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Thread: Vetting Ruger GP100s for Carry/Defense Use

  1. #71
    This may be heresy, but I have stopped putting lube on anything that goes inside the cylinder on my Match Champion. It just seems to attract and hold gunk.

    I blasted some Gun Scrubber into the front of the cylinder and followed it with compressed air. Quite a bit of yuck came out and the cylinder went from dragging to spinning freely.

    Likewise, I push the ejector rod in and completely dry off the portion of the rod inside the cylinder. I see no reason for additional lubrication on something that I'm going to hand-force anyway. It just seems like all the lube will do is trap little bits that won't let me close the cylinder.

    If I'm way off base or if there's a better way, please call me out on it. The revolver runs a lot better for me since I started doing this.

  2. #72
    Quote Originally Posted by Edster View Post
    This may be heresy, but I have stopped putting lube on anything that goes inside the cylinder on my Match Champion. It just seems to attract and hold gunk.

    I blasted some Gun Scrubber into the front of the cylinder and followed it with compressed air. Quite a bit of yuck came out and the cylinder went from dragging to spinning freely.

    Likewise, I push the ejector rod in and completely dry off the portion of the rod inside the cylinder. I see no reason for additional lubrication on something that I'm going to hand-force anyway. It just seems like all the lube will do is trap little bits that won't let me close the cylinder.

    If I'm way off base or if there's a better way, please call me out on it. The revolver runs a lot better for me since I started doing this.
    GP100's take very little oil, I usually put a drop on my fingers and just rub the oil on.

    I do take Gp's down all the way, so don't take the cylinder apart without the special tool for that job.

  3. #73
    Quote Originally Posted by Flamingo View Post
    This bit will make taking the cylinder apart easier.
    I just ordered this tool. Not sure if the gunsmith here has one (if not that makes me kind of leery).

    What's strange is that the cylinder is easy to open and close right now. Maybe fouling/debris got moved and freed things up temporarily?

  4. #74
    Quote Originally Posted by SwampDweller View Post
    I just ordered this tool. Not sure if the gunsmith here has one (if not that makes me kind of leery).

    What's strange is that the cylinder is easy to open and close right now. Maybe fouling/debris got moved and freed things up temporarily?
    Remember that screw turns in the opposite direction.

  5. #75
    For disassembly, isn't there supposed to be a pin to help me get out the mainspring? It's not in the box.

  6. #76
    It should be in the stocks. If not a paper clip works great.

  7. #77
    Quote Originally Posted by SwampDweller View Post
    For disassembly, isn't there supposed to be a pin to help me get out the mainspring? It's not in the box.
    Ruger stopped putting those pins in with GP's couple years ago, I just use a small nail.

  8. #78
    Quote Originally Posted by Flamingo View Post
    It should be in the stocks. If not a paper clip works great.
    Using that. I’m having a hell of a time getting the hammer strut/mainspring back in. Its like I can’t get it in far enough to place it on the little holder on the bottom.

  9. #79
    I think its that the paper clip bent under the spring pressure to where it no longer pushes the little hook thing down far enough to fit under the hammer. I'm getting extremely frustrated and I don't understand why Ruger wouldn't include a proper takedown pin that is necessary to strip the revolver.

  10. #80
    Here is how I take my GP100 mainspring off.

    MAKE SURE IT'S UNLOADED
    Cock the hammer
    Insert the paperclip

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    Lower the Hammer and the mainspring relaxes

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    It will require some fiddling but the mainspring and strut will come out of the bottom.

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    I can walk you through it via FaceTime or Signal if you would like.

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