Need holster suggestion...

[LSP972]

I'm taking #1 grandson (18 YOA) to a Givens class next month. He'll be shooting his Beretta 92F. The boy was weaned on Glocks and HKs, but I got him the Beretta when he decided to join the Marine Corps (probably next year). He actually likes the Beretta better, and shoots it well.

I have a Yacqui slide type belt holster for it, but he should probably have something more conventional for the class. While we're not going the Uncle Mike's/cheap nylon route, I don't see the need for a Rosen/Sparks/Kramer semi-custom leather rig either.

I settled on my choices a long time ago, and haven't kept up with the latest/greatest in composite (i.e., plastic/kydex) offerings, except to know to avoid the dreaded Serpa and that ilk.

So, what do you guys recommend for a decent OWB "range" holster that won't cost a kidney? He can use one of my old Rosen belts, so we've got that covered.

My old agency issues the SafariLand ALS to the plainclothes guys; it looks to be 10-8. But I imagine there is a whole raft of offerings to choose from, that I know zilch about.

I'm thinking plastic or kydex here; I know I can fall back on oldies-but-goodies like the Askins Avenger, etc., from Bianchi/SafariLand/Hume/etc., but I'd rather not have him show up with a barely broken-in leather holster.

All suggestions greatly appreciated...

.

[JeffJ]

Not sure of their offerings for the 92 specifically, but Blade-Tech makes some good, inexpensive, available holsters that would probably do just right for that.

[Sal Picante]

Safariland 5187 or 5188 holster is probably the cheapest option.

Just as reference, Optics Planet has 'em listed for ~30.00 (http://www.opticsplanet.com/safariland-5187-belt-holster-for-pistols-stx-plain-black-right-hand-5187-73-411.html?gclid=CMy8l9iBxLoCFSgSMwoda3cAJQ&ef_id=UbDKJwAABT5NcRCP:20131101163200:s)

(I don't particularly like OP, and since they're a nightmare to navigate, figured that I'd include the link is for right hand 92...)

[Default.mp3]

RCS has the M9 on their quick-ship option (http://www.ravenconcealment.com/quick-ship-products/production-phantom-holsters/quick-ship-phantom-modular-holster); 80 USD plus shipping, not sure if that's beyond your budget.

[JBP55]

Safariland ALS model 6377, probably the same one LSP issues to non uniform personnel.

[jmcrawf1]

I'm a firm believer that the safariland als models are the best retention type OWB holsters available.

[psalms144.1]

Safariland ALS model 6377, probably the same one LSP issues to non uniform personnel.
My recommendation exactly. At Optics Planet, you're probably looking at about $40-50 shipped...

[Byron]

Oh man... I hate even admitting this...

I have an Uncle Mike's plastic paddle holster (http://www.umledirect.com/kydex-holsters.html) that I bought around '06 or '07. It has always been my "last resort" holster that gets thrown in my gear bag. I only ever use it for the rare occasion that I want to carry OWB at the range (all my other holsters are IWB), or when someone wants to borrow an OWB.

For around $26, it offers a good value, even though it clearly has issues. Most notably, you could easily destroy one with your bare hands, so don't use it for force-on-force or other activities that might subject a holster to impact or torque.* Mine has a solid paddle, unlike the skeletonized ones they show now.

If I wanted to buy another dirt-cheap "range only" holster these days, I'd probably get a Blade-Tech Revolution (http://shop.blade-tech.com/revolution-holster-c-1_23_30.html), which is essentially a better version of the above UM. Or perhaps more accurately, I would bet the UM is a rip-off of the Revolution. It's only a few dollars more, but it doesn't look like they make one for the Beretta.

*I did actually wear the UM in some ECQC evolutions in '07. It survived, but that's because it shifted around on my belt when subjected to impact, and squirted my gun out when pulled on.

[LSP972]

Byron, one of those Uncle Mike's "utility" plastic holsters is what I had in mind, but I couldn't locate one for the 92. We have one for the HK P2000, and my wife used it in her first class with excellent results.

Moot point now, as his Raven Phantom is here, waiting…

.

[Byron]

Moot point now, as his Raven Phantom is here, waiting…
Awesome!

Well I guess we know who he considers his favorite grandpa ;)




Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

[LSP972]

Awesome!

Well I guess we know who he considers his favorite grandpa ;)




Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Oh, no doubt. Especially since there is a bunch of iron here with his name on them, when I go 10-7.

.

[FotoTomas]

If you need anything else let me know. The Beretta was my issue piece for many years and I no longer have one. I do have a pile of holsters for them to include Safariland ALS drop leg, Safariland 070, several UM triple retention models both belt and drop to include the UM kxdex belt/paddle rig, Galco belt and paddle some Aker, Gould and Goodrich and various others including a Bianchi M-12 system and Bianchi Tactical. The only one I am determined to keep is my Milt Sparks Summer Special. you never know...a 92 might follow me home someday again. :) The rest are available for deep discounts or less! :) Most are right hand, some are left hand for training purposes.

[Chuck Haggard]

My first answer is;

http://www.holsterops.com/7ts-belt-slide

[JBP55]

My first answer is;

http://www.holsterops.com/7ts-belt-slide


I have another one on order as well as another JM Kydex.

[jmcrawf1]

I have another one on order as well as another JM Kydex.

What model JM do you like? I see there is two versions of the IWB.

[LSP972]

If you need anything else let me know. The Beretta was my issue piece for many years and I no longer have one. I do have a pile of holsters for them to include Safariland ALS drop leg, Safariland 070, several UM triple retention models both belt and drop to include the UM kxdex belt/paddle rig, Galco belt and paddle some Aker, Gould and Goodrich and various others...

Well, rats. Wish I known that before dropping $80 on this Raven.

Preliminary work-ups indicate its going to seriously eat the finish on the high points of the pistol; I guess its supposed to be that tight, but dayum...



.

[JodyH]

Well, rats. Wish I known that before dropping $80 on this Raven.

Preliminary work-ups indicate its going to seriously eat the finish on the high points of the pistol; I guess its supposed to be that tight, but dayum...

I took a heat gun to my Raven Phantom.
It was way too tight when I got it.
A little heat, a little hand molding and it's just about perfect.

[JBP55]

What model JM do you like? I see there is two versions of the IWB.

PM sent.

[Wendell]

...this Raven. Preliminary work-ups indicate its going to seriously eat the finish on the high points of the pistol; I guess its supposed to be that tight, but dayum...

A shot of silicone spray will work wonders.

[LSP972]

A shot of silicone spray will work wonders.

And I just so happen to have a can of that lying around; dunno why I didn't think of it.

Thanks.

.

[LSP972]

I took a heat gun to my Raven Phantom.
It was way too tight when I got it.
A little heat, a little hand molding and it's just about perfect.

I did think of that, though I suppose a hair dryer doesn't get hot enough for that?

.

[JodyH]

I did think of that, though I suppose a hair dryer doesn't get hot enough for that?

.
Some do.
Submerging it in boiling water for a few seconds will soften it up some as well.

[Tamara]

Preliminary work-ups indicate its going to seriously eat the finish on the high points of the pistol...

Keeps it from looking like a safe queen. ;)

(I've kicked around the idea of offering a "stonewashed" finish before. People would buy that, so it looked like their guns had been in the kitten. :D )

[LSP972]

Yes, but the finish on the boy's 92F is weak to begin with. It is actually peeling a bit, on the slide near the muzzle, and has already developed "silver edges" on the high spots from the limited presentations he's done from a Yacqui slide type leather belt scabbard. Two days of multiple presentations out of this thing is likely to leave the slide in the white.

Jody, I just remembered that I have a heat gun of sorts- it is designed to shrink the plastic heat-shrink material I cover my balsa r/c model airplanes with. In terms of heat output, its more than a hair dryer but less than an industrial heat gun.

Should I heat it carefully with the gun in place, or get it hot and then stick the pistol in there?

.

[JodyH]

I usually put 2 or 3 layers of blue painters tape on the slide, heat the kydex until it just starts to soften then insert the pistol and let it cool. Repeat as necessary. If the kydex looks shiny it's too hot. Practice on an old holster if you have one.

[LSP972]

I usually put 2 or 3 layers of blue painters tape on the slide, heat the kydex until it just starts to soften then insert the pistol and let it cool.


Makes sense; I'll give it a shot.

Thanks.

.

[Tamara]

I usually put 2 or 3 layers of blue painters tape on the slide, heat the kydex until it just starts to soften then insert the pistol and let it cool. Repeat as necessary. If the kydex looks shiny it's too hot. Practice on an old holster if you have one.

Does this actually reduce visible wear on the pistol? None of my kydex for my M&P is notably tight, but it's left a shiny on the slide and beveled heck out of the CTC Lightguard (http://booksbikesboomsticks.blogspot.com/2013/11/ill-just-leave-this-here.html) over the years. I'd just chalked it up to the nature of the beast.

[JodyH]

It doesn't really stop the wear, it just loosens the holster up some so it doesn't pull your pants to your pits on every draw.

[LSP972]

Jody, that worked like a champ.

Many thanks, bud.

.

[HCM]

LSP,

Another issue to be aware of on the Ravens are the chicago screws for belt loops coming loose. A little red lock-tite is good insurance once you're happy with the location of the loops.

[Chuck Whitlock]

None of my kydex for my M&P is notably tight, but it's left a shiny on the slide and beveled heck out of the CTC Lightguard (http://booksbikesboomsticks.blogspot.com/2013/11/ill-just-leave-this-here.html) over the years. I'd just chalked it up to the nature of the beast.

Is that M&P a compact or full size?

And how is that lightguard holding up? My duty G23 Isn't happy reliability-wise with TLRs or an X300. I was thinking that since attachment is via the triggerguard instead of the rail......

[Tamara]

Is that M&P a compact or full size?

And how is that lightguard holding up? My duty G23 Isn't happy reliability-wise with TLRs or an X300. I was thinking that since attachment is via the triggerguard instead of the rail......

Full-size nine. Lightguard has run fine for about a year and a half since I put it on. It's been through both the CTC Midnight 3-Gun Matches, AFHF, MAG-40, and a fair amount of range use and it's still running. It's got that bevel from the holster on it, but that doesn't affect the operation.

Be aware that it does locate via the trigger guard and the rail, although I don't know it's as rigid on the rail as a tightened-down Streamlight...

[Chuck Whitlock]

Be aware that it does locate via the trigger guard and the rail, although I don't know it's as rigid on the rail as a tightened-down Streamlight...

Understood. I'm aware that it the rail is utilized, but I am under the assumption that all the hanging-on-for-dear-life isn't happening there as with the SL/SF options. Significantly less weight, too.
I just hope that I will be good with the activation switch as well. I have SF/DG-11 and SL Contour switches, but they kind of kitten up my grip. Doesn't help that my hands are small enough that a GFA destroys my trigger reach. Ironic that my stubby digited-ness virtually requires the use of grip activation to make it workable at all.

[Tamara]

Understood. I'm aware that it the rail is utilized, but I am under the assumption that all the hanging-on-for-dear-life isn't happening there as with the SL/SF options. Significantly less weight, too.
I just hope that I will be good with the activation switch as well. I have SF/DG-11 and SL Contour switches, but they kind of kitten up my grip. Doesn't help that my hands are small enough that a GFA destroys my trigger reach. Ironic that my stubby digited-ness virtually requires the use of grip activation to make it workable at all.

Here (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151425925014825&l=92305defaa)'s a picture of the Lightguards on my M&P 9 and G19 side-by-side, and here are some notes from a blog post I've been meaning to write:

Minor variations make for big differences: I'd recommend CTC's Lightguard for the M&P without hesitation. On the Glock? I'd recommend trying it first.

The switch requires a more perfect grip and more deliberate activation on the Glock, and seems to interfere more with getting one's hand way up on the gun. It seems to be a byproduct of the shape of the bottom of the trigger guard combined with the molded finger grooves on the Glock's frontstrap.


On the Glock, it's like the tried to contour the switch to follow the little cutout under the trigger guard and left a notch that's too small to really get my finger up into to help my grip, but enough of my finger gets up in there to make pressing the switch a more deliberate motion than I'd ideally prefer.

[Chuck Whitlock]

Thanks for that, Tam. Extremely helpful.
The SL contour switch for the Glock has the same issue. Sigh.....nobody high speed enough in my AO to have one that I can coonfinger.

I've about decided to have the middle grooves removed along with some stippling on my personal G23 and G27, but that doesn't help with the duty gun.
Seriously thinking going M&P post retirement. I really like the setup of your M&P....almost seamless integration of the CT units.

[LSP972]

LSP,

Another issue to be aware of on the Ravens are the chicago screws for belt loops coming loose. A little red lock-tite is good insurance once you're happy with the location of the loops.

Got it, I'll be aware.

Thanks.

.