carbine light placement

[LOKNLOD]

I think Doc summed it up well, too.
I've mostly used a G2L or Polytac LED at 11:00 out at the end of a 12" rail. On my SBR, when it still had a FSB, I had moved it to 1:00 and reached across with my thumb, but found that awkward. It was a compromise because I could put my hand further forward, without pushing the light so far out it was longer than the barrel. I've since tried the light at 12:00 after shaving the block and putting on a longer rail, and with an X300 i think that is about ideal (not ideal with a TLR1, though).

I don't know anything about the IR capabilities of the lights so I can't comment on that aspect.

[Al T.]

a simple rear push button light like a G2L in a VTAC mount

Saw a picture of one of Pat Roger's carbines set up like that and imitated it. Works like a champ.

My X300 is on my G17.

[zml342]

I've since tried the light at 12:00 after shaving the block and putting on a longer rail, and with an X300 i think that is about ideal (not ideal with a TLR1, though).

How is not ideal with the TLR1?

[jstyer]

The TLR1 is taller and does a decent job of occluding the sight picture.

[zml342]

That is good to know, thanks

[LOKNLOD]

How is not ideal with the TLR1?

Primarily, I think the switching of the X300 is superior in the 12:00 rifle mount position. Secondarily, the TLR bezel sticks up a little higher and blocks a little of bottom the front sight post. That's more minor annoyance than actual gripe, however.

It's worth noting that I currently have the TLR, and after getting a chance to play with an X300 mounted in that spot, it's on my short list to purchase now. There could be drawbacks to the 300 I've not experienced, but I think it's a little better suited to this usage than the TLR.

[LHS]

I'm a huge convert to the 12-o'clock X300. I'm running a DDM4V5 with a fixed Troy front sight just behind the X300, and love it. Hand placement is very natural, I don't get blinded going over or around cover, and no shadow from the barrel. 12-o'clock is the way to go IMHO.

[167]

I run a TLR-1 at the 3 o'clock position, but I have long fingers that make working the controls on the light no problem. May not work for non-skeleton fingered shooters.

[Odin Bravo One]

Sean, will you expand on this a little bit?
Where do you mount the switch, and all all your working carbines set up like this?

I figure pictures speak volumes that I can't.





To answer your questions, I put the tape switch (as you can see) on the 12:00 rail. This allows support hand thumb activation. Having it in this position decreases my odds for a light AD by bumping into something, and allows me to use my "thumbs forward" shooting grip with minimal shift to activate my WL.

Not every one of my carbines are set up with the tape switch on top, but most. I use the other side, about 10:00 for another tape switch for an ATPIAL. I use the recess between the rails to minimize the chance of an AD, but at times, if I am not running a top mounted IR Laser/Illuminator, I will put my WL tape switch in that 10:00 recessed position.

Having the light in it's 1:30 location keeps it out of my way, with minimal shadow or dead zones. I have yet to get it hung up on anything, so having it (barely) sticking out is not even the slightest bit of concern to me. A 6:00 mount is too easy to break a light if you have to go to muzzle strikes. Because I have different front sights and rails on different systems, I can't get consistency for a 12:00 mount. Some of these are not my choice, and I prefer to keep things as close as possible from one system to another.

The other configuration I run is on my SCAR, and it is a 9:00 300 or 600 factory mount Scout with clicky tail cap, and ATPIAL tape switch tucked in on top of the left side rail.

Like I said, this works for me and my shooting style, and other equipment requirements.

Most guys will go through several different trial and error sessions before they find the compromise that best suits their needs.

I have little use for the X200/X300 series of SF lights on a long gun unless the only other option is Insight Technologies garbage. I just don't find them nearly as user friendly as a G2, 6P, or Scout with a clicky or tape switch. I have also shot the X300 mounts loose during high volume shooting, or a hard whack on a metal object, requiring readjustment, and once losing a light. With a quality mount for a round body light, tighten once, mark it, and forget it.

Hopefully that answered your questions. My way of doing it is simply my way. The right way is what works best for you, your situation, and needs.

[JDM]

Thank you!