So much for revolver reliability...

[1911Nut]

Could I ask what the issues were youve had with revolvers, the L and Ns in specific as you mentioned?

Im always interested in learning more about them, and perhaps what to be aware of.

Cracked and dented forcing cones

Out of time

Side plates that were so poorly machined that there were significant gaps between the plates and the frame

Barrel installed out of time so the front sight was significantly leaning towards the 1 o'clock position (This was an "L" frame that was returned to S&W. It was returned untouched with a note stating that it was within "acceptable" specification)

Significant gaps between the frame and cylinder crane

Pinged/deformed hammer noses

Cylinder would not turn reliably (required replacement of sear and sear spring)

Cylinder would not reliably lock into place (required replacement of extractor star)

Variable gap between face of cylinder and forcing cone - differences of up to .005" observed, and cylinder would hang up at "high" spot

That's what I recall. I'm certain I missed a few things. These issues occurred to guns over a period spanning from 1973 to 2009

In addition to the aforementioned "L" frame issue, I returned two separate "N" frame revolvers to S&W for different issues. Neither issue was resolved

I took two different troublesome "N" frame revolvers to Frank Glenn, an outstanding gunsmith who knows a thing or two about S&W revolvers. After examination, he refused to work on either revolver and suggested I return them to S&W

In all cases the revolvers mentioned were either new or were nearly new when the issues were experienced

YMMV

[D-der]

See post 802 in our LCR thread. Don't know about you, but I didn't read the owners manual and found out the hard way that the .22 LCR needs a couple drops of oil or it will lock up. This solved the only issue I've had with an LCR.

Thanks much, I'd seen that post when you put it up, read that complete thread before buying my 38 and referred back here and there. The tiny cylinder release screw on the 38 kept backing out, a minuscule fraction of a drop of blue seems to have cured that issue, I had oiled the 22 after the first couple hundred rds or so, the forcing cone, cylinder, under the star etc. have been brushed any time it's been shot, after reading your reminder today I gave it a couple more drops of FP10 and worked the action a bit, might have helped some but maybe wishful thinking, crane screw's tight, I'll continue to move it a little and lay it one way than another to let it migrate overnight (likely more wishful thinking). Ruger sent me an RMA but, I'd love to tell them problem solved.

[revchuck38]

Oh man, this thing is a lot easier:

https://www.brownells.com/tools-clea...d-tool-for-sw/

For torquing the rod, that is. I agree on old wheelies over new, as a general rule, and I absolutely agree that an ounce of prevention like checking all the screws, the rod, etc., is worth kilos of wheelie cure.

I've got two of those, one for J frames and one for everything else.

[Dave T]

Cracked and dented forcing cones

Out of time

Side plates that were so poorly machined that there were significant gaps between the plates and the frame

Barrel installed out of time so the front sight was significantly leaning towards the 1 o'clock position (This was an "L" frame that was returned to S&W. It was returned untouched with a note stating that it was within "acceptable" specification)

Significant gaps between the frame and cylinder crane

Pinged/deformed hammer noses

Cylinder would not turn reliably (required replacement of sear and sear spring)

Cylinder would not reliably lock into place (required replacement of extractor star)

Variable gap between face of cylinder and forcing cone - differences of up to .005" observed, and cylinder would hang up at "high" spot

That's what I recall. I'm certain I missed a few things. These issues occurred to guns over a period spanning from 1973 to 2009

In addition to the aforementioned "L" frame issue, I returned two separate "N" frame revolvers to S&W for different issues. Neither issue was resolved

I took two different troublesome "N" frame revolvers to Frank Glenn, an outstanding gunsmith who knows a thing or two about S&W revolvers. After examination, he refused to work on either revolver and suggested I return them to S&W

In all cases the revolvers mentioned were either new or were nearly new when the issues were experienced

YMMV

Virtually every problem or condition you mentioned is because of the current piss poor quality control by S&W. That hardly constitutes reasons to condemn L-frames and N-frames outright. Buy a pre-lock L or N and take it to Frank. Bet he'll work on those for you...and you'll like the result.

Dave

[revchuck38]

@1911Nut - Either you've had extraordinarily bad luck or I've had extraordinarily good luck. I've got J, K, L, and N frames that I've bought both new and used, and never had any of the problems you listed. My 681-2 and 28-2 are former cop guns, and the 28 was pretty beat when I got it. My 642-2 is a former cop gun too. They all run fine and have been completely reliable.

Then again, my early 80s production Colt Gubmint Model has been flawless too, so maybe it is luck. Though my early 80s production Combat Commander makes up for it...

[revchuck38]

@1911Nut - Either you've had extraordinarily bad luck or I've had extraordinarily good luck. I've got J, K, L, and N frames that I've bought both new and used, and never had any of the problems you listed. My 681-2 and 28-2 are former cop guns, and the 28 was pretty beat when I got it. My 642-2 is a former cop gun too. They all run fine and have been completely reliable.

Then again, my early 80s production Colt Gubmint Model has been flawless too, so maybe it is luck. Though my early 80s production Combat Commander makes up for it...

[Tarrrnation!]

Sorry you have bad luck lately. I have felt the same about other firearms at times as well when I’ve had issues. Most recently I took my Mossberg 590 from under my side of the bed to do the twice yearly battery replacement on the light I have on it. I also take the time to cycle the ammo out of it and, check the function and lightly lubricate it each time I do this. When I cycled the ammo out, I found the magazine tube spring had stuck compressed and would not push any fresh rounds into the chamber! This was a 590A1 I had purchased new a couple years ago and fully tested with 100s of rounds, cleaned and always stored one or two rounds short of a full tube of ammo.

One thing I very much appreciate about revolvers being used for defense is they stand up so well to neglect. No magazine springs, no recoil springs to replace. I really like that can stay in ready condition for many years and be good to go when called upon.

I hope you get your 642 repaired satisfactorily and sounds like you may have discovered the issue with the LCR.

Tar

[1911Nut]

Virtually every problem or condition you mentioned is because of the current piss poor quality control by S&W. That hardly constitutes reasons to condemn L-frames and N-frames outright. Buy a pre-lock L or N and take it to Frank. Bet he'll work on those for you...and you'll like the result.

Dave

Dave:

The problems I described go back to 1973, as I stated, and occurred at various times through the 70's 80's, and 90's. So its hard for me to associate the problems I experienced in the 70's, 80's, and 90's with current poor quality control by S&W.

Every single revolver I had problems was a pre-lock model except for the mentioned L frame.

I didn't intend to sound as though I was condemning L and N frame S&W revolvers . . . I simply and honestly shared my experiences. As a matter of fact, I owned a S&W Model 29-2 back in the mid 70's that was an excellent, trouble free gun that I used for several years in IHMSA competition and an early Model 629 pre-lock Mountain Gun that I used as a field carry revolver for 20+ years with no issues whatsoever.

There is no reason for me to believe that Frank would NOT work on a revolver I took to him, and I have, in fact owned two revolvers and one auto pistol that Frank worked on and I could not have been happier with the results. However, many years ago, he advised me that two of them I had taken to him would be better returned to S&W because of their condition.

As I stated . . . . YMMV. In fact, mine did.

Ken

[JAH 3rd]

Back in the mid-80's I bought a S&W model 34 .22lr revolver, also known as the kit gun. On an empty revolver, I tried the DA/SA trigger pull. The one that gave me pause was pulling the hammer back to SA mode. Very gritty. Just for fun, I pulled the hammer half-way back and took my thumb off the trigger. The hammer did not fall forward, it was frozen there. I could finish pulling the hammer back, but goodness, this was a new revolver. I just sent it to a gunsmith who smoothed the action. Don't remember the name, but he did this revolver good.

[LittleLebowski]

My brother saw the slide of a Glock come off during a match …… fuck if I’ll ever on one of those pieces of shit.

I know exactly why that happened and it's related to an re-assembly error.