It's just a little different. Honestly, there's not a huge difference between taking an LCR and any other Ruger revolver - just be very, very cognizant of the cylinder latch spring, it's easy to loose or deform.Originally Posted by jandbj
Thankfully, you can swap a hammer spring by pulling the grip and using a paper clip.
Really? Didn’t think that was possible on an LCR. Thought you had to do the full disassembly to get the strut out from the top.
Done that plenty of times on J frames and now Taurus 856.
Thanks for the videos. That confirmed my thoughts that the trigger on my LCR is just fine the way it is now.
Confirm unloaded, remove grip.
Get paper clip, place gun in left hand, slowly press trigger to the rear. A small hole will become visible in the strut, insert paper clip, release trigger. Remove strut assembly.
Same
Thing applies on the 856, been a while on the J’s.
---delete, somebody already posted them---
Just wanted to update this post.
I had tried some different variations of "staging" my LCR trigger, so I could understand how it felt, as well as a more or less "pull straight through". It was pretty interesting, I could be wrong, but it almost feels like the trigger pull actually DECREASES just after the mid point. (I should note I was pulling extremely slowly in dry practice, and really paying attention.)
At any rate, I used a few rounds of my new 2024 purchase of Federal Gold Medal Match 148 gr wadcutters in live fire this week. I can't say I'm a very good revolver shooter, but I was happier with how I shot after dry practice. Below is with a new B-8 target that I added a square aiming mark to I am playing with at seven yards with a dot hold.
Just passed through 700 rounds on the gun, no issues since purchase in 2019. Funnily enough, I have frequently thought about selling it but I always hesitate. I carry it mostly as a pocket gun taking out the trash, or going to the gym AIWB in a Dark Star Gear. I did pick up a spring pak of hammer spring options from Gunsprings dot net but I'm not really sure I want to learn how to break the gun down to swap them out as an experiment. The trigger press is 8.3 lbs, which seems to be manageable. It is pretty smooth at this point.
Last edited by RJ; 02-09-2024 at 07:10 AM.
Almost like spring yesterday, made a little time for my LCRX .22 3" before dark, I've gotta spend more time with this, it's accurate, inexpensive and fun.
The silhouette is 8-10yd's at a quick candence, the plate's at 25 with Mini Mags and Aguila super extra. I've got to spend more time and figure out the 25yd hold point
I have mentioned on here before that the recoil on my 9mm LCR is very unpleasant to me so I leave the gun in the safe. I decided to make some reduced loads for plinking so I could shoot the gun.
I found that the 9mm and the 38 Short Colt were very close volume wise. I loaded some ammo with a beginning Short Colt Titegroup load and Bayou 135 round nose coated bullets. This averages 660 fps and is very pleasant to shoot.
I have the factory front sight painted green. I shot 5 of the first test loads at the IPSC steel at 15 yards and 4 at the square steel at 25 yards. It appears to be an accurate load as soon as I settled down and pressed the trigger correctly. I fired 1 shot at the 50 yard steel with a miss.
Good load & good shooting too!I have mentioned on here before that the recoil on my 9mm LCR is very unpleasant to me so I leave the gun in the safe. I decided to make some reduced loads for plinking so I could shoot the gun.
I found that the 9mm and the 38 Short Colt were very close volume wise. I loaded some ammo with a beginning Short Colt Titegroup load and Bayou 135 round nose coated bullets. This averages 660 fps and is very pleasant to shoot.
I have the factory front sight painted green. I shot 5 of the first test loads at the IPSC steel at 15 yards and 4 at the square steel at 25 yards. It appears to be an accurate load as soon as I settled down and pressed the trigger correctly. I fired 1 shot at the 50 yard steel with a miss.
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