Weld.
Definitely.
Though, I might bail on that tang. Now that I've got it apart, I'm not sure I want to use it.
ETA: I might not have SIG parts laying around, but I do have 1911 and P35 parts laying around.
He might be referring to this thread from '07
http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread....escue-Team-BHP
The two Mk IIIs I shot the heck out of in the '90's were superb. I didn't do anything to them and I found the triggers perfectly serviceable. They were as reliable as anything I've ever owned. When I found myself struggling with the reset on them after resuming 1911 and then Glock shooting; I parted ways with them both. I try not to think about that too much.
“Remember, being healthy is basically just dying as slowly as possible,” Ricky Gervais
That one in particular, or just bailing on the beavertail altogether?
(I brought up the silver solder thing because of Frank James' comment in this post. It sounded kinda 'urban legend-y', but not worth arguing over at the time. I know gun store lore is down on the newer High Powers because they've been south of the Pyrenees and you know what that does to steel... )
Welding velveeta is typically easier/more successful (from this frame of reference) than welding the harder cast steel in the MkIII.
Re Pyrenees: *golf clap*
I really don't dig on TIG welding P35s. Too much heat. Way too much.
Bill, why is it important to have a flat bottom firing pin stop in a P-35?Bill Riehl: I'm staring at the Warner ignition and extractor parts right now. Pics asap. I really like them.
And anyone shooting a GP should have one of his flat bottom firing pin stops in their gun.
Is it this: http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Firing-P...o/399B%2C70SQ/
Slightly oversize, this rugged, tool steel firing pin stop will prevent excessive extractor movement and is left square on the bottom to help tune your slide’s recoil to your preference.
Use a small bevel on the face of the stop for heavier loads, more bevel if you tend to shoot lighter loads.
This part will require light fitting.