New CZ P-07 = Mind Blown

[Clusterfrack]

At 10-10.5# with the 15# mainspring, I'd like something just a hair lighter. I lubed/greased all the parts that showed any signs of hanging up, but there's still quite a bit of stagey-ness. Of course, I was still able to shoot it as well as my Staccato C on several drills shooting at realistic speed, so I probably ought to just stick with what I've got and let use smooth it out.

The kit I installed had that reduced power main spring (15#), trigger return spring, FPB spring and firing pin spring. I also installed their extended firing pin and their roll pin.

Cool. The full Prograde kit includes an improved roller, and that does make a difference in the DA pull. I recommend putting half an earplug under the hammer and doing several 100 dry fires. I bet your gun will improve noticeably as it breaks in.

It’s worth trying the 13lb hammer spring as well.

[Moylan]

S&B did not want to pop. Will try the 13#. Or just stick with Blazer. They're still 100%.

[45dotACP]

I tend to go with the 13lb spring

Sent from my SM-A326U using Tapatalk

[claymore504]

When I first got into the P07 & P09 I ran only the 18# (yellow) spring and have never had an issue. Currently in my P09 though I am running the 15# (gold) hammer spring and still have not had any issues. I did have two rounds not fire last time though with my P09 and they were both Freedom 115gr reman. I have not ran that ammo in a long time, so not sure if that ammo is known to have issues.

[DoubleD]

After reading this thread in it’s entirety I decided to purchase a P-07. I ordered the Pro Kit from CGW’s as well as a few extra recoil springs, 4 firing pin retaining pins, & an extra decocking lever assembly. I’m on CGW’s notification list for when a takedown lever becomes available.
I had my local gunsmith disassemble the 07 & measure the roller bearing before ordering the Pro Kit. CGW’s advised me which size roller bearing would be most appropriate via email. Upon completion the trigger pull is equal to a pair of LTT 92’s from Mr. Langdon’s shop & better then a Sig 220 & 245 that Mr. Langdon worked on many years ago. I’m a happy camper.
I’m wondering because of the recent tentative anomaly with CZ (reference Colt) management if I should try & obtain any other extra parts? Thanks for any advice.

[Clusterfrack]

After reading this thread in it’s entirety I decided to purchase a P-07. I ordered the Pro Kit from CGW’s as well as a few extra recoil springs, 4 firing pin retaining pins, & an extra decocking lever assembly. I’m on CGW’s notification list for when a takedown lever becomes available.
I had my local gunsmith disassemble the 07 & measure the roller bearing before ordering the Pro Kit. CGW’s advised me which size roller bearing would be most appropriate via email. Upon completion the trigger pull is equal to a pair of LTT 92’s from Mr. Langdon’s shop & better then a Sig 220 & 245 that Mr. Langdon worked on many years ago. I’m a happy camper.
I’m wondering because of the recent tentative anomaly with CZ (reference Colt) management if I should try & obtain any other extra parts? Thanks for any advice.

Glad the P-07 is working out so well for you. Your spare parts kit has most of the items I would have suggested. The springs in the 07/09 last a really long time, and I doubt parts availability will be a problem no matter what happens at CZ-USA. I'm not sure how many P-07s are in use worldwide, but it's a large number. I think it's likely that CZ will keep manufacturing them in Czech as always.

That said, I would have the following on hand:

CGW trigger return springs
Decocker springs (this little fucker is the one part of the design that I don't love. It takes practice, and possibly a special tool to install, and I've heard of people ruining them in the process).
Mainspring housing (plastic sleeve)
Trigger pin

If your gun will have a high round count (20k+), buy an extra extractor, extractor spring, trigger bar spring, firing pin, and fp spring.

[DoubleD]

CF,
Thank you that was extremely helpful.

[claymore504]

P07/P09 parts are a little hard to get, so I get on the notification list at CGW, CZ Custom and CZ webstore and buy them when I get a hit. Thanks for the parts list, Clusterfrack. I had not considered having some extra decocker springs, but will grab some. They are interesting to get re-installed for sure. I have taken a little small flathead screwdriver and slightly bent the shaft and cut a notch in the middle of the blade. Really helps guide that little leg back under the decocker.

[Clusterfrack]

P07/P09 parts are a little hard to get, so I get on the notification list at CGW, CZ Custom and CZ webstore and buy them when I get a hit. Thanks for the parts list, Clusterfrack. I had not considered having some extra decocker springs, but will grab some. They are interesting to get re-installed for sure. I have taken a little small flathead screwdriver and slightly bent the shaft and cut a notch in the middle of the blade. Really helps guide that little leg back under the decocker.

Good idea. It sounds like your solution and mine are similar.

Tool for installation of decocker spring (this makes an annoying step easy):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016A8I8HC/

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71N8JEXllfL._AC_UX679_.jpg

[FreedomFries]

Good idea. It sounds like your solution and mine are similar.

Tool for installation of decocker spring (this makes an annoying step easy):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016A8I8HC/

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71N8JEXllfL._AC_UX679_.jpg

I just used a small torx driver to push the spring into place and it worked great for me.

[45dotACP]

Good idea. It sounds like your solution and mine are similar.

Tool for installation of decocker spring (this makes an annoying step easy):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016A8I8HC/

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71N8JEXllfL._AC_UX679_.jpgDamn that's a good idea. I just rely on needle nose pliers and creative profanity combinations mostly.

Sent from my SM-A326U using Tapatalk

[Clusterfrack]

Dremel buffing tool dehorning job on the CGW hammer.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220916/aacfcf64302ef23a6986dddec041ea73.jpg

[DoubleD]

Very sweet! We’re you able to do this while the hammer was attached to the pistol?

[Clusterfrack]

Very sweet! We’re you able to do this while the hammer was attached to the pistol?

Yes. Dog poop bag over the gun, push hammer to puncture bag so that's all that is exposed.

I applied Brownells Super Black to the polished area. I doubt it will be very durable, but worth a try.

[DoubleD]

I like it what you’ve accomplished. I carried a 3” chief hvy bbl (Model 36) for years from early to mid 80’s while working plain clothes details. The hammer was shortened & bobbed with new serrations added to the part of the hammer closest to the frame. It also had a very smooth trigger job. That gun was a shooter - very accurate & quick to point & align. Walter Birdsong refinished it
I still have it but the days of my carrying a 3” Chief are in the past for me. Not enough gun for its weight & size. Just my opinion.

[Mjolnir]

Yes. Dog poop bag over the gun, push hammer to puncture bag so that's all that is exposed.

I applied Brownells Super Black to the polished area. I doubt it will be very durable, but worth a try.

Send it out to be PVD coated.

[mizer67]

I decided to join the P07 club. Better late than never, right?

Question for those in the know: My gun which is box stock has a very distinct "hitch" in the trigger pull, which is particularly bothersome while in single action. It occurs about 1/4" - 1/8"th before the single action break.

My assumption is that this is the trigger bar pressing up on the firing pin block, but it's throwing me off and causing me to anticipate shots. Has anyone else had this issue and if so, is installing a reduced power firing pin block enough to eliminate the issue or are other remedies necessary?

[Clusterfrack]

Welcome to the P-07 club, mizer67. In my experience, the action of all P-07s improves significantly with lubrication and break-in. Here are some things that improve the SA pull:

grease sear spring hole (small amount)
reduced power FP block spring
grease sear
break-in of sear surfaces


Of course, a CGW Prograde Kit takes the action to another level. But it's really not necessary.


I decided to join the P07 club. Better late than never, right?

Question for those in the know: My gun which is box stock has a very distinct "hitch" in the trigger pull, which is particularly bothersome while in single action. It occurs about 1/4" - 1/8"th before the single action break.

My assumption is that this is the trigger bar pressing up on the firing pin block, but it's throwing me off and causing me to anticipate shots. Has anyone else had this issue and if so, is installing a reduced power firing pin block enough to eliminate the issue or are other remedies necessary?

[Clusterfrack]

Send it out to be PVD coated.

I could. But it will just get worn again, so I think I'll leave it.

[mizer67]

Welcome to the P-07 club, mizer67. In my experience, the action of all P-07s improves significantly with lubrication and break-in. Here are some things that improve the SA pull:

grease sear spring hole (small amount)
reduced power FP block spring
grease sear
break-in of sear surfaces


Of course, a CGW Prograde Kit takes the action to another level. But it's really not necessary.

Thank you for the tips. I'm going to try the CGW Prograde kit. It's part of why I bought the gun is the fact the CGW kit exists for it. Probably not for a few months though.

In the meantime, I want to try a few springs and internal polishing of the action to see if I can help it along to becoming something great.

[TicTacticalTimmy]

https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=66147.0

Here's the guide by David of CGW on how to polish/tune your P07/P09.

Most of it is really simple and hard to screw up. The trigger bar and the trigger bar return spring I think are the only areas you could screw up if you are overzealous, so if you are new to polishing internal parts like this maybe do those parts last, or alternatively polish/bend them only minimally during your first go-around.

[Clusterfrack]

Full detail strip and 6500 round parts replacement on the carry P-07. Slide stop was virtually pristine but I swapped a new one just in case. 13# mainspring was 1.5 coils short. With a new one, the DA pull is 7.25lbs. There was a tiny amount of surface corrosion on the firing pin and sear pin that wiped away. The heavy dust that coated the gun when I was elk hunting did not penetrate the action. The gun was remarkably clean. Surprising, given the conditions this gun has experienced.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220919/2f05b2bcbc33ff1c042e6c4a34817bf5.jpg

[claymore504]

https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=66147.0

Here's the guide by David of CGW on how to polish/tune your P07/P09.

Most of it is really simple and hard to screw up. The trigger bar and the trigger bar return spring I think are the only areas you could screw up if you are overzealous, so if you are new to polishing internal parts like this maybe do those parts last, or alternatively polish/bend them only minimally during your first go-around.

Just be careful with the bending the trigger bar spring step. If you bend it too much it will cause major issues. Not bending it at all is an option as well. I usually check the groove in the trigger bar that the spring rides in and clean that up and polish. I also clean up the end of the trigger bar spring if there are any sharp burs. Not sure if it helps, but can't hurt. As for the trigger, sear pin and hammer pin, I don't polish and just let them break in. I have gone through 3 P07s and 4 P09s. I now have one P07 and two P09s with triggers the way I want them. I built the pro grade kit part by part basiclly. Just get the entire kit from th start is what I can say. The Hammer made a huge difference in my guns. I did not need to use the CGW DA roller in my guns as well. Sometimes they are just not needed if the stock roller is good to go.

[Clusterfrack]

Just be careful with the bending the trigger bar spring step. If you bend it too much it will cause major issues. Not bending it at all is an option as well. I usually check the groove in the trigger bar that the spring rides in and clean that up and polish. I also clean up the end of the trigger bar spring if there are any sharp burs. Not sure if it helps, but can't hurt. As for the trigger, sear pin and hammer pin, I don't polish and just let them break in. I have gone through 3 P07s and 4 P09s. I now have one P07 and two P09s with triggers the way I want them. I built the pro grade kit part by part basiclly. Just get the entire kit from th start is what I can say. The Hammer made a huge difference in my guns. I did not need to use the CGW DA roller in my guns as well. Sometimes they are just not needed if the stock roller is good to go.

I do not bend any springs. I think it is a bad idea that does not make much difference.

[Clusterfrack]

Followup to my last post. It's fairly easy to test how much difference each part or procedure makes in the P-07. The contribution of the tension of TB spring can be tested when the lower is stripped. I found that bending it did not produce a significant difference. Similarly, I decided the reduced power FP block spring is not worth installing because I can barely tell the difference.

Here are two springs that have a critical role in the function and safety of the gun. Modifying or replacing them for a "princess and the pea" exercise in trigger smoothness is not something I'm interested in.

In order, here are the things that make the P-07 action better:

1. Hammer spring weight (lighter spring requires CGW firing pin and spring)
2. Lubrication
3. Break-in (I don't hand polish my guns but if I did, I would not touch the sear or hammer notches)
4. Reduced power trigger return spring
5. CGW Prograde kit

[mizer67]

Unlike Clusterfrack I was resolved to try hand polishing some areas of my P07 while I was in there changing out springs, so I broke out the rotary tool, felt bits and Flitz.

I looked at the CZ forum thread and started with the guidance there. The only places I hit with 2000 grit sandpaper and did some wet sanding was the top of the trigger bar and FPB.

I polished:

- Sear
- Hammer
- FPB lifter
- FPB
- Roller bearing
- Trigger bar
- All the pins

I used a stone to flatten the trigger bar slightly as indicated in the CZ thread and I cleaned up the residual glue on the decocker.

I replaced these springs:

- Sear spring
- Hammer/mainspring
- Trigger return spring
- Firing pin spring
- FPB spring

After, the single action is very nice and light. It's about as good as my CZC Custom SA 75 and seems to be a similar pull weight around 3.5 lbs. I say "about" because my Shadow doesn't have a FPB and you can feel it if you're really looking for it on the P07. The double action isn't great. It's lighter and smoother, but still not perfect. I think replacing the roller bearing with the CGW part might help.

Overall, for about ~$40 not counting the felt bits and polish, it's a really nice setup now. More like what I had in my head about what the trigger should feel like when I bought the P07. The weird hitch in the trigger is gone. I think it was either the FPB spring twisting/bending oddly or some interface issue with the FPB lifter and FPB.

[mizer67]

Has anyone sanded the frame to reduce the hammer rubbing on the left side of the frame during the double action pull on the P07?

Polishing the hammer might help a little. I'm thinking of trying to relieve my frame slightly. I think (left sided) hammer rub is why my DA is still not the greatest, but single action is good.

[Clusterfrack]

Has anyone sanded the frame to reduce the hammer rubbing on the left side of the frame during the double action pull on the P07?

Polishing the hammer might help a little. I'm thinking of trying to relieve my frame slightly. I think (left sided) hammer rub is why my DA is still not the greatest, but single action is good.

I haven't. I would test by moving the hammer with mainspring removed. I'm guessing any friction from the frame is minimal. I've pushed the hammer against the frame and even then, there's little friction. I'd be interested in hearing what's up with your particular gun after you investigate.

[JCN]

I haven't. I would test by moving the hammer with mainspring removed. I'm guessing any friction from the frame is minimal. I've pushed the hammer against the frame and even then, there's little friction. I'd be interested in hearing what's up your particular gun after you investigate.

I’ve had trigger rubbing against the frame with an aftermarket trigger in the S2.

[mizer67]

I haven't. I would test by moving the hammer with mainspring removed. I'm guessing any friction from the frame is minimal. I've pushed the hammer against the frame and even then, there's little friction. I'd be interested in hearing what's up with your particular gun after you investigate.

Mine only rubs when the hammer cams (slightly) left during the DA trigger pull. There's definitely some hammer sliding-on-frame friction. The hammer will sit square in the frame at rest and w/o any tension.

I think I'm just going to start slow. Once I can get a sheet of paper in between the hammer and frame I'll work some 1200 grit sandpaper in there and see if that makes any difference. I figure the downsides are limited as long as I don't go nuts.

[Clusterfrack]

Mine only rubs when the hammer cams (slightly) left during the DA trigger pull. There's definitely some hammer sliding-on-frame friction. The hammer will sit square in the frame at rest and w/o any tension.

I think I'm just going to start slow. Once I can get a sheet of paper in between the hammer and frame I'll work some 1200 grit sandpaper in there and see if that makes any difference. I figure the downsides are limited as long as I don't go nuts.

Is this the OEM hammer or CGW?

[mizer67]

Is this the OEM hammer or CGW?

OEM.

Plan on going the CGW route eventually, but stock minus a few springs for now.

[Clusterfrack]

OEM.

Plan on going the CGW route eventually, but stock minus a few springs for now.

Ok. I have one P-07 with the OEM hammer, and can confirm a small amount of friction on the left side. A drop of oil smooths it to the point I can’t feel it, especially when pulling at a realistic speed.

I’m leaving the frame alone because the tight fit helps keep dust and crap from getting in there.

[Clusterfrack]

I’ve had some reloads with high primers, due to a batch of Win SPP that were short. So, I wasn’t surprised to have some light strikes in my Shadow2s with 11# hammer springs.

I was surprised to have two light strikes (fired 2nd strike) with my carry P-07 and a brand new 13# spring. So, I swapped in a 15# mainspring. DA pull is 6.75#, very acceptable and will likely go down as the spring breaks in.

I tested function with 5.56 military rifle primers, and it was 100%. In all likelihood, this is overkill given the soft Federal primers in my carry ammo.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220928/704a09c7bc1dcfb18a13687e3b177488.jpg

[mizer67]

As I continued to shoot and dryfire my newly acquired P07, as nice as the single action was, it still had some creep.

Being a bit of a trigger snob by this point, I decided to use the CGW hammer in my gun to sort that issue out, as it was causing me to anticipate shots. I do have to say, while it's the most expensive portion of CGW's full upgrade kit, it made a big difference in the crispness of the single action. Zero creep now that I can detect. I think it's on par with the single action in my CZC Shadow, if not a touch lighter. Or to put it another way, it's one of the best single action triggers I've fired short of a well tuned 1911.

I'm waiting on a Primary Machine barrel. Next week, testing out my new additions should be fun.

[GlockenSpiel]

https://cz-usa.com/cz-rebate/

I don't know if you guys have seen this, but there's now a $50 rebate for the P-07, 09, and P10 until the end of the year. With that it looks like you could get a P-07 from some of the online venders for a little over $400. Best deal in a couple years; P10s and P01s are also super cheap compared to what they have been.

[LockedBreech]

https://cz-usa.com/cz-rebate/

I don't know if you guys have seen this, but there's now a $50 rebate for the P-07, 09, and P10 until the end of the year. With that it looks like you could get a P-07 from some of the online venders for a little over $400. Best deal in a couple years; P10s and P01s are also super cheap compared to what they have been.

I saw the P01 Omega the other day for $590, haven't seen one under 700 in a year+ and that was hard to resist.

[Clusterfrack]

My slide came back from milling for a Holosun EPS (RMSc footprint) at Stonebridge Gunworks (https://stonebridgegunworks.com/CZ-P-07P-09-Direct-Optic-Cut-Slide-Milling-Service_p_174.html). I haven't had the chance to sight it in. The work looks excellent as I've come to expect from SBGW. Customer service has been excellent as well.

In comparison with the 509t2, the EPS sits about 1/4" lower. Note that both have low irons set for POI middle of window (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?54342-Low-Backup-Iron-Sights&p=1400753&viewfull=1#post1400753).

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221123/b19141a656dee966a9b655572d0d5eac.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221123/591daf8e7df49058d9e6a74cd89a88a7.jpg

[Evil_Ed]

My apologies for the long format article...

So, funny thing - a few pages ago (or a few months; back in Feb) I posted I had picked up a lightly used P07 - and replaced some of the guts with CGW internals (namely roller bearing, hammer and sear springs, and most of the top end internals/springs) - and ran into an intermittent issue with the trigger not resetting on DA dry fire practice. I wound up putting the gun away, until recently - I realized it was one of the few DA/SA guns that fit me well, so I figured I'd dig it out and give it another try. As much as I like my LTT...the 07 with a large backstrap just indexes like it was made for me. It's only competition for me is an HK P30, and truthfully I think I could flip a coin and be happy with either...but the 07 has issues that I'm not sure I caused. I wanna make it work.

One of the things I went back to check was the roller bearing. As it turned out, I may have mis-measured the factory roller bearing; per CGW, they say order the same size or smaller...well, I wound up ordering larger; my bearing measures .222-.223, and the bearing I ordered was .225. That might account for the occasional failure to reset...so I put the factory bearing back in. I might order a .220...we'll see. While I was there, I replaced the trigger return spring with a CGW unit. I have an old fashioned spring-driven trigger pull scale and it was off of that, so no idea what the DA pull weight was with the 15lb hammer spring...guessing around 8-9lb? I really should order one of the digital units...anyway.

Buttoning it all back up - CGW parts are the sear spring, sear pin (factory sear pin was a victim of me grabbing 600 grit vs 2000 grit when polishing it, and took it down too much), hammer spring, trigger return spring, firing pin/retaining pin/spring, firing pin block spring - all other parts are factory CZ - I found in testing...decocking would actually let the hammer go all the way down, like contacting the firing pin all the way down. Normally CZs decock to "half cock" or the little shelf before it's all the way down...mine isn't. Every now and again it'd catch on the half cock ledge but pushing the hammer back in and it'd slip and contact the firing pin. If I manually pulled the hammer back to half cock, it was in solid - it would only do this, when decocking via the levers. It was as if the sear wasn't coming all of the way down to catch the half cock ledge...or, the hammer has an issue maybe? Anyway.

I think the previous owner made some changes...all my bubba smithing was to parts exclusive of the hammer and sear mating surfaces. I tried replacing the sear spring with the factory unit, hell I put the entire bottom end back the way it came when I bought it - still drops all the way down when decocking. I'm GUESSING the previous owner may have messed with the hammer a bit. I honestly cannot recall if this was a problem before all of this, but it very well may have been an issue since day one and I just never noticed it. Since it's doing it with all the factory bits in the lower...I'm confident it wasn't any of my messing around with things that caused it.

So, remediation - ordered a new factory hammer and disconnector, and may order a new trigger bar too. Let's see if I can make it function like the way it should have been from the factory first, before I start getting that annoyed with it...maybe this thing was janky from the start, and maybe I'm cleaning up the misdeeds of the previous owner. It would certainly explain some things..

[Biggy]

Would an 18 lb recoil spring be the best all around recoil spring weight for the P-07 shooting FMJ 124gr or 147gr range ammo and for 124gr +P and 147gr standard pressure FMJ HP ammo ?
Also does anyone make a 14lb hammer spring for the P-07 ?

[Clusterfrack]

Would an 18 lb recoil spring be the best all around recoil spring weight for the P-07 shooting FMJ 124gr or 147gr range ammo and for 124gr +P and 147gr standard pressure FMJ HP ammo ?
Also does anyone make a 14lb hammer spring for the P-07 ?

I like the 18# spring, but you can test a 15# and compare ejection distance. I prefer heavier recoil springs, and it's nicer on the gun especially with +p.

I haven't seen a 14# hammer spring. CGW has 13# and 15#, and I'm gravitating to the 15# for added reliability with harder primer ammo.

[Evil_Ed]

I like the 18# spring, but you can test a 15# and compare ejection distance. I prefer heavier recoil springs, and it's nicer on the gun especially with +p.

I haven't seen a 14# hammer spring. CGW has 13# and 15#, and I'm gravitating to the 15# for added reliability with harder primer ammo.

CZCustom has a 14# spring, but at some point you're just splitting hairs...

Edit - I've played around with 18, 15, 13, and 11 - 15 is probably best bang for buck/least issues over longer term usage, culling data from here, the various CZ forums, and other readings..

[Clusterfrack]

CZCustom has a 14# spring, but at some point you're just splitting hairs...

Edit - I've played around with 18, 15, 13, and 11 - 15 is probably best bang for buck/least issues over longer term usage, culling data from here, the various CZ forums, and other readings..

Agreed. Also, these springs aren't calibrated by NIST, so it's worth testing and buying a batch that work.

[Clusterfrack]

CZ P-07/Holosun EPS project complete, after some fuckery (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?55415-Pistol-Optic-Mounting-Problems-and-Solutions-Thread&p=1429581&viewfull=1#post1429581) with optic mounting. Compared with my 509t2 gun, the new EPS gun conceals slightly but noticeably better. This is due to a smaller optic that sits farther forward.

Milling by Stone Bridge Gunworks (https://stonebridgegunworks.com).
Dawson rear sight: Glock 018-256. 0.225" Tall, 0.125" notch.
Dawson front sight: CZ P10C. 019-529 0.170" Tall x .110"
Note: this sight combination yields BUIS that are barely visible at the bottom of the window. When aligned, the dot is in the middle of the window (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?54342-Low-Backup-Iron-Sights). The bottom of the EPS window is so low that I’m able to use ~OEM height irons.

Below are some pics of the new EPS gun and the older 509t2 gun:
EPS gun, loaded, holstered weighs 2.57lb (41.2oz).
509 gun, TLR8ag, loaded, holstered weighs 2.83lb (45.35oz), or 1/4lb more (noticeable to me)

509t2 window size: 0.66x0.9”
EPS Window Size: 0.63x0.91”

98708
98709
98710
98711

[mizer67]

CZ P-07/Holosun EPS project complete, after some fuckery (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?55415-Pistol-Optic-Mounting-Problems-and-Solutions-Thread&p=1429581&viewfull=1#post1429581) with optic mounting. Compared with my 509t2 gun, the new EPS gun conceals slightly but noticeably better. This is due to a smaller optic that sits farther forward.

Clusterfrack, is this the full sized EPS? Holosun's naming convention on this model leaves a little to be desired.

I need to get my P07 milled when I can actually get my hands on one, but was trying to decide between the EPS and EPS Carry due to the potential for overhang on the trapezoidal P07 slide. I'd almost convinced myself to buy the Carry, although I'd prefer the larger window on the EPS.

[G19Fan]

Clusterfrack, is this the full sized EPS? Holosun's naming convention on this model leaves a little to be desired.

I need to get my P07 milled when I can actually get my hands on one, but was trying to decide between the EPS and EPS Carry due to the potential for overhang on the trapezoidal P07 slide. I'd almost convinced myself to buy the Carry, although I'd prefer the larger window on the EPS.

That looks to me like an eps (not carry)

[Clusterfrack]

Clusterfrack, is this the full sized EPS? Holosun's naming convention on this model leaves a little to be desired.

I need to get my P07 milled when I can actually get my hands on one, but was trying to decide between the EPS and EPS Carry due to the potential for overhang on the trapezoidal P07 slide. I'd almost convinced myself to buy the Carry, although I'd prefer the larger window on the EPS.

That is the EPS. It doesn’t overhang much, and neither does the 509. I dont recommend putting a EPS carry on a P-07.

Here’s a pic from before I put lower BUIS on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221221/444cff85a459ce50727227cf695e41ce.jpg

[Clusterfrack]

Recently spoke to a CZ rep … Asked if any P07 refresh likely and he offered, “should see smaller and lighter P07 and bigger P09!”
Dave

Wait… What??? I’d like to know more. ETA, etc.

[breakingtime91]

That is the EPS. It doesn’t overhang much, and neither does the 509. I dont recommend putting a EPS carry on a P-07.

Here’s a pic from before I put lower BUIS on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221221/444cff85a459ce50727227cf695e41ce.jpg

Is that the 6moa dot?

[Clusterfrack]

Is that the 6moa dot?

No, just a bad picture. I have the 2moa because that’s what was available. I don’t have a strong preference.

[Thy.Will.Be.Done]

Were these ever confirmed to be discontinued?

[Clusterfrack]

Were these ever confirmed to be discontinued?

Not that I’m aware of.

[gprean]

That is the EPS. It doesn’t overhang much, and neither does the 509. I dont recommend putting a EPS carry on a P-07.

Here’s a pic from before I put lower BUIS on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221221/444cff85a459ce50727227cf695e41ce.jpg

Out of curiosity, why would you not recommend an EPS Carry on a P-07?

Your low-witness looks great, btw.

[Evil_Ed]

Can anyone get a photo of the inside of the frame where the trigger bar runs to the rear of the frame on the inside?

Short version - mine won't reset during dryfire practice sometimes. Mostly DA pulls but I don't see why it couldn't happen with SA, either...I just don't usually dry-fire practice in SA in this gun.

With all factory parts/springs, or Cajun parts/springs or any mix thereof...it seems as if the trigger bar won't pop back up, like it's caught on something.

I've replaced:
Trigger bar spring (no bending or tweaking on the new one)
Trigger bar, CZ factory
Hammer and disconnector, CZ factory (for another issue; decocking would drop it all the way down sometimes; appears previous owner may have messed with it - new hammer/disco allows it to drop to the half cock notch reliably now)
I've tried CGW .220, factory/.223, and .225 CGW rollers
Sear pin with a CGW unit, and have a new factory sear pin just in case as well
Sear spring (tried with factory, CGW heavy/natural, and CGW light/blue)
Hammer spring (tried factory, CGW yellow, CGW gold, CGW blue...ironically the yellow feels the best)

The only internal parts I have not replaced/tested with replacements are the decocker levers on either right or left side, decocker spring, sear, and the firing pin safety lifter arm.

I was able to catch it when the slide was off when this occured, and the trigger bar was stuck down...pressing the hammer to the left would allow it to reset, the trigger bar would pop up. The trigger bar was not in contact with any of the parts above it (so right side decocker lever, lifter arm, etc)...it just wouldn't pop up like you'd expect.

So I'm wondering at this point if there's some kind of frame defect; like a piece of flashing, or one of the features on the inside was mismolded, or something...but I don't have a gun to compare it to. I'm considering just hitting the inside with a 2000 grit piece of sandpaper, but if I don't know what it should look like...I'm concerned about making it worse.

Edited to add - one thing I did notice, the trigger arm likes to move laterally as well as vertically...it was snug against the frame when it wouldn't pop back up. I wish I had a 3rd hand to get some photos of it...sigh.

Honestly if I can't figure this out I might just sell it and buy another at this point...I'm thinking this was why the original owner sold his in the first place. I'm just willing to mess with it more before moving it on :o

[Clusterfrack]

Out of curiosity, why would you not recommend an EPS Carry on a P-07?

Your low-witness looks great, btw.

The P-07 is already not ultra compact. Why sacrifice window size for a marginal difference in concealability?

I’d put the EPS carry on a 365.

[Clusterfrack]

Can anyone get a photo of the inside of the frame where the trigger bar runs to the rear of the frame on the inside?

Short version - mine won't reset during dryfire practice sometimes. Mostly DA pulls but I don't see why it couldn't happen with SA, either...I just don't usually dry-fire practice in SA in this gun.

With all factory parts/springs, or Cajun parts/springs or any mix thereof...it seems as if the trigger bar won't pop back up, like it's caught on something.

I've replaced:
Trigger bar spring (no bending or tweaking on the new one)
Trigger bar, CZ factory
Hammer and disconnector, CZ factory (for another issue; decocking would drop it all the way down sometimes; appears previous owner may have messed with it - new hammer/disco allows it to drop to the half cock notch reliably now)
I've tried CGW .220, factory/.223, and .225 CGW rollers
Sear pin with a CGW unit, and have a new factory sear pin just in case as well
Sear spring (tried with factory, CGW heavy/natural, and CGW light/blue)
Hammer spring (tried factory, CGW yellow, CGW gold, CGW blue...ironically the yellow feels the best)

The only internal parts I have not replaced/tested with replacements are the decocker levers on either right or left side, decocker spring, sear, and the firing pin safety lifter arm.

I was able to catch it when the slide was off when this occured, and the trigger bar was stuck down...pressing the hammer to the left would allow it to reset, the trigger bar would pop up. The trigger bar was not in contact with any of the parts above it (so right side decocker lever, lifter arm, etc)...it just wouldn't pop up like you'd expect.

So I'm wondering at this point if there's some kind of frame defect; like a piece of flashing, or one of the features on the inside was mismolded, or something...but I don't have a gun to compare it to. I'm considering just hitting the inside with a 2000 grit piece of sandpaper, but if I don't know what it should look like...I'm concerned about making it worse.

Edited to add - one thing I did notice, the trigger arm likes to move laterally as well as vertically...it was snug against the frame when it wouldn't pop back up. I wish I had a 3rd hand to get some photos of it...sigh.

Honestly if I can't figure this out I might just sell it and buy another at this point...I'm thinking this was why the original owner sold his in the first place. I'm just willing to mess with it more before moving it on :o

Ugh. That sounds like a hassle. Does this image help?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221222/8b22e2e46a58e2b7618f3a852f8926a6.jpg

Here’s one of how the trigger bar should interface with the disco.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221222/97a314859d31be41f825203e605a8fc4.jpg

Have you tried swapping in the thumb safety levers to rule out the decocker?

I’d like to see some pics as well.

[claymore504]

Sounds lile something is slightly out of spec. If it has this issue in all stock configuration, I would contact CZ and let them take care of it.

[1More]

Can anyone get a photo of the inside of the frame where the trigger bar runs to the rear of the frame on the inside?

Short version - mine won't reset during dryfire practice sometimes. Mostly DA pulls but I don't see why it couldn't happen with SA, either...I just don't usually dry-fire practice in SA in this gun.

With all factory parts/springs, or Cajun parts/springs or any mix thereof...it seems as if the trigger bar won't pop back up, like it's caught on something.

I've replaced:
Trigger bar spring (no bending or tweaking on the new one)
Trigger bar, CZ factory
Hammer and disconnector, CZ factory (for another issue; decocking would drop it all the way down sometimes; appears previous owner may have messed with it - new hammer/disco allows it to drop to the half cock notch reliably now)
I've tried CGW .220, factory/.223, and .225 CGW rollers
Sear pin with a CGW unit, and have a new factory sear pin just in case as well
Sear spring (tried with factory, CGW heavy/natural, and CGW light/blue)
Hammer spring (tried factory, CGW yellow, CGW gold, CGW blue...ironically the yellow feels the best)

The only internal parts I have not replaced/tested with replacements are the decocker levers on either right or left side, decocker spring, sear, and the firing pin safety lifter arm.

I was able to catch it when the slide was off when this occured, and the trigger bar was stuck down...pressing the hammer to the left would allow it to reset, the trigger bar would pop up. The trigger bar was not in contact with any of the parts above it (so right side decocker lever, lifter arm, etc)...it just wouldn't pop up like you'd expect.

So I'm wondering at this point if there's some kind of frame defect; like a piece of flashing, or one of the features on the inside was mismolded, or something...but I don't have a gun to compare it to. I'm considering just hitting the inside with a 2000 grit piece of sandpaper, but if I don't know what it should look like...I'm concerned about making it worse.

Edited to add - one thing I did notice, the trigger arm likes to move laterally as well as vertically...it was snug against the frame when it wouldn't pop back up. I wish I had a 3rd hand to get some photos of it...sigh.

Honestly if I can't figure this out I might just sell it and buy another at this point...I'm thinking this was why the original owner sold his in the first place. I'm just willing to mess with it more before moving it on :o

If you have not already done so, ensure your trigger bar spring is fully seated in the hole it goes into. I had a similar issue years ago with my P07 Duty after replacing the trigger bar spring. It turned out, when I reinserted the trigger bar spring on reassembly, I inserted it to where it seemed firmly seated. However, although it seemed firmly seated and would reassemble without issue, the dead trigger/ failure to reset would return. Eventually I caught on to the proper depth it should be inserted to and ensured that it was properly and fully seated. All issues went away after that.

[foxj66]

Were these ever confirmed to be discontinued?

If you are referring to the P-07 the black version is still an active sku for 2023.

[Evil_Ed]

Ugh. That sounds like a hassle. Does this image help?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221222/8b22e2e46a58e2b7618f3a852f8926a6.jpg

Here’s one of how the trigger bar should interface with the disco.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221222/97a314859d31be41f825203e605a8fc4.jpg

Have you tried swapping in the thumb safety levers to rule out the decocker?

I’d like to see some pics as well.

Thanks - no I haven't tried the thumb safety swap...I'd never use it, so while it might be interesting from a debugging perspective...it won't be that helpful for me, though I could easily order another decocker lever set and try that :)

I spent a little bit messing around with it some more and I think, maybe I might have a good idea as to the why and how...so, it only happens on the DA pull, and it only happens with the slide on. I thought I had replicated it with the slide off, but I didn't; it was hung up on something else (my nitrile glove, actually).

I found if I slide the slide on and just stick the slide stop half-way through so it's not fully seated and test...the same thing happens. If I seat the slide all the way on and test until I get a dead trigger, if I move the slide a bit in any direction, like literally tap it against a table - there's a click and the trigger re-connects. Dead trigger - grab slide and barely push it back and click-reset.

I think there's some tolerance stacking somewhere with the slide and frame. I've also noticed that even with this brand-spanking new hammer and this %100 unaltered sear, fresh from the factory bag, it will still randomly and occasionally not fall to half cock but go all the way down to the firing pin when decocking with a brief stutter at the half cock shelf on the hammer. I don't think the lifter is activated when doing this so the firing pin safety should still in theory be intact, but it's still kind of wtf. After 10 tries and it doing that 5 times in a row, now it's going to half cock securely so I don't know if it was an excess lube issue that just worked itself out, or if there's some other weird issue going on. At this point it's factory parts in the lower half (either new parts I replaced, or original ones that came with the gun) - the only aftermarket parts are CGW sear and hammer springs. Maybe I should try the CGW heavy sear spring...anyway.

I think at this point, I can either contact CZ and take advantage of their 5 year warranty, or flip it with disclosure and buy another new one...or, both..

[Evil_Ed]

If you have not already done so, ensure your trigger bar spring is fully seated in the hole it goes into. I had a similar issue years ago with my P07 Duty after replacing the trigger bar spring. It turned out, when I reinserted the trigger bar spring on reassembly, I inserted it to where it seemed firmly seated. However, although it seemed firmly seated and would reassemble without issue, the dead trigger/ failure to reset would return. Eventually I caught on to the proper depth it should be inserted to and ensured that it was properly and fully seated. All issues went away after that.

It's in as far and as deep as it can go, same with the trigger return spring...good idea, but sadly not the culprit for me.

[Clusterfrack]

Thanks - no I haven't tried the thumb safety swap...I'd never use it, so while it might be interesting from a debugging perspective...it won't be that helpful for me, though I could easily order another decocker lever set and try that :)

I spent a little bit messing around with it some more and I think, maybe I might have a good idea as to the why and how...so, it only happens on the DA pull, and it only happens with the slide on. I thought I had replicated it with the slide off, but I didn't; it was hung up on something else (my nitrile glove, actually).

I found if I slide the slide on and just stick the slide stop half-way through so it's not fully seated and test...the same thing happens. If I seat the slide all the way on and test until I get a dead trigger, if I move the slide a bit in any direction, like literally tap it against a table - there's a click and the trigger re-connects. Dead trigger - grab slide and barely push it back and click-reset.

I think there's some tolerance stacking somewhere with the slide and frame. I've also noticed that even with this brand-spanking new hammer and this %100 unaltered sear, fresh from the factory bag, it will still randomly and occasionally not fall to half cock but go all the way down to the firing pin when decocking with a brief stutter at the half cock shelf on the hammer. I don't think the lifter is activated when doing this so the firing pin safety should still in theory be intact, but it's still kind of wtf. After 10 tries and it doing that 5 times in a row, now it's going to half cock securely so I don't know if it was an excess lube issue that just worked itself out, or if there's some other weird issue going on. At this point it's factory parts in the lower half (either new parts I replaced, or original ones that came with the gun) - the only aftermarket parts are CGW sear and hammer springs. Maybe I should try the CGW heavy sear spring...anyway.

I think at this point, I can either contact CZ and take advantage of their 5 year warranty, or flip it with disclosure and buy another new one...or, both..

If it’s decocking all the way down, that’s a dealbreaker in my book. I vote to send it back to CZ.

[Evil_Ed]

Yup, I already put a request in on their website. I swapped back to factory original parts and springs back all around, and wouldn't you know it...it does the same thing with factory parts. I don't know how I didn't notice it...well, I think I do actually; I doubt I ever dry fired it more than once or twice when I got it, because I know the factory firing pin retaining pin is tin foil that likes to explode. So the first thing I did when I got it was drag a credit card through CGW and order a bunch of springs and the upper end parts, and didn't even touch the gun until after I replaced a bunch of stuff.

Oddly enough it's even more pronounced with the factory parts in...I think believe it or not the hammer goes too far forward. It's REALLY obvious with the factory firing pin. I don't have any explanation for the decocker bit though...other than, maybe the sear pin hole is off, or maybe the hammer pin hole is just off, etc...who knows.

In the mean time...my PX4 compact is getting a whole lotta love anyway..

[claymore504]

CZ has great CS and should take care of it. If they can't fix your gun, they do not hesitate to send a new one from what I have seen. Keep us posted.

[Evil_Ed]

CZ has great CS and should take care of it. If they can't fix your gun, they do not hesitate to send a new one from what I have seen. Keep us posted.

I got a response today with a FedEx label, so they're on the ball even after a holiday weekend, which is promising. They said 4-6 weeks due to their current workload. I'm hoping to get it out today.

And, I called a local store also on Friday and left a message (I guess they were closed for the holiday) asking if they had an 07 in stock as a hedge...got a call back from them today saying they ordered one and it should be here in a couple of days. The price wasn't "Great", but when you factor in current prices from Buds, GrabAGun, etc - throw in the dealer's vig, shipping and tax...it works out to be broadly the same as if I had ordered one from the big online retailers and had it shipped anyway. And, it helps keep the local guy in business, which is nice. So I'll pick that one up in a couple of days as well.

Hmm so now I'll have two of these things...guess one needs to go for an optics cut now.

[claymore504]

I got a response today with a FedEx label, so they're on the ball even after a holiday weekend, which is promising. They said 4-6 weeks due to their current workload. I'm hoping to get it out today.

And, I called a local store also on Friday and left a message (I guess they were closed for the holiday) asking if they had an 07 in stock as a hedge...got a call back from them today saying they ordered one and it should be here in a couple of days. The price wasn't "Great", but when you factor in current prices from Buds, GrabAGun, etc - throw in the dealer's vig, shipping and tax...it works out to be broadly the same as if I had ordered one from the big online retailers and had it shipped anyway. And, it helps keep the local guy in business, which is nice. So I'll pick that one up in a couple of days as well.

Hmm so now I'll have two of these things...guess one needs to go for an optics cut now.

Glad to hear they got back with you quickly. Also, dont forget to apply for your $50 rebate from CZ with that new P07.

[Clusterfrack]

Hmm so now I'll have two of these things...guess one needs to go for an optics cut now.

What is the saying? 2 is 1, 1 is...? I have 4 of them if its any consolation.

What optic will you cut for?

[Evil_Ed]

What is the saying? 2 is 1, 1 is...? I have 4 of them if its any consolation.

What optic will you cut for?

Frankly, no idea. I don't even really know what's out there. Is there anyone that offers a plate-based setup like the AOS, or i-Dot system, or something like what LTT offers? My fear is getting the slide cut for an optic, only to have the optic fail X years down the line and it's out of production and the footprint is dead. Yeah it's a slim thing, but there's also the whole "what if I don't want to be forever locked into this one style of optic"...if I get it cut for an RMR, it'll pretty much never be compatible with any kind of enclosed optic later down the line. Though I guess Sig's blurring that line now, aren't they...anyway.

Right now the only optic I have that's not got a host is a Steiner MPS, though I may wind up throwing that on a Glock.

Though it does look like ATEi offers MPS/Acro cuts for CZ...

[Clusterfrack]

Frankly, no idea. I don't even really know what's out there. Is there anyone that offers a plate-based setup like the AOS, or i-Dot system, or something like what LTT offers? My fear is getting the slide cut for an optic, only to have the optic fail X years down the line and it's out of production and the footprint is dead. Yeah it's a slim thing, but there's also the whole "what if I don't want to be forever locked into this one style of optic"...if I get it cut for an RMR, it'll pretty much never be compatible with any kind of enclosed optic later down the line. Though I guess Sig's blurring that line now, aren't they...anyway.

Right now the only optic I have that's not got a host is a Steiner MPS, though I may wind up throwing that on a Glock.

Though it does look like ATEi offers MPS/Acro cuts for CZ...

I’m guessing the EPS/RMSc footprint is a pretty safe bet long term. I’m running OEM height buis with that setup. But my favorite is the 509.

I have no idea about plates for the P07 because I hate plates. I’d rather have to buy an extra slide or gun than do a plate.

[FreedomFries]

I’m guessing the EPS/RMSc footprint is a pretty safe bet long term. I’m running OEM height buis with that setup. But my favorite is the 509.

I have no idea about plates for the P07 because I hate plates. I’d rather have to buy an extra slide or gun than do a plate.

I just sent 2x P07 slides to Stonebridge based on your positive experiences with them. They had a DPP pattern listed, but I asked them if their cut was compatible with the Romeo 1 Pro and Romeo 2 they said they could omit the recoil bosses to fit those optics. They have it listed on the website now too as a Romeo 1 Pro and Romeo 2 option. My plan was to race cut the slide without a BUIS because the Romeo2 has pretty useable built in rear BUIS that is lightly serrated and glare free. Then I only have to worry about zeroing the optic and then buying a front sight to cowitness with the built in rear BUIS. My goal was to avoid putting a rear BUIS in front of the optic which may necessitate the removal of more material from my holster. I've had an issue with tall front sights where if the holster's red dot cut is too far down, then the front sight snags my waistband on the way out.


Frankly, no idea. I don't even really know what's out there. Is there anyone that offers a plate-based setup like the AOS, or i-Dot system, or something like what LTT offers? My fear is getting the slide cut for an optic, only to have the optic fail X years down the line and it's out of production and the footprint is dead. Yeah it's a slim thing, but there's also the whole "what if I don't want to be forever locked into this one style of optic"...if I get it cut for an RMR, it'll pretty much never be compatible with any kind of enclosed optic later down the line. Though I guess Sig's blurring that line now, aren't they...anyway.

Right now the only optic I have that's not got a host is a Steiner MPS, though I may wind up throwing that on a Glock.

Though it does look like ATEi offers MPS/Acro cuts for CZ...

All of the military M17/M18 pistols have a DPP/Romeo 1 Pro type cut so I'm hoping this will be a useable footprint for at least 10 years. I read the Australian army adopted the Romeo 2 recently.

[Evil_Ed]

All of the military M17/M18 pistols have a DPP/Romeo 1 Pro type cut so I'm hoping this will be a useable footprint for at least 10 years. I read the Australian army adopted the Romeo 2 recently.

Yeah, but would you really put it past Uncle Sugar to specify DPP cut slides, and then start issuing RMRs or ACROs?

[Evil_Ed]

i give up, it won't let me reply to this with anything other than what's here (pretty literally)...constant 403s

[Clusterfrack]

i give up, it won't let me reply to this with anything other than what's here (pretty literally)...constant 403s

LL is aware of the issue. Thanks for your patience.

[Evil_Ed]

So, picked up the new P07 on Friday, disassembled, fluffed/buffed (all I really touched was the giant flat side of the trigger bar; a piece of 2k grit sandpaper on a piece of glass smoothed it right out), cleaned/lubed, and got it to the range today. No spring or part changes or tweaks beyond the fluff and buff; no bending of any springs, etc. As it is it's really servicable; no real stacking in DA anymore, and SA is fine for what it is. I have CGW springs on order to lighten it even further but that's just preference and not necessity. Anyway...

I had two identical malfunctions, both bolt-over-base/stovepipe of live rounds:

99458

Both of them were this exact circumstance; 15 round mag (different one each time), next to last round, bullet up - I didn't get a photo of the first time, but dropped the mag and got a photo of the second time. Ammo was Winchester 124gr NATO, as marked on the box (plain white box). That was the only ammo this happened on, though the round count was abbreviated; first occurance was in the first 40 or so rounds, last occurrence was within the last 30 rounds of the 124gr NATO stuff. In 1911land this would be indicative of either a too-weak mag spring, or a marginal mag spring tied with a too strong recoil spring...it's really easy to induce on a really short 1911 (say Detonics) with mag springs that have gone through more than 8 or 10 cycles. I dunno what it would be on this platform though, other than...it could just be a Winchester thing...wouldn't be the first time their stuff just caused weird malfunctions in things...

Total round count was 169 - 100 of the white box 124gr NATO, 50 147gr Federal, and 19 HST 124gr +P.

I stopped it there because it was cutting up my hand :eek:

99459

The bottom one was from the mold/flash line through the middle of the beavertail...the right one was from the bottom of the right side decocker lever. That picture was from after I washed my hands and washed the blood and plasma away...the cut on the left inside of my thumb was from a revolver, I'll get into that one in a different thread :o

I hit both the bottom of the decocker lever and the mold seam both with 600 then polished with 2000 grit, and both are much smoother now. I don't anticipate either will tear skin anymore. And I even found a P07 w/TLR7 and optic cut JMCK AIWB in my stash of holsters...another 400 or 500 rounds and I could be convinced to get it cut for an optic so long as it doesn't choke on me again.

[Evil_Ed]

LL is aware of the issue. Thanks for your patience.

Some judicious editing of the copy/pasted of my original post I had saved and that seemed to do it..

[Evil_Ed]

Two days later...

99533

Gonna be a little while before I take it out again :o The mold seam line I'm not too worried about...it's the decocker that really rubbed me the wrong way that I'm not so sure about. I should order a spare and see what happens if I shorten it considerably.

[Biggy]

I’m guessing the EPS/RMSc footprint is a pretty safe bet long term. I’m running OEM height buis with that setup. But my favorite is the 509.

I have no idea about plates for the P07 because I hate plates. I’d rather have to buy an extra slide or gun than do a plate.

Why do you prefer the 509 over the EPS ? I think I would prefer the 509’s mounting system more than the EPS, but I think I would prefer I could use a shorter front sight with the EPS. Are they comparable in glass clarity, tint and dot crispness ? I hear they are using a larger screw size for the battery compartment door and maybe an improved gasket on the EPS / EPS carry to help with some of the known issues with moisture getting inside of the 509. Do you know if they have done the same with the 509 ?

[Clusterfrack]

Why do you prefer the 509 over the EPS ? I think I would prefer the 509’s mounting system more than the EPS, but I think I would prefer I could use a shorter front sight with the EPS. Are they comparable in glass clarity, tint and dot crispness ? I hear they are using a larger screw size for the battery compartment door and maybe an improved gasket on the EPS / EPS carry to help with some of the known issues with moisture getting inside of the 509. Do you know if they have done the same with the 509 ?

Sorry for the delay in responding. I just got back from a backcountry camping/rifle shooting trip.

I prefer the 509t2 over the EPS because of the cross-bolt clamp mounting system. As well, the 509 has a titanium housing, and at least feels more rugged than the EPS.

To my eyes, and with the small sample size of 3 509t2's and 1 EPS, the optics and dot are comparable.

The 509t2 on my P-07 has been subjected to rough treatment and conditions (rain, 10F temp, dust, etc.), and continues to work as new. I don't know if the 2nd gen 509 has a similar battery seal to the EPS, but it sure looks like it.

I tested my EPS by submerging it in a glass of water for 10min. I'll be doing that with every closed emitter optic I buy in the future.

[Evil_Ed]

Heard back from CZ today:



Description: CZ P-07 9MM 15RD

Work Performed: Adjusted sear to hammer for better fit/function. replaced trigger bar disconnector. Adjusted hammer disconnector face. Functions checked and test fired good with CCI Blazer 9mm 115gr FMJ.


Man, they couldn't even spring for Speer Lawman? Sigh...:rolleyes:

In all seriousness, that's pretty damn good. What, 15 days or so after it left my hands, including the weekend and New Years? Not bad, to be honest. I dunno if it'll be back in my hands this week or not, but we'll see. The funny thing was the disconnector was new, as was the hammer and trigger bar...I had replaced them earlier with new parts on the chance that the guy who had it before me messed with things on the hammer/disco/bar. So I guess there's other sizes in the mix out there, like the bearing has various factory sizes...

Anyway, we'll see how it is when it comes back in - my new one I just dropped a 15lb hammer spring, reduced trigger return spring, and the usual upper end firing pin/spring/retaining pin/block spring - DA trigger dropped around 2lb - to about 7.5lb +- - but otherwise kept the same characteristics - a little bit stagy towards the end of the pull but certainly manageable. Didn't try replacing the roller bearing...I might try that later and see what that does, if anything. I have all these parts still for the other gun on it's way back, and I'll see how that one reacts with these updates as well when I get it.

[Evil_Ed]

Problem child is back home; a quick 5 minute dry fire/manipulation session showed zero problems with reset when dry firing from full decock against the pin, half decock (position when using decocking lever), and when cocked. Decocking comes down to the half cock position always; no full to the pin and no sort of catching on the half cock notch (before it would either go all the way down or sort of catch on the ledge, I'd have to pull the hammer back a little bit for it to fully seat).

This is good! Later I'll re-fit all the springs and whatnot, and give it another try...now I've got two of these things :rolleyes:

[Clusterfrack]

Problem child is back home; a quick 5 minute dry fire/manipulation session showed zero problems with reset when dry firing from full decock against the pin, half decock (position when using decocking lever), and when cocked. Decocking comes down to the half cock position always; no full to the pin and no sort of catching on the half cock notch (before it would either go all the way down or sort of catch on the ledge, I'd have to pull the hammer back a little bit for it to fully seat).

This is good! Later I'll re-fit all the springs and whatnot, and give it another try...now I've got two of these things :rolleyes:

That's great news. When you take it apart, I'm curious if there's any visible alterations to the hammer and sear surfaces. And, I wonder if a CGW hammer would work?

[45dotACP]

Got my P09 slide back from Jaegerwerks. Wanted to see the effect of the RDS on the gun. Running the target out to 20 yards and just breaking a shot as the dot settles on to the bull. Certainly the round that broke high was my own fault.

The other four are hanging out in a group just a bit under 2" I think. The gun is certainly more accurate than I am.

Probly gotta adjust the sight though lol

If there's an optic ready P07 coming down the pike, I'm absolutely on board. If not, maybe the P07 is gonna get cut for a EPS or something similar. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230116/a40525c07e6c80455e86b28f128334e0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230116/6953a1e17929a6828169b7eceb088b67.jpg

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[FreedomFries]

100896
100897
100898

I took this out today. 28 in lbs of torque per screw with loctite stick. About 100 rounds today and everything is holding up well so far. Stonebridge did the mill job for the Romeo2.

Built in rear BUIS on the Romeo2. The front sight is Dawson .330 height. The BUIS has a significant 6 o'clock hold at 20-25 yards. I am thinking about increasing the height on the front sight but I might skip it because it's good enough for a BUIS that can't be windage adjusted perfectly anyway. Also, the next step up from Dawson is .370 and that may be too much of an increase.

This was in the rain, so I got some rust at the very edge of the milling when I emptied out my range bag at home. Also, I noticed my Romeo2 has almost no detent on the windage screw, but it hasn't moved under recoil yet.

[Clusterfrack]

...The BUIS has a significant 6 o'clock hold at 20-25 yards. I am thinking about increasing the height on the front sight but I might skip it because it's good enough for a BUIS that can't be windage adjusted perfectly anyway. Also, the next step up from Dawson is .370 and that may be too much of an increase.

This was in the rain, so I got some rust at the very edge of the milling when I emptied out my range bag at home. Also, I noticed my Romeo2 has almost no detent on the windage screw, but it hasn't moved under recoil yet.

Awesome setup! I prefer that "low irons" 6:00 hold because it puts the POI in the center of the window. If the dot goes out, I don't have to lower my index down to the level of the irons. I simply confirm alignment of the irons at the bottom of the window, but aim in the middle. I found that more than acceptable for targets out to 20yds.

I sprayed One Shot lube on the milling, and that seems to prevent rust. You could also try a thin coating of E6000 craft glue, which seems to help retain optics in mounts. But it does make them a little more of a hassle to remove.

[FreedomFries]

Awesome setup! I prefer that "low irons" 6:00 hold because it puts the POI in the center of the window. If the dot goes out, I don't have to lower my index down to the level of the irons. I simply confirm alignment of the irons at the bottom of the window, but aim in the middle. I found that more than acceptable for targets out to 20yds.

I sprayed One Shot lube on the milling, and that seems to prevent rust. You could also try a thin coating of E6000 craft glue, which seems to help retain optics in mounts. But it does make them a little more of a hassle to remove.

I wiped it off with some Slip 2000 and hopefully some wicked into the edges a bit. It's a fairly cheap plastic blaster so I'm not worried about the finish that much.

As far as the sights go, I think you've got a good suggestion with purposely going for a 6 o'clock hold. Neither built in rear sight for the Romeo 1 Pro or Romeo 2 offer great sight pictures anyway. The Romeo 1 Pro has a very shallow notch and the Romeo 2 does not have a crisp top edge due to the chamfering of the rear and the sharpness of the edge at the front of the counterbore for the elevation screw access.

[Biggy]

I plan on getting one of the commercial more universal versions of the new Sig Romeo M17 MRDS when they become available. Hopefully I will be able to get Primary Machine to do the slide optic cut on my P-07. So far I have been really impressed with my Cajunized P-07 pistol’s performance. It has been 100% reliable and very accurate and has had no problem handling the newest version HST 147 FMJHP ammo. Other than installing some Cajun parts the only things *I* needed to improve on my pistol were my preference in iron sights and more aggressive texturing on the removable back strap. Thanks to the install vids on CZ forum, a small clamp on table vice and a few small hand tools, installing the CGW parts was easy. I have settled on using a 15 lb hammer spring and to me my pistols DA/SA is now all I need in a carry gun.

[star-dot-star]

Does anyone make an aftermarket slide stop? So far my search has been unfruitful.

With my support hand in a thumb forward position resting on the pad, the slide stop sits very close to my knuckle. Using hot rounds I find its sharp edge impacting just underneath the knuckle no matter how hard I try to grip the pistol and a range day can leave a cut. I've debated grinding the leading edge of the slide stop to round it off and then recoat. Changing hand position is not an option because it is habit now on any handgun.

[TicTacticalTimmy]

Get to grinding!

The slide stop is a wear item on high round counts anyway, so if you mess it up worse case scenario you can keep it for a spare.

[claymore504]

Does anyone make an aftermarket slide stop? So far my search has been unfruitful.

With my support hand in a thumb forward position resting on the pad, the slide stop sits very close to my knuckle. Using hot rounds I find its sharp edge impacting just underneath the knuckle no matter how hard I try to grip the pistol and a range day can leave a cut. I've debated grinding the leading edge of the slide stop to round it off and then recoat. Changing hand position is not an option because it is habit now on any handgun.

CZ Custom makes one. I have not used it. Looks like it has much more of a shelf than stock. Not sure I will prefer that over stock.

https://czcustom.com/catalog/product/view/id/37450/s/czc-shadow-2-ts-p01-slide-stop/category/210/

[Clusterfrack]

CZ Custom makes one. I have not used it. Looks like it has much more of a shelf than stock. Not sure I will prefer that over stock.

https://czcustom.com/catalog/product/view/id/37450/s/czc-shadow-2-ts-p01-slide-stop/category/210/

I've got one on the way from the Ben Stoeger Pro Shop. (CZC showed in stock, but insufficient items available to order 1 unit). Interesting that the same slide stop fits the S2 and P-07. I really don't like gas pedals, but when I used to shoot p320s I liked the orginal wide thumbrest slide stop.

[star-dot-star]

CZ Custom makes one. I have not used it. Looks like it has much more of a shelf than stock. Not sure I will prefer that over stock.

https://czcustom.com/catalog/product/view/id/37450/s/czc-shadow-2-ts-p01-slide-stop/category/210/


I've got one on the way from the Ben Stoeger Pro Shop. (CZC showed in stock, but insufficient items available to order 1 unit). Interesting that the same slide stop fits the S2 and P-07. I really don't like gas pedals, but when I used to shoot p320s I liked the orginal wide thumbrest slide stop.


Thank you both. I'm going to try one of the low profile models.

[Clusterfrack]

Apparently slide stops for the Shadow2 also fit the P-07. I’ll need to do some testing to confirm.

Top left, OEM P-07 SS. Top right, CZCustom S2 SS. On gun, OEMShadow2 slide stop.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230301/cc26d88e89699d464a0b3f44cd047b98.jpg

[cheby]

As I remember, slide stops for the Shadow2 fit the P-01 as well.

[star-dot-star]

Got my P09 slide back from Jaegerwerks. Wanted to see the effect of the RDS on the gun. Running the target out to 20 yards and just breaking a shot as the dot settles on to the bull. Certainly the round that broke high was my own fault.

The other four are hanging out in a group just a bit under 2" I think. The gun is certainly more accurate than I am.

Probly gotta adjust the sight though lol

If there's an optic ready P07 coming down the pike, I'm absolutely on board. If not, maybe the P07 is gonna get cut for a EPS or something similar. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230116/a40525c07e6c80455e86b28f128334e0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230116/6953a1e17929a6828169b7eceb088b67.jpg

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What finish is on the slide?

[45dotACP]

What finish is on the slide?I think its the OD green cerakote?

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[Clusterfrack]

P-07 slide stops in stock at CZ Custom
https://czcustom.com/p07-slide-stop.html

Out of stock already at CGW.

[David S.]

CGW trigger return spring broken. I'd guess something like 10k trigger presses in a P-09.

83522

I broke my second CGW TRS today in another P-09. This time it was the long leg. Similar trigger pulls as above.


Gun isn't clean, but fairly well lubed.

[1More]

My mutt P07 Duty finally got her Night Fision rear sight. Sight arrived yesterday, and I was able to hit the range with it today. The rear partners with the Dawson Low fiber optic front very well. Today was primarily one arm drills with several pistols to see if any were ahead of the rest, in line with my recent 'If you could only use one arm' thread. The P07 is comparatively excellent - the front sight tracks very well and the trigger (mix of CGW parts to include CZ85 trigger) was fast and precise. The Dawson shows extremely well thought the Night Fision Square rear. Additionally, although the top of the breech face allows one arm slide manipulation, the Night Fision makes one arm work with the gun much simpler.
Thanks to Clusterfrack for past comments about sight setups.

104281

[Clusterfrack]

...Night Fision rear sight. Sight arrived yesterday...

Nice! Were you able to purchase just the rear sight?

[1More]

Nice! Were you able to purchase just the rear sight?

I just ordered the combo so I had the Night Fision front as an alternate on my tool bench.

[awp_101]

These green things came with my 07. Does anyone know what they are or what they're used for?

109047

1More, I thought the "Duty" guns were the original/Gen 1 design but I'm seeing some with 20-21 date codes marked Duty. Did CZ bring that line back?

[Clusterfrack]

These green things came with my 07. Does anyone know what they are or what they're used for?

109047
1More, I thought the "Duty" guns were the original/Gen 1 design but I'm seeing some with 20-21 date codes marked Duty. Did CZ bring that line back?

The green things are inserts for the dummy round that it shipped with. I’d use a o ring or earplug for dry fire instead.

“Duty”? Interesting. No clue.

[awp_101]

Thanks! I bought it used w/low round count and it looks like I got everything BUT the dummy round. I'll dig though the case again.

The Duty marked pistols came to my attention several years ago during my first go 'round with P07s. I was finding them on the auction sites for much less than unmarked 07s and some digging turned up most were some kind of PD trade ins from Mexico and produced sometime in the late 00s-early 10s. I don't recall if it was on one of the CZ forums or where, but I got the impression the newer ones at that time (17-18 time frame) were a Gen 2 product improved version.

EDIT: Looks like what I saw a day or two ago is a seller mislabel. All the ones I can find marked "Duty" are 2012 dated and the one listed specifically as being a Duty is a suppressor ready model without a picture of the other side showing the date code. Considering the Duty line was discontinued 2014 according to the CZ-USA website and the SR models didn't start until ~2019-ish, I'm going with a seller screw up. FWIW the CZ European site shows a .380 version which would make my carpal tunnel happier...

[fatdog]

Getting ready to embark on a P7 experience, so some modification questions, my assumptions are mostly based on info from this thread. My context will be traditional DA and a street gun, not a competition gun.

1. Are the sights easy to move with a sight pusher? I am planning on a Nightfission U notch and orange outline front which will match most of my iron sights on other platforms. I know some brands of pistol have pressed in sights that are harder to move.

2. This will be a street gun, so as far as Cajunizing I had planned just to do their basic spring kit (https://cajungunworks.com/product/p-series-complete-upgrade-spring-kit/), not the hammer, roller bearing, short reset stuff initially. Is that spring kit really what gets me to a more shootable gun in DA mode, and say 50% of the Cajun improvements?

3. Since it will be going to that lighter 15lb hammer spring in that kit, does their extended firing pin really add much in terms of reliablity?

4. I am assuming that the full size P10/P09 magazines will work just fine with the P-07 and that the shoulder of the mag prevents over insertion just like the longer magazines for the larger platforms do in Glock, Sig P22X, HK USP/c and the P30 mags, and I don't need to worry about some sort of basepad modification if these are used as the reload magazines I am carrying. Is that correct?

Thanks to #Clusterfrack (https://pistol-forum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=Clusterfrack) and all who have contributed to this thread, it is all your fault I am going to blow some money on this project.

[1More]

Getting ready to embark on a P7 experience, so some modification questions, my assumptions are mostly based on info from this thread. My context will be traditional DA and a street gun, not a competition gun.

1. Are the sights easy to move with a sight pusher? I am planning on a Nightfission U notch and orange outline front which will match most of my iron sights on other platforms. I know some brands of pistol have pressed in sights that are harder to move.

2. This will be a street gun, so as far as Cajunizing I had planned just to do their basic spring kit (https://cajungunworks.com/product/p-series-complete-upgrade-spring-kit/), not the hammer, roller bearing, short reset stuff initially. Is that spring kit really what gets me to a more shootable gun in DA mode, and say 50% of the Cajun improvements?

3. Since it will be going to that lighter 15lb hammer spring in that kit, does their extended firing pin really add much in terms of reliablity?

4. I am assuming that the full size P10/P09 magazines will work just fine with the P-07 and that the shoulder of the mag prevents over insertion just like the longer magazines for the larger platforms do in Glock, Sig P22X, HK USP/c and the P30 mags, and I don't need to worry about some sort of basepad modification if these are used as the reload magazines I am carrying. Is that correct?

Thanks to #Clusterfrack (https://pistol-forum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=Clusterfrack) and all who have contributed to this thread, it is all your fault I am going to blow some money on this project.

1. I was able to easily install my Nightfission rear with a NcSTAR VTUFNR Vism Universal Pistol Front and Rear Sight Tool. In this case, I did not have to do any additional fitting on the rear sight. For my Dawson front, I did have to do a minor bit of fitting.

2. The springs, short reset kit, roller bearing, sear pin, CZ85 trigger and CGW Hammer made a qualitative difference in my gun. Note, my gun is an old Duty purchased new about a decade ago. If I bought a Gen2 tomorrow, I'd start with springs, short reset, and roller. The roller made a nice difference to the trigger in double action...noticeably smoother. Follow the guidelines for measuring and fitting rollers. It is easy to disrupt the timing if you get the roller size far on the wrong end of tolerances. I did run the extended firing pin for a while, but over the years realized that I could get reliability without the compromises. (CGW does great work, I am a fan. I did not contact him about issues I had with my extended firing pin because I decided I'd rather find a reliable setup with a factory pin). Notably, due to the Generational changes and incremental improvements in design of small parts and tolerances, the current stock guns are much better than my original stock Duty, which was a great gun.

3. I usually ran the yellow spring (18#) since I went back to the factory firing pin with the CGW FP Spring; no issues. Notably, I put the Gold (15#) spring in with this setup to evaluate it and have had no problems breaking primers in 2000+ rounds. Between the two, the feel of the double action is consistently the same smoothness (if slightly lighter with the 15#).

4. I've never used P09 mags in my P07, but I have used factory Shadow 2 mags; they function and lock the slide reliably. The shoulder of the mag does stop on the slide release, but I am still careful not to pound the mag in the gun on reloads. For higher capacity, I like the factory P07/P10C mags with the factory +2 base pads (17rds). Also, Sig P226 mags will fit and function fine in the P07, with the exception of locking the slide (and same concerns as S2 mags regarding over insertion). The P226 mags don't lock; in fact I use them for some drills because of that.

*Additional Note: I really like the CGW mod'd CZ85 trigger in my Duty. I didn't care for the original CZ hook trigger, and the Gen2 trigger just did not work well in the Duty for me (both function and feel issues). Additionally, I did put a CGW Extended mag release in mine to address issues caused by frame warping when hitting the release with my firing hand. It's great, and I'd consider putting one in a Gen2 off the rack, even though the Gen2 eliminated the warping.

Good luck

[1More]

Thanks! I bought it used w/low round count and it looks like I got everything BUT the dummy round. I'll dig though the case again.

The Duty marked pistols came to my attention several years ago during my first go 'round with P07s. I was finding them on the auction sites for much less than unmarked 07s and some digging turned up most were some kind of PD trade ins from Mexico and produced sometime in the late 00s-early 10s. I don't recall if it was on one of the CZ forums or where, but I got the impression the newer ones at that time (17-18 time frame) were a Gen 2 product improved version.

EDIT: Looks like what I saw a day or two ago is a seller mislabel. All the ones I can find marked "Duty" are 2012 dated and the one listed specifically as being a Duty is a suppressor ready model without a picture of the other side showing the date code. Considering the Duty line was discontinued 2014 according to the CZ-USA website and the SR models didn't start until ~2019-ish, I'm going with a seller screw up. FWIW the CZ European site shows a .380 version which would make my carpal tunnel happier...

You got it. The stock Duty Slides will say "Duty" under the front sight and have the old black finish.

[Lon]

If anyone is looking for a P09, there’s an optic cut (407k cut) one on AR15.com for $475. Don’t know anything more than what’s on the post.

[David S.]

I would chuck the CGW Trigger return spring. I’ve broken two of them over the last 4 years of ownership. Both guns had a moderately high number of trigger presses, far more than a typical carry gun would see. According to one of their videos, the Ben Stoeger mafia has apparently several break in Shadow 2’s (same part number).

[awp_101]

I would chuck the CGW Trigger return spring. I’ve broken two of them over the last 4 years of ownership. Both guns had a moderately high number of trigger presses, far more than a typical carry gun would see. According to one of their videos, the Ben Stoeger mafia has apparently several break in Shadow 2’s (same part number).

So the stock spring more durable?

[David S.]

So the stock spring more durable?

I don’t have any significant personal experience with the stock spring, just bad experience with the CGW spring. I’ll keep an eye out for the video where Stoeger mentions the CGW spring failures on the S2.

CGW thinks their spring is more durable. I think Clusterfrack has had good luck with the CGW spring.

Sooooooo……. I dunno.

[awp_101]

Understood, thanks!

[Clusterfrack]

I don’t have any significant personal experience with the stock spring, just bad experience with the CGW spring. I’ll keep an eye out for the video where Stoeger mentions the CGW spring failures on the S2.

CGW thinks their spring is more durable. I think Clusterfrack has had good luck with the CGW spring.

Sooooooo……. I dunno.

I've put a serious number of cycles on CGW trigger springs, and never had one break before at least 30k cycles (probably well over 60k including dryfire). Note that I always apply a drop of oil on the coils of the spring.

The new CZ OEM trigger springs seem to be improved and a lot more durable.

[JCN]

I've put a serious number of cycles on CGW trigger springs, and never had one break before at least 30k cycles (probably well over 60k including dryfire). Note that I always apply a drop of oil on the coils of the spring.

The new CZ OEM trigger springs seem to be improved and a lot more durable.

In an S2, I've never broken a CGW trigger spring over many, many, many dry and live presses.

David S. remind me again what trigger you were using with the CGW spring that broke?

The reason why I ask is that I wonder if there's some geometrical benefit to having the RRK trigger plus the additional set screw holding leg alignment.

Almost all my presses have been with an RRK trigger.

[Moylan]

I've broken two Cajun trigger return springs, too. The first one was after an awful lot of dry and live. The second one was after, I forget exactly, but I'd say 4-6 months of heavy dry fire. The 1st was in a P07, the 2nd was in an SP01 tactical. I was satisfied with the life of the 1st one, but I thought the 2nd one died kind of quick. I wrote to Cajun to ask about it, and David (I think that's his name) said they go fast when you do a lot of double action dry fire, which is what I was mostly doing. Both guns have stock triggers, no short return kits.

[David S.]

Stock trigger, with CGW Pro Package.

Mostly DA presses.

[JCN]

I've broken two Cajun trigger return springs, too. The first one was after an awful lot of dry and live. The second one was after, I forget exactly, but I'd say 4-6 months of heavy dry fire. The 1st was in a P07, the 2nd was in an SP01 tactical. I was satisfied with the life of the 1st one, but I thought the 2nd one died kind of quick. I wrote to Cajun to ask about it, and David (I think that's his name) said they go fast when you do a lot of double action dry fire, which is what I was mostly doing. Both guns have stock triggers, no short return kits.


Stock trigger, with CGW Pro Package.

Mostly DA presses.

Maybe there is something with the RRK. It yields a shorter double action stroke and perhaps that reduced range of travel helps preserve the life the spring when it’s not stressed as much geometrically?

I’m at years and many 10s of thousands of rounds on my springs currently (with RRK).

[Trukinjp13]

Maybe there is something with the RRK. It yields a shorter double action stroke and perhaps that reduced range of travel helps preserve the life the spring when it’s not stressed as much geometrically?

I’m at years and many 10s of thousands of rounds on my springs currently (with RRK).

Did not know there was a RRK available for the Omega trigger?


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[JCN]

Did not know there was a RRK available for the Omega trigger?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are correct, there isn’t!

I was just trying to figure out if there was some reason why some people get a lot of life from their springs and others don’t.

To basically parse it down to application specific recommendations.

I was also wondering if the additional set screw of the CGW trigger allows better alignment of the long arm of the spring and less side loading.

When I install them, I notice that the set screw keeps the spring from tilting… so the spring leg is in line with the coils rather than angled across.

[Clusterfrack]

I have them in S2s (with RRK), and P-07s and they seem equally durable. Are the failures at the arm or the coil? Mine have all failed at the coil, supporting cyclic fatigue as the failure mode. Here are some possible explanations for premature failure:

1. Defective part
2. Unlubricated spring coil creates friction, resulting in stress concentrations and premature failure
3. High stress during installation creates a weak spot

Installing them is kind of a pain. A slave pin helps. And there's a new tool that makes it a whole lot easier:
https://www.dot40.net/product/eemann-tech-trigger-spring-tool/

[fly out]

I have them in S2s (with RRK), and P-07s and they seem equally durable. Are the failures at the arm or the coil? Mine have all failed at the coil, supporting cyclic fatigue as the failure mode.

Installing them is kind of a pain. A slave pin helps. And there's a new tool that makes it a whole lot easier:
https://www.dot40.net/product/eemann-tech-trigger-spring-tool/

The tool works on the P-07, too, yes?

They also recommend their own spring. Anyone have any experience with them?

[Clusterfrack]

The tool works on the P-07, too, yes?

They also recommend their own spring. Anyone have any experience with them?

Yes, it holds the spring in the proper orientation and the P-07 uses the same TRS. Note: I haven't used the tool yet!

Haven't tried those springs...

[David S.]

I guess my failures were at the arm, maybe a quarter of the way up from the coil. The long arm failed the first time, the short arm failed the second time. I have pics of both buried somewhere in this thread. I kept the part well lubricated, especially after the first one failed.

To be fair, I still have a CGW TRS in a P-07 that will be an occasional carry gun, so I’m not super concerned about it failing.

As a TRS slave pin, I cut down Q-tip brand cotton swabs to the right length. They’re just the right diameter.

[Kanye Wyoming]

For those interested, $419 for a P-07 at Grab A Gun.

https://grabagun.com/cz-p-07-9mm-15rd-blk-poly.html

[fatdog]

I lucked into a complete with barrel and RSA spare slide for about $150, in fact a whole "gun busted" kit which instantly gave me a whole gun's worth of spare parts. My intent is to send this one off to get milled.

So I know Jaegerwerks is a valid choice. I have had Impact Machine mill some other stuff for me and I know they will do it but my last project with them took 14 weeks. Any other advice on the whole milling thing?

[Trigger]

I used Cajun Gun Works for two P-07 slides. Good work, good results. The process is a bit different. You purchase on line, then they tell you when to mail your slides in, usually several weeks later. I missed my first mailing window, got chastised, rescheduled for the next window. Finally got them done. Time without the slides was about a month.

[Lon]

I lucked into a complete with barrel and RSA spare slide for about $150, in fact a whole "gun busted" kit which instantly gave me a whole gun's worth of spare parts. My intent is to send this one off to get milled.

So I know Jaegerwerks is a valid choice. I have had Impact Machine mill some other stuff for me and I know they will do it but my last project with them took 14 weeks. Any other advice on the whole milling thing?

When I had mine cut, I had them cut in a new dovetail at the back of the slide and mounted the optic further back than what’s possible with the factory dovetail. I’d see if they can do that for a Glock or an Sig rear sight. Better suppressor height sight options with those. CZ suppressor sights for the factory cuts are awful.

109946

[Clusterfrack]

I lucked into a complete with barrel and RSA spare slide for about $150, in fact a whole "gun busted" kit which instantly gave me a whole gun's worth of spare parts. My intent is to send this one off to get milled.

So I know Jaegerwerks is a valid choice. I have had Impact Machine mill some other stuff for me and I know they will do it but my last project with them took 14 weeks. Any other advice on the whole milling thing?


When I had mine cut, I had them cut in a new dovetail at the back of the slide and mounted the optic further back than what’s possible with the factory dovetail. I’d see if they can do that for a Glock or an Sig rear sight. Better suppressor height sight options with those. CZ suppressor sights for the factory cuts are awful.


I agree with Lon about cutting a new rear dovetail for a Glock taper. But why not do irons forward? Optic is closer to your face, and the window is unobstructed so you can see the dot even if it's overlapping with the sight. The front window is farther from ejection, and protected from impact by the BUIS. Holster fitment is easier. What's not to like? (These guns were done by Stone Bridge Gunworks)

https://pistol-forum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98708&d=1671572651

[fatdog]

Jaegerworks is offering the Glock dovetail in front option. That is what I was planning to do if I go with them.

Timely ebay alert I got this morning, I was able to snag a rare nib 407CO, my favorite carry optic, so its destiny will be this new slide....

[claymore504]

Agree with Clusterfrack

I decided to give irons forward a try on my P09 when I had it milled by CGW a few years ago (easier process back then). May get my P07 done the same way.

https://i.imgur.com/KQoBUWK.jpg?4

[fatdog]

I went with Stonebridge simply because they were able to include the suppressor height irons in the bundle for same price as the other guys offered without including the sights, and the other provider was out of stock on the iron sights anyway, my rear will be in front of the optic.

[GlockenSpiel]

Anyone have experience using glock hogue grips on these? Apparently the 19 ones will fit the 07, but I'd actually like to hear about a glock 17 grip on a p09. I like large-as-possible grip options.

https://www.1911forum.com/threads/cz-p-09-p-07-highly-recommended.983820/

More of a p09 question, but this does seem like the p07/09 mega thread.

[Clusterfrack]

Anyone have experience using glock hogue grips on these? Apparently the 19 ones will fit the 07, but I'd actually like to hear about a glock 17 grip on a p09. I like large-as-possible grip options.

https://www.1911forum.com/threads/cz-p-09-p-07-highly-recommended.983820/

More of a p09 question, but this does seem like the p07/09 mega thread.

Interesting. I haven't tried a grip sleeve--but my smedium hands don't require anything more than the small grip insert on a P-07, and a rubber decal from Tractiongrips.

[GlockenSpiel]

Looks like the P10 ones work, which makes sense:

https://www.reddit.com/r/CZFirearms/comments/113czy7/hogue_beavertail_grip_for_p10_also_fits_the_p09/

[TeeBee]

Does anyone have a write-up on the origin of the P-07/09 series?

Was CZ competing for a military or law enforcement contract, then sent it out to the commercial market? I'm not looking for C&Rsenal level of detail, just the broader origin story of my favorite pistols.

[Clusterfrack]

Does anyone have a write-up on the origin of the P-07/09 series?

Was CZ competing for a military or law enforcement contract, then sent it out to the commercial market? I'm not looking for C&Rsenal level of detail, just the broader origin story of my favorite pistols.

Great question. I'd like to know more too. My understanding is the P-07 Duty was the first gun designed for the Omega action.

[Navin Johnson]

Does anyone have a write-up on the origin of the P-07/09 series?

Was CZ competing for a military or law enforcement contract, then sent it out to the commercial market? I'm not looking for C&Rsenal level of detail, just the broader origin story of my favorite pistols.

Let’s see……. Double action guns are very popular in Europe, and in the long run polymer frames are cheaper and likely more durable. So likely adapting to the market.

Always been curious why they (CZ in general) don’t have a range program or a law-enforcement program in the United States.

[claymore504]

Let’s see……. Double action guns are very popular in Europe, and in the long run polymer frames are cheaper and likely more durable. So likely adapting to the market.

Always been curious why they (CZ in general) don’t have a range program or a law-enforcement program in the United States.

CZ-USA did have an LE program for a while. It was not very strong or organized though. There was an LE website showing a few departments that were running the CZ P10 and Scorpion. They had a link for armorer classes, but when you clicked on it, there was a bunch of old dates. I guess in general, they just did not get serious about LE. When the P10 came out I really thought they were going to make a strong push here in the US.

As for the origins of the P07 and P09, I just think it was CZ's way of stepping into modern pistol design. Plus as stated, I think the P07 was the basis model for the omega trigger system.

[Patrick Taylor]

Stopped in a LGS last Wednesday. New P-09s going for $349

[TheNewbie]

Stopped in a LGS last Wednesday. New P-09s going for $349

Saw one on gun.deals for $309.


A P-07 at that price would be almost impossible to say no to buying.

[Patrick Taylor]

Saw one on gun.deals for $309.

Shipped , insured and transfered ? Online prices are misleading.

Good deal but is it really less than a LGS for $349?

[Clusterfrack]

$350 plus a full CGW parts kit would be around $600, the price of a stock Glock.
https://cajungunworks.com/product/p-07-p-09-pro-grade-package/
https://cajungunworks.com/product/sear-pin-p-07-p-09/
https://cajungunworks.com/product/97040-fits-p-07/
https://cajungunworks.com/product/recoil-spring-for-p-07-09-and-p-10-c/



Saw one on gun.deals for $309.

A P-07 at that price would be almost impossible to say no to buying.


Shipped , insured and transfered ? Online prices are misleading.

Good deal but is it really less than a LGS for $349?

[TicTacticalTimmy]

Shipped , insured and transfered ? Online prices are misleading.

Good deal but is it really less than a LGS for $349?

$350 locally is a really great deal.

I got one online for $325 shipped. Add $25 FFL fee for $350 OTD
$350 gun+ $150 slide milling +$50 internal upgrades and spare parts
=$550 for an ultra reliable and shootable hammer fired optics ready pistol.

About $100 cheaper than a Glock MOS which probably costs half as much to produce as a P09.

[Patrick Taylor]

Looked around for things like threaded barrels and not much available. Could these be on the way to being out of production?

Low prices and factory parts getting scarce?

[45dotACP]

$350 locally is a really great deal.

I got one online for $325 shipped. Add $25 FFL fee for $350 OTD
$350 gun+ $150 slide milling +$50 internal upgrades and spare parts
=$550 for an ultra reliable and shootable hammer fired optics ready pistol.

About $100 cheaper than a Glock MOS which probably costs half as much to produce as a P09.

That's a steal.

The P09 I own is possibly one of my favorite plastic guns of all time. I may end up with another P07 at some point if it's just too good a deal to pass up. I went through the process of getting the P09 milled for a RDS, put in a Primary Arms gold plated barrel and got the slide cerakoted with olive green. With a red dot, the gun is an absolute laser beam. Less money in it than in my LTT 92G and easily rivals it accuracy wise. It really is the gun I'd pick up if I had to put money on hitting a dime sized target at 20 yards. Outside of my Alchemy Prime in 9mm, it's the most accurate pistol I probably own, and I could probably buy three of them set up identically, for the cost of one Alchemy.

[TicTacticalTimmy]

Looked around for things like threaded barrels and not much available. Could these be on the way to being out of production?

Low prices and factory parts getting scarce?

? Dozens of stores have threaded P09s in stock for around $500.

Primary Machine also does runs of threaded barrels.

[claymore504]

That's a steal.

The P09 I own is possibly one of my favorite plastic guns of all time. I may end up with another P07 at some point if it's just too good a deal to pass up. I went through the process of getting the P09 milled for a RDS, put in a Primary Arms gold plated barrel and got the slide cerakoted with olive green. With a red dot, the gun is an absolute laser beam. Less money in it than in my LTT 92G and easily rivals it accuracy wise. It really is the gun I'd pick up if I had to put money on hitting a dime sized target at 20 yards. Outside of my Alchemy Prime in 9mm, it's the most accurate pistol I probably own, and I could probably buy three of them set up identically, for the cost of one Alchemy.

I am feeling the same as you about the P09. I love my Elite LTT 92, but that P09 just keeps me loving it. My favorite polymer pistol hands down.

[Patrick Taylor]

? Dozens of stores have threaded P09s in stock for around $500.

Primary Machine also does runs of threaded barrels.

Looked for factory threaded barrels seperate from the pistol , not a pistol with a threaded barrel.

PM also showed out of stock.

[Clusterfrack]

Looked for factory threaded barrels seperate from the pistol , not a pistol with a threaded barrel.

PM also showed out of stock.

Not sure what’s up with PM, but CZ sent a _lot_ of guns to Ukraine. Hopefully that explains the lack of P07/09 parts.

[Dave Williams]

https://battlehawkarmory.com/product/cz-91620-p-09-full-size-9mm-luger-singledouble-4.50-191-black-polymer-gripframe-grip-black-slide

$299.99 for P-09s.

[TheNewbie]

https://battlehawkarmory.com/product/cz-91620-p-09-full-size-9mm-luger-singledouble-4.50-191-black-polymer-gripframe-grip-black-slide

$299.99 for P-09s.


Wow.

[Patrick Taylor]

Stopped in a different LGS this morning. Threaded barrel P10F for $450 tempted me.

I have never fired a P09 or a P10 , do not care for the long grip. 17 rounds and a shorter grip might make me spend the money on one.

Probably hold off until I see what the new P10 looks like.

[sparkyv]

Heck of a deal! By the time I decided to pull the trigger, they were OOS. Instead, ended up with another P-07 from GunstuffTV.

https://battlehawkarmory.com/product/cz-91620-p-09-full-size-9mm-luger-singledouble-4.50-191-black-polymer-gripframe-grip-black-slide

$299.99 for P-09s.

[Clusterfrack]

P-07 Suppressor-Ready $419.99
https://palmettostatearmory.com/cz-p-07-9mm-4-36-17rd-suppressor-ready-pistol-black-89289.html

https://palmettostatearmory.com/media/catalog/product/cache/7af8331bf1196ca28793bd1e8f6ecc7b/5/1/516551629990_1_v2.jpeg

[GlockenSpiel]

https://www.familyfirearms.com/product/cz-91620-p-09-full-size-9mm-luger-singledouble-4.50-191-black-polymer-gripframe-grip-black-slide

P09s are still $300 here.

[FreedomFries]

Any good way to increase trigger reach on these? I'm not finding much in the way of aftermarket trigger shoes sold in the US. The backstraps do not appear to alter the upper portion of the grip and will not change the reach. I have medium hands but for some reason, the trigger shoe on the P-07 contacts my finger well into the middle phalanx of my finger. It also pinches my finger, especially when used with the heavier hammer springs.

[Clusterfrack]

Any good way to increase trigger reach on these? I'm not finding much in the way of aftermarket trigger shoes sold in the US. The backstraps do not appear to alter the upper portion of the grip and will not change the reach. I have medium hands but for some reason, the trigger shoe on the P-07 contacts my finger well into the middle phalanx of my finger. It also pinches my finger, especially when used with the heavier hammer springs.

I've come to the conclusion that the P-07 may not be the best choice for larger hands/longer fingers. Here are a couple aftermarket trigger options. Not sure if they would help.

https://cajungunworks.com/product/omega-trigger/

https://rushbyind.com/product/cz-p07-p09-omega-flat-trigger/

[backtrail540]

I had issues with my finger hitting the frame at the end of the press, and did not find any of the options at the time to help. If i recall correctly i tried the cz custom flat trigger and the cgw old style trigger. Same issue persisted. Still one of my favorite guns to shoot but it was annoying to say the least.

[David S.]

I've come to the conclusion that the P-07 may not be the best choice for larger hands/longer fingers.

After a several years fighting with CZ's, I've come to the same conclusion. There's a lot to like about these guns. They're accurate, reliable, and easy to maintain. . . but I'm finding both the Beretta 92 with large LOK grips and the M&P's with Large backstrap installed to be easier to shoot consistently. There seems to be something about the extra grip circumference.

[Clusterfrack]

I had a question by PM: "how much slack is there in the P-07 trigger in DA and SA modes?"

Both SA and DA pulls are 2-stage, with significant takeup. See below (note that the gun in the vids has a full CGW ProGrade kit):

DA Pull

https://youtu.be/qw_8DrwzsJ8


SA Pull

https://youtu.be/7UT3mqKGhyA

Chris17404

[FreedomFries]

I had issues with my finger hitting the frame at the end of the press, and did not find any of the options at the time to help. If i recall correctly i tried the cz custom flat trigger and the cgw old style trigger. Same issue persisted. Still one of my favorite guns to shoot but it was annoying to say the least.

Thanks. I was looking at these trigger shoes, but I will skip that now if it didn't fix the issue for you.

[claymore504]

I agree that the P07 & P09 are not great for people with larger hands and/or long fingers due to the shorter trigger reach. That is actually one of the main reasons I gave them a try and found I really like them. When I decided to go DA/SA, I found with my mediumish hands that the trigger reach in DA on most guns was too long for me. The P07 & P09 is just right. I like and run the SP-01 Tac, but having a short reach kit and thinner grips is ideal for me. I love the Beretta 92, but once agaon, it must have the short reach trigger and thin grips to work for me.

When I first started the DA/SA hunt, I went with the Sig P229. Even with the factory SIg short reach trigger it just did not work for me. Now a P226 or P229 SAO is amazing.

[1More]

I've come to the conclusion that the P-07 may not be the best choice for larger hands/longer fingers. Here are a couple aftermarket trigger options. Not sure if they would help.

https://cajungunworks.com/product/omega-trigger/

https://rushbyind.com/product/cz-p07-p09-omega-flat-trigger/

I'll second the recommendation to try the Omega trigger from Cajun. I have larger hands and a long reach with my index finger(XL gloves, thick base of thumb). On a P07 Duty (equal to small/medium backstrap on Gen 2 P07), I had to train to a different finger placement to prevent pinching and other weirdness. I tried the Gen 2 trigger in the Duty frame and the issue remained, while adding others. The Omega trigger works well for me; greatly reduced the propensity for pinching and support hand interference. It also feels closer to the stock trigger in my Shadow 2. From some angles, I would love to have a stock 226 style trigger shape in my CZ... but the Omega in my P07 took it from a "this is ok to shoot" to "I'm going to have to rein this horse in, it is so nice it takes itself for a run". For strong- or weak-hand only shooting, the improvement is even greater in placement, control, and management.

[FreedomFries]

I'll second the recommendation to try the Omega trigger from Cajun. I have larger hands and a long reach with my index finger(XL gloves, thick base of thumb). On a P07 Duty (equal to small/medium backstrap on Gen 2 P07), I had to train to a different finger placement to prevent pinching and other weirdness. I tried the Gen 2 trigger in the Duty frame and the issue remained, while adding others. The Omega trigger works well for me; greatly reduced the propensity for pinching and support hand interference. It also feels closer to the stock trigger in my Shadow 2. From some angles, I would love to have a stock 226 style trigger shape in my CZ... but the Omega in my P07 took it from a "this is ok to shoot" to "I'm going to have to rein this horse in, it is so nice it takes itself for a run". For strong- or weak-hand only shooting, the improvement is even greater in placement, control, and management.

OK, I'll try the CGW Omega trigger shoe. I have had a lot of trouble getting the P-07 to work for me. I first tried one around 2018 and traded it away because I was unhappy with the trigger press on it. Then I got to reading all the praises here on PF years later and was convinced to try it again also because of the ease of optics milling for the P-07 versus other TDA pistols. The trigger was a little better on these later production ones, but I'm still having that problem with finger placement and length of pull.

[Chris17404]

I had a question by PM: "how much slack is there in the P-07 trigger in DA and SA modes?"

Both SA and DA pulls are 2-stage, with significant takeup. See below (note that the gun in the vids has a full CGW ProGrade kit):

Chris17404

Thank you for those illustrative videos, Clusterfrack. That helps a lot. As I mentioned in my IM to you, something I really like about the DA pull on a revolver or Beretta 92 is the fact there is no slack to take up before the full weight of the DA pull is felt. It's one long continuous weight pull. I do, however, prefer some slack to be taken up in the SA pull. It's just a bit of extra assurance, and I like the feeling of getting to the "wall" prior to pressing through the SA shot.

So the SA pull on the P-07 seems perfectly acceptable to me, but the DA is not what I ideally prefer. I'm curious how you address the takeup and resulting sudden increase in weight in the DA pull. Do you just smash right through it, or do you consciously take up the slack first and then roll thru the full weight and travel of the DA press?

[Clusterfrack]

Thank you for those illustrative videos, Clusterfrack. That helps a lot. As I mentioned in my IM to you, something I really like about the DA pull on a revolver or Beretta 92 is the fact there is no slack to take up before the full weight of the DA pull is felt. It's one long continuous weight pull. I do, however, prefer some slack to be taken up in the SA pull. It's just a bit of extra assurance, and I like the feeling of getting to the "wall" prior to pressing through the SA shot.

So the SA pull on the P-07 seems perfectly acceptable to me, but the DA is not what I ideally prefer. I'm curious how you address the takeup and resulting sudden increase in weight in the DA pull. Do you just smash right through it, or do you consciously take up the slack first and then roll thru the full weight and travel of the DA press?

Great question. I don’t care that much about trigger feel, so I never thought about the 2-stage DA until you mentioned it. I like it because that’s how almost all of my other triggers work. The P07 DA ‘2nd stage’ power stroke is relatively short, which I like a lot. It’s easy to pull straight back.

For most shots I pull fairly rapidly through both stages. If it’s a tough shot, I prep and press.

[Chris17404]

Gotcha. Thank you. I wonder if there's any custom work that can be done to the P-07's trigger to minimize or eliminate that 2-stage DA pull. That would make it more palatable to me. I'd be happy to replace the zero-weight take-up stage with the full DA weight, making the DA length of pull longer.

[Clusterfrack]

Gotcha. Thank you. I wonder if there's any custom work that can be done to the P-07's trigger to minimize or eliminate that 2-stage DA pull. That would make it more palatable to me. I'd be happy to replace the zero-weight take-up stage with the full DA weight, making the DA length of pull longer.

Maybe an aftermarket trigger with a pre-travel adjustment screw? It's unlikely you could increase the length of the DA power stroke.

[FreedomFries]

I got the CGW trigger shoe today. It doesn't change the trigger reach much but it does feel a lot more comfortable on my finger in DA dry fire. I didn't install the overtravel limiting screw yet. Have struggled with the P-07 trigger for about 6 years. Gave up on the P-07 initially and only got interested in them again recently because of their ease of direct milling for a dot versus other TDA. I tried a CGW Pro Grade Kit that lightened both the DA and SA pull, changed the SA from rolling to crisp break, and shortened the reset distance. None of this really improved the feel of the trigger to me as much as just changing the trigger shoe to the CGW Old Style 85. I actually ended up taking out a lot of the other CGW parts because I don't care about short reset and having to use the extended firing pin with their disconnector/lifter arm makes me uncomfortable. Still using some of their springs to get the DA pull lighter but keep the SA pull above 3.5 lbs.
112583

[Clusterfrack]

I got the CGW trigger shoe today. It doesn't change the trigger reach much but it does feel a lot more comfortable on my finger in DA dry fire. I didn't install the overtravel limiting screw yet. Have struggled with the P-07 trigger for about 6 years. Gave up on the P-07 initially and only got interested in them again recently because of their ease of direct milling for a dot versus other TDA. I tried a CGW Pro Grade Kit that lightened both the DA and SA pull, changed the SA from rolling to crisp break, and shortened the reset distance. None of this really improved the feel of the trigger to me as much as just changing the trigger shoe to the CGW Old Style 85. I actually ended up taking out a lot of the other CGW parts because I don't care about short reset and having to use the extended firing pin with their disconnector/lifter arm makes me uncomfortable. Still using some of their springs to get the DA pull lighter but keep the SA pull above 3.5 lbs.


Nice! I won't try to talk you into the extended FP, but I did some testing (see below) and was satisfied that it is drop safe--especially since the P07 has a firing pin block safety.


Safety Testing the CGW Extended Firing Pin

I had a little free time today, and completed a project I've had planned for a while.

The CGW Extended Firing Pin (https://cajungunworks.com/product/61050-perfection-series-firing/) (EFP) is part of the ProGrade Kit (https://cajungunworks.com/product/p-07-p-09-pro-grade-package/), and can be used separately as well. The EFP is the key to using lighter hammer springs. In my guns, I have determined that springs as light as #13 are reliable (https://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?12944-New-CZ-P-07-Mind-Blown&p=1127158&viewfull=1#post1127158).

However, the EFP is longer than the OEM firing pin, and protrudes slightly from the breech face when under pressure, even when the FP safety is engaged.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201025/924496c34594473856b1bb9582dc65a1.jpg


This was concerning to me for obvious reasons. Therefore I tested if an impact to the EFP could fire a round in the chamber. I used empty primed cases: Federal HST 147, and my own handholds (Winchester primer). I tested two of my guns, one with a full Prograde Kit and 6000+ rounds through it, and a new P-07 with the EFP.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201025/5b6e7e0b69b368405ce825977e33d9ff.jpg


I whacked the EFP with a punch and a hammer three times. No ignition.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201025/ea06a146070fb0287aa5f54d80c433ff.jpg


The primers looked like this, with a visible but small indentation:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201025/fb5190b8df054bd056344927964a1a1c.jpg


I fired the gun normally, and the primers ignited. The cases looked like this:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201025/1588e9ba333f63e936297de339436693.jpg


Conclusion: a very hard impact to the EFP while the FP safety is engaged will not ignite even soft Federal primers.

[FreedomFries]

Nice! I won't try to talk you into the extended FP, but I did some testing (see below) and was satisfied that it is drop safe--especially since the P07 has a firing pin block safety.

I saw the tests you did with a punch and I've also read that the extended firing only protrudes up to 0.004" beyond the breach face, the exact amount depending on tolerance stacking of the various parts, which would not be expected to risk crushing the primer compound against the anvil. Still, I do not recall having seen any stock service pistol with a firing pin block that allows the firing pin to protrude beyond the breach face like that. Since the main benefit of having that extended firing pin is improve ignition reliability with very light hammer springs, I decided to forego using it because I use either the 15# or 18# hammer spring and have had no issue with S&B primers when paired with the reduced power firing pin spring.

The other issue I have with the extended firing pin is that it has a "low lift" feature to make it compatible with the short reset parts in the Pro Grade Kit. The amount that the firing pin block plunger has to be lifted for the firing pin to pass is reduced when using the extended firing pin versus the OEM firing pin. Since I do not need a short reset, I prefer not to reduce the amount of lift required to deactivate the firing pin block.

This is not a criticism of the CGW parts or anyone that carries with those parts. They are very high quality parts and I have no doubt that they tested their design thoroughly. It is just beyond my comfort level to have the firing pin protrude beyond the breach face and reduce the amount of movement required to deactivate the firing pin block system in order to reduce my DA pull by 0.5-1# (using a 13# vs 15# or 18# hammer spring) and shorten the reset distance by approximately 1/3 to 1/2.

I did use the CGW 15# hammer spring, reduced power firing pin spring, heavy sear spring, reduced power trigger return spring, and the tempered spring steel firing pin retaining pin. Some minor aftermarket spring changes plus the obvious upgrade to the retaining pin are within my comfort zone. I have a 8.75# DA and 3.5# SA, which is good enough for me after the grittiness improves from repeated dry firing.

[Clusterfrack]

Great post FreedomFries. I understand your points.

I want a significant margin of reliability, especially because my guns get really dirty from backcountry use. As well as the CGW extended FP, I use a #15lb (https://pistol-forum.com/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=15lb) hammer spring, and the OEM FP block spring.

The FP block + decock notch are enough for me to be confident about the safety of my guns. Everyone has to make their own choices of course.

[FreedomFries]

Clusterfrack, I had not considered using the heavier OEM firing pin block spring. That would alleviate some of my concerns about the "low lift" associated with the extended firing pin/short reset kit. The CGW parts do improve the gritty trigger feel compared to the OEM parts, so I would be motivated to use them if I felt more comfortable with them for carry.

[Caballoflaco]

Any of our CZ aficionados have experience with this extended safety or thoughts on using them to convert a P-07 to SAO?

https://knsprecisioninc.com/kns-cz-p07-09-enhanced-safety/

113330

[Skinner Precision, LLC]

Any of our CZ aficionados have experience with this extended safety or thoughts on using them to convert a P-07 to SAO?

https://knsprecisioninc.com/kns-cz-p07-09-enhanced-safety/

113330

Allegedly, mine arrives Monday, I am interested to see if this makes a p07/p09 a viable cooked and locked carry option like c75's or if da/sa is still really where it is at for this platform.

It won't be SAO though, DA still functions on a omega trigger when the decocker is replaced with the manual safety.

[Caballoflaco]

Allegedly, mine arrives Monday, I am interested to see if this makes a p07/p09 a viable cooked and locked carry option like c75's or if da/sa is still really where it is at for this platform.

It won't be SAO though, DA still functions on a omega trigger when the decocker is replaced with the manual safety.

Thanks, let us know what you think.

[Skinner Precision, LLC]

Part is completely machined, no injection molding or additive processes. Paddles are anodized aluminum, attached to steel shaft via blind pin. Paddles are easy to reach for me. I wish the left side safety paddle was shaped more like the cz competition extended safety with a bigger / longer shelf but it is very usable as is.

You will have to transfer over your safety detent plate and Spring from the oem safety as part of the install.

First impression, I am ordering another one. Next step order stronger firing pin block springs to up the SA trigger pull.

[Clusterfrack]

First impression, I am ordering another one. Next step order stronger firing pin block springs to up the SA trigger pull.

Nice! Are you already using the heavy CGW sear spring?

[Skinner Precision, LLC]

Nice! Are you already using the heavy CGW sear spring?

Cgw 15 lb mainspring/extended fp/ hardened roll pin were installed close to day one trying to improve da while keeping reliability , safety is the only other mod (other than talon grip tape), very open to your expert suggestions on what to change to up the SA pull.

[Clusterfrack]

Cgw 15 lb mainspring/extended fp/ hardened roll pin were installed close to day one trying to improve da while keeping reliability , safety is the only other mod (other than talon grip tape), very open to your expert suggestions on what to change to up the SA pull.

A nice feature of the Omega action is being able to set DA and SA weights relatively independently. The CGW sear spring kit (https://cajungunworks.com/product/omega-sear-spring-kit/) includes two springs that are both heavier than OEM. These are part of the ProGrade kit (https://cajungunworks.com/product/p-07-p-09-pro-grade-package/). I've never heard of a heavy FP block spring. Where did you find that? (I'm not sure it's needed though).

I use the SS guide rod and 18# or 15# recoil springs
Guide Rod
https://cajungunworks.com/product/97040-fits-p-07/

Recoil springs
https://cajungunworks.com/product/15...ng-for-p-0709/
https://cajungunworks.com/product/18...ng-for-p-0709/

While you're there, you might as well pick up:
https://cajungunworks.com/product/sear-pin-p-07-p-09/

An extra FP roll pin or two:
https://cajungunworks.com/product/61100-tempered-spring-steel-firing-pin-retaining-pin/

[Skinner Precision, LLC]

A nice feature of the Omega action is being able to set DA and SA weights relatively independently. The CGW sear spring kit (https://cajungunworks.com/product/omega-sear-spring-kit/) includes two springs that are both heavier than OEM. These are part of the ProGrade kit (https://cajungunworks.com/product/p-07-p-09-pro-grade-package/). I've never heard of a heavy FP block spring. Where did you find that? (I'm not sure it's needed though).



https://cajungunworks.com/product/extra-heavy-firing-pin-block-plunger-spring/ claims to up SA pull 14 oz

I haven't got into the guts of a cz/tanfo since my 9x21mm open gun days and I am to lazy to any more, if I can bump up the SA via a spring on the top end that will presumably cause no problems anywhere else...

[Clusterfrack]

https://cajungunworks.com/product/extra-heavy-firing-pin-block-plunger-spring/ claims to up SA pull 14 oz

I haven't got into the guts of a cz/tanfo since my 9x21mm open gun days and I am to lazy to any more, if I can bump up the SA via a spring on the top end that will presumably cause no problems anywhere else...

Thanks. Good to learn something new. Let us know how that works.

[TeeBee]

https://cajungunworks.com/product/extra-heavy-firing-pin-block-plunger-spring/ claims to up SA pull 14 oz

I haven't got into the guts of a cz/tanfo since my 9x21mm open gun days and I am to lazy to any more, if I can bump up the SA via a spring on the top end that will presumably cause no problems anywhere else...

I recently installed the extra heavy FPB spring into one of my P-07s. It increased the SA pull about 11 oz. I also measured a slight increase in DA pull, but the increase was within the difference from pull to pull.

[TheNewbie]

Has anyone heard that the P-07 will be discontinued? I read a comment that a dealer said they would be. I am skeptical of the veracity of youtube comments, but I thought I would ask.


There are enough military/police contracts for the P-07 that I would think it would stay around for a bit.

[TheNewbie]

Has anyone heard that the P-07 will be discontinued? I read a comment that a dealer said they would be. I am skeptical of the veracity of youtube comments, but I thought I would ask.


There are enough military/police contracts for the P-07 that I would think it would stay around for a bit.


I also read that new models were coming and there has been mention of a smaller P-07 in the past. We shall see.

[Proof]

Read the entire thread in last two days; very informative, lots of good pointers. Thanks.

I have two P07 with G & H prefix. I think each firearm is unique. My G prefix P07 has CIP N marking on the slide and the H one does not. The H has loaded "pin" indicator on the ejector. My CZ-70 bought 25 years ago has the loaded indicator on the opposite side the ejector.

The double action pull stroke (before hammer falls) are different ; the G prefix has notability shorter pull in DA than the H prefix.
Both had approximately 9-10 lbs DA, 4.5-5 lbs SA from the box.

Trigger Return Spring broke (G) after 150 live rounds and about 200 dry fires, CZ-USA sent a new spring. And, I order TRS from CGW together with 18# hammer spring and reduced power FP spring.

I also cut 2 coils from OEM hammer spring which yielded 8# DA and 3# SA with CGW TRS on the (G). On the (H) gun I put in #18 HS only, I got same 8# DA. Yes, I polished and cleaned up the trigger bar, sears, roller and hammer per M-Carbo video. I use a slave pin to install the TRS, and cut a notch of a cheapo well used screw driver to install the decocker spring.

Since, I got a pack of 4 HS from Wolff Springs 16,17, 18 and 19 #. These springs are all longer than CZ OEM. I cut both 16 and 17# to OEM length (1 coil). DA is about 7 to 7.5#
I used CCI small rifle primer in empty brass to test, and they ignited without issue.

Does any know anything on the CIP N marking? Why loaded indicator on some and not others?

Thanks.

[TeeBee]

Has anyone heard that the P-07 will be discontinued? I read a comment that a dealer said they would be. I am skeptical of the veracity of youtube comments...

I too am usually skeptical of comments on social media. However, it's hard to not be a little wigged out that only two models are listed on the CZ-USA website for the polymer omega series (P-07 and P-09 suppressor ready). That and the 2024 USA catalog only shows the suppressor ready (SR) version of the P-09. I would also point to the 2024 CZ-UB catalog has both sized guns available in SR and non-SR configurations. Perhaps they don't sell well enough to justify importation into the States.

[Clusterfrack]

I too am usually skeptical of comments on social media. However, it's hard to not be a little wigged out that only two models are listed on the CZ-USA website for the polymer omega series (P-07 and P-09 suppressor ready). That and the 2024 USA catalog only shows the suppressor ready (SR) version of the P-09. I would also point to the 2024 CZ-UB catalog has both sized guns available in SR and non-SR configurations. Perhaps they don't sell well enough to justify importation into the States.

Replaced by an optic ready P-07? We can dream…

The profit margin on a striker gun has to be significantly higher than on a TDA, and a lot of people buy based on 5 trigger presses in a store. So, it wouldn’t surprise me if they stopped importing them. [emoji53]

[TeeBee]

Replaced by an optic ready P-07? We can dream…

The profit margin on a striker gun has to be significantly higher than on a TDA, and a lot of people buy based on 5 trigger presses in a store. So, it wouldn’t surprise me if they stopped importing them. [emoji53]

Without any knowledge of the handgun market beyond my interests, I would think a polymer optics ready TDA model would be somewhat of a differentiator for CZ. Most optics-ready TDA handguns are alloy framed (thinking SIG P-series, Beretta 92 series). I just don't see that combination of features being enough to sway the larger handgun market to spend money on non-striker guns. It could get me out to spend money I wouldn't otherwise.

I certainly believe the margins on striker guns are much higher. The CZ polymer omega guns are simple in comparison to the traditional CZ trigger mechanism, but the P-10 hardware is simpler and easier to assemble. Those factors drive a major portion of how a for-profit company steers their product lines.

Maybe if I give up hope, it will actually happen.

[Clusterfrack]

Without any knowledge of the handgun market beyond my interests, I would think a polymer optics ready TDA model would be somewhat of a differentiator for CZ. Most optics-ready TDA handguns are alloy framed (thinking SIG P-series, Beretta 92 series). I just don't see that combination of features being enough to sway the larger handgun market to spend money on non-striker guns. It could get me out to spend money I wouldn't otherwise.

I certainly believe the margins on striker guns are much higher. The CZ polymer omega guns are simple in comparison to the traditional CZ trigger mechanism, but the P-10 hardware is simpler and easier to assemble. Those factors drive a major portion of how a for-profit company steers their product lines.

Maybe if I give up hope, it will actually happen.

I'd be happy to see the P-07 refreshed, but I don't think I'd choose an OR model over my direct-milled guns. I like a low optic height and rear iron sight forward of the optic, and that's not likely in a factory OR model. Meanwhile, we have plenty of inexpensive P-07s out there...

[Clusterfrack]

Does any know anything on the CIP N marking? Why loaded indicator on some and not others?


I think the LCI extractor was for the US market. CIP is a Euro firearms testing cert. I have 3 CIP N marked guns, without LCI extractors. My FDE P-07 (CIP N) came with a lanyard loop on the mainspring housing. My LCI gun does not have the CIP N mark.

[Proof]

I think the LCI extractor was for the US market. CIP is a Euro firearms testing cert. I have 3 CIP N marked guns, without LCI extractors. My FDE P-07 (CIP N) came with a lanyard loop on the mainspring housing. My LCI gun does not have the CIP N mark.

Good to know.
For better or worse, why bother to. It seems to me the US market version has better trigger feel in both DA and SA. Could be just me.

BTW, I loaded some primer only rounds to test for primer strike; CCI500 (small pistol), CCI400 (small rifle primer), all ignited with #16 hammer spring with and without the use of CGW reduced firing pin spring. No ignition using CCI #450 small rifle magnum primer even with OEM hammer spring. I don't have extended firing pin.

Edited:
Forgot to mention, tested in DA mode only since SA has stronger strike with hammer cocked back more similar to revolvers.

[Clusterfrack]

I'm a big fan of putting the rear iron sight in front of the optic. But, the sight channel covers the extractor pin. So, I had a friend and local gunsmith machine access ports in the rear irons. Now I can service the extractor without removing the sight. Holes are sealed with RTV silicone.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240408/2619a554e82406d35f5afff4bbf3ee05.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240408/2fc72e1e8852fc80a5d5d3420cb1a6b8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240408/bb5cfd8f5e3211c39d0c0162247df8c3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240408/3c0b2b80aa55386477d8fe7e26a421fe.jpg

[psalms144.1]

I'm a big fan of putting the rear iron sight in front of the optic. But, the sight channel covers the extractor pin. So, I had a friend and local gunsmith machine access ports in the rear irons. Now I can service the extractor without removing the sight. Holes are sealed with RTV silicone.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240408/2619a554e82406d35f5afff4bbf3ee05.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240408/2fc72e1e8852fc80a5d5d3420cb1a6b8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240408/bb5cfd8f5e3211c39d0c0162247df8c3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240408/3c0b2b80aa55386477d8fe7e26a421fe.jpgThat is INCREDIBLY slick. You are really pushing the P07 forward. If only CZ USA would take notice...

[Clusterfrack]

That is INCREDIBLY slick. You are really pushing the P07 forward. If only CZ USA would take notice...

I wish they would update the P07, but I'm pretty happy with it as is. They are readily available for around $500, CGW has excellent parts upgrades, and ATEi (https://ateiguns.com/product/slide-milling-for-clamp-style-optics/), Stone Bridge (https://stonebridgegunworks.com/CZ-P-07P-09-Direct-Optic-Cut-Slide-Milling-Service_p_174.html), or other shop can mill the slide for any optic you want.

At some point, I'll be sending another one off to ATEi for milling for a 509t2 with their Shimsight (https://ateiguns.com/product/atei-shimsight-for-use-with-trijicon-rmrcc-or-aimpoint-acro-p-1/).

[RealSelf]

I wish they would update the P07, but I'm pretty happy with it as is. They are readily available for around $500, CGW has excellent parts upgrades, and ATEi (https://ateiguns.com/product/slide-milling-for-clamp-style-optics/), Stone Bridge (https://stonebridgegunworks.com/CZ-P-07P-09-Direct-Optic-Cut-Slide-Milling-Service_p_174.html), or other shop can mill the slide for any optic you want.

At some point, I'll be sending another one off to ATEi for milling for a 509t2 with their Shimsight (https://ateiguns.com/product/atei-shimsight-for-use-with-trijicon-rmrcc-or-aimpoint-acro-p-1/).


No longer readily available it seems, no online vendors in stock. Makes me wonder if they are doing an updated 2.0, that would be awesome.

[Noah]

No longer readily available it seems, no online vendors in stock. Makes me wonder if they are doing an updated 2.0, that would be awesome.

The P07 or the Shimsight? Both are in stock?

https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/806703910864

[TicTacticalTimmy]

The P07 or the Shimsight? Both are in stock?

https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/806703910864

If you click the store links you'll see nearly all the P07s are out of stock, that engine is pretty unreliable when it comes to showing in stock.

I'm hopeful for an updated/upgraded P07, but after expecting to see one at SHOT every year for like 5 years now, I'm definitely not getting my hopes up in the least.

A more likely explanation is the whole USA is just low on stock. CZ imports their guns in batches. For example, P01s have been hard to find and high priced for several months now. Just a couple weeks ago the shipment came in and now you can find them everywhere and sometimes for a great price. P07s might be on next month/quarters shipment.

[RealSelf]

If you click the store links you'll see nearly all the P07s are out of stock, that engine is pretty unreliable when it comes to showing in stock.

I'm hopeful for an updated/upgraded P07, but after expecting to see one at SHOT every year for like 5 years now, I'm definitely not getting my hopes up in the least.

A more likely explanation is the whole USA is just low on stock. CZ imports their guns in batches. For example, P01s have been hard to find and high priced for several months now. Just a couple weeks ago the shipment came in and now you can find them everywhere and sometimes for a great price. P07s might be on next month/quarters shipment.


It would seem an updated P-07 is probably unlikely considering the rabid hordes of striker fired fans at this point. It very well could be that supply is low due to import waves but I don't get the impression the P-07 is a very popular model at this point as the pricing on them was VERY low prior to this shortage. Both taken together suggests maybe they might even be discontinued in the future.

[Trigger]

If you click the store links you'll see nearly all the P07s are out of stock, that engine is pretty unreliable when it comes to showing in stock.

I'm hopeful for an updated/upgraded P07, but after expecting to see one at SHOT every year for like 5 years now, I'm definitely not getting my hopes up in the least.

A more likely explanation is the whole USA is just low on stock. CZ imports their guns in batches. For example, P01s have been hard to find and high priced for several months now. Just a couple weeks ago the shipment came in and now you can find them everywhere and sometimes for a great price. P07s might be on next month/quarters shipment.

Shi-yeah. I’ve been waiting for a CZ Shadow2 Compact since September. Still waiting. . .

[Kirk]

I was looking at picking up some P07s myself (ultimately decided just to stick with what I have), but yeah, stock is *extremely* low. I only see 3 on Gunbroker total.

[Clusterfrack]

Shi-yeah. I’ve been waiting for a CZ Shadow2 Compact since September. Still waiting. . .

My understanding is that CZUB sent a lot of small arms to Ukraine. Maybe contributed to the scarcity and delay?

[Dcowboyscr]

I’ve been reading different parts of this thread. I just purchased a CZ P07 made in 2022.

So far I plan on getting a set of Night Fusion Night Sights blacked out rear and yellow or orange front, and a stainless steel Guiderod from CGW.

Also debating getting the Cajun GunWorks Pro package or MCarbo spring kit.

At the very least I’m getting the firing pin, FP positioning pin and trigger return spring from Cajun GunWorks. What pound hammer spring should I use with the CGW firing pin?

Any recommendations for further modifications etc.

[Clusterfrack]

I’ve been reading different parts of this thread. I just purchased a CZ P07 made in 2022.

So far I plan on getting a set of Night Fusion Night Sights blacked out rear and yellow or orange front, and a stainless steel Guiderod from CGW.

Also debating getting the Cajun GunWorks Pro package or MCarbo spring kit.

At the very least I’m getting the firing pin, FP positioning pin and trigger return spring from Cajun GunWorks. What pound hammer spring should I use with the CGW firing pin?

Any recommendations for further modifications etc.

I would go with CGW because they developed most of the aftermarket parts for the P07. I think MCarbo uses their parts anyway.

With the CGW FP, a 13# spring works for Federal primers and most others. I use a 15#, which pops even CCI-41 military rifle primers.

Make sure to install the FP retaining pin with the gap at 12:00.

[Dcowboyscr]

Thanks for the quick response. One other question, I noticed that there were 2 versions of the trigger bar support spring on CGW site. One wasn’t available for sale. Was this spring redesigned? I’ve seen a few reports online of this spring either coming out of the gun or the end out of the groove on the underside of the trigger bar. How prevalent is this? And if replacing this spring what is the process for tuning it?

[Clusterfrack]

Thanks for the quick response. One other question, I noticed that there were 2 versions of the trigger bar support spring on CGW site. One wasn’t available for sale. Was this spring redesigned? I’ve seen a few reports online of this spring either coming out of the gun or the end out of the groove on the underside of the trigger bar. How prevalent is this? And if replacing this spring what is the process for tuning it?

Interesting. That trigger bar spring is a new CGW part. I have not tried it, but will next time I order from them.

https://cajungunworks.com/product/trigger-bar-spring-for-p-07-p-09-omega/

The OEM spring has not been problematic in any of my 4 guns, nor in any I’ve seen. The problem you mentioned seems to happen when people ‘tune’ the spring by bending it in an attempt to improve the trigger feel. I’m not a fan of that, or of any princess-and-the-pea trigger or sear turning. A 7-8# DA pull is all I need. I pull the trigger fast and don’t notice any effect of the TB spring.

[LegendX]

I have been lurking here awhile. I have read this entire thread and picked up a new CZ P-07. Reading what the members here said and Clusterfrack . I decided to upgrade to the Cajun Pro package and install it myself even though I have only ever had a Glock that I did upgrades to. I thought I would give it a shot.

My roller bearing measure. 224 so I bought the .225. After reading I also was told that the .220 would be better so I bought that also just in case I had a problem.

My first attempt I used the
.220 roller
Natural sear spring
15lb Main Spring
Reduced power trigger spring

I had this weird thing going on with the trigger . I will attach video.

So I tore it all apart again and this time I used
.225 Roller bearing
Red sear spring
Tried the 15lb and 18lb sear spring

It still did the same thing . I watched videos and everything appears to be installed correctly.

In the video I am using that little rubber piece because I already had the upper stripped to send off to get milled so it doesn't have the upper parts installed.

Here is the video if anyone can tell me what may be going on. I have only ever had Glock so this SA/Da is all new to me .

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KWrVKbKkVyoSrgnJ7

[RMN1162]

I had this weird thing going on with the trigger . I will attach video.



I had the same thing develop very shortly after my package upgrade. Only showed up in SA. Went away with the factory disconnector back in. Emailed Cajun Gun Works and they pointed to a disconnector timing issue. They said it’s somewhat rare with the Omega trigger, but not unheard of. They linked a video from their site that shows the fix.

https://cajungunworks.com/disconnector-timing/

Watch closely which edge they’re addressing. I didn’t have a diamond file and used a fine rat-tail file with the single cut face. The disconnector was HARD! It took me a lot more elbow grease to generate the result, and a lot of fit/test/try to get there. Proceed slow. Email Cajun to verify what I’ve said if you’d like, they’re very quick to respond, great folks!

[Clusterfrack]

LegendX, thanks for the post and video. I agree with RMN1162’s advice. Let us know how this all works out.

[LegendX]

Thanks RMN1162 and Clusterfrack
That was the problem . I called Cajun and talked to Patrick. Their customer service is outstanding. He explained everything and said it was a easy fix . He walked me through it on the phone and then gave me advice on the entire install. I simply took a file and slightly rounded the edge off the bump on the disconnector and now it works perfect and is smooth as can be. I will try and post a picture showing where I filed in red , in a case maybe someone else has the same issue If anyone is thinking about putting in the pro package and is on the fence about doing it yourself , I say do it. I didn't have much knowledge on this gun or how to work on it. I read this thread and watched many videos. Now I know how the gun works and can take it apart and put it back together rather quickly. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/B97QJTaKAswcv2Se9

[Clusterfrack]

Awesome. Welcome to PF LegendX!

[RealSelf]

My understanding is that CZUB sent a lot of small arms to Ukraine. Maybe contributed to the scarcity and delay?

OR .... much more likely is they are being discontinued as supply has still not returned and MidwayUSA is now listing the main SKU for the P-07 as discontinued. Sign of the times, striker rules everything in the Duty Pistol world these days.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020415691?pid=458664&utm_source=wikiarms&utm_medium=referral&utm_content=deallistings&utm_campaign=wikiarmslistings

[LockedBreech]

OR .... much more likely is they are being discontinued as supply has still not returned and MidwayUSA is now listing the main SKU for the P-07 as discontinued. Sign of the times, striker rules everything in the Duty Pistol world these days.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020415691?pid=458664&utm_source=wikiarms&utm_medium=referral&utm_content=deallistings&utm_campaign=wikiarmslistings

Crap, that's what I get for having one of these on my wishlist for years and never pulling the trigger.

[RealSelf]

Crap, that's what I get for having one of these on my wishlist for years and never pulling the trigger.

I'm in the same boat but part of my reservation was that I feared discontinued would be it's fate in the near future. I had one of the original P-07 'Duty' named models before the 2.0 version became the new standard. Sad to see it go and I would say that you can still find a few on Gunbroker as of right now. There is always a possibility that they will be revised and re-released but it seems unlikely.

[LockedBreech]

I'm in the same boat but part of my reservation was that I feared discontinued would be it's fate in the near future. I had one of the original P-07 'Duty' named models before the 2.0 version became the new standard. Sad to see it go and I would say that you can still find a few on Gunbroker as of right now. There is always a possibility that they will be revised and re-released but it seems unlikely.

I may just have to scrounge up one while prices are still reasonable and there are a few holsters out there. Such is life, making guns ain't cheap and the market culls pretty mercilessly.

[Hot Sauce]

So is P-07 confirmed discontinued?

[RealSelf]

So is P-07 confirmed discontinued?

I wouldn't say 100% confirmed but generally Midway is pretty spot-on about this stuff and I'd take their word for it more than a small retailer. I would also say that if you want to be sure someone can call CZ-USA and they may confirm this but they also may not depending on what the new Colt 'management' deems prudent.

As far as I can tell, this may only apply to the last P-07 SKU that was still in their catalog and not necessarily the last P-09 SKU in this series of P-09/P-07 pistols. There seem to be quite a few of these Suppressor Ready P-09's floating around but they may get the axe as well once those are dried up. https://cz-usa.com/product/cz-p-09-suppressor-ready-2/

[UpDok]

I did a quick Google search and found CZ P07 black frame 10-round pistols currently in stock. CZ USA has a list of discontinued firearms on their website and the black frame P07 is not one of them. They do have some P07 pistols with green & gray frames listed as discontinued but not the black frames.

I'm betting CZ UB is currently putting their best effort into supplying Ukraine. For us in America the war is halfway around the world. For the Czechs the Ukraine war is practically in their backyard. :(

[TicTacticalTimmy]

OR .... much more likely is they are being discontinued as supply has still not returned and MidwayUSA is now listing the main SKU for the P-07 as discontinued. Sign of the times, striker rules everything in the Duty Pistol world these days.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020415691?pid=458664&utm_source=wikiarms&utm_medium=referral&utm_content=deallistings&utm_campaign=wikiarmslistings


Midway puts "discontinued" on all sorts of items that are not discontinued, just how they have their website set up.

[RealSelf]

Midway puts "discontinued" on all sorts of items that are not discontinued, just how they have their website set up.

Can you share specific examples? I do imagine the folks at MidwayUSA are likely being told by the distributors they are working with that a product is discontinued, not so much directly from the company. The problem is that companies producing these things often will not say they are discontinued right away and may wait some time prior to an official announcement. I won't be surprised if 2025 marks the official announcement that CZ-USA puts this SKU on their discontinued list but that's just me. I am not saying this is 100% truth but it does not look good from my perspective and wanted to pass it along.

Hopefully you are correct and MidwayUSA may simply mean they are no longer going to be carrying this SKU, only time will tell for sure here.

[Clusterfrack]

I installed the heavy FP safety plunger spring from CGW’s new spring kit. It raised the SA pull in this gun by about 1/3lb, to just over 3#.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20241208/779fcf955006a226dbdef1572b05d14b.jpg

[TeeBee]

I installed the heavy FP safety plunger spring from CGW’s new spring kit. It raised the SA pull in this gun by about 1/3lb, to just over 3#.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20241208/779fcf955006a226dbdef1572b05d14b.jpg


After adding installing the CGW pro-grade kit, with the 15# hammer spring, my DA pull dropped from 10 to 7.5 pounds with a 2.75 pound SA. I installed the extra heavy FP block spring to bring the SA up to 3.5 pounds.

[DamnYankee]

@Clusterfrack or anyone with personal experience.
Have you had any issues with light strikes running the 13lb blue hammer spring? I have the light FPSB spring, extended firing pin and light firing pin spring installed currently with the 15lb hammer spring but I'd like to try the 13lb. I use it for my home defense pistol so reliability is also important.

[Clusterfrack]

@Clusterfrack or anyone with personal experience.
Have you had any issues with light strikes running the 13lb blue hammer spring? I have the light FPSB spring, extended firing pin and light firing pin spring installed currently with the 15lb hammer spring but I'd like to try the 13lb. I use it for my home defense pistol so reliability is also important.

I have not had light strikes with this combo, and run it in 2 guns. I load test rounds with CCI-41 military rifle primers, and the 13# spring will ignite those.

However, I don't like a SA trigger pull that's much below the low end of the stock weight (3.3#). I use the CGW heavy sear spring to add weight to the SA pull. The heavy FP safety spring can add SA weight if needed.

[DamnYankee]

I have not had light strikes with this combo, and run it in 2 guns. I load test rounds with CCI-41 military rifle primers, and the 13# spring will ignite those.

However, I don't like a SA trigger pull that's much below the low end of the stock weight (3.3#). I use the CGW heavy sear spring to add weight to the SA pull. The heavy FP safety spring can add SA weight if needed.

Thanks for the reply.
Are you still using the stock CZ hammer or have you upgraded to the CGW hammer? I thought I read somewhere that it wasn't a good idea to use the heavier sear springs with the stock hammer.

[Clusterfrack]

Thanks for the reply.
Are you still using the stock CZ hammer or have you upgraded to the CGW hammer? I thought I read somewhere that it wasn't a good idea to use the heavier sear springs with the stock hammer.

No, I'm using the full CGW Prograde kit, and a few more of their parts.

[DamnYankee]

No, I'm using the full CGW Prograde kit, and a few more of their parts.

10-4. Thanks for the info!

[Trajan]

@Clusterfrack or anyone with personal experience.
Have you had any issues with light strikes running the 13lb blue hammer spring? I have the light FPSB spring, extended firing pin and light firing pin spring installed currently with the 15lb hammer spring but I'd like to try the 13lb. I use it for my home defense pistol so reliability is also important.
Is it a light strike or a no-strike?

P07/09s had an issue 10 years ago that became more apparent with lighter springs. Basically if any of your finger got behind the trigger it could drop to half cock.

https://youtube.com/shorts/k-hKIuqZ3pE

[Clusterfrack]

Is it a light strike or a no-strike?

P07/09s had an issue 10 years ago that became more apparent with lighter springs. Basically if any of your finger got behind the trigger it could drop to half cock.

https://youtube.com/shorts/k-hKIuqZ3pE

Thanks for bringing it up. We addressed the dropping to half-cock when trigger pull is interrupted in detail in this thread--but quite a while back. I believe this is a function of the drop-safety in SA mode. I have never had this happen in over 30,000 rounds through P-07s. It takes a very contrived trigger pull to make it happen. However, MMV for people with very long fingers, like @GJM.

Interestingly, my newest P-07 came with what appeared to be upgraded fire control parts, and I cannot make it drop to half cock no matter what I do. Maybe a CZ engineer read our P-F thread? I have not heard whether the P-09c can be made to do it. In any case, I consider it to be a non-issue.

[Trajan]

Thanks for bringing it up. We addressed the dropping to half-cock when trigger pull is interrupted in detail in this thread--but quite a while back. I believe this is a function of the drop-safety in SA mode. I have never had this happen in over 30,000 rounds through P-07s. It takes a very contrived trigger pull to make it happen. However, MMV for people with very long fingers, like @GJM.

Interestingly, my newest P-07 came with what appeared to be upgraded fire control parts, and I cannot make it drop to half cock no matter what I do. Maybe a CZ engineer read our P-F thread? I have not heard whether the P-09c can be made to do it. In any case, I consider it to be a non-issue.
I haven't been able to replicate it on the single nocturne I have played with, so it very well may be resolved.