@jetfire, sounds like we a Max Verstappen collab.
@jetfire, sounds like we a Max Verstappen collab.
Following closely. Just installed the Galloway in my new 856 UL. 12 rounds of Winchester, no issues. 4 rounds of gold dot, no issue. Then light strike on gold dot #5. Springs are getting yanked immediately.
Is there any issue running the factory hammer spring, and Galloway trigger spring? The factory trigger pull is heavier than my 12 pound Lyman can read, but with the Galloway trigger spring and factory hammer spring, it dropped closer to 10 pounds, which is better at least.
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I'm running the OEM hammer spring and Galloway trigger spring, a few hundred rd's and a ton of dry fire, the trigger's smooth and a little over 10lb's was 12+ as well.
I'd think the firing pin would do the trick, look like @JCN will tell!
My two spring and firing pin kits arrived today. I'll try and get them installed in one of my many 856s first to see how they do.
To the commenter above asking about running the factory mainspring and the galloway TRS, that should be fine. You'll need to watch out for short stroking the reset if you're shooting really fast.
For reference, Galloway springs in an 856UL.
It’s NOT reliable for harder primers.
10+ pounds but better than the 13-16+ factory stock.
Insides should be fairly familiar to most revolver enthusiasts.
The kits come with Wolff springs.
The firing pin is what I’m hoping makes the difference.
The pointy part of the pin is about the same length but the head of the new pin is longer.
So I used the lighter trigger return spring BUT….
This is super important and I had forgotten from my previous Galloway installs… you have to TRIM the return spring by 2 coils so it has enough travel to clear, otherwise the trigger won’t complete the stroke.