Another Poll on Flashlights:: What features are important?

[cclaxton]

Last poll was on brands and models.
Setting aside brand and model, what features are important to have on a flashlight?
CC

[Odin Bravo One]

Ummmmm......

How about that it works every time I ask it to?


(Oh, and there is no such thing as a waterproof flashlight.)

[Savage Hands]

Different lights for different jobs, nothing will do it all.

[cclaxton]

Ummmmm......
How about that it works every time I ask it to?
(Oh, and there is no such thing as a waterproof flashlight.)

Waterproof to 500 feet...they claim. 400 lumens, too.
http://www.batteryjunction.com/uk-sl4-led-bx-opt.html
CC

[Odin Bravo One]

Send me one........I'll PROVE that it isn't in about a week.

I think that one might have made it 8 days.......I'd have to check the T&E reports.

Any company can say anything they want about their product. It doesn't have to be true, it just has to sell product. Case in point.......the strobing effect that is all the rage.

[Tamara]

While absolute waterproofness is not a big deal to me, I would like to know that I can butterfingers my light into a puddle or bathtub without it going tango uniform.

[Josh Runkle]

Ummmmm......

How about that it works every time I ask it to?


(Oh, and there is no such thing as a waterproof flashlight.)

True, but it's still nice to be able to have a light take water and pressure for a good amount of time. I was docking up in a storm a few years ago and a buddy dropped my light in 10 feet of water while it was on. It stayed on for an hour, producing a mysterious glow until we retrieved it. Washed it off, good as new. (Surefire E2DL)

I've also taken other surefire's on night dives and they work great. Not sure that I need it to last underwater for 8 days if I can't do the same.

[Byron]

Send me one........I'll PROVE that it isn't in about a week.

I think that one might have made it 8 days.......I'd have to check the T&E reports.
Is there a common type of failure that you've found in these prolonged tests?

Are the housings not substantial enough to achieve the pressure ratings being claimed?
Are the materials not holding up to saltwater and environmental conditions?

[Odin Bravo One]

For clarification, the lights don't get submerged for days.........

And granted, they do get abused. Much more abuse than most people ever would subject their light to.

But the point is I don't believe in waterproof. And I don't buy into advertising hype.

...........Even dive watches fail...........at least the ones that most people can afford.........

[ToddG]

But the point is I don't believe in waterproof. And I don't buy into advertising hype.

Then the joke is on you, buddy, because I'm developing advertising hype that is waterproof down to 400m...

[Odin Bravo One]

Then the joke is on you, buddy, because I'm developing advertising hype that is waterproof down to 400m...

Send two for T&E, and maybe I'll buy it............

[Byron]

But the point is I don't believe in waterproof. And I don't buy into advertising hype.
I certainly appreciate that.

I was hoping you'd be willing to share more information about common patterns of failure.

I have nothing but respect for your findings; I just hope to better understand how those findings might apply to my own life.

If it's something along the lines of,

"100m flashlights usually start leaking past 10m, no matter how much you care for them"
that would impact me much differently than

"100m flashlights are accurately rated when fresh out of the box, but regular o-ring maintenance and application of silicone grease is critical if you want your seal to last."

[cclaxton]

Some interesting observations from the Poll:

Reliability, Durability (Shockproof rated highly as well), and CR123 batteries are the most important features;
Tailcap momentary and click/turn seem to be the preferred controls;
Pocket Clip seems to be the preferred carry option;
At least 200 Lumens preferred brightness;
Most prefer at least 2 levels of brightness;
A surprising number wanted some level of "waterproofing" (setting aside the debate about that question);

Surprising/Interesting observations:
No one chose the striking bezel as an important feature;
No one chose the side on/off switch control;
Only two chose the importance of a high quality holster;
Very few put importance on strobing or SOS/long duration flashing;
Beam Size/Coverage not that important;
Ability to fit/grip for pistol not that important (Maybe not many using "Hands Together" pistol-flashlight grip?)
No one chose 90 degree head or adjustable head;
Combat Ring/tethering not that important;
Size/weight not that important;

Thanks for all the responses....keep the votes coming!!!

CC

[Odin Bravo One]

I certainly appreciate that.

I was hoping you'd be willing to share more information about common patterns of failure.

I have nothing but respect for your findings; I just hope to better understand how those findings might apply to my own life.

If it's something along the lines of,

"100m flashlights usually start leaking past 10m, no matter how much you care for them"
that would impact me much differently than

"100m flashlights are accurately rated when fresh out of the box, but regular o-ring maintenance and application of silicone grease is critical if you want your seal to last."

I can't comment on brands or models.........and I do my very best to never get in the water at all, let alone deeper than 10m!!! (I mean seriously, you know you are too deep when strange fish start offering you candy).

But generically, what I have found is battery compartments, as well as the bulb/bezel are the weak points. Since most "tactical" flashlights burn through batteries rather quickly, the constant changing of batteries weakens the waterproof seals. New O-rings and silicone help, but it's not a sure thing. Also, given that most require a lithium battery, there are a lot of problems with lithium batteries and water. If I know my light is gonna take a dip, I generally try to double/triple the water protection.

If I want a "waterproof" flashlight, I usually buy the Pelican "MyteLight" lights. They are cheap enough that I don't get upset if it drowns. But it is far from a tactical light...........

[Tamara]

(I mean seriously, you know you are too deep when strange fish start offering you candy).

That's the internet for today, kids. Y'all can go home now. :D


Since most "tactical" flashlights burn through batteries rather quickly, the constant changing of batteries weakens the waterproof seals. New O-rings and silicone help, but it's not a sure thing.

That's the weak point on my little Led Lensers; being a teeny AAA light, the bitty O-ring gets shredded or disappeared on first or second battery change and it's a teeny strip of thread tape, silicone grease, and prayers keeping the water out from there on.

[Byron]

Thanks, Sean - much appreciated!

I think the deepest I've ever taken a light was ~20m, but that was one of two whole night dives I've done in my entire life :o
It's been a while since I've been diving though... I think I may need to go find some of those candy fish.

For every other situation so far in my life, 10 inches of water resistance would have indeed been plenty, much less meters.

Simply out of curiosity, have you ever played around with one of the Glo-Toobs (http://www.glo-toob-usa.com/#!lithium-series/cxvc)? They aren't really "flashlights"... more like battery-powered chemlights (or whatever term would be less of an oxymoron), but holy crap are they built like tanks.

If you're interested, I could send you one of mine to play with. I've pitched them into solid objects at full speed and tried to crush them in "realistic" ways (i.e. I've wedged them under heavy objects, but have never been so sadistic as to put one in a vice and crank on it). I've never broken one, though I was only trying to abuse them: I never specifically set out with total destruction in mind.

[Odin Bravo One]

Yeah.............I don't know what I would do with it?

Not a big fan of glow sticks. They have a very limited application. Mostly they are good for keeping children occupied at BBQ's once the sun has gone down.

[cclaxton]

Yeah.............I don't know what I would do with it?

Not a big fan of glow sticks. They have a very limited application. Mostly they are good for keeping children occupied at BBQ's once the sun has gone down.

Shooting Night Matches...All shooters should wear something to support safety.

CC

[Tamara]

All shooters should wear something to support safety.

Oh, jeez, what color ribbon is that, now?

[Odin Bravo One]

Shooting Night Matches...All shooters should wear something to support safety.

CC

I think my night matches are shot under different circumstances ...........

[Dropkick]

That's the weak point on my little Led Lensers; being a teeny AAA light, the bitty O-ring gets shredded or disappeared on first or second battery change and it's a teeny strip of thread tape, silicone grease, and prayers keeping the water out from there on.

I have one model of the Led Lensers / Coast AAA lights that I had on my key chain for a couple years, a while back. Poor thing looks like it when through a rock tumbler. The attachment point gave out, but the o-ring is still fine.

[Byron]

I don't know what I would do with it?

You're right; I really don't have a good answer for that.

I love them, but mostly for silly "gee-whiz" reasons. I keep some in the car, along with road flares, because they seriously grab attention while strobing, but have never needed them.

You can take some fun pictures with them though :p

http://byrong.com/DSC_9217-2-smaller.jpg



Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

[cclaxton]

IP-0 to IP-8 Ratings explained. Note: "The standard aims to provide users more detailed information than vague marketing terms such as waterproof."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code

http://www.ce-mag.com/archive/06/ARG/bisenius.htm

CC

[Chuck Haggard]

The whole strike bezel idea was invented by clothing makers to shred your jeans and force you to buy more.


You can indeed split someone to the bone with a shot from a flashlight with a plain old bezel.



IMHO a flashlight needs a momentary switch that is reliable and user friendly, overall reliability, durability, and enough output to do the job at hand. That's it.

Most people have no idea how or when to apply strobing and kitten it all up. Most of the strobing flashlights made after the Gladius have retarded gimmick switches that suck.

If I have a decent momentary switch than I always have a strobe feature available, it's called "my thumb".


If the light has a dimmer switch that can be used for admin chores then that is a bonus, but if it compromises any of the other features then it's a no-go.

[cclaxton]

Based on the results of this poll, I did some research on tactical flashlights that:
1) Use CR123 batteries;
2) At least 200 lumens;
3) Come with a pocket clip;
3) Are waterproof to at least 2m (Note all the Surefire ads have removed any reference to IP rating..most say weatherproof or water resistant);
4) Have a momentary and clickable/twistable cap switch;
5) Have a reasonable expectation of reliability and shock resistance;
6) Have a reasonable battery life;

Two categories: Lights that use one CR123 and those that use two.

ONE CR123 MODELS:
- Fenix PD22;
- Olight M10;
- Nitecore EX11.2 (Auto-dimming);
- Nitecore Infilux IFE1 (500 lumens, completely variable output)
- Nitecore MT1C;
- Surefire EB1 Series;
- Streamlight ProTac 1L (Only 180 lumens);
- Klarus XT1C;
- Klarus P1C;
- Jetbeam DDC10 Digital Display (Attacking Cone option);
- Sunwayman V11R (500 lumens and really cool camo paint);
- Sunwayman S10R;
- Terralux TT1 (easy access to strobe mode);
- Powertac E10;

TWO CR123 MODELS:
- Olight M20 Series;
- Olight T20 Series;
- Fenix PD32;
- Fenix LD22;
- Surefire LX2 (Two level momentary, turn to keep on);
- Surefire EB2 Series;
- Surefire E2D Series;
- Streamlight ProtTac 2L;
- Streamlight ProTac HL (600 lumens);
- Klarus ST2C (820/240 lumens)
- Jetbeam Jet III M;
- Jetbeam Raptor RRT-21 (460 lumens);
- Jetbeam DDC20 Digital Display (Attacking Cone Option);
- Terralux TT-4 ( 520 lumens, Easy access to strobe mode);
- Terralux TT-5 (650 lumens, easy access to strobe mode $99);
- Lumapower Signature GX 450 lumens (Unclear IPX rating);
- Powertac T2C;
- AE Light MK2;
- AE Light Dual Switch Police Light (480 lumens);

Others you may want to consider/alternates:
- Surefire Z2X (No pocket clip, Combatring);
- Surefire G2X Series (No pocket clip);
- Streamlight Nightfigher X (No pocket clip);
- Sunwayman C20C (Side switch instead of tailcap switch);
- Sunwayman V20C (No pocket clip, combatring);

Jetbeam Attacking Cone: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/JETBeam-DD001-broken-window-attacking-to-the-end-Cone-used-for-escape-in-case-of-emergency/829036_1076305201.html

I was impressed with the features of the Terralux. I will look at buying one of them for the dedicated strobe switch. Also, I really liked the Sunwayman V11R with the cool camo paintjob. I can't believe you can get flashlights that take one CR123 that will generate 500 lumens...amazing.

These are from listings that show flashlights that are in-stock and ready to ship, not "new" models that are not yet shipping or just now shipping. I am not responsible if you purchase one based on this list and are disappointed or didn't get what you asked for. It is your responsibility to review each flashlight and ensure it has the features you are wanting.

CC

[Byron]

Based on the results of this poll, I did some research on tactical flashlights that
...
5) Have a reasonable expectation of reliability and shock resistance;
How did you evaluate #5 in your research?

[TGS]

I can't comment on brands or models.........and I do my very best to never get in the water at all, let alone deeper than 10m!!! (I mean seriously, you know you are too deep when strange fish start offering you candy).

But generically, what I have found is battery compartments, as well as the bulb/bezel are the weak points. Since most "tactical" flashlights burn through batteries rather quickly, the constant changing of batteries weakens the waterproof seals. New O-rings and silicone help, but it's not a sure thing. Also, given that most require a lithium battery, there are a lot of problems with lithium batteries and water. If I know my light is gonna take a dip, I generally try to double/triple the water protection.

If I want a "waterproof" flashlight, I usually buy the Pelican "MyteLight" lights. They are cheap enough that I don't get upset if it drowns. But it is far from a tactical light...........

FWIW, most of us in tech/cave diving have no problems with lights flooding, except for user errors (like not sealing/closing the light). Have you tried any lights from our niche of underwater exploration, where we're submerged hundreds of feet for hours?

[rudy99]

One feature I'm curious about is whether it would be more preferred to have a clicky on/off tailcap that is capable of momentary off/on or if a momentary with a twist to stay on is preferred. Reading Pat Rogers and others posts on LF, I'd think having a constant click on would be preferred, but then you read this blog entry from breachbangclear (http://www.breachbangclear.com/site/10-blog/510-concerns-for-weapon-mounted-lights.html) and clicky tailcaps are the devil. I guess this is a case where I've picked up the conclusions, but honestly don't know enough about the "why" to make an intelligent decision on one of these two options.

I'll note in the survey, momentary on/off was ahead of clicky, but then again you can have both in the same application, so I don't know how people interpreted these options.

[VolGrad]

It's already been stated different lights/features for different uses.

I always have one of the little Streamlight Nano lights on my key chain.
I almost always have a Streamlight MicroStream loose in my pocket. (I don't generally clip things to my pocket. As a general rule I feel it makes you look like a redneck or a tactical Timmy or both.)
I often have a Streamlight ProTac 1L loose in my pocket instead of the MicroStream.
I have a Streamlight ProTac 2L in each vehicle.
I have a Streamlight ProTac HL on my nightstand.
I have a Streamlight TLR-1s on my nightstand G17.

As you can see I like Streamlight. I have owned a good number of SureFires over the years as well but the Streamlights have performed well for me and generally offer a better overall value when you compare features to price. I won't name drop but have asked two well known trainers in classes what lights they trust. Both said SureFire first, Streamlight second, and there is no third.

For an EDC light I am more concerned with general utility than tactical application. I don't need blinding, seizure inducing output. I do like the fact the ProTac series has multiple output levels though because I can light it up in a dark theater to find the keys I dropped. I can hand it to my daughter in the back seat of the car to read by. I can do these things without causing a disturbance in the force. I can use the higher output for other applications, as needed. Durability & reliability are important as is being water resistant. I like tailcaps that are momentary on/off with a constant on feature. Clips ... meh. I do want a nice compact package though. Everyone doesn't need to know what all gear I carry by having a giant saber showing on my pocket or belt.

[Byron]

One feature I'm curious about is whether it would be more preferred to have a clicky on/off tailcap that is capable of momentary off/on or if a momentary with a twist to stay on is preferred.
A big part of this will be dictated by personal preference as well as how you plan to use the light.

(Full disclosure: I'm no one special. I don't have mil/le experience. I've participated in lowlight FoF, which has influenced my thoughts, but I don't claim to hold "the truth.")

On a task light, I prefer* a clicky. Under calm conditions, it is extremely convenient. It allows me momentary light or constant light, using only one hand. Twist switches can be a bit annoying for minor tasks, as they usually require two hands to switch to constant-on.

On a "combat" light, I prefer* a twist. When I get excited, I find it more difficult to accurately judge the difference in thumb pressure needed for a quick burst instead of constant-on. The risk of a clicky, therefore, is turning the light completely on when I only meant to shine it for a brief moment. I've made this mistake more than once in FoF. The twist switch is comforting in this role as it doesn't matter how hard I smash it: I will always get momentary light.

[*I say "prefer" because I'm not dogmatic about it.]

Clicky switches vary as much as triggers. Some have a long amount of travel; some short. Some require a lot of force (comparatively speaking) to fully click; some very little. It's also worth noting that a click-switch has more moving parts than a twist-switch, and is more likely to eventually fail.

I think both switches have pros and cons in addition to those I mentioned. I think someone who knows what they are doing could use either switch effectively. I also understand, however, why a person might have strong feelings one way or the other.

[cclaxton]

How did you evaluate #5 in your research?
I googled the brand flashlight and looked for complaints, such as epinions, yahoo, etc.

It's not scientific by any means. If forum members have good/bad experiences, I encourage them to write them here.

CC

[cclaxton]

One feature I'm curious about is whether it would be more preferred to have a clicky on/off tailcap that is capable of momentary off/on or if a momentary with a twist to stay on is preferred. Reading Pat Rogers and others posts on LF, I'd think having a constant click on would be preferred, but then you read this blog entry from breachbangclear (http://www.breachbangclear.com/site/10-blog/510-concerns-for-weapon-mounted-lights.html) and clicky tailcaps are the devil. I guess this is a case where I've picked up the conclusions, but honestly don't know enough about the "why" to make an intelligent decision on one of these two options.

I'll note in the survey, momentary on/off was ahead of clicky, but then again you can have both in the same application, so I don't know how people interpreted these options.

It is so difficult to present every type of control on these flashlights. It is an area where mfr's innovate. For instance, the Terralux has two tailcap switches, one for strobe and one for full. When you press all the way on the full control, it clicks the light ON. Most have momentary ON when you press the button, but some don't click (Many Surefire's are this way). Then there is twist style, and twist some for Low and more for High.

Generally, I just wanted to get feedback on whether people liked the side-button or tailcap style.

Also, a lot of this comes down to personal preference. I will say that I love my Surefire G2X, which is momentary button, twist for ON, but I like the controls on the Fenix PD22 (Press a little for momentary ON, press all the way to turn it ON, and the side switch cycles through the brightness levels and holding it down for a longer time turns on the strobe, and holding it on even longer turns on SOS flashing.) If it had a dedicated strobe switch, it would be perfect.

CC

[cclaxton]

It's already been stated different lights/features for different uses.

I always have one of the little Streamlight Nano lights on my key chain.
I almost always have a Streamlight MicroStream loose in my pocket. (I don't generally clip things to my pocket. As a general rule I feel it makes you look like a redneck or a tactical Timmy or both.)
I often have a Streamlight ProTac 1L loose in my pocket instead of the MicroStream.
I have a Streamlight ProTac 2L in each vehicle.
I have a Streamlight ProTac HL on my nightstand.
I have a Streamlight TLR-1s on my nightstand G17.

As you can see I like Streamlight. I have owned a good number of SureFires over the years as well but the Streamlights have performed well for me and generally offer a better overall value when you compare features to price. I won't name drop but have asked two well known trainers in classes what lights they trust. Both said SureFire first, Streamlight second, and there is no third.

For an EDC light I am more concerned with general utility than tactical application. I don't need blinding, seizure inducing output. I do like the fact the ProTac series has multiple output levels though because I can light it up in a dark theater to find the keys I dropped. I can hand it to my daughter in the back seat of the car to read by. I can do these things without causing a disturbance in the force. I can use the higher output for other applications, as needed. Durability & reliability are important as is being water resistant. I like tailcaps that are momentary on/off with a constant on feature. Clips ... meh. I do want a nice compact package though. Everyone doesn't need to know what all gear I carry by having a giant saber showing on my pocket or belt.

First, I like your writing style...you are funny.

Second, thanks for the great posting.

Third, I want a "seizure inducing output!!!".....Where do I find one of those!
CC

[Chefdog]

@Volgrad

Would you mind giving a brief rundown of the switch operation on the streamlight lights? Do they always cycle low->high->strobe? Or vice versa? I like the hi, low, strobe, seems like all you need and no extra BS to get in the way. Just curios how the interface functions.
Grassyass seenyour.

[JHC]

I have a couple of the 1000 lumen Fury 3x on the way. One is for someone in the mother of all NPE as an impact tool and what the hell - 1000 lumens to the face before a vicious shin kick is better than not.

[Chuck Whitlock]

@Volgrad

Would you mind giving a brief rundown of the switch operation on the streamlight lights? Do they always cycle low->high->strobe? Or vice versa? I like the hi, low, strobe, seems like all you need and no extra BS to get in the way. Just curios how the interface functions.
Grassyass seenyour.

Not Volgrad, but my ProTac 1L and ProTac 2L cycle high>strobe>low in momentary. I have an older rechargable Strion that has to click to change cycles, which I hate.

[Chefdog]

Not Volgrad, but my ProTac 1L and ProTac 2L cycle high>strobe>low in momentary. I have an older rechargable Strion that has to click to change cycles, which I hate.

Thank you.

[VolGrad]

First, I like your writing style...you are funny.

Second, thanks for the great posting.
Thanks pal.

@Volgrad

Would you mind giving a brief rundown of the switch operation on the streamlight lights? Do they always cycle low->high->strobe? Or vice versa? I like the hi, low, strobe, seems like all you need and no extra BS to get in the way. Just curios how the interface functions.
Grassyass seenyour.
Mine (except one older model) all have the 10 tap programming so I have mine set up right now to be low-high (strobe turned off). I would have to GOOGLE it again for the instructions to program them to see for sure but I think there are a couple of different setups you can choose from.

OK .... I'm back from GOOGLE. Here it is ...
http://www.streamlight.com/en-gb/education/ten-tap_prog.html

[LSP972]

SureFire first, Streamlight second, and there is no third.

For an EDC light I am more concerned with general utility than tactical application. .

Given your latter statement (which I heartily concur with), there IS "a third"… Fenix.

I am in the process of changing over mostly to AA-powered lights. I still EDC a SureFire E1B on days I do a 'full strap-up' (meaning I'm going to be away from the house most of, if not all, day), but lately have been sticking a Fenix LD15 in my pocket on those "local" outings to the grocery store, etc. The switch-on-the-bezel is a bit clumsy, but like you said, I'm not kicking doors with it in hand. I think it is the Fenix LD-10 which is quite similar to the E1B, only with a AA battery. If I needed to replace my E1B today, that's what I would get.

And I was given a 5.11 ATAC A1 single-AA-cell light not long ago, that I really like for an around-the-house light. Its a bit large for pocket carry, and I have zero use for that strobe nonsense; but it certainly seems durable enough and I would not hesitate to stick it in a pocket if necessary. I use it here at home almost daily.

As for features? A good (C4) LED, "high" beam and a "low" beam, plus some sort of regulated circuitry to get the most out of a battery. To me, anything else in a personal pocket light is simply eyewash.

We are so blessed today to have the immense selection that we have to choose from. I well remember those dark days, when a three cell MagLite was considered state of the art in LE lighting. I bought a then-new StreamLight SL-20 when i got out of the academy, but once I became a range rat I had to deal with everybody else's MagLites.

I bought a 6P when they first came out. I still have it, and use it, although I put a P60L LED module in it last year. It has "Laser Products" on the tail cap, if that tells you anything. But I can remember being called a moron for buying an eighty-dollar palm-sized flashlight that used seven dollar batteries (which is what 123's went for; a piece; in the late 80s).

Times change. I just wish I had a nickel for every night-fire target I've scored with that 6P…

.

[Chuck Haggard]

I bought a 6P when they first came out. I still have it, and use it, although I put a P60L LED module in it last year. It has "Laser Products" on the tail cap, if that tells you anything. But I can remember being called a moron for buying an eighty-dollar palm-sized flashlight that used seven dollar batteries (which is what 123's went for; a piece; in the late 80s).


Me too, everybody thought I was nuts, but then I was also nuts for shooting on my own, carrying three speedloaders at that time, carrying a BUG.....


Back then we had SL20s in the cars, which had been cracked over people's heads or dropped enough that they had been repaired multiple times

So one day I am in a very large Victorian style house that was now in a really run down 'hood. We are in the house searching for a murder suspect, get down to the deep dark basement and my SL20 dies on me, hard. The guy I am with???, his light dies too about 20 seconds later.
Now I am in a basement trying to see with the Mini Mag Light from my belt. The air in that basement was sucking the light right out of the air and I couldn't see across the basement clearly, just vaguely make things out.
So I see this pile of stuff in the corner, looks like a pile of junk.

Turns out to be the guy we are looking for, under a pile of old blankets.

The very next day I mail ordered a 6P from Shomer-tec. The guys at work thought the light was cool, until they heard the price, then I was nuts, but they weren't in that basement that day.

[Chefdog]

Volgrad,
Thanks, I wasn't aware that they were programmable. Very interesting.

[Chuck Whitlock]

I bought a 6P when they first came out. I still have it, and use it, although I put a P60L LED module in it last year. It has "Laser Products" on the tail cap, if that tells you anything. But I can remember being called a moron for buying an eighty-dollar palm-sized flashlight that used seven dollar batteries (which is what 123's went for; a piece; in the late 80s).

I acquired a "Laser Products" marked 6P 2nd or 3rd hand for the princely sum of $25. :cool: I was lucky enough to buy a KX4 LED head before the prices skyrocketed on them. I have a Lightsaver tailcap that I have mixed feelings about. The original head and tailcap are stored where they won't get lost.

[JAD]

Now that I've participated in the poll, I can comment.

I want an ultraviolent light.
There is no such thing as shockproof. Ever.
I do not expect things that cost less than a whole lot to be durable, and I do not expect flashlights to cost a whole lot.
I carry two flashlights. One of them sucks, and the other is almost useless (6P or G2 and microlight).
You can clear the Tower at Thunder Ranch with a microlight in your teeth.
My whole keyring fits in my mouth.

[LSP972]

Sotex, I have a 6P body/KL3 head/Z49 clickie tail cap hybrid that I use around the house. It sucks every last bit of juice out of a pair of 123As, then just dies. No worries, of course, because another light isn't far from hand. I have an old tupperware bowl I toss used 123As out of my E1B into when changing them out every couple of months.

The Inova X5 is another light that will drain a 123A battery completely before puking. The KL3 beam has more flood than throw, which is best for indoor general purpose use.

.

[Chuck Whitlock]

Sotex, I have a 6P body/KL3 head/Z49 clickie tail cap hybrid that I use around the house. It sucks every last bit of juice out of a pair of 123As, then just dies. No worries, of course, because another light isn't far from hand. I have an old tupperware bowl I toss used 123As out of my E1B into when changing them out every couple of months.

The Inova X5 is another light that will drain a 123A battery completely before puking. The KL3 beam has more flood than throw, which is best for indoor general purpose use.

.

Not sure of the difference, but I haven't noticed any vampire-like qualities in the KX4 head. :confused:

[LSP972]

Not familiar with the KX4. Is it still in production?

.

[pr1042]

For something I will carry everyday, I want the following...I am primarily influenced by having worked nights (security) for the past few months and wanting to be able to light up the world when I must respond to an alarm.

1) 2 modes: One being at least 500+ lumens and a one around 50 - 100 lumens
2) Clicky on/off switch. I don't care how it switches between modes as long as full power is the first option
3) Pocket clip to wrap some paracord around the smaller lights
4) Priced ~ $60
5) Lightweight enough to throw in pocket and not notice it

Top: Streamlight ProTac HL (lives in my work backpack but only use when I have to put my weapon on)
Middle: Streamlight ProTac 2L (Former EDC but recently retired to backup light status after the purchase of the bottom light)
Bottom: 4Sevens Quark Tactical w/ burst mode (EDC light)

http://i39.tinypic.com/t704e9.jpg

[Chuck Whitlock]

Not familiar with the KX4. Is it still in production?

.

http://www.surefire.com/kx4-led-conversion-head.html

I think I paid ~$40 for it at the time.

[LSP972]

This is what I have, only in black. That KX4 is obviously un "upgraded" version.

http://flashlightreviews.com/reviews/surefire_kl3.htm

.

[fn/form]

I'm no longer LE. My handheld lights related to this thread include JetBeam M1X, Streamlight UltraStinger to ProTac, Surefire from E1B to P3x Tac, LEDLenser T and M series.

I'm a big believer in smooth, med-wide spill for general use.

I prefer neutral or warm color tint, much easier on the eyes whether trail running or searching a vehicle.

My EDC is the ProTac 1AA with its pocket clip. Programmed to High only, ~70 lumens. Reliability, size, beam spill and battery availability. I buy AA lithium in bulk for low temp performance and flatter discharge voltage. I only with it had a better-protected tail cap switch. But it's a trade-off for comfort, size and gloved usability.

Back in LE days the cost wasn't an issue, and it was coming out of my pocket. And I've lost a few $$$ lights. Today I think the Streamlights offer the best bang for the buck without compromising quality. I still put Surefire only on my firearms.

The LEDLenser push-pull models have fantastic, clean, uninterrupted wide angle projection. Awesome during deliberate search without compromising power. Zoom/focus the beam for distance. Great for seeing in fence corners and across the street. Sadly, they have not held up to duty abuse. Failed switches and head connections (intermittent light). I retired all of them from 1st line use. LEDLenser could learn a lot from Surefire's simpler, more robust designs.

For duty 1" barrel lights the ASP holsters with friction retention work well. Roto holster is nice if you're in and out of vehicles a lot or need to carry it on a hip corner.

You can add adhesive diffuser material to the lenses of older, narrow beam lights such as Stinger LEDs. Helps a lot with usable spill without killing the output. I absolutely love the ZebraLight floody headlamps. Mine are single AA models as well.

[Chefdog]

FWIW
After someone mentioned it earlier in this thread I bought a couple Klarus XT2C lights for Christmas, one for me and one for my pops. While I know that it probably wouldn't hold up like a surefire to long term hard use/abuse, it's quite a good performer as a nightstand light. It puts out 580 lumens on HI and 7 days runtime on LO in a package a touch smaller than a G2. Solid construction, an easy UI that allows either HI or strobe from off, and a very clean & even beam that leans towards floody, which I like for in and around the house. If anyone's looking for a light to stash in a car or around the house, it's a solid light and a deal for $55.

[texasaggie2005]

FWIW
After someone mentioned it earlier in this thread I bought a couple Klarus XT2C lights for Christmas, one for me and one for my pops. While I know that it probably wouldn't hold up like a surefire to long term hard use/abuse, it's quite a good performer as a nightstand light. It puts out 580 lumens on HI and 7 days runtime on LO in a package a touch smaller than a G2. Solid construction, an easy UI that allows either HI or strobe from off, and a very clean & even beam that leans towards floody, which I like for in and around the house. If anyone's looking for a light to stash in a car or around the house, it's a solid light and a deal for $55.

I believe it was Soutnarc who first mentioned Klarus in another thread. I picked up a couple also on his recommendation. I'm no operator, but they work fine for my needs.

[Rich]

I carry 2 types of flashlights

For SD I prefer the 1stage lights like the cheap surefire P2X Defender 500 lumen .

I also carry a Back Up flashlight . A 2stage surefire E2 LED Defender. I had car problems and had to walk home at night and it was over 10Miles. That 2nd low lumen stage got me home.

And with all the new KYDEX Light Holsters and compact lights like the TLR-3 and APL I think one should mount a light to there pistol as well.


I like lights from Surefire and Elzetta

Elzetta maybe the best single stage SD light!

Also can come 1 stage strobe for those who like strobe.


I don't care for Fenix lights or lights like them for SD use

[Rich]

Sotex, I have a 6P body/KL3 head/Z49 clickie tail cap hybrid that I use around the house. It sucks every last bit of juice out of a pair of 123As, then just dies. No worries, of course, because another light isn't far from hand. I have an old tupperware bowl I toss used 123As out of my E1B into when changing them out every couple of months.

The Inova X5 is another light that will drain a 123A battery completely before puking. The KL3 beam has more flood than throw, which is best for indoor general purpose use.

.

I carry a Surefire P2X defender and a Gen 2 E2 Defender Led 5lumen /120lumen

When the batts are dead I put them in my INOVA 5X !

[justintime]

I want it to be durable and reliable, have a lanyard - that can break away, and be able to fit it in my pocket. I do like more lumens since I use my flashlight a lot to look at things pretty far away but that is not a necessity

[cclaxton]

Don't forget to vote in the other flashlight poll at: http://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?10001-Flashlight-Poll-So-many-to-choose-from-can-t-list-them-all-but-let-s-try&highlight=flashlights
Thanks for voting
Cody