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View Full Version : HK fanboy problems: USP to P30 transition



TheTrevor
03-11-2014, 12:06 AM
I'm not quite a full-blown HK fanboy, but you wouldn't know it by looking at the pistols I've owned in recent years. All of my "practical" (i.e. non-22LR-target) pistols in my safe over the last 15 years have been HKs, specifically USP-family guns. I wasn't a particularly active or skills-oriented shooter until I had both time and budget to get focused on improving my skills a few years back. Even then, I stuck with the USP for quite a while because I was certain I wasn't anywhere close to getting the full potential out of the gun, especially as I started to realize how I'd been fooling myself with the usual low occasional-shooter standards.

Fast forward to today. I've been intensively developing my skills with a LEM-converted USP40 since last year, and it's no understatement to say that the LEM conversion completely rekindled my love for the USP. In fact, just in terms of trigger feel and reset I'd have to say that the USP version of LEM is substantially, perceptibly better than the factory LEM setup in the P30 family. Shorter reset, cleaner break, better feel as you press through FPB engagement and sear trip... the whole thing.

That said... I'm in the process of making a fairly quick transition to the P30 in 9mm LEM, and I'm running into a couple of issues that I'd like to share and solicit feedback on. I need to be pretty much squared away on the P30 4 weeks from now, shooting at least at the level of speed & accuracy I can achieve with my USP.

The problem is that my POI keeps getting pulled to the right when I'm shooting right-handed, and to the left when my left hand is driving. Until I got good sights on the gun, I figured it was just struggles with the sight picture, but it turns out I'm actually having a bit of trouble managing grip and trigger on the P30. I paid extra close attention to this on my last range trip.

Trigger distance and trigger-finger geometry

I didn't realize it at first, but the P30 has a significantly shorter trigger-to-backstrap distance with the trigger fully depressed than the USP. My LEM USP40 with the trigger pinned back measures ~62mm, and the P30 shows ~57mm in the same direction, roughly 1/4" difference. When I take a strong master grip with my right hand wrapped securely around the gun, I get very different final resting angles for the distal end of my trigger finger comparing the USP and the P30.

On the USP, my trigger finger is darn close to perpendicular to the long axis of the gun with the trigger pinned, and is perfectly perpendicular as it breaks. On the P30... not so much. By the time the trigger breaks, my index finger is bent at a slightly acute angle which only increases as I press into overtravel.

Changing backstraps doesn't seem to help, because the "large" backstrap doesn't actually do anything to affect the backstrap-to-trigger distance. Seems like they weren't thinking about trigger reach when they were designing the modular panels.

Trigger shape

The USP trigger is reasonably wide and very gently curved across the face, just enough for comfort. The P30 trigger, on the other hand, is definitely narrower and has a more aggressive curvature across the face, with molded-in texture lines running vertically down the face of the trigger. I've grown accustomed to being able to apply pressure pretty much anywhere across the front face of the USP trigger and generate a straight-back press. This does NOT work on the P30.

Get to the point, already...

When I pull the USP trigger, it comes straight back and stops before the forces on my trigger finger start to deflect or slide the point of contact to either side.

When i pull the P30 trigger, I'm finding it quite difficult to keep my press focused on the front of the trigger all the way through and generate a straight-back pull. Once my finger bends past 90deg it rolls right over that rounded front face towards the far side, right as the shot breaks, steering the shot subtly towards the shooting hand side.

What's killing me is that it looks fine in dry-fire, because unless I'm watching very closely AND know what to look for watching the sights, that little bias to the left or right is oh so subtle and easy to miss.

Solutions

Obviously, I'm going to continue to work on trigger control and grip to see if simply retraining my trigger fingers will address this. There is a narrow range of acceptable fingertip-to-trigger contact points and angles that DO work for me on the P30, I just can't find them instinctively and consistently yet.

I'm also going to try a hardware solution to help things along. I ordered a spare trigger along with some other parts tonight, mostly TLG-spec springs plus spares. The plan:
* add an overtravel stop by drilling and tapping a 4-40 hole in the trigger and installing a set screw
* gently recontour the front surface of the trigger to flatten it out to a USP-like profile, eliminating the molded ridges

So.... Am I missing something here? I mean, I'm not flinging lead all over the target backer, I'm just consistently pulling left or right despite good sight alignment and a seemingly-good trigger press.

Open to suggestions. I'll have a couple of days of dry-fire and 1-2 range sessions before I get the new (spare) trigger modified and installed, glad to try whatever diagnostic or corrective drill the PF Hive Mind can come up with...

BaiHu
03-11-2014, 12:24 AM
My short unprofessional opinion:
1. When I think it's my P30, I give it to at least one other Indian. If at least 2 Indians share my problem, I look at the gun again.
2. Dry fire. Which you already offered.
3. Do you have the larger side and back straps on?


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

TheTrevor
03-11-2014, 12:37 AM
My short unprofessional opinion:
1. When I think it's my P30, I give it to at least one other Indian. If at least 2 Indians share my problem, I look at the gun again.

My drug dealer, er, main contact at the store/range I frequent most often seems like he has his head on straight. I might ask him to shoot some 20yd/5rd strings and see what happens if he's there the next time I go in. Sadly, I don't really have any shootin' buddies locally (outside of a few in the USPSA club) who are high-skill-level shooters.


2. Dry fire. Which you already offered.
3. Do you have the larger side and back straps on?

Covered the side/back straps question, might have gotten lost in the long-ish post. Bulge on large backstrap does nothing to change distance between the web of my thumb and the trigger, difference is all lower down. Verified with digital calipers tonight. Frankly, the more I play with the large backstrap the more I wonder WTF Gunter was thinking when he came up with that design.

I have tried different size side plates, currently running the medium backstrap with the large side plates. May tinker with that a bit more next trip, now that I've fabricated a clip out of 2.5mm wire to temporarily hold everything in place while I shoot so I don't have to keep driving the pin in and out.

ETA: And thanks for the input on what to consider, much appreciated.

TheTrevor
03-11-2014, 12:44 AM
I know this is heresy, but what I'd really love to do is build up the front contact surface of the trigger by 5mm and contour it perfectly for my finger so that my trigger finger angles and movement are pretty close to the USP.

I suppose the other thing I could do would be to have Gray Guns to make me a custom setup that breaks the shot 5mm forward of the stock one. :cool: If the sear tripped before my trigger finger angle got too acute, well, problem solved.

GardoneVT
03-11-2014, 01:49 AM
Try an asymmetrical side-strap/backstrap combo, perhaps?

TheTrevor
03-11-2014, 02:06 AM
Try an asymmetrical side-strap/backstrap combo, perhaps?

Good thought. Tried that, didn't seem to shift POI to any significant degree for me.

I also (without realizing it at the time) adjusted the new sights to compensate for the deflection to the right when shooting right handed. This led to hilariously bad WHO shooting (very aggravating at the time) where I couldn't even figure out where my shots were hitting the chewed up cardboard backer. Compensating for the right hand deflection by drifting the rear sight more than doubled WHO error. That's actually what clued me in to look at what was happening in the last milliseconds of the trigger pull and break.

ToddG
03-11-2014, 02:40 AM
Measurements and modifications and mental gymnastics aside, how about just consciously putting effort into working on a straight back trigger press? You said your finger slides around during the trigger press. Stop doing that. Try using a little more finger through the trigger guard. Most of all, try thinking about all the tiny dimensional differences in the trigger less and the trigger pull more. If you're just now realizing that you've been practicing the trigger pull extensively with a hitch or error, you're stuck having to fix that habit. It sucks, especially given your Rogers timeframe, but it's something you can probably deal with in dry fire 90% and then just verify live.

The only real difference I ever found between the P2000/P30 LEM and the USP/HK45 LEM was the reset distance. The USP/HK45 has an advantage there, though one with little real practical value outside of listing split times on the internet (which I do all the time so no criticism from me :cool: ).

TheTrevor
03-11-2014, 03:35 AM
Try using a little more finger through the trigger guard.

DingDingDing we have a winner. I'm 99% sure that did it. I was iterating in the direction of less and less finger through the trigger guard, ending up at an untenable most-effective finger position using practically the tip of my finger pressing the trigger.

Now I'm wrapping my index finger over to the point that the first knuckle crease is across the trigger... and I can get a nice clean straight-back pull every time. Domo arigatou gozaimashita, sensei.


If you're just now realizing that you've been practicing the trigger pull extensively with a hitch or error, you're stuck having to fix that habit. It sucks, especially given your Rogers timeframe, but it's something you can probably deal with in dry fire 90% and then just verify live.

Haven't had the gun long enough to form any significant training scars around trigger management, I don't think, especially since my grip is unchanged and shifting the contact point seems to do the trick. Hopefully the magic tendinitis treatment will work its wonders and I'll be able to get in some serious dry-fire tomorrow then hit the range a couple of days this week.


The only real difference I ever found between the P2000/P30 LEM and the USP/HK45 LEM was the reset distance. The USP/HK45 has an advantage there, though one with little real practical value outside of listing split times on the internet (which I do all the time so no criticism from me :cool: ).

The differences seem likely to diminish once I switch out the springs (so both guns are similar LEM setups) and get another 1500 rounds through the P30. And, y'know, figure out how to mash that trigger thing without making the gun go all wibbly-wobbly.

I'm still going to fit an overtravel stop to the spare trigger and swap it in, though. For some reason the P30 trigger just seems a little squishier in overtravel than the USP.

LSP972
03-11-2014, 07:43 AM
The only real difference I ever found between the P2000/P30 LEM and the USP/HK45 LEM was the reset distance. The USP/HK45 has an advantage there, though one with little real practical value outside of listing split times on the internet

This. It used to bother me; when I would shoot the wife's P2000, I would frequently double-clutch the trigger on it. Turns out that was mainly operator headspace and timing; the last Givens class I went to, this past December, I shot the HK45C the first day and my 9mm P30 the second day. Know what? Not the first double-clutch. And I shot it just as fast and accurately as the HK45C.

That was a real eye-opener for me. I guess I was too busy thinking about the reset differences during the range work, and was more concerned with solving the shooting problem in the class? Dunno; but I would wager large, Trevor, that this particular issue you're having is all between your ears... darn sure was for me.

.

TheTrevor
03-11-2014, 12:26 PM
Pretty sure "shove more finger across the trigger" was most of it. The only reason I don't say 100% is that the couple of fast-paced strings I snuck in when the range was busy enough to get away with some rapid fire did seem to straighten out a bit and push less off to one side or the other.

The interesting lesson here is that I apparently had a training/teaching scar around how far across the trigger it's ok to put your finger. At some point I'd picked up the idea that this (putting the first knuckle crease across the trigger) was bad technique. Hopefully I haven't screwed up anyone else who should have been shooting this way.

Chemsoldier
03-11-2014, 04:30 PM
Is USP to P30 transition problems something that falls into the category of "1st World Problems"? :p

TheTrevor
03-11-2014, 05:01 PM
Is USP to P30 transition problems something that falls into the category of "1st World Problems"? :p

I'm glad someone got the joke. :cool: