Complete dis-/re-assembly of a P226

[TumblinDown]

Using a pistol (even if more than casually) and servicing one are two different things. Not sure what got into me, but I decided to take it down to the tiny bits. As is usually the case, it all comes apart easier than it goes together, but other than a few nervous moments, I managed quite well and learned a few things along the way. The trickiest part by far was reassembling the fire control system in the frame -- getting all those relatively small parts in the right orientation on the sear pin. This is an older model with a folded slide and pinned in breechblock. I'm not aiming to be a gunsmith, and I probably won't do this often enough to be able to do it in the proverbial blindfolded manner, but it does feel good to know I can replace any part if I have to. Anything really hard will go to a pro, but simple problem-solving stuff seems very attainable.

One question though... I did notice a bit of "gunk" (if that's a technical term) in the end of the firing pin channel. No clue what was done earlier, but during re-assembly I made sure there was only the thinnest film of oil on the firing pin (as in only what was on my fingers during handling). I have been experiencing a few light strikes, and suppose the build-up could have been at least partially to blame. I cleaned it as best as I could with gun cleaner. Anything else to re-visit? Other likely culprits to be implicated?

[JV_]

I generally clean out firing pin channels with non chlorinated brake cleaner. It's an aerosol and has some force behind it, so it can clean out the channels well - especially when you followup with some q-tips. Make sure you use eye protection when using it, I'd also put on some gloves.

[5pins]

Did you remove the extractor form the breech block? If so it should have been replaced. Also the double roll pin, for breech block, should not be reused.
I like to keep my firing pin channels clean and dry. Flush it out like JV said.
Take it out and test fire it to make sure it’s working.

[John Hearne]

The firing pin system including lock should not be lubed in any way shape or form. The above mentioned brake cleaner is what is recommended.

The only other consideration is stainless firing pin or non-stainless firing pin. The older Sigs had non-stainless which were softer and deformed on the safety lock and could conceivably corrode. If I saw any wear on a non-stainless firing pin, I'd replace it.

[TumblinDown]

I generally clean out firing pin channels with non chlorinated brake cleaner. It's an aerosol and has some force behind it, so it can clean out the channels well - especially when you followup with some q-tips. Make sure you use eye protection when using it, I'd also put on some gloves.

Thanks for the tip on brake cleaner! I'll look for some. I do use nitrile gloves when doing work, and carry an extra set in my range bag just in case. I'll admit to not generally wearing eye pro when doing general things, but I'll do so with brake cleaner.

Did you remove the extractor form the breech block? If so it should have been replaced. Also the double roll pin, for breech block, should not be reused.
I like to keep my firing pin channels clean and dry.

Yes, I did remove the extractor, but not all at once, but only by slowly levering it on alternating sides. I've never heard that this should be replaced that often. Is this a factory recommendation? The double roll pins, yes, although I admit to not always doing so.

The firing pin system including lock should not be lubed in any way shape or form. The above mentioned brake cleaner is what is recommended.

The only other consideration is stainless firing pin or non-stainless firing pin. The older Sigs had non-stainless which were softer and deformed on the safety lock and could conceivably corrode. If I saw any wear on a non-stainless firing pin, I'd replace it.

I did replace the firing pin with a stainless one. The tip on the older one look flattened, whereas the new one was clearly domed.

I'll try it out and see what happens. If I still have issues, I may get a new firing pin spring to see if the one I have is a tad bit too long. After that, I'm running out of ideas. Thanks to all of you for the suggestions!!!!!!

[5pins]

Yes, I did remove the extractor, but not all at once, but only by slowly levering it on alternating sides. I've never heard that this should be replaced that often. Is this a factory recommendation? The double roll pins, yes, although I admit to not always doing so.

That’s what I was told when I took the armorers course last year. The instructor got an older sig and went over the slide with me because I was working for the Navy at the time and we had some M11’s. He also said it was ok to use the new single roll pin instead of the older two piece.

[LittleLebowski]

I generally clean out firing pin channels with non chlorinated brake cleaner. It's an aerosol and has some force behind it, so it can clean out the channels well - especially when you followup with some q-tips. Make sure you use eye protection when using it, I'd also put on some gloves.

And do it outside. Non chlorinated brake cleaner makes cleaning so easy.......

[John Hearne]

It's been several years since I attended a Sig armorer's course but I've been through the class ~4 times. I've never heard that removing the extractor from the breach block requires a new extractor. I seem to recall being told to separate the pieces to make it easier to clean the hook. I've detail stripped a bunch of old Sigs and never had any problems with pistols that had the extractor separated. The maximum lateral travel of the extractor is limited by the slide itself. As long as you don't bend the extractor to remove it, I wouldn't worry about replacing it.