Assessing Damage to Steel Targets

[Chance]

I’m new to owning / utilizing steel targets. I’ve shot plenty of steel before, but they were all someone else’s targets and, thusly, someone else’s problem.

Recently, I purchased some TacStrike 1/4" steel target systems. I posted a few questions prior to purchasing them, which you can find here. I have fired up to 7.62x39 Wolf Brand ammo at them, and the targets have done little more than lose some paint: no tangible surface deformations whatsoever. But then I started shooting 55 grain 5.56, and I had a problem.

According to TacStrike, the maximum velocity of a rifle round could not be more than 3,200 feet per second to keep the target from being damaged. The ammo we were using was rated at 3,176 feet per second. Upon harnessing the full might of my nigh-on immesurable brillance, I said, "It's only 3,176 feet per second? That's like, 24 whole feet per second slower than the maximum!"

Naturally, this happened.







The surface of the plates are tangibly dimpled. That's bad, right? Is this side of the plate not safe to use now? Can I use the other side of the plate (there are a few pieces of chipped paint, but the surface is smooth, so far as I can tell)?

I have some 62 grain 5.56 NATO lying around. Can I expect the same results from that load, assuming a 16" barrel out of an AR-15 platform? What is the norm for people shooting steel with 5.56, in terms of round weight, velocity, steel hardness, et cetera?

[Spr1]

Did they list a range at which that Steel is rated for 3200fps? Distance is your friend, as the velocity falls off.

[1slow]

I've used steel since the 1990s. MGM, Speedwell, Blackwater. So far MGM held up the best, Blackwater the worst as they did not radius neck to shoulder corners and stress cracks started.
All of my steel is rifle rated and I have used 5.56x45, 7.62x39, 7.62x51, .338 Lapua, .50 BMG/ Hornady AMAX.
5.56 seem to crater them the worst. As stated distance is your friend.

If you are working 7yd pistol etc... small craters will send back pieces that will cut you. BTDT. At more distance small craters are less of a risk.
I would keep CQB steel targets separate from the ones you shoot with 5.56. If I was working CQB with 5.56 I would use paper.

The BCC MGM steel target, that represents the ABC zone and hangs at a downward slant, is very good at putting bullet debris into the near ground rather than into you. I like the ones using 2x4 wood upright as it is easy to cut 2x4 to various heights.

[Chance]

Did they list a range at which that Steel is rated for 3200fps?

According to their safety agreement, rifles shouldn't be used within 75 yards. I was at least 100 yards from the targets when these photos were taken.

[Jay Cunningham]

5.56mm annihilates steel. Believe it or not, the 55 gr M193 round is worse than the 62 gr "penetrator" round. I would limit the range to 100 yards shooting steel with 5.56mm. If you need to work close I'd use frangible.

[BLR]

I actually used steel armor to illustrate strain rate effects on materials last semester. It was a big hit.

When you cross a velocity threshold (for most "armor" steel, it's about 2500fps or so), incremental increases in velocity yield exponential gains in damage potential.

[David Armstrong]

5.56mm annihilates steel. Believe it or not, the 55 gr M193 round is worse than the 62 gr "penetrator" round. I would limit the range to 100 yards shooting steel with 5.56mm. If you need to work close I'd use frangible.

Agreed. Mike Gibson (of MGM Targets) told me that long ago. Skinny bullet, high speed, not good for steel. Of course, I had to find out for myself. For the OP: Yes, you can just turn the targets around to the non-dimpled side and go back to shooting. If you are going to want to shoot the dimpled side use it at a greater distance to reduce the chance of problematic backsplash.

[Chance]

If you are going to want to shoot the dimpled side use it at a greater distance to reduce the chance of problematic backsplash.

So are there any hard-and-fast rules about what qualifies as a "dangerous" steel target, and what could still be acceptably used? Is "back splash," in this sense, having the entire round redirected and sent up-range? I'm only mildly concerned with getting fragged and primarily concerned with a mostly-intact round being sent in a funky direction.

[BLR]

So are there any hard-and-fast rules about what qualifies as a "dangerous" steel target, and what could still be acceptably used? Is "back splash," in this sense, having the entire round redirected and sent up-range? I'm only mildly concerned with getting fragged and primarily concerned with a mostly-intact round being sent in a funky direction.

Incident angle is the primary variable.

[Joe Mamma]

The surface of the plates are tangibly dimpled. That's bad, right? Is this side of the plate not safe to use now? Can I use the other side of the plate (there are a few pieces of chipped paint, but the surface is smooth, so far as I can tell)?

It's not that bad. I've shot a lot of steel, and I would still use that target.

I'd shoot the same side with 5.56 (not too close), and use the "good side" for close range pistol stuff. What 1slow said about throwing jackets back at you is a real concern.

Most experienced steel shooters would not shoot the cratered side up close with a 5.56 with a target holder like the one you are using. Even though that holding system allows the plate to absorb some of the hit, it's not as good as some swingers (in my opinion) which are angled down and also absorb a lot.

Joe Mamma