Here is a video that really helped me out:
After watching the video, I am amazed at all the forethought it took in designing this revolver. It's like putting together a puzzle.
I have long been a believer in detail stripping all Ruger revolvers - ESPECIALLY STAINLESS ONES - and checking for small burrs or toolmarks that can cause binding or grating, in addition to cleaning out any "factory" crud and re-lubricating everything with nice, clean lube. The crazy little things you can find in a new handgun are almost endless. A couple of spare hours and little more than a can of Gun Scrubber, your oil and/or grease of choice, plenty of rags or patches, and sparing, judicious use of a small, very fine hard Arkansas stone (and maybe a set of Swiss needle files) can do wonders on a GP-100 or SP101.
gn
"On the internet, nobody knows if you are a dog... or even a cat."
Its been a mix of American Eagle 357 and Winchester white box. 38s.
I also brushed out from under the star, and ran a brush through the charge holes (is that the term for where the bullets go?) every couple drills while my buddies loaded mags.
Thank you all for the help, I'll be taking it all the way to the frame soon to see if I can't figure it out this time.
https://www.kevinsworkbench.com/sp101trigger/
I use this guide, everything transfers over to the GP100.
You'll find where shims are mentioned, that's another rabbit hole to go down. I do have one GP that could benefit from shimming. I plan on doing that this fall.
gn
"On the internet, nobody knows if you are a dog... or even a cat."
I'm more of a picture book guy but IBOK is here Queue PDF - Iowegan’s Book Of Knowledge For The Ruger Gp-100 Revolver [5143m6vmygnj] (idoc.pub)
If that don't work I can probably email a PDF.