On it's face, cleaning a lubing a revolver is quite simple-clean the barrel, cylinder chambers, and remove GSR grunge from the inner frame window and forcing cone area, land follow up by lightly applying a thin film of lube/anti-corrosive, and pretty much call things good. Frankly, that protocol for the most part works quite well, and is all that's needed.
But (and this being p-f, there's of course always a "but"), sometimes/periodically/situationally you may need to go a bit deeper. Ruger has an excellent series of videos on their website that nicely go above and beyond in talking users through things,
https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162880411&cat=3769277
https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162879867&cat=3769277
https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162880653&cat=3769277
https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=162881567&cat=3769277
I found that this series provides some very useful and specific information-their endorsement of TW25B and showing the specific lubrication points and amounts to be applied was much appreciated.
Field-stripping a Ruger double-action revolver (in my case, a Security Six and GP100) isn't inordinately difficult, but in addition to the videos, I recommend having on hand some print resources showing component orientations. This is especially recommended if you do a detailed disassembly of the trigger groups and cylinder groups.
Rugers are exceptionally well-built and easy to maintain, and logical in their disassemblies and reassemblies. Regarding trigger groups, I've only felt it necessary to disassemble to facilitate removing and replacing trigger return springs. Regarding cylinders, I routinely (usually annually, or after protracted heavy use, particularly if there's any cylinder rotational sluggishness or binding) do a detailed disassembly up to the point of the ejector star-removing it requires specialized tools, and probably really isn't necessary, so that's as far as I go.
For trigger groups, my preference is to remove the group assembly, and spray with Dri-Slide, a molybdenum disulfate dry film lubricant suspended in a liquid carrier solution, which after application, drys/evaporates, leaving a film of dry lube on the components. This has the advantage of providing lubrication, but without the presence of a liquid attractant which can attract and hold GSR. I've used Dri-Slide on my revolver actions since the late 1980s/early 1990s and been very pleased with it; it comes both as an aerosol spray and as a drop-applied liquid.
Ruger cylinders feature two ball bearings in a race that facilitate cylinder rotation and retention on the crane. Over use, GSR grunge can accumulate inside the cylinder crane hole, and in the ball bearing race. One technique for eliminating this is simply to hose the areas down with brake cleaner or similar, then blow out the areas with compressed or canned air. Alternatively, you can disassemble the cylinder, which is what I prefer, because I think that the accumulated grunge is more effectively accessed and removed by hand. Ruger also recommends a light application of TW25B to the crane axle, which is only accomplished via disassembly.
The disassembly isn't particularly difficult or tricky, but there are some smaller components that you need to keep track of carefully-particularly a Crane Latch Plunger and spring, which tend to launch out of their housing in the crane during disassembly, and the Cylinder Retaining Balls, which can fall out of their recesses in the crane, and the Front Latch Pivot pin. The Latch requires a specific orientation on installation.
With the partial cylinder disassembly, the major cylinder parts and the inner cylinder areas (especially the ball race) can be accessed for removal of accumulated grunge.
The overall deep clean/lubrication process isn't particularly difficult or time consuming, but can pay some nice operational dividends. Whenever I perform it, I'm reminded of the genius of William Ruger and his staff in the revolver's design and manufacture-and I'm concurrently appreciative of the late Chris Peters' skill and artistry in the systemic (and aesthetic) improvements that he lavished on my GP100.
Best, Jon