Somewhere in this thread they showed someone was prototyping an adapter but never saw more than a picture.Originally Posted by CoGT3
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Somewhere in this thread they showed someone was prototyping an adapter but never saw more than a picture.
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Shooting my 1301T on fast steel today, I found the ORM aperture sights between the front and rear ears, and various dots, to be extremely cluttered (read slow). I am thinking of removing the rear aperture sight and going with just an Aimpoint micro and no rear aperture sight. Anyone done this?
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
I don't have a 1301 (yet), but I despise fixed irons when using an optic. Way too busy and as you said, cluttered. I'm hoping for a fold down option for the 1301 before I buy one.
Might take drilling a few holes and chopping it, but the curvature on this piece will probably match the receiver if you want to ditch the plastic.
http://www.berettausa.com/en-us/bere...01-tx4/e5d864/
Actual product descriptions and info on Beretta's site suck, but this says it's aluminum:
https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/prod...82442135489.do
Is there something about the supplied rail on the 1301 T that makes it a no go for plopping a micro on?
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
A buddy who has one has complained about the plastic taking a set when something was clamped to it, and the altered geometry causing return to zero issues.
I'd also replace the screws. I was there when the head broke off one of his screws at the range. Started horizontal stringing by 4 inches or so at 25 yards with slugs. Standard-taper flat head screws will require different countersinks in the rail.
I'm assuming that it's because it's made of plastic.
Hi all, longtime first time and such. Got a 1301 Comp largely on all of your advice, and I'm loving it, so thank you. Also got the bikini-style bolt release shroud, which is great. Thanks, Tom.
I just wanted to share my solution to the (ongoing?) question of how to mount a light to the forend. Being a Minnesotan with family and friends working at 3M, I naturally looked at their products. A strip of 3M's VHB worked great to mount a Magpul rail section to the forend. Just cleaned both surfaces with rubbing alcohol beforehand, pressed hard to work the adhesive. Works great even with 1600 fps slugs.
I also tried 3M DualLock (a super-velcro type thing) which was even more adaptable, and worked for reduced recoil loads but would pop the light off when firing full power loads. Not recommended.
Anyway, thanks again.
Very interesting. I may want to mount a light on a rifle that would not typically be designed for one, and this solution is worth looking into.Hi all, longtime first time and such. Got a 1301 Comp largely on all of your advice, and I'm loving it, so thank you. Also got the bikini-style bolt release shroud, which is great. Thanks, Tom.
I just wanted to share my solution to the (ongoing?) question of how to mount a light to the forend. Being a Minnesotan with family and friends working at 3M, I naturally looked at their products. A strip of 3M's VHB worked great to mount a Magpul rail section to the forend. Just cleaned both surfaces with rubbing alcohol beforehand, pressed hard to work the adhesive. Works great even with 1600 fps slugs.
I also tried 3M DualLock (a super-velcro type thing) which was even more adaptable, and worked for reduced recoil loads but would pop the light off when firing full power loads. Not recommended.
Anyway, thanks again.
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Is there clearance between the forend and the magazine to mount a rail using a drill and hardware? The 3M tape is a good idea but I'd be more confident using something I can verify tightness on.
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