No worries @Chuck Whitlock, it was an interesting comment.
Hey, on topic of grips, and in case there are any other noobies to 1911s reading, I had a relevant conversation with Brian Challis about grip screws. A while back, I had ordered a set of Challis slotted-head screws, thinking I would prefer them to Torx head (I do, personal preference). When I went to put them on, I was puzzled because the new screws sat proud of the grip surface (Springfield Garrison OEM Wood at that point). I put them back in the parts bin but shot an email off to Challis with a question.
I didn't think much about it, but a few days later Brian himself replied, and explained what was going on. The gist of it had to do with compatibility between my slim grips and his screws. He explained,
"...With slim wood grips the top counterbore in the grip (the depression to receive the screw) is cut to about half the depth of normal grips. They do this with wood grips because when the counterbore is cut to normal depth it leaves too little material between the top and bottom counterbore (the depression to receive the bushing). Over time, or if the screws are overtightened, the wood between the counterbores can be sheared off, leaving no material under the screw head to hold the grip in place. With durable grips made of G10 or other composites the top counterbore is usually made to standard thickness because the material is strong enough to handle the load.
Special shoulder head slim grip screws are made for use when grips have a shallow counterbore. I attached a photo of both screws. We don't make shoulder head screws because we only have a request for them a few times a year. However, they are available at Brownells and other major gun part suppliers. Look for slim grip screws."
The picture Brian sent me. The OEM Grip Screws on my Springfield look EXACTLY like the one on the right.
I thought that was pretty nice of him to reach out. I thanked him for this info and put the screws away until I had a use for them; which I did, by putting them on my normal grips, as above. Anyway, I'm sure most of ya'll probably already know this, but I find this stuff enlightening.
Last edited by RJ; 02-23-2023 at 09:25 AM.
That is interesting, Rich.
Like you, I decided that I wanted slotted screw heads rather than hex or Torx, as the hex/Torx sockets are bored into the shaft of the screw, which to my mind undermines the structural integrity of the screw.
I went with the Altamont slim grips because the slim bushings and slotted screws were included in the purchase. I was unable to find slotted thin screws anywhere else, and this explains that. If I ever change the bushings, I was planning to use VZ universal, as they are advertised to work with both slim and standard grip panels:
https://vzgrips.com/products/1911-gr...universal.html
I do like what Challis puts out, though, and the man seems like a class act.
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FYI, the P245 was a completely different gun than the P220. IIRC, the holes in the frame for pins were in different locations and required parts unique to the P45.
The P220 Compact was an attempt to use a shortened P220 frame to accomplish the same size as the P245. No special locking inserts or similar parts.
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It did...
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