Glock trigger setups

[Clay]

I've been running Glocks since about 1997, and a pair of Glock 23's were my only pistols for a few years in which I took several pistol classes around 2000-2004. I've owned ten Glocks over the years, and currently carry a Gen 3 Glock 21, Gen 4 G19 and a Gen 3 G26. I say this just to point out that I am familiar with Glocks and have had professional instruction.

One thing I have noticed is that every Glock trigger is different, and some experimentation and polishing normally goes a long way.

Most of the time I run the standard factory trigger setup, although I have tried all the different OEM setups such as the minus connector and NY1 spring, etc.. One thing I haven't done is played with different springs or aftermarket parts, other than one Lone Wolf connector that wasn't for me. I normally polish the connector and trigger bar with Flitz, and use TW-25B grease, which helps a lot.

I have ordered a ZEVTech V4 Race connector and extra power trigger spring to play with in my Gen 4 G19, which has a pretty lousy trigger. I did install a smooth OEM trigger bar already.

Anyone have any experience with the Glockworx or Ghost stuff? Has the controversial Skimmer trigger gained any headway? Anyone try the Taran Tactical stuff? What Glock trigger setup is everyone using?

[GJM]

I believe there is a lot more going on, that influences how a Glock trigger feels, than just the trigger parts. Yesterday, I took a Glocktriggers.com Guardian trigger assembly out of a late model Gen 3 17, installed it in a "K" prefix Gen 3, and it felt completely different (better). I am almost to the point, that I feel like the variation in individual Glock pistols is as or more important than the trigger components in determining whether you end up with a good Glock trigger.

I have used stock, dot, minus, Glocktriggers.com, Vanek and Taran Tactical. They all have plusses and minuses, depending upon what you are trying to accomplish. Firing pin spring weight makes as much or more difference than the trigger kit in trying to get a light trigger in a game gun. Most common solution is to just stick a minus in, and call it done.

[45dotACP]

Most common solution is to just stick a minus in, and call it done.

Thread.

But in all seriousness, I tried the whole "play around with different connectors." I found it to be considerably more frustrating and time consuming than performing trigger work on my 1911. I just called it quits and put a Lone Wolf connector in.

I even polished a trigger bar once. It became the most horrible trigger pull I have felt in the history of ever and I wound up buying a new trigger bar and calling it quits. It was probably 4lbs, but after maybe 50 trigger pulls, the weight increased to easily 12lbs.

Not the answer you were likely looking for, but at the end of it all when I remembered that there are GM level shooters using minus connectors or even just stock connectors, maybe the best way to buy better shooting skill is to buy more ammo or handloading components.

[GJM]

The Glocktriggers guy told me he would never consider anything but an OEM connector in a Glock used for carry. Not long later, TLG broke his Lone Wolf connector. I installed some, looking for "roll." I pulled them all, put OEM in, and never looked back.

[Jeep]

The Glocktriggers guy told me he would never consider anything but an OEM connector in a Glock used for carry. Not long later, TLG broke his Lone Wolf connector. I installed some, looking for "roll." I pulled them all, put OEM in, and never looked back.

I've become convinced that with Glocks, OEM is the only way to go for pretty much anything but sights. For a target gun, a (-) connector makes a lot of sense. And personally I like a NY1 with a (-) connector for a carry gun (I'd prefer a Glock-installed thumb safety but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon). Otherwise, the only non-Glock operating part I'm willing to use is an Apex extractor, and I only will use those when the Glock extractors aren't doing the job. For whatever reason, Glocks seem to work best with OEM parts.

[jlw]

I'll say up front that I am affiliated with GlockTriggers.com. I do think the polishing speeds a trigger well on to where it needs to be. I will agree with GJM that it is more than just the trigger components. I think nuances in the frame construction also come into play as I have moved all of the trigger parts from one frame to another and gotten slightly different feels.

[JBP55]

Polishing the internals and installing a V4 connector is a decent trigger. I do not normally use the 6.0# trigger springs in Gen 4 Glocks because it may cause trigger reset issues. The 6.0# trigger spring will reduce the trigger pull approximately 4.0 Oz. As stated above the firing pin spring can make a big difference.
The 4.0# spring should only be used in a range gun and changed fairly often in order to prevent light strikes unless you are using federal primers or an extended firing pin. The 4.5# is quite reliable in a stock Glock when changed every 10,000 rounds. Same for the 5.0# spring. It varies from spring to spring but the trigger pull will be reduced approximately 5.0 Oz. with a 5.0# spring, 10.0 Oz. with a 4.5# spring and 15.0 Oz. with a 4.0# spring. I have used many springs but the numbers above are for Wolff springs.
The pull weight of a Zev. 2.0# spring is roughly the same as a Wolff 4.0# spring and the Zev. 3.0# spring is roughly the same as a Wolff 4.5# spring.
Vanek, DK triggers, Johnny Glocks and Glockworx as well as others make good competition triggers.
I have tried the TTI and Ghost kits but they do not equal the four complete trigger kits above.

[JHC]

I've become convinced that with Glocks, OEM is the only way to go for pretty much anything but sights. For a target gun, a (-) connector makes a lot of sense. And personally I like a NY1 with a (-) connector for a carry gun (I'd prefer a Glock-installed thumb safety but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon). Otherwise, the only non-Glock operating part I'm willing to use is an Apex extractor, and I only will use those when the Glock extractors aren't doing the job. For whatever reason, Glocks seem to work best with OEM parts.

I recently, finally got a trigger scale and was fascinated to see that all of my Gen 3's with a minus connector come in around 5.5 lbs (yet they all feel a little different). My friends stock 19 with the standard connector, 6.5 lbs.

[JBP55]

I recently, finally got a trigger scale and was fascinated to see that all of my Gen 3's with a minus connector come in around 5.5 lbs (yet they all feel a little different). My friends stock 19 with the standard connector, 6.5 lbs.

Almost all Glocks have a heavier trigger pull weight than the number on the box 4.5# or 5.5#.

[HopetonBrown]

I have a Taran Butler Glock and I love it. Have taken it through classes with Pannone and Proctor without issue. It's the "RTG" package on his website.