I've used Slipstream.
I've used Slipstream.
#RESIST
(Emphasis mine)
Nope. There can be different surface finishes. In which case, the lubricant can fill the valleys of the finish (for example sandblasted vs as machined vs ground vs lapped/polished). However, same point as before. Unless we are talking powdered metallurgy, in which case, porosity is a legitimate and real concern. Of course, lubricants can penetrate into some finishes, like phosphate/park. But these are typically quite soft and are removed along with the finish fairly early on with use. DLC is a unique little situation, where the tens of microns thick finish is somewhat porous, and due to the composition of the finish (sp3 carbon) typically "wets out" with oil. This is why some people who lubricate their DLC finished gun see the oil "creep" or "migrate" from the inside to the outside of the gun. What the "surface is modified and therefore protected/lubricated" salesman are getting this BS from is with boundary layer lubricants. Which only work when the surface finish is of the approximate thickness of the lubricating film. Which is never on a gun.
Most manufactures of these products keep their designs "secret" (from the public) because of threat of exposing marketing BS. There aren't any real secrets, and "R&D" doesn't happen with the people selling these products.
Handguns aren't a tough application, so people get away with snake oil, because even if it comes from a snake, it's still oil.
Full auto BCGs are an entirely different animal. I'm an advocate of BN coatings and dry lubes for that.
Well, two differences: You tested it with an AR platform, and you don't say whether you used the grease or the oil.
I used the oil and used it on a handgun.
I love the stuff, have had no issues with it, and really like the low friction it provides. And, I have been using it for about two years.
Cody
That a well-regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the proper, natural, and safe defense of a free state;
I use 5W-30. It works really well for all my guns, but I do have to admit it's not great for corrosion prevention. Plus a quart of Shell costs less than 4 ounces of ToadGoo.
I heart this thread.
--Josh
“Formerly we suffered from crimes; now we suffer from laws.” - Tacitus.
ToadGuts is peppermint flavored olefin. Olefin is a crap lubricant. It's a gummy, plasticy wax.
Engine oil has organo-phosphates and sufates added to absorb combustion water which is quite acidic. Not the type of corrosion protection we want with guns. You'd be better off with non-detergent oil. Like air compressor or lathe/machine oil from Grainger.com
I have a 35lb pail of Pennzoil 0000 urea complex grease I use for just about everything nowadays. Has good anti corrosion additives, excellent tack, and high burn off temperature. My range bag has a 50ml squeeze bottle of it. When the temp is 1F like today, I just carry a Colt.
The only actual porous metal I know of, proven to absorb oil, is the cast iron used to build machine tools for the last 150+ years. (As Bill probably suspects by now I know my way around a machine shop.) One of the steps in fully restoring an awesome old piece of precision machinery like this Cincinnati No.2 Mill (sadly, not mine) is to bake it to drive the soaked-in oil out of the porous casting. A beast that size can sweat out quite a bit of oil after absorbing it over 60-80 years.
Last time I checked, my guns didn't have porous iron castings anywhere, so I'm pretty sure I don't buy the whole "soaks in" thing. Don't know why these guys can't pick a more accurate description of how their stuff displaces water, neutralizes surface acidity, and forms a persistent film on the surface of things I want to keep slippery and clean-ish. Probably doesn't market as well, so screaming irrelevancies about pores in your NiB coated BCG here we come!
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I realize I may be an outlier, but my experience as I've related before based on high count count, infrequent cleaning:
- Oil keeps my guns running fine.
- Grease may keep the rails looking nicer if used/replaced often but if I just want to go 2-4k rounds I end up with a paste full of debris that accelerates finish wear and compromises smooth function.
I tend to oil my guns heavily and then let the excess just flow off over the course of shooting at the range. In fact, more often than not I'm lubing the gun on the range for exactly that reason. But then the gun will easily go 2k+ rounds without getting any lubrication again. It's worked for me for a long, long time.