The gen 3 is smoother and lighter... But the gen 4 isn't bad. Its lighter than stock but has more of a wall before the break than any of the gen 3 guns I've used.

[JHC]

How does that feel? I thought I heard somewhere (maybe the Harrington/Vickers/Hackathorn Glock youtube clip) that a "-" connector in a Gen 4 yielded less than desirable results.

7:29 - Hackathorn starts talking about triggers, but I don't hear him say what I thought I remembered.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7ViI2UWFKg

My sons now have all Gen 4s with minus connectors and they turn out pretty well. I think we're talking about 9-10 guns total.

Now understand their standard like mine is to just get a not overly heavy Glock trigger and forget about it and concentrate on shooting fundamentals. I don't worry about overtravel or force of the resest vs standard connectors. It's short enough and strong enough so just shoot them is the thing.

Some feel a little better than others but close enough for really good shooting. The only one I've had the opportunity to weigh on my new scales is an early Gen 4 G19 (early summer 2010) that is superb and it's trigger actually weighed right at 5 lbs repeatedly - lighter than my Gen 3's with a minus. That's counter intuitive. It has been shot a good bit - around 5K rds I'd guess, he's not updating my logs.

[Texaspoff]

I typically run Glock OEM "-" connectors in all my glock 3rd and 4th gens. The 4th gen all get 3rd gen trigger bars. I have been using the Glock OEM "." connector in one of my 4th gen G19s lately, and I like it. A tad heavier than the "-" connector, not as heavy as the factory connector, but it doesn't have the roll that the "-" connectors has. After a few more range trips I may switch all my "-" connectors to "."

TXPO

[Jay Cunningham]

For eight years I've run stock triggers in my Glocks, with the sole exception of an OEM NY1 plus 3.5# connector setup in my one Gen3 19.

I recently decided to try an aftermarket trigger and installed the GlockTriggers Vogel in my Gen4 19. It comes with a 4#, 4.5# and 5# spring; I initially installed the 4# and things were pretty good. I got a couple of light strikes on some reman ammo but then a whole slew on some Wolf - I'm the first to acknowledge that this is more the ammo than the trigger. I swapped to the 4.5# spring and Wolf ran much better but more importantly (to me) the trigger characteristics improved. I just bought a Gen4 34 and immediately installed a Vogel trigger with the 4.5# spring.

Is it worth it? Eh, this stuff all costs money. I put a trigger in my AR that costs $100 more than my Vogel Glock trigger, and I'll argue vociferously that an aftermarket trigger is way more beneficial on a pistol than a carbine.

It's all good.

[MSparks909]

I recently sold my Gen4 34 to a friend. It came with THE worst factory trigger I have ever felt. The break was easily 2X heavier than my Gen4 19. Took a dremel to the trigger bar multiple times before finally installing a Vogel kit (Gen 4 trigger bar). Tried running the 5# striker spring but had issues with light strikes. Put the factory striker spring back in. The break was much improved with the Vogel kit. I think my factory trigger bar was just way out of whack.

Replaced it with a USA made Gen 3 17. Put a Glock "-" connector in it and I'm calling it good. Figure it will break in nicely in a couple thousand rounds.

[Jay Cunningham]

Honestly the factory setup in my Gen4 34 didn't feel bad. But the Vogel trigger with the 4.5# spring felt like the 3.5#/NY1 after smoking some chiba and getting a massage.

[NRA]

I have the Vogel in my G23C. What it really seems to do, and quite well, is bring together one drilled tiny hole, a tiny screw, a Glock minus connector, four Wolf springs, and a 25 cent polish job, all for $150 plus freight.

While it feels good, I cannot tell any difference between a home job and this expensive kit except the over travel adjustment.

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[Sasage]

I use the "." (dot) connector in my G19 (Gen 3) with favorable results. I've read it's in the middle between stock and the "-" connector but I don't have measurements.

Sorry to revive the dead...but...

I was messing with my 26 Gen 4 today and found a Gen 3 trigger bar and a dot connector to be comparable to a Gen 3 trigger bar to a minus connector. I need to get a dremel and polish up the connector though.

[JBP55]

If you use a Gen 3 trigger bar in a Gen 4 Glock make sure you have enough connection between the firing pin and trigger or it May Double with one trigger pull.

[1911Nut]

I own several Glock pistols and have experimented with polished OEM parts, modifications from Glockmeister, Glocktriggers.com, the Haley Skimmer, and the Vanek Classic trigger. Put quite a few rounds downrange with a couple of G34's, a couple of G17's, a G26, and a G19 (all Gen 3). Also a Gen 3 G21, a G20SF, and a Gen4 G21.

I share a similar opinion to others posting on this thread: I am convinced one can tell whether you are going to get a good trigger by dry firing NIB pistols. The variability across pistols is enough (IMHO) that if you find one that feels "right" at the gun store, you are pretty much assured that regardless of what you do in the way of enhancement or modification to that pistol, you are highly likely to have a satisfactory trigger.

I purchased my G19 because it had the best out-of-the-box trigger I had ever felt on a Glock pistol. I wasn't even in the market for a G19! I have spent far less time and quite a bit less money on that G19 messing with the trigger than any Glock pistol I have owned, and the trigger on it is tied for best trigger among my many Glock pistols.

When the G43 pistols first were available in stores, I dry fired one that felt like it had a remarkably nice trigger. I wasn't (and still am not) in the market for a G43, but since I tried that pistol, I have dry fired at least half a dozen more over the past few months. I should have bought that first G43, because it is now obvious to me that it had an exceptional trigger when compared to others I have since tried!

[JBP55]

Where I purchase my Glocks you do not dry fire them. The NIB pistol is sealed and opened for inspection after paperwork clears. You never purchase a pistol that someone has dry fired.
They do have Glocks in the counter for inspection that are not for sale but any new Glock you purchase will be unsealed after purchase.

[Luke]

That's really weird? I've finger banged every gun I've ever bought. I always ask just to be polite. Haven't gotten a no yet!

[OnionsAndDragons]

Where I purchase my Glocks you do not dry fire them. The NIB pistol is sealed and opened for inspection after paperwork clears. You never purchase a pistol that someone has dry fired.
They do have Glocks in the counter for inspection that are not for sale but any new Glock you purchase will be unsealed after purchase.

This is odd to me, too. The only pistol I've ever bought that I didn't dry fire was my Les Baer.

I'll bring a snap cap, if they want yo be picky about it; but if they don't want me to try the trigger, they don't want my money enough.


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[JBP55]

This is odd to me, too. The only pistol I've ever bought that I didn't dry fire was my Les Baer.

I'll bring a snap cap, if they want yo be picky about it; but if they don't want me to try the trigger, they don't want my money enough.


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They have no problem selling Glocks as they are the second largest Glock Distributor in the State with a waiting list to buy. Their G43 waiting list was recently over 500.

[OnionsAndDragons]

Okay, I guess that makes sense. If you don't need most of your potential sales, you are probably less inclined to accommodate specific requests.

Still seems like an aberration as far as gun sellers are concerned, and I would not choose to buy from them personally; but the policy makes more sense with this info.


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[Irelander]

I went from a standard Gen3 G19 trigger setup to a NY1 spring and Glock (-) connector. I like the rolling break and while the weight was a little on the heavy side for me I didn't feel it was a problem. I had also read how using a (-) connector with the standard spring was not a good idea for a carry gun so the NY1 made me feel safer. I also liked that the NY1 is basically unbreakable whereas the standard trigger spring has been known to break however fairly rarely.

Last night I put a Ghost Ultimate 3.5# connector in my father's G17 with standard trigger spring. I really liked the rolling break and the weight just seemed "right" to me. The weight did not feel "unsafe" light...just right.

I am going to experiment a little but I bet I end up with a standard trigger spring and a (-) connector.

[ScotchMan]

Maybe a bit of thread hijack here, but it just felt wrong to start a new thread with this one sitting right here.

In my ongoing quest to become as proficient with my gen4 G19 as I am with my PPQ, I am now considering messing with the trigger, in large part to threads like these. I do not have a trigger pull gauge, but estimate that my Glock trigger is probably around 6.5-7lbs. It is much heavier than my PPQ and PPS, a VP9 I've spent some time with, and my P2000sk LEM V4 (medium LEM). It reminds me of my stock LEM trigger pull weight (V2), but its been a while.

At any rate, I think there is something to be gained here that is worth investigating. If I can get my Glock down into the 5lb range I suspect my performance might get close enough to the PPQ that I can finally throw the Walther in the safe for good.

Based on my research, I believe that my Gen4 manufactured last year currently has a "dot" connector? Is that true? It seems strange to me that it would still have such a heavy pull with it. So in this case, I am thinking I want to get a Glock minus connector. While I am in there, I can do the Flitz/polish job outlined across the internets.

Any issues with my thinking here? I am generally nervous to mess with triggers as I am not a gunsmith, but this seems fairly low risk.

[JBP55]

Changing a dot connector for a minus connector will reduce your trigger pull weight approximately 8 oz. and polishing trigger components will smooth things out a little if it was rough.

[OnionsAndDragons]

I would buy an extra trigger bar(maybe a full flat g17 trigger assembly), dot connector, oem minus connector and NY1 spring.

Polish up your current dot and trigger bar, try that. Then try w the minus. If this is still too heavy, polish the minus. Try it with stock trigger spring and NY1. Figure out if any of it works better for you. Worst case, you swap in the new dot and trigger bar to bring it back to stock and you are out $40.

I like a polished minus w the NY1. I also prefer the flat, non serrated, g17 type trigger. This Is my preference.

That said, my PPQ is still much better. And I don't think you can reasonably get a carry trigger on a Glock that is closer than a step or two down from the PPQ and still be "safe" due to the Glocks much shorter length of pull.


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[ScotchMan]

So I put in a minus and polished everything up as best I could. I didn't find the "felt" wheel on my Dremel was doing much, but got the heeby jeebies at the thought of using a sanding wheel, so I can't say that the polishing did much. It looks shinier. But the connector, while not very obvious in dry fire, seems to make a big difference at the range. Like 30-40% closer groups better. So I am happy, and will start liquidating some PPQ-related paraphernalia. The Gadget materializing in this universe is the final nail in the coffin of me ever carrying the PPQ.

[fwrun]

My Gen2 trigger bar has the smoothest rolling break on any 9mm Glock I put it in. I notice that even highly polished Gen 3 and Gen4 trigger bars tend to result in a very very slight movement in the sights that hours upon hours of dry-fire cannot fully get rid of. This is the case with factory standard, minus, dot, and plus connectors, and LWD minus connectors regardless of spring combination.

I'm not sure if it's simply a mental thing, but using the exact same trigger finger placement on Gen2-4 pistols results in a motionless sight picture with the Gen 2 bar, but one with ever-so-slight front sight wiggle with Gen3-4 bars. Not sure what it is about that trigger bar, but that is the best "set up" of all my Glock triggers. In live-fire I don't notice it, and shoot centered groups with all my trigger bars, but it drives me insane during dry-fire.

Does anyone else have a similar experience? I've been unable to find a similar story to mine locally.

[breakingtime91]

maybe i don't know what I don't know, but my stock trigger is pretty nice..

[Luke]

I'm with this guy ^^ I spent $50 on a ghost elite 3.3 kit and ran that for a while (month or so, installed before I ever shot it) last week I put it all back to stock. It's pretty nice.

[Sasage]

So far I have found a Gen 3 trigger bar in a Gen 4 frame with a minus connector to be my preferred.