Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23

Thread: My Saiga 12 build

  1. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    Quote Originally Posted by LHS View Post
    Push-pull is your friend It will prevent you from getting beat up by the shotty.
    I'll look into that, thanks! My current technique is best described as "brace for impact"... just tighten up and lean into it. I'd love to take a good shotgun course, but they seem to be pretty uncommon, unless I want to pay for skeet instruction.

    J.Ja
    Owner/President of Titanium Crowbar, LLC

  2. #12
    Member LHS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Behind that cactus
    Quote Originally Posted by jmjames View Post
    I'll look into that, thanks! My current technique is best described as "brace for impact"... just tighten up and lean into it. I'd love to take a good shotgun course, but they seem to be pretty uncommon, unless I want to pay for skeet instruction.

    J.Ja
    Push-pull really works. After about 600 rounds of mixed bird, buck and slugs over a two day class, my shoulder felt no pain.

    That said, I like what you've done with the shotty. I've been seriously looking into a Saiga, but the spotty QC and the myriad aftermarket accessories mean I have to do a lot of research to avoid blowing a ton of money on it. Threads like these are priceless

  3. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    Quote Originally Posted by LHS View Post
    That said, I like what you've done with the shotty. I've been seriously looking into a Saiga, but the spotty QC and the myriad aftermarket accessories mean I have to do a lot of research to avoid blowing a ton of money on it. Threads like these are priceless
    I know exactly what you mean about doing the research first on these. I spent a lot of time looking into it as well before I made the buy.

    In terms of the QC issues, here is what I know:

    * Gas ports are not consistent. Some have a bunch of smaller ones, some have a few larger ones, both combinations work fine. Where you get in trouble are the "vodka specials" with only one or two small ports. This can be remedied, of course, but it's a major hassle.

    * The paint on the receivers is just awful. It's worse that they paint the receiver after assembly, so when you do the pistol grip conversion, there's a bare patch where the old one was. For a home defense gun, I wouldn't care. My next one, I'd seriously consider getting it parkerized instead of DuraCoat'ed, it would probably be a lot cheaper.

    * The quality of the pistol grip conversion can be bad, depending on who does it. I didn't look deep enough to be able to pick out anyone as being particularly "bad" or "good", but for what people seem to charge for this, it makes no sense to not do it yourself. Other than dealing with the bolt hold open (and you can get that done and over with by using a Krebs safety with the notch in it anyways, that will be a bit easier to manipulate to boot), it is a VERY quick job, 15 - 30 minutes. Why pay someone to possibly do a bad job with that? I see folks charging a $250 premium to ship one already converted, the parts are $100. I'm not paying $300/hour for labor.

    * It's a Russian-made AK at the end of the day. Some folks hail that as the be-all-and-end-all of AK manufacture. I don't. I'll say that I'll take a Russian AK over an Egyptian Maadi or a Romanian WASR and whatever the Bulgarians call their AKs. Russian-made stuff has always impressed me not for its durability per se or its fine engineering, but the fact that it was engineers so that the design can overcome the deficiencies at the factory. The rail I just got in is a testament to that. It clamps onto the AK side mount, and just provides an 11 or 13 slot rail on top and 5 or 7 slot rail on the side. It was *0.4 pounds*. That's mighty heavy, but it's because it's built like the fate of the world depends on it. If it were US-made, it would use a much more expensive, lighter, stronger metal and work just as well, be four times as expensive, and weight half as much.

    Hope that helps!

    J.Ja
    Owner/President of Titanium Crowbar, LLC

  4. #14
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    If I were building a pure home defense/trunk gun/etc. Saiga 12, I'd do the following. This will let you save a lot of money on the things your don't need (DuraCoat and wood stocks), letting you spend money on the things you do need (lights and RDS).

    This would give me a setup that I'd trust for any kind of home defense scenario or personal defense scenario where a long arm could be brought into play and a shotgun makes sense, up to about 100 yards depending on your load.

    * Pistol grip conversion using the trigger parts kit I mentioned before. Don't bother with DuraCoat or repainting the receiver, or just get some primer on there as a rust block. Do a trigger polish yourself if you want it to be a bit more refined.

    * Polymer pistol grip and NATO-length, fixed polymer stock.

    * Metal tri-rail setup with a light at 9 o'clock (or the switch to one) and a vertical grip, rail on the side mount with an Aimpoint H1 on top... or use a quad rail and put the H1 in a scout position.

    * 2 SGM 12 round stick mags jungle clipped, or 1 MD Arms 20 round drum with a clear backcover.

    * Omit the bolt hold open, or replace the safety with the Krebs safety with the bolt hold open notch; BHO isn't needed in the HD role and there's no need to risk doing something stupid in the heat of the moment.

    * Extended mag release.

    * Basic improved cylinder choke if you can find one (best choke for slugs... if you aren't going to throw 'em, I'd get something tighter), the PolyChoke if you can't.

    * Limbsaver pad on the stock.

    * Oversized charging handle.

    * Federal LE full power #00 or #1 buck (preferred), and slugs (I think Doc likes the Federal LE slugs too, but I'm not 100% sure)

    Things I would not spend time/money on:

    * Gas plugs - anything you are shooting in HD scenarios will cycle it just fine, with the possible exception of reduced recoil loads.

    * The "glass bolt" service. Looks great and refines the action and helps cycle bird shot, none of which is important for HD.

    * The wood furniture. Looks great, but it cuts your rail options quite a bit, and it's way too spendy for this use. I think it's heavier than the polymer too.

    * DuraCoat.

    * Night sights, ghost rings, etc. The Aimpoint will do it better.

    * Side folder stocks. You're firing full-power shotgun loads, I think that aiming and muzzle/recoil control are a lot more important than saving 12" of overall length. If space is a major concern (CQB, storage), instead of the NATO-length AK stock, get the adapter and use an M4 stock.

    J.Ja
    Owner/President of Titanium Crowbar, LLC

  5. #15
    Member LHS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Behind that cactus
    What's involved in doing the conversion? Do you have to cut metal at all? I unfortunately do not have access to any kind of metal shop, but I'm handy enough with hand tools and can borrow a dremel if need be (though the thought of grinding away on a gun scares me in my wallet).

    The setup I'd eventually like is an 8" or 10" SBS, with basic ghost-ring-style sights, a short stock with recoil pad (folding would be nice, but not mandatory), and IC choke. I don't need a ton of 3-gun cool-guy gear, I just want a short, handy little shotgun that can reliably deliver both HD loads (I want to get my hands on some of that new Federal #1 buck, I love their LE132-00) and birdshot for training/practice.

    Quote Originally Posted by jmjames View Post
    If I were building a pure home defense/trunk gun/etc. Saiga 12, I'd do the following. This will let you save a lot of money on the things your don't need (DuraCoat and wood stocks), letting you spend money on the things you do need (lights and RDS).

    This would give me a setup that I'd trust for any kind of home defense scenario or personal defense scenario where a long arm could be brought into play and a shotgun makes sense, up to about 100 yards depending on your load.

    * Pistol grip conversion using the trigger parts kit I mentioned before. Don't bother with DuraCoat or repainting the receiver, or just get some primer on there as a rust block. Do a trigger polish yourself if you want it to be a bit more refined.

    * Polymer pistol grip and NATO-length, fixed polymer stock.

    * Metal tri-rail setup with a light at 9 o'clock (or the switch to one) and a vertical grip, rail on the side mount with an Aimpoint H1 on top... or use a quad rail and put the H1 in a scout position.

    * 2 SGM 12 round stick mags jungle clipped, or 1 MD Arms 20 round drum with a clear backcover.

    * Omit the bolt hold open, or replace the safety with the Krebs safety with the bolt hold open notch; BHO isn't needed in the HD role and there's no need to risk doing something stupid in the heat of the moment.

    * Extended mag release.

    * Basic improved cylinder choke if you can find one (best choke for slugs... if you aren't going to throw 'em, I'd get something tighter), the PolyChoke if you can't.

    * Limbsaver pad on the stock.

    * Oversized charging handle.

    * Federal LE full power #00 or #1 buck (preferred), and slugs (I think Doc likes the Federal LE slugs too, but I'm not 100% sure)

    Things I would not spend time/money on:

    * Gas plugs - anything you are shooting in HD scenarios will cycle it just fine, with the possible exception of reduced recoil loads.

    * The "glass bolt" service. Looks great and refines the action and helps cycle bird shot, none of which is important for HD.

    * The wood furniture. Looks great, but it cuts your rail options quite a bit, and it's way too spendy for this use. I think it's heavier than the polymer too.

    * DuraCoat.

    * Night sights, ghost rings, etc. The Aimpoint will do it better.

    * Side folder stocks. You're firing full-power shotgun loads, I think that aiming and muzzle/recoil control are a lot more important than saving 12" of overall length. If space is a major concern (CQB, storage), instead of the NATO-length AK stock, get the adapter and use an M4 stock.

    J.Ja

  6. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    Quote Originally Posted by LHS View Post
    What's involved in doing the conversion? Do you have to cut metal at all? I unfortunately do not have access to any kind of metal shop, but I'm handy enough with hand tools and can borrow a dremel if need be (though the thought of grinding away on a gun scares me in my wallet).

    The setup I'd eventually like is an 8" or 10" SBS, with basic ghost-ring-style sights, a short stock with recoil pad (folding would be nice, but not mandatory), and IC choke. I don't need a ton of 3-gun cool-guy gear, I just want a short, handy little shotgun that can reliably deliver both HD loads (I want to get my hands on some of that new Federal #1 buck, I love their LE132-00) and birdshot for training/practice.
    The conversion is easy, no metal cutting required though you will need to drill a few rivets out. Get a good bit for when you do that, or start with a small bit then work your way up. It's really not much more work than removing the trigger assembly, then putting the new trigger assembly in the right place. A couple of notes on it...

    * If you want the bolt hold open, you will need to grind/cut a notch in it for the safety to pass through. Alternatively, Carolina Shooters Supply (who is EXCELLENT to deal with) sells pre-cut BHO's for $15. That will save you a ton of headache. For me, I had to re-do the install a zillion times because the notch wasn't the right size/shape and I had to keep making it bigger.

    * Using the "shepherd's crook" spring to hold stuff in place is a hassle, spend the $7 or $8 on the axis pin retaining plate and it's a snap to get it all back together again.

    * Don't forget to order the pistol grip screw, and you may also need to get the nut for it too, depending on if the trigger guard you get (some have the nut built-in).

    Going for the SBS is possible. Depending on how short you go, you may need to get a shortened piston (machine shop or gunsmith can install that for you) and shorten the gas tube and perhaps relocate the gas block. I'm not 100% sure how that would go, but I know that the folks selling SBSs built on Saigas (like Tromix) are asking a pretty big dollar amount for them.

    Re: ghost rings... the choices aren't great. There's the Kreb's set (http://store.carolinashooterssupply....-Custom/Detail) for $99. It's a barrel clamp design for the front, and no tritium. It uses an AR front post, so you can get a fiber front post, a colored plastic one, or a tritium one (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...ONT-POST-SIGHT $60). The only other choice is the Tromix tritium HK style ghost ring (http://store.carolinashooterssupply....ight-HK/Detail $120), which I *think* requires welding for the rear sight. Whatever you do, do NOT mount a rail or sights to the dust cover, you might as well not have them since the dust cover is loose. Unfortunately, the "Texas Dog Leg" mount doesn't fit the Saiga 12, because it mounts on the rear leaf sight and the Saiga 12 doesn't have the rear leaf sight.

    If you put sights on, you have 3 approaches for the rear: weld to the gas tube/receiver/etc., mount on a rail, or install in the leaf sight's dovetail. The Krebs ghost ring kit uses the dovetail, it is the most "no modifications needed" choice out there.

    Your options for getting a rail on the top of a Saiga 12 are:

    * Something that clamps onto the side mount - I just got one from Kalinka Optics (http://kalinkaoptics.com/mounts/ak-v...ck-finish.html $52) and it is excellent.

    * The Ultimak rails that mount on top of the gas tube using the rear sight dovetail to hold a nut and the front sight bead's hole (or a new one tapped in the gas block), Carolina Shooters Supply has two models for $99 each, depending on how your gun is set up.

    * A quad rail handgaurd; some of the tri-rails have an optional 4th rail. The quad rail may very well cover the leaf spring area or block you from installing a sight there, so if the sight you want uses it but you still want the rails (and you will for HD, for a vertical foregrip and a light), get the tri-rail.

    If you want to also shoot birdshot, you'll possibly end up having to get a new gas plug, but it all depends on how yours does. It's luck of the draw if it functions well with the bulk pack stuff (depending mostly on how many gas ports you get and their size), though the higher velocity birdshot (1200+ FPS like Winchester AA Sporting Clays, Remington Express Long Range, and Remington Nitro - my favorite) cycles them pretty fine with the factory gas plug... but they are 50% more expensive ($7.50/box vs. $5/box) so the $20 gas plug looks like a bargain after one trip to the range.

    So... the config that I'd recommend for you would be:

    * Krebs ghost rings - $99
    * Tritium AR front post - $60
    * Tri-rail - $100 (you can get a cheap polymer HG/rail for half this price)
    * Vertical foregrip (optional)
    * Light (optional)
    * Gas plug (as needed) - $20
    * Trigger kit - $60
    * Polymer pistol grip - $10
    * Pistol grip screw - $5
    * Folding Warsaw-length stock ("Warsaw length" is shorter than "NATO length", because Eastern Europeans are a bit shorter and wear lots of thick winter clothes for much of the year) or adapter + M4 stock; to save money, just use the fixed Warsaw length polymer AK stock at first, if you need to - $20
    * Axis pin retaining plate - $8
    * Pre-modified BHO or Krebs Safety with notch (optional... you don't need the BHO for HD at all, it's really only useful for the skeet range where they require open breech all the time)... it's not a "last round bolt hold open" which would actually be useful for HD...
    * Oversized charging handle (optional)
    * 2 12 round SGM stick mags or 1 20 round MD Arms drum (clear or smoke cover to check round count) - the Pro Mags have a bad reputation, both for sticks and drums - $80 - $100 total

    Prices are off the top of my head...

    So you'd be looking at $462 plus the purchase price of the gun (roughly $550 from Classic Arms, last I checked), after S/H you are looking at around $1,020 - $1,050 if you do the work yourself. The work is less than an hour from start to finish even if you've never done it before, it's a quick project. Expensive? Not in comparison to a lot of decent S/A shotguns on the market (Benelli, Beretta). Compared to the typical S/A HD shotgun out there (Mossberg 590, Remington 1187, etc.), yes. Compared to the typical P/A HD shotgun? Very much so. But to make it a fair comparison, it's not too much more than a decent pistol, especially if you cut a few corners (omit the ghost rings, fixed stock, polymer rails). Just doing the conversion to PG will set you back about $100 total, put down $100 more for magazines/drums, and you are looking at under $800 for a reliable (though unrefined) S/A shotgun with amazing capacity.

    But... what you get are two things. First, you get the proven AK action. There's a reason why you don't see many S/A shotguns in the HD/LE roles, and it boils down to "trust issues". Imagine if the world of pistol were such that the only semi auto pistols people would trust their lives to were HKs and $3,000 1911s, and everyone else was packing a revolver? That's the world of shotguns. Sad, eh?

    The other advantage to the S12 is the magazine. You can store the gun and ammo separately for safety, but be ready with a quick rock 'n lock and bolt charge. You can reload in a fraction of the time compared to any other shotgun, even though they tend to not like being loaded on a closed bolt depending on mag design unless you download by one round. Best of all, for the HD role, the 20 round drum is simply unbeatable. The only limitation with the drum is that you must use 2 3/4" shells (no 3" shells). No big deal... I've fired 3" Super X magnum #00 buck and 3" magnum slugs through mine, and I'd much rather have 2 3/4" shells with a bit lower recoil to let me put follow up shots on target faster. I know the "how many rounds onboard" topic is hot... having 2 - 3 times as many rounds available without a reload (and a reload in a fraction of the speed) is a game changer. I hope that I *never* see a situation in which 20 rounds of #00, #1, or 1 oz slugs is needed, but if I ever encounter that scenario, I'd prefer to have the S12 and a drum than a duck gun and a box of shells in my pocket.

    J.Ja
    Owner/President of Titanium Crowbar, LLC

  7. #17
    Member LHS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Behind that cactus
    Cool, thanks for the info. I've assisted on some AK builds before, and I've got a good grasp of the parts available for the rifle-caliber Kalashnikovs (you are 100% correct about the retaining plate vs. the shepherd's crook wire, that thing is a godsend if you're removing the FCG), I just wasn't sure what all went into converting the Saiga shotguns. I'll check out the local dealers and see if any have a Saiga for a reasonable price, then start getting some basic mods for it. I figure the trigger/pistol grip conversion parts and a Warsaw-length buttstock should be fine to start. I can work on rails and sights later. And yeah, I love me some Warsaw length on an AK. The 'NATO' length is way too long for me, especially on a shotgun. I run my ARs with the stock one or two notches out from collapsed, so the AK always felt fine to me in terms of length of pull.

    It may never supplant my beloved 870s, but I like the notion of a mag-fed SBS, and having commonality with my rifle-caliber AKs seems like a good way to consolidate manual of arms. If those Turkish AR-pattern shotguns turn out to be decent, I may get one of those as well. I hear Krebs is doing some interesting things with them.

    Quote Originally Posted by jmjames View Post
    The conversion is easy, no metal cutting required though you will need to drill a few rivets out. Get a good bit for when you do that, or start with a small bit then work your way up. It's really not much more work than removing the trigger assembly, then putting the new trigger assembly in the right place. A couple of notes on it...

    * If you want the bolt hold open, you will need to grind/cut a notch in it for the safety to pass through. Alternatively, Carolina Shooters Supply (who is EXCELLENT to deal with) sells pre-cut BHO's for $15. That will save you a ton of headache. For me, I had to re-do the install a zillion times because the notch wasn't the right size/shape and I had to keep making it bigger.

    * Using the "shepherd's crook" spring to hold stuff in place is a hassle, spend the $7 or $8 on the axis pin retaining plate and it's a snap to get it all back together again.

    * Don't forget to order the pistol grip screw, and you may also need to get the nut for it too, depending on if the trigger guard you get (some have the nut built-in).

    Going for the SBS is possible. Depending on how short you go, you may need to get a shortened piston (machine shop or gunsmith can install that for you) and shorten the gas tube and perhaps relocate the gas block. I'm not 100% sure how that would go, but I know that the folks selling SBSs built on Saigas (like Tromix) are asking a pretty big dollar amount for them.

    Re: ghost rings... the choices aren't great. There's the Kreb's set (http://store.carolinashooterssupply....-Custom/Detail) for $99. It's a barrel clamp design for the front, and no tritium. It uses an AR front post, so you can get a fiber front post, a colored plastic one, or a tritium one (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...ONT-POST-SIGHT $60). The only other choice is the Tromix tritium HK style ghost ring (http://store.carolinashooterssupply....ight-HK/Detail $120), which I *think* requires welding for the rear sight. Whatever you do, do NOT mount a rail or sights to the dust cover, you might as well not have them since the dust cover is loose. Unfortunately, the "Texas Dog Leg" mount doesn't fit the Saiga 12, because it mounts on the rear leaf sight and the Saiga 12 doesn't have the rear leaf sight.

    If you put sights on, you have 3 approaches for the rear: weld to the gas tube/receiver/etc., mount on a rail, or install in the leaf sight's dovetail. The Krebs ghost ring kit uses the dovetail, it is the most "no modifications needed" choice out there.

    Your options for getting a rail on the top of a Saiga 12 are:

    * Something that clamps onto the side mount - I just got one from Kalinka Optics (http://kalinkaoptics.com/mounts/ak-v...ck-finish.html $52) and it is excellent.

    * The Ultimak rails that mount on top of the gas tube using the rear sight dovetail to hold a nut and the front sight bead's hole (or a new one tapped in the gas block), Carolina Shooters Supply has two models for $99 each, depending on how your gun is set up.

    * A quad rail handgaurd; some of the tri-rails have an optional 4th rail. The quad rail may very well cover the leaf spring area or block you from installing a sight there, so if the sight you want uses it but you still want the rails (and you will for HD, for a vertical foregrip and a light), get the tri-rail.

    If you want to also shoot birdshot, you'll possibly end up having to get a new gas plug, but it all depends on how yours does. It's luck of the draw if it functions well with the bulk pack stuff (depending mostly on how many gas ports you get and their size), though the higher velocity birdshot (1200+ FPS like Winchester AA Sporting Clays, Remington Express Long Range, and Remington Nitro - my favorite) cycles them pretty fine with the factory gas plug... but they are 50% more expensive ($7.50/box vs. $5/box) so the $20 gas plug looks like a bargain after one trip to the range.

    So... the config that I'd recommend for you would be:

    * Krebs ghost rings - $99
    * Tritium AR front post - $60
    * Tri-rail - $100 (you can get a cheap polymer HG/rail for half this price)
    * Vertical foregrip (optional)
    * Light (optional)
    * Gas plug (as needed) - $20
    * Trigger kit - $60
    * Polymer pistol grip - $10
    * Pistol grip screw - $5
    * Folding Warsaw-length stock ("Warsaw length" is shorter than "NATO length", because Eastern Europeans are a bit shorter and wear lots of thick winter clothes for much of the year) or adapter + M4 stock; to save money, just use the fixed Warsaw length polymer AK stock at first, if you need to - $20
    * Axis pin retaining plate - $8
    * Pre-modified BHO or Krebs Safety with notch (optional... you don't need the BHO for HD at all, it's really only useful for the skeet range where they require open breech all the time)... it's not a "last round bolt hold open" which would actually be useful for HD...
    * Oversized charging handle (optional)
    * 2 12 round SGM stick mags or 1 20 round MD Arms drum (clear or smoke cover to check round count) - the Pro Mags have a bad reputation, both for sticks and drums - $80 - $100 total

    Prices are off the top of my head...

    So you'd be looking at $462 plus the purchase price of the gun (roughly $550 from Classic Arms, last I checked), after S/H you are looking at around $1,020 - $1,050 if you do the work yourself. The work is less than an hour from start to finish even if you've never done it before, it's a quick project. Expensive? Not in comparison to a lot of decent S/A shotguns on the market (Benelli, Beretta). Compared to the typical S/A HD shotgun out there (Mossberg 590, Remington 1187, etc.), yes. Compared to the typical P/A HD shotgun? Very much so. But to make it a fair comparison, it's not too much more than a decent pistol, especially if you cut a few corners (omit the ghost rings, fixed stock, polymer rails). Just doing the conversion to PG will set you back about $100 total, put down $100 more for magazines/drums, and you are looking at under $800 for a reliable (though unrefined) S/A shotgun with amazing capacity.

    But... what you get are two things. First, you get the proven AK action. There's a reason why you don't see many S/A shotguns in the HD/LE roles, and it boils down to "trust issues". Imagine if the world of pistol were such that the only semi auto pistols people would trust their lives to were HKs and $3,000 1911s, and everyone else was packing a revolver? That's the world of shotguns. Sad, eh?

    The other advantage to the S12 is the magazine. You can store the gun and ammo separately for safety, but be ready with a quick rock 'n lock and bolt charge. You can reload in a fraction of the time compared to any other shotgun, even though they tend to not like being loaded on a closed bolt depending on mag design unless you download by one round. Best of all, for the HD role, the 20 round drum is simply unbeatable. The only limitation with the drum is that you must use 2 3/4" shells (no 3" shells). No big deal... I've fired 3" Super X magnum #00 buck and 3" magnum slugs through mine, and I'd much rather have 2 3/4" shells with a bit lower recoil to let me put follow up shots on target faster. I know the "how many rounds onboard" topic is hot... having 2 - 3 times as many rounds available without a reload (and a reload in a fraction of the speed) is a game changer. I hope that I *never* see a situation in which 20 rounds of #00, #1, or 1 oz slugs is needed, but if I ever encounter that scenario, I'd prefer to have the S12 and a drum than a duck gun and a box of shells in my pocket.

    J.Ja

  8. #18
    Hokey / Ancient JAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Kansas City
    Quote Originally Posted by LHS View Post
    Push-pull is your friend It will prevent you from getting beat up by the shotty.
    Hope this isn't too much of a thread split, but can I ask who taught you push pull? I learnt it from Rob Haught in the nineties. I do love it.
    Ignore Alien Orders

  9. #19
    Member Al T.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Columbia SC
    I'm not LHS, but I was introduced to it in the mid '80's for running a sub-machine gun.

  10. #20
    Member LHS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Behind that cactus
    Quote Originally Posted by doctorpogo View Post
    Hope this isn't too much of a thread split, but can I ask who taught you push pull? I learnt it from Rob Haught in the nineties. I do love it.
    I learned it from him as well, in the early 90s. I've used it on everything from shotguns to a .500 Nitro Express double. Works like a charm.

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •