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Thread: GLOCK front sight Jump

  1. #11
    Member StraitR's Avatar
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    Excess over-travel can exacerbate sight bounce. This is pronounced in Glocks, for ME, and something I had to get used to. How does your 19's trigger compare to your 26 and 23? I'm thinking this isn't the issue seeing as you swapped around all the parts and nothing changed, but it's worth a second look at this point.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by psalms144.1 View Post
    OK, so, having dissected and interchanged the parts between my G19, G26, and G23, no combination of parts completely eliminates the sight movement I'm seeing. In fact, the lifting then dropping of the rear of the slide is becoming more pronounced the more I focus on it. At this point I'm back to all the parts in the pistols they originally came out of (I think!), and stumped.

    As much as I dread it, based on my fiascos in the 2010-2012 time frame, I think I'm going to have to call GLOCK and see about a trip back to Smyrna... The raising/dropping of the rear of the slide just seems like there's something very out of tolerance going on in the frame/rails, and is something I've never seen before in all the Glocks I've ever owned.
    I have at least two Glocks that have some noticeable vertical movement of the slide as the trigger is pulled. I just assumed it was normal due to the rather loose slide/frame fit of Glocks.

  3. #13
    Of the three gen4 19's I have, the one I can consistently reproduce the vertical "slide drop" effect on is a 2012 SYR prefix that is my range/dry fire gun. Applying very firm pressure concentrated on the front to back strap only is when this occurs. Not even sure it's possible to flex a frame by grip alone enough to cause this.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by psalms144.1 View Post
    Not sure if this belongs here, or in the gunsmith section. Here's my deal:

    I've been struggling with accuracy woes with my Gen4 G19 for a while now. Nothing AWFUL, but I'm measurably and consistently less accurate with my G19 than my Gen4 G26, my Gen4 G23, or my G30S. So, I figured I needed to get back to basics and knuckle down with some dry fire drills. This is what I'm observing:

    Whenever I press the trigger on my G19, the front sight "jumps" visibly. Sometimes straight up, sometimes up & left. When I say "jump," I mean it literally looks like a strong vibration snap off true. On occasion, I can see the rear end of the slide rising as I press through the trigger as well - but that's a rare event. The front sight jump, however, happens about 80% of the time. I've tried pressing the trigger straight through with a variety of finger positions, tried "prepping" to the "wall" and pressing through, tried a crush grip, tried a moderate grip, tried one hand strong/weak. I've tried all manners of stock and after market trigger components, including the standard Gen4 trigger & bar, 3rd Gen G17 smooth trigger & bar, dot connector, "-" connector, Ghost Evo ("-" equivalent, allegedly), standard trigger spring, NY1 trigger spring, standard striker spring, heavy duty striker spring. None of these part combinations will make the "jump" go away.

    The strangest part is this - it only happens with the G19. All my other Glocks, the front sight is perfectly still if I do my part and don't smash the trigger. I'm a fairly experienced Glock shooter and firearms instructor, have smoked successfully through several "name" programs with other G19s in the past, and have never had the kind of accuracy woes I'm experiencing with this G19.

    At this point, I'm open to any thoughts/comments/suggestions...

    Thanks in advance!

    Regards,

    Kevin
    My 19 does this, and to a lesser extent so does my 34. Caveat, slow fire I can almost eliminate it, but trigger pulls at speed, fu get about it. I thought this problem was:

    A. Typical a of a striker fired pistol
    B. Me (crazy talk, I know)

    no joke, I've got a 1911 (Valor, curse you PF and threads with pics) on order because after 4 + years of dry fire I still haven't been able to eliminate the "jump" you are referring to.

  5. #15
    Try dryfire with a dumby round in the chamber and see if there is a difference. It is not unusual for glock slides to move with an empty chamber in dryfire. What your describing does sounds more excessive than usual.

  6. #16
    Site Supporter psalms144.1's Avatar
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    StraitR - funny that you mention that, as the only combination that makes this "jump" go away is with an aftermarket connector that limits over travel. So, the question is, with a duty gun and not wanting to mess with after market "competition" parts, how do I decrease the overtravel?

    Cheap Shot - sorry to hear you're suffering the same issue. When I get the chance to get GLOCK on the horn I'll let you know what they suggest

    Leroy - I'm anal about dry firing only with snap caps (A Zooms, usually), so it's not an "empty chamber" issue in this case.

    Thanks again!

  7. #17
    Member StraitR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by psalms144.1 View Post
    StraitR - funny that you mention that, as the only combination that makes this "jump" go away is with an aftermarket connector that limits over travel. So, the question is, with a duty gun and not wanting to mess with after market "competition" parts, how do I decrease the overtravel?

    Cheap Shot - sorry to hear you're suffering the same issue. When I get the chance to get GLOCK on the horn I'll let you know what they suggest

    Leroy - I'm anal about dry firing only with snap caps (A Zooms, usually), so it's not an "empty chamber" issue in this case.

    Thanks again!
    I had a 19 that came out of the box with the same issue. After changing to a G17 flat trigger (preference) and swapping out several factory "-" connecters, it felt comparable to my other Glocks, and those belonging to my little training circle of friends. Judging solely on that experience, my SWAG is tolerance stacking, culminated by a connecter on the long side of spec. That was around 5-6 years ago on a Gen 3, but my current Gen 4 19 still breaks earlier than my Gen 4 17 with same parts installed and similar approach to changing connecters. No mic was available for measurements, so I'll be interested to see if anyone chimes in who has measured connectors for length.

    I wish I had a better answer for you, other than getting ahold of several examples of the stock factory connecter to try, but any suggestions on altering a duty weapon is out of my lane.

  8. #18
    I have eight Glocks here; two 26s, two 17s, and four 19s. They range from a new Gen4 G26 with less than 500 rounds, to the original G19 I purchased in 1992 that has in excess of 30K rounds through it. After reading this thread, I dry-fired each one while watching. They ALL showed this vertical rear-of-the-slide displacement, ranging from barely perceptible to "Why the hell haven't I noticed this before???"

    And age/round count is apparently not a factor; the one that does it the worst is a police trade-in G17 I got last year, that was hardly fired at all… by the cop it was issued to, or me. But I have had HUNDREDS of different Glocks in my hand over the years, many of which were immediately function-checked to see whether it was the gun or the driver, and I confess to never having noticed this idiosyncrasy; or if did, I wasn't alarmed by it.

    Thinking about it further, I now recall that the one Sig P320 I examined had very pronounced movement during dry fire; already not enthused with the pistol's looks and feel, I remember thinking "Well, so much for that."

    My sample-of-one VP9 does it too… EVER so slightly, but its there. The two examples of the M&P I had, I just don't know about them, as I didn't have them long enough to see this (I was otherwise unimpressed with them).

    This is weird. I wonder if it just a by-product of SFA? The next example of a Serbo-Croat Special that comes through the lab, I'll be sure to check it for this.

    .

  9. #19
    Member StraitR's Avatar
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    It's also a linear byproduct of increasingly heavy triggers. The more force required to break the shot translates into more force transferred into the pistol when the trigger reaches the end of its travel.

    ETA: Most, and quite often all, of this movement can be mitigated through grip. I just prefer less over travel.
    Last edited by StraitR; 12-07-2014 at 02:41 PM.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by StraitR View Post
    ETA: Most, and quite often all, of this movement can be mitigated through grip.

    I just tried various grip "strengths" on one of my G17s (the one that moves a lot when you pull the trigger). No apparent change.

    It seems pretty clear to me that the FPB extension on the trigger bar is what is causing the slide to move. How, exactly, will changing one's grip mitigate that?

    .

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