New revolvers at SHOT/Lipsey's release

[WDR]

I left work a bit early today, and stopped in at one of the shops I had put feelers out to to find a UC for me... and they just happened to have a 442 that just came in earlier today. It wasn't even on their books yet. As soon as I put my hands on it, I knew I'd be buying it. Front sight appears bright when I checked quickly. I put a deposit down to hold it until they get it in their book, then I'll return to finish the deal, later tonight or possibly tomorrow. I'll for sure be shooting it tomorrow after work.

I'm stoked to finally get one of these. I'll probably be hunting for a .32 version soon.

[jeep45238]

Only downside/update I have so far - my FFL is closing doors, and I need to find a new dealer to get a .32 for me

[revchuck38]

My 442 UC came in today. I took it to the range, ran a dry patch through the bore and chambers, and started to make some empty brass. Unfortunately, it didn't last long. The gun has a glitch in the trigger; shooting right-handed, both supported and unsupported, the trigger will come back far enough to drop the cylinder stop and stop dead right there. Then it requires a God-awful yank to pull it past that point. I contacted Jason @JEC and he told me another shooter had had the same problem and that putting some lube on the titanium pins cured it. I tried that and no joy, so I tried it again - spraying the internals with Break-Free and blowing it out with canned air - and it was better but still not right.

I resigned myself to a bunch of dry fire to try to wear the parts in. My right hand got tired so I switched to my left...and no glitch. I switched back and forth a few times and that remained consistent. I played with finger placement on the trigger with my right trigger finger and the glitch lessened as finger position moved from past the joint, to the joint, and then to the pad.

Notice I wrote, "...from past the joint?" I'm 6'1" with average-size hands for my height and that's where my trigger finger naturally ended up. My other two J frames have Hogue Monogrips on them and those grips have more material behind the backstrap. With them, my trigger finger naturally hits the trigger at the joint. Looks like I'm going to have to get Hogues for the 442. Or maybe dig out those Taurus boot grips?

There's obviously still something going on with the gun, but I'm going to try to swap grips and dry-fire my way out of it before sending it back to S&W.

[Crow Hunter]

My 442 UC came in today. I took it to the range, ran a dry patch through the bore and chambers, and started to make some empty brass. Unfortunately, it didn't last long. The gun has a glitch in the trigger; shooting right-handed, both supported and unsupported, the trigger will come back far enough to drop the cylinder stop and stop dead right there. Then it requires a God-awful yank to pull it past that point. I contacted Jason @JEC and he told me another shooter had had the same problem and that putting some lube on the titanium pins cured it. I tried that and no joy, so I tried it again - spraying the internals with Break-Free and blowing it out with canned air - and it was better but still not right.

I resigned myself to a bunch of dry fire to try to wear the parts in. My right hand got tired so I switched to my left...and no glitch. I switched back and forth a few times and that remained consistent. I played with finger placement on the trigger with my right trigger finger and the glitch lessened as finger position moved from past the joint, to the joint, and then to the pad.

Notice I wrote, "...from past the joint?" I'm 6'1" with average-size hands for my height and that's where my trigger finger naturally ended up. My other two J frames have Hogue Monogrips on them and those grips have more material behind the backstrap. With them, my trigger finger naturally hits the trigger at the joint. Looks like I'm going to have to get Hogues for the 442. Or maybe dig out those Taurus boot grips?

There's obviously still something going on with the gun, but I'm going to try to swap grips and dry-fire my way out of it before sending it back to S&W.

I have the same problem with a Sig P226 Blackwater that belongs to my brother. It is like there is something behind the trigger right before it gets to the end of the stroke and the hammer falls unless I move my hand way around to the magazine release side of the grips. First time I did that I thought there was a trigger over travel stop that I was trying to compress.

I think it is the thin grip and a short reach trigger keeps me from getting the proper stroke for my hand/finger combination and I run out of travel on my finger. I would change them out to test my assumption but it isn't my gun and he doesn't have a problem with it.

[WDR]

I might have a J-frame problem...





And a speed loader/speed strip problem.

25 rounds each of 130gr Ranger and 135gr +P Gold Dot, ten rounds of 125gr +P Gold Dot, and 50rounds of FGMM should constitute a good break in range trip. I'll take another box of the wadcutters along, and probably put some through the Model 60. The Comp I's clear the grips just fine, though they may be a litter tighter than with the CT 405's. Grips feel awesome, and fill the hand without being huge. Trigger on this one isn't quite as light as my 442 Pro with the little bit of cleaning up I've done inside the action, and a Wilson spring kit, but its really close, and quite smooth right out of the box. I'll put some live and dry fire through it before I consider replacing any springs or doing any cleaning up of the guts. Pretty impressed. Front sight seems to glow just fine... and the green ring/dot really does "pop" out in my vision. The rear sight does want to snag the seam in my Desantis pocket holster, but I think the gun will work just fine in the old Galco "summer special" type holster I have used with my other snub forever, no snagging of the sights from that one. I'm sure I'll blend the corner of the cylinder latch, like I've done on the Pro... after I've shot it a bit. Meanwhile, I'll put a Tough Strip on my thumb knuckle before shooting.

[WDR]

There's obviously still something going on with the gun, but I'm going to try to swap grips and dry-fire my way out of it before sending it back to S&W.

Hopefully it cleans up for you without having to send it back. Keep us updated. Mine felt a little "dry" lube wise, straight from the box. Not gritty, and no hitches, but like it could use some lube. I put 3 or 4 drops of oil in the usual spots, and that seemed to help a bit.

[rainman]

Would anyone care to recommend a source for quality .32 cal cleaning supplies (brush/jag/rod/patches)?

I was surprised that my 432UC didn't come with the usual factory aluminum rod/brush, but it's probably been 30 years since I purchased a 'new' Smith, and I guess they stopped including that at some point.


-Rainman

[CCT125US]

Would anyone care to recommend a source for quality .32 cal cleaning supplies (brush/jag/rod/patches)?

I was surprised that my 432UC didn't come with the usual factory aluminum rod/brush, but it's probably been 30 years since I purchased a 'new' Smith, and I guess they stopped including that at some point.


-Rainman

Well used 9mm snake works fine.

[WDR]

Hopefully it cleans up for you without having to send it back. Keep us updated. Mine felt a little "dry" lube wise, straight from the box. Not gritty, and no hitches, but like it could use some lube. I put 3 or 4 drops of oil in the usual spots, and that seemed to help a bit.

@revchuck38 --Well, I spoke too soon. Mine also seemed to have a hard hitch right at the end of the pull for the first few rounds I fired today. The good news is that leaving the first 5 rounds worth of brass in the gun, and dryfiring it about 25 times seemed to lessen and maybe get rid of the hitch. I thought I was really anticipating and flinching at first, trying to slow fire for accuracy, but it was a definite wall right at the end of the pull that was goofing me up. I was able to keep shooting the gun after the dryfire. I think it got better as the round count climbed. I have some snap caps coming, so I don't have to use fired brass anymore.

I put 75 rounds of FGMM, 15 rounds of Ranger, 10 rounds of 135 +P Gold Dot, and 10 rounds of 125gr +P Gold Dot through it today. The high horn grips do help make those +P loads less punishing, but the Gold Dots of either flavor were still a handful. Wadcutters were a lot more comfortable to shoot (duh). I can still see a .32 version in my future.

Would anyone care to recommend a source for quality .32 cal cleaning supplies (brush/jag/rod/patches)?

I was surprised that my 432UC didn't come with the usual factory aluminum rod/brush, but it's probably been 30 years since I purchased a 'new' Smith, and I guess they stopped including that at some point.


-Rainman

They have not included the tools with their revolvers in a long time...

Pro-Shot Products does make .32 jags/brushes/mops etc. I wouldn't be surprised if Amazon carries them, as they have most of the Pro-Shot line available. I use a .22 caliber rod for all my handguns, no matter what caliber. The jags/brushes etc all fit their .22 rods.

ETA: It looks like Amazon does carry them, but they are quite expensive at $10/each shipped for Prime. https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Shot-32-C...XB6?th=1&psc=1

You should be able to find them for a lot less from other retailers... but shipping might make it a wash.

ETA#2: A .30 rifle jag works well enough for .32 pistols IME ... you may have to play with patch size.

[revchuck38]

@WDR - My hitch is at the very beginning of the trigger pull, not the end.