Glock 26 trigger is getting harder to press

[dnittler]

Google "Glock 25 cent trigger job", if you're not already familiar with the procedure.

Until you've tried that, I wouldn't be in a huge rush to replace anything other than springs.

Is the connector considered one of the springs?

[JV_]

Is the connector considered one of the springs?

No. The connector isn't replaced at regular intervals - like springs.

[JConn]

I wouldn't replace the connector. The only time I have is because I have had a couple start flaking on me. This was when I was using a ny1 spring.

[Chris Rhines]

I *strongly* recommend against polishing anything in a Glock, save maybe for the firing pin safety. I've never seen polishing improve a Glock trigger pull. I have seen it cause reliability problems.

You can replace the trigger spring with a heavier one from Glockmeister, which will cut the total trigger pull down by about 0.75#. You can also replace the striker spring with a lighter one, which will reduce the second stage only by about the same amount, and will probably also give you some much-needed practice in clearing failure-to-fire malfunctions. You generally can't use both springs at the same time, as the trigger will not reset far enough to engage the trigger safety - not cool.

Finally, you can replace the factory connector with a Glock 'minus' connector or a Lone Wolf 3.5# connector. Either of these will lighten the entire trigger pull, but will also make the trigger release a little longer. I actually prefer this, so I use Glock 'minus' connectors in all my guns.

[Force Majeure]

Allright, I detail stripped and painstakingly cleaned the frame what few parts a Glock has in it. It was really dirty: lots of sand, lint, and unburned powder. Like JV had predicted, it seems that the main culprit was lint and gunk between the trigger bar and frame. I ended up carefully washing a few of the plastic parts with some soap and hot water to dislodge the fuzz, wiped all the metal parts down with an oiled cloth, slapped it back together, and lubed it with six-drops where indicated in the Glock manual.

The trigger pull is noticeably better, but it is still harder than I would prefer, and it's a heavier pull than my new 3rd gen Glock 19.

Questions:
- If I'm going to replace the trigger spring, should I also replace the factory connector while I'm at it?
- Are there any other parts that stand out as an obvious thing to order and replace this go-round?

Crap in the slide like gunk under the firing pin block will also cause a bad trigger pull.

[dnittler]

Crap in the slide like gunk under the firing pin block will also cause a bad trigger pull.

I will work on that next, then.

I *strongly* recommend against polishing anything in a Glock, save maybe for the firing pin safety. I've never seen polishing improve a Glock trigger pull. I have seen it cause reliability problems.

** SNIP **

Either of these will lighten the entire trigger pull.

I will heed your warning re: polishing – this is my primary carry gun, and I don't want to leave anything up to chance.

I'm pretty happy with the stock Glock 5.5 trigger pull, and want my old 26 to get back there. If the new trigger spring and slide cleaning don't do the trick, I will try a minus connector.

[ST911]

This is a defensive gun, so it bears repeating... Take it to someone credentialed to do what needs to be done, or with demonstrated ability to do what needs to be done. Despite internet lore to the contrary, the guns are not legos and subtleties exist affecting parts variables and interaction that affect overall reliability.

Don't do the .25 trigger job. Don't replace the internals with non-OEM components. A lack of knowledge and stacking tolerances create paperweights. There's a high probability that you'll be back here with more troubleshooting.

If the gun has been completely cleaned, found to be GTG, and still has a trigger that you don't care for, you could obtain OEM components and swap them. Many times, just a trigger bar or connector swap will appreciably change the feel of a given combination.

I have fixed more guns "improved" by owners more than any other repair task. There's a reason for that.

[Copabeat]

First be sure the connector is properly seated and not even slightly bent. (this happen a lot when it is removed incorrectly: never pry it out) Next check the trigger draw bar make sure that this is not bent either. If you have shot the gun for sometime like this, it is possibly you have some microscopic grooves that are now rubbing/binding. Think of a dirty non-lubed gas as acting like sand paper against metal rubbing metal. It is also possible that the striker cups could be misaligned and rubbing inside the slide or even the firing pin sleeve cracked or broken. (Do not remove the sleeve unless you have the proper tools and training)

P.S. stay away from the so called 25 cent trigger job, or you'll get what you pay for.

[VolGrad]

Leave the connector. Replace all the springs. Clean. Lube. Should be good to go.

Where in the South are you? If anywhere around Athens, GA I can help you out if you like.

[JBP55]

If you are in the Baton Rouge, La. area I will check it out for you.