Learning to Take Care of Revolvers

[jh9]

Mimmed parts don't tolerate "grinding".

I believe that's a common description of the "sintered metal" parts Colt used in the Mk3 and MkV actions. I've never cut one of them myself and can't say.

AFAIK S&W's MIM parts are through-hardened. I've never had an issue removing metal. Frank Glenn mentioned something noteworthy about sparks they throw when being cut/grinded, but it's been awhile now and I can't recall with any certainty. I think he was commenting on the lack of them. I assume that means it's probably some stainless alloy and the "case hardening" is just cosmetic. I don't think I've ever seen a case hardened MIM trigger or hammer rust. I have certainly seen the forged and case hardened triggers and hammers rust.

[Rex G]

Page Three, already, nobody has yet mentioned screwdrivers? Properly-configured screwdrivers are important! Click on the Brownells link, near the top of this page, and buy the correct screwdrivers.

[jh9]

Page Three, already, nobody has yet mentioned screwdrivers? Properly-configured screwdrivers are important! Click on the Brownells link, near the top of this page, and buy the correct screwdrivers.

For completely disassembling the modern (pre-lock, post-MIM) guns the tools needed can be simplified to a 150-3 bit, the rebound slide tool (really nice to have), the extractor rod tool, a 1/8" hex key, and a bic pen.

The lone 150-3 bit from brownells. That will fit the thumbpiece nut well enough, the 3 sideplate screws, the strain screw and the rear sight screw. Of course if price is no object the S&W bit set they sell is a good thing to have.

Unfortunately it looks like the rebound slide bit is discontinued. The dedicated tool is a bit overkill for $25 but I'd rather have it than not. Helpful for removing the rebound. A bic pen is sized about right to reinstall it, though I have a similarly shaped plastic punch that's been reshaped to do the same job so I don't keep destroying pens.

A 1/8" hex key (aligned to the flat sides) is sized perfectly to compress the hand torsion spring (with no room to slip by) in the MIM trigger for installing and removing the hand from the trigger.

Brownells has their own tool but I've always used the Power Custom tool for removing and reinstalling the extractor rod. I'm unaware of a specific torque value but eventually you get it dialed in with the Mk 1 Elbow such that loctite is unnecessary.

It's been awhile since I needed to remove the bolt, or the sear from the MIM hammer. I don't remember what I used to compress the bolt spring. I thought the next time I needed to remove a MIM sear I was just going to thin/sharpen a 120-1 bit to fit that tiny recess and get under that tiny spring. If you have spare springs you can just pull the sear out and eat the cost of the spring. They're sometimes out of stock (like now, only the pre-mim bolt/sear spring is available at Brownells or Midway right now) so it's helpful to already have spares on hand. If you do then the cost of a $4 spring is a small price to pay for the frustration of dealing with something so fiddly and tiny. They're a massive pain to remove without destroying, but relatively painless to install.

[Stephanie B]

Except when they don't. I think the engineering change from right hand threads to left hand was late 50's or early 60's but early dash models or pre-model # will go the opposite way.

According to Wikipedia, the 10-2/3 and 19-1 changed the threads.

[Malamute]

For completely disassembling the modern (pre-lock, post-MIM) guns the tools needed can be simplified to a 150-3 bit, the rebound slide tool (really nice to have), the extractor rod tool, a 1/8" hex key, and a bic pen.

The lone 150-3 bit from brownells. That will fit the thumbpiece nut well enough, the 3 sideplate screws, the strain screw and the rear sight screw. Of course if price is no object the S&W bit set they sell is a good thing to have.

Unfortunately it looks like the rebound slide bit is discontinued. The dedicated tool is a bit overkill for $25 but I'd rather have it than not. Helpful for removing the rebound. A bic pen is sized about right to reinstall it, though I have a similarly shaped plastic punch that's been reshaped to do the same job so I don't keep destroying pens.

A 1/8" hex key (aligned to the flat sides) is sized perfectly to compress the hand torsion spring (with no room to slip by) in the MIM trigger for installing and removing the hand from the trigger.

Brownells has their own tool but I've always used the Power Custom tool for removing and reinstalling the extractor rod. I'm unaware of a specific torque value but eventually you get it dialed in with the Mk 1 Elbow such that loctite is unnecessary.

It's been awhile since I needed to remove the bolt, or the sear from the MIM hammer. I don't remember what I used to compress the bolt spring. I thought the next time I needed to remove a MIM sear I was just going to thin/sharpen a 120-1 bit to fit that tiny recess and get under that tiny spring. If you have spare springs you can just pull the sear out and eat the cost of the spring. They're sometimes out of stock (like now, only the pre-mim bolt/sear spring is available at Brownells or Midway right now) so it's helpful to already have spares on hand. If you do then the cost of a $4 spring is a small price to pay for the frustration of dealing with something so fiddly and tiny. They're a massive pain to remove without destroying, but relatively painless to install.

All good comments, though Ill add some.

The same size screwdriver tip that fits the sideplate screws can also be used horizontally to compress the rebound slide spring into the slide, install lower half over stud, then turned vertically to compress the spring enough to push down over the stud the rest of the way. One could use a common screwdriver and grind the slot in the tip and heat and bend to make the dogleg shape like the commercial rebound slide tool, but its pretty simple to use a normal screwdriver carefully as described, so Ive not made one.

Ive used the basic Chapman screwdriver set, theres most of the sizes I need for most guns with some narrowing for a couple things. Spare tips are available easily directly from Chapman. Dad had a Brownells set, but few of the tips he had fit anything I've tried them on. Theres different tip sets I believe, but as well as the Chapman set has worked for 40 years for me I havent pursued the brownells spare tip sets.

A couple 38 spl cases can be flattened and used as non marring vise pads on an extractor rod to loosen or snug them. Cases should be in the chambers when doing this. Snug rod in bench vise with flattened cases, use cylinder with cases on chambers to turn on or off the rod. Ive also used hard thick leather, like sole leather as vise pads to snug extractor rods, but the brass cases work better.

Yes, the same screwdriver that fits the sideplate screws fits the sight adjustment screws. After using the chapman bits for decades, the light went on...the old S&W sight adjustment screwdriver they provided with new guns fits the sideplate screws and works to install the rebound slide...almost like they planned that. No, its not perfect, and the handle is small, but that tool alone can keep the gun operational (snug or remove sideplate screws) and do basic chores.

Back before the little screwdrivers were collectible I ground the tip of one to use on the rear sight windage nut when I damaged the sight blade on my 29.

[BradC]

YouTube’s your best friend)) There are tons of detailed tutorials out there for just about every model. And of course forums like this. I think most folks here are happy to help out a newbie