Every once in a while, I get a 1911 in my possession that just is right. The last two have been CQB-Es. Take that for what it's worth.
*Quick disclaimer: I do not get paid by WC. In spite of my best efforts, the flow of money has been entirely one way with this company. I'm not happy about that, but there you go.*
So, the top two points of contention in the 1911 world are mags and extractors. In my mind, the first is arguable right now. The second is a result of ignorance and nothing else. What follows are my unpaid, unscripted, random thoughts and gripes, which are worth exactly what you are paying for them.
The subject of the discussion, a brand spanking new CQB-E:
Here is a picture showing why there are not "1911s" anymore:
Top is a perfectly fitted WC Bullet Proof extractor, bottom a Ed Brown Hard Core extractor. Notice the differences in them? The Wilson is wider, the caming surface is more radiused, and the bevel on the bottom is more gradual.
So, they are different. Significantly, different, and both will work just fine if installed correctly.
So, how do you install an extractor correctly? I've always marveled at the experts griping about fitting an extractor. If you need to flush/serrate/checker it, sure. That takes a bit of time. 45 min maybe. Otherwise, it's just above trivial. All you need is to know how it should fit.
Which means you need.......to know what dimension you are striving for.
These come in handy to ensure proper hook height. That kinda matters. I have more than a couple "Tier 1" 1911s from uber builders - there is no consistency in their hook height.
This is how the CQBE came from Wilson (using Ranger ammo)
The whole "check with a loaded round" is a half assed approach. Cartridge rims, especially today, very wildly. Building up a gun isn't about feel or trial and error. It's about knowing the numbers and working to them. Either you know the numbers or you don't.
Next comes the discussion of tension. You do not want to use one of these:
That's an awesome bench block. I have 3. They are wonderful, and worth every penny. But using one to tension your extractor is horribly foolish.
You use one of these to do this job:
My normal one has a ball bearing set in the stop screw. This allows you to actually adjust the extractor with some modicum of control and precision.
Now, you can do the by feel, and most of the time it will come out just fine. However, if you want to be correct there is interplay between the type of ammo, the ejector, and the extractor geometry and tension. I set my guns up for 230g ammo at a PF of 195. Which is what Ranger typically shoots for me, using a WC Bulletproof ejector and extractor.
Determining the proper tension took some effort, but here is how I generally went about it: I put a CQB into a Ransom, and varied the tension (now you know why I don't do this by just bending the extractor) until all the cases wound up about 5 feet away in a neat little pile. Proper springs, FPS, extractor, and ejector geometry. I got my own ideal now. Remember, all else equal, consistency is reliability. It simply is.
Now, once you are set up, the extractor should never need readjustment. The hook will break in something like 20k to 80k. Some last longer, some don't, but that's the range. It shouldn't lose tension.
Seems like lots of trouble? I can hear the derp now. "Drop in parts!" It doesn't work like that. Look at all the G17 extractor issues. Swapping out parts until it works is a fools folly, IMO. YMMV.
Now for more pics!
Cheers!
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by tomr
