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Thread: Trigger swap for M&P 9 Shield?

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by UNK View Post
    How would they know? If you send it in for warranty work you put the stock parts back in.
    Exactly

  2. #12
    Everyone should do what they are most comfortable with, but in my case I know I have never needed to send a modern striker fired gun back for any kind of warranty work, IMO they are simple enough to just work. Especially in the case of the Shield, they sold a bazillion of them and if there were many/any inherit flaws that required warranty work we would know by now.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by LowAndLeft View Post
    I called them up myself and was told the Plus will work in my 1.0 but they don't sell triggers separately and that putting in an Apex or other aftermarket voids the warranty. Ugh.
    In case I did not make myself clear, there is a guy on ebay who is a ffl who strips down and parts out pistols. The shield in my previous post has a oem shield plus trigger and trigger bar assembly from him. All original parts were retained and could be reinstalled in minutes...I haven't mentioned his name because he is not a site sponsor but he is easy to find or PM me, when the Plus first came out , I bought on of the first trigger assemblies he peddled for $85 shipped IRC, never regretted it compared to apex...if you have the shield and want to make it more shootable that helps a bunch. They are still too slim in the grip IMO and slippery (where the stippling really helps) and for my use case the oem thumb safety was substandard hence the mention from the much improved one sold by a member here.
    Skinner Precision LLC official Account
    07 Manufacturer specializing in Competition Rifles

  4. #14
    Hey all, thanks for the great input thus far! In the meantime, I searched "M&P trigger remedies/mods/upgrades, etc" and saw a couple videos on smoothing out the trigger.

    I didn't agree with all of them but I combined a few tips into what I thought was a mild approach. I marked the edge of the trigger bar with a sharpie (sort of like using machinists' blue dye) and cycling the trigger a few times to reveal contact points. I then used small strips of 600, 1500, and 2500 silicone carbide paper on a tip of a flathead screwdriver to polish off the roughness. I didn't go so far as to change any angles or the shape; I even left some of the small pits from mfr. stamping the part.

    I fired the Shield yesterday and it's awesome. It's much smoother--I'm really surprised. The pull weight feels the same but there's no grittiness. This should suffice until I find another trigger.

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