I sold my CZ Custom CZ Bullseye and am waiting for the used A01-LD I bought to arrive. CZ makes very addictive firearms.
I sold my CZ Custom CZ Bullseye and am waiting for the used A01-LD I bought to arrive. CZ makes very addictive firearms.
I did a thing last night...
Whoever mentioned the S2 was nowhere as complex as my decocker model CZ's I owned nearly 2 decades ago was correct. This whole experience was on par with a 92 or P226 disassembly and it gave me an opportunity to maintain springs I bought from Cajun GW. The only real issue I came across was that bastard disconnector pin. Took more than a few whacks to get it out. If I ever have to do it again, I read up that a auto-centering punch works like a charm.
But now the trigger is pure bliss on the break, much better than the DA/SA break. If anything, I may have to take it apart again to reinstall the pre-travel set screw as I (stupidly) installed it backwards in my alcohol-fueled frustration stemming from the disconnector pin.
Now just to refinish the frame, dunno if I want satin hard chrome or Blackout E100 cerakote.
A good way to punch out the pins in the hammer is to simply place it on top of a piece of wood you don't care about, use a good center punch and a big hammer, to break the staking as you drive the pin out, then use a 2mm straight punch to drive the pin into the piece of wood. Once out, carefully chamfer the edges of the pin before reinstalling and don't restake them. Or, use CGQ hardened hammer pins. As you've gone single action, you'd only need the one on the hammer strut, if you ever took it out to replace the hammer.
Glad you got it sorted though, I was waiting for the post asking either "what is this weird shaped thing" or "I lost the weird shaped thing" in both cases referring to the right side safety detent. Another common question is asking how to put the spring on the right side detent (there isn't one).
...and to think today you just have fangs
Rob Engh
BC, Canada
How hard is it to fit a safety on a SAO CZ? My thumb is not long enough to consistently flip off the left-hand safety on my new-to-me AO1-LD. CZ Custom has a wider paddle that would solve the issue, but I have never fit a safety on a CZ. I have done it on a 1911, so I should have enough mechanical aptitude and (most of) the proper tools.
I don't have any SA-only CZs, but on every CZ I've worked on the safety is a drop-in part, and very easy to install. Here's a link to excellent instructions:Originally Posted by farscott
http://www.olegnikitin.com/news/comp...5-sp-01-shadow
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
Just to add a little more PF thread drift™, did you use a kit to convert to SAO or did you buy the parts individually? The project wheels are turning...I did a thing last night...
Whoever mentioned the S2 was nowhere as complex as my decocker model CZ's I owned nearly 2 decades ago was correct. This whole experience was on par with a 92 or P226 disassembly and it gave me an opportunity to maintain springs I bought from Cajun GW. The only real issue I came across was that bastard disconnector pin. Took more than a few whacks to get it out. If I ever have to do it again, I read up that a auto-centering punch works like a charm.
But now the trigger is pure bliss on the break, much better than the DA/SA break. If anything, I may have to take it apart again to reinstall the pre-travel set screw as I (stupidly) installed it backwards in my alcohol-fueled frustration stemming from the disconnector pin.
Now just to refinish the frame, dunno if I want satin hard chrome or Blackout E100 cerakote.
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits - Mark Twain
Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy / Where is the wisdom we have lost in knowledge?
No kit, just parts. I bought extra springs for maitanence and replaced all current springs in the gun.
BE ADVISED - I am assuming you have various punches and a hammer to drive said punches. Another tool is a small right angle metal pick to utilize for aligning springs like the TRS and safety. And finally, some needle nose pliers since there is a small pin that almost got away from me that sits under the sear housing block, just behind the safety spring. The pliers were a godsend putting that pin back in it's hole.
Please read advice previously given about the disconnector pin, it'll save some frustration.
So the parts I would recommend from GGW are definitely the starter punch here for the trigger pin and disconnector -https://cajungunworks.com/product/sp...starter-punch/
A floating trigger pin since the OEM one will be useless after you punch it out - https://cajungunworks.com/product/floating-trigger-pin/
And of course, a SAO trigger of your choice. I wanted a red one from Armory Craft but they were out so I settled for the black one from CGW.
Last edited by coN; 04-15-2023 at 08:31 PM.
Thanks! I have hammers, punches, picks and bench blocks so tooling won't be an issue but that specific starter punch would probably be added to the order for good measure.
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits - Mark Twain
Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy / Where is the wisdom we have lost in knowledge?
I used a spring loaded punch as a starter punch after mangling some small punches, lol.
Worked great.
I have finally reversed the pre-travel set screw and got it in its proper orientation, then adjusted the pre-travel for the trigger. It now sits in position similarly to a TSO and the break is so good. Totally worth the money and effort.
Interestingly, one thing to make note of was I thought I was going to have to remove the grips, sear hosting block, etc to get to the trigger to reverse the set screw. Nope. All it took was removing the floating trigger pin and upon lifting the trigger, the trigger bar came with it. So if i ever wanted to swap the trigger again, its simple. But be advised, upon punching out the trigger pin, keep your 1/16" punch inside the trigger pin hole because that TRS will FLY. Totally encompass the slide inside a small box, turn it upside down and then pull the punch out. I put my hand over the TRS thinking that would be sufficient enough but when I pulled my punch the damn thing flew out the front of the slide cavity.
I suppose you could accomplish the same thing by placing an upside slide on a table, block the cavity on the front the slide and then pull the punch. One you swap/adjust your trigger, if you have a trigger slave pin it makes reinstalling the trigger so much easier with the TRS.
So in the end, thanks to everyones help, I can now forget the CZ Configurator site...
I *AM* the CZ Configurator. And *YOU* can be too.
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