I think it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If you are using your laser primarily at close distances and have a small offset between laser and bore, the zero is less important. Using a laser like the X400, with a substantial offset, the zero becomes quite important.
I tried to figure this out when I was trying to pick a usable zero for an X400, and frankly having a heck of a time. Consider the following chart, showing a 7 yard zero for the X400:
At the muzzle, your bullet will have a 2.9 inch difference between POA and POI. At 7 yards, POA and POI coincide. At 20 yards, POA and POI diverge by six inches, making a difference in POI of 8.9 inches between the muzzle and 20 yards. At 35 yards, there is a full 17 inch difference in POI between there and the muzzle. The bullet will strike 14 inches below your laser dot. It is easy to figure out why I was having such a hard time.
Now consider the parallel zero:
From the muzzle to 25 yards, the POA and POI stay a consistent 3 inch offset, and then it diminishes until POA and POI are coincident at 50 yards.
With the 7 yard zero and an X400, I just don't have enough brain power to have a clue what POA and POI will be through 25 yards, no less 50 yards.
You can construct the same analysis for a laser with less offset like the CT laser grips. With those, and a parallel zero I just remember the bullet will strike one inch high and left for a long way. I try to make a final zero check at 50 yards with a laser, and going out at dusk it is easy to do this. It is amazing how small groups you can shoot at 50 yards in dim light with the laser on a pistol, and shooting 8 inch steel in those lighting conditions is faster than red dot or irons in any light -- bright or dim.
Spending a lot of time outdoors, frequently in dim or dark conditions, I am very keen on a usable 50 yard zero. Others who don't do that, will value this less.