What's your budget and what does your ideal AR look like?
What's your budget and what does your ideal AR look like?
Think for yourself. Question authority.
For a first AR, it's difficult not to recommend a Colt 6920 (6720 for a little lighter weight) at right around $1k.
In addition to budget, do you have an idea what you want to do with the rifle, competition, self-defense, plinking, do it all?
Although a sample of one, I had a problem with the RRA NM trigger on the first AR I assembled myself that would occasionally double. Luckily, I replaced it before it ever doubled in the presence of a LEO.
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Last edited by tremiles; 04-24-2014 at 02:38 PM.
Get one of these, 2 point sling, an AIMPOINT PRO and you're in business, for right around $1500.
As others have said, training is paramount. All of the whiz-bang gear won't mean a hoot in hell if you can't employ it properly.
Pretty much everyone here (all more accomplished than me) is offering you the same advise which is solid, I will chime in with my experience with SIG ARs and with triggers.
I have acquired a few AR pattern rifles over the years, including a couple of BCMs, a Colt (20 inch A2), an M&P, and a Sig. I acquired the Sig516 piston AR last year in a trade. It was not what I had originally set out to get but it kind of fell in my lap and on a $$$ basis, made sense to me to trade for. Because it and the EOTECH sight it came with were radically different than any other AR I have owned (being a DI/Aimpoint guy), I decided to shoot it for a couple years just to see what it was made out of. Given that 2013 brought me a newborn in addition to my 2010 model toddler, I haven't been able to put tons of rounds though the thing nor have I shot it particularly hard. That said, in the 500 or so rounds that I have put through it, it has shown to be accurate (most accurate 16 inch I own out of 3), well built, and performs as advertised. No malfunctions have been experienced but given its lower round count that isn't saying much. I have refrained from cleaning or lubing it since the initial shooting and will continue to do so until it passes the 1000 round mark or starts to hiccup on me. Given that it is a piston gun and all the fancy videos Sig made for the 516, cleaning and lube shouldn't be needed. All and all, it is a good rifle, is performing well, and I like it.
THAT SAID
I remain 100% unconvinced that the Sig516 (or any other piston AR) offers me, a civilian that shoots more than most and a whole lot less than many, non class III AR user, anything over a quality DI gun. While the 516 has some nice features, it has things I don't like including a higher price tag, proprietary gas system, proprietary hand guards (currently I am stuck with a 7 inch quad rail although Lancer now makes a carbon fiber 13 inch rail and Sig is designing a new mid length rail), and approximately 1 lb increase in weight. Also a less important but still nagging problem is that the BUIS do not lock into the raised position.
A DI Smith M&P and on up are all good to go and can be had for at least $300-$500 under what a 516 will run you.
Sig's DI rifles incorporate a lot of the things that are nice about the 516 and can be found in the $800 range. There is a lot of Sig mistrust out there right now, but the California Highway Patrol was impressed enough with the A400 to make a large purchase of them and begin en mass issue of the Sigs replacing the "Lend/Lease" M-16s the CHP had been using. That along with my positive experience thus far with the 516 would make the A400 worth a look in my humble book, rating them about on par with the Smith and Wesson's.
As far as triggers go, as others have said, avoid the Rock River 2 stage. Learn to shoot a standard AR trigger, find what you like and then get it. I have been usually pleased with the stock triggers on the Smiths and Sigs I have and have played with, but it is usually hit and miss with stock AR triggers. If you get a trigger that is too heavy or gritty for you liking you can try swapping out the springs with the JP springs. If that still doesn't work for you, look at ALG Defense triggers which are basically cleaned up stock AR triggers. I am currently using an ALG with JP springs in my "Service Rifle" gun. I am very far from being a contender, but it gives me a very nice and predictable single stage trigger that I favor over many more expensive AR triggers I have used.
Last edited by Suvorov; 04-24-2014 at 05:32 PM.
To quote Ken Elmore, who may know more about the AR/M16 system than Eugene Stoner; "Jets engines don't need pistons, neither do my ARs"
Considering that the AR has a very definable piston, I would disagree with your first statement.
Now, it is my understanding that Ken said that tongue-in-check, however, there are a lot of people out there that think that they know more than they functionally do about the AR operating system.
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Knight's Armament Company
I have been earnestly reading everyone's opinions and thoughts and I appreciate everyone. Some asked what the purpose of the rifle will be and what I am looking for in an AR15. The rifle will be a home defense tool and used in law enforcement work. I already have the Aimpoint PRO and I will look into the 2 point sling. Now for the rifle itself: The following are what I want the AR to have. Mid length gas system DI. Free float handguard capable of 1913 rails in the 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 positions at the end of the handguard/rail. 1913 rail across the top of the upper receiver and the length of the handrail. Low profile gas block. 6 position stock. Ergo handgrip. Tough stainless steel barrel (possibly blackened) with a 1:8" twist and 16 inches in length. Chome moly barrel is acceptable. Back up co-witness sights are already purchased: Troy front rear folding di-optic sights. A good trigger pull. 10 standard aluminum magazines with the green follower already purchased. Training ammo already purchased.
I really don't think you need the 1/8 unless you can find one for the same price as a 1/7.
#RESIST
Are there possible inherent funtioning problems with the 2 stage triggers?