Trigger management during target transition

I'm shooting an M&P40 with Apex DCAEK (5 lb trigger pull, reasonably short reset). I probably have a total of 3000 rounds with this handgun since starting to shoot some 6 months ago. I've started to shoot IDPA and Steel Challenge.

Even at the range during slow fire I find I'm more accurate if I just go to reset between shots: relax trigger finger 'til reset, apply a bit of pressure, refine sight picture, squeeze trigger. I'm not sure of the best approach during competition when engaging targets (steel or paper) that require a significant line-of-sight shift: reset immediately after the final shot on the first target and acquire the second target (I'm on the trigger during this acquisition period) or wait until the gun is "on" the second target and stage the trigger as I'm finalizing the sight picture?

I'm thinking this is a very individual thing and will probably depend on the specific gun/trigger characteristics, but I'd be interested in knowing what other do in these situations.

If you train it, it works very well for competition. I try to reset the trigger while the gun is actually moving between targets. That way all I have to go is wait for the sight to settle on the new target and break the shot.

I relax enough in recoil for my hard resetting Glock triggers to run out, but I don't try to ride the reset to JUST the reset. I don't trust that technique. As such I'm prepping with take up as I'm indexing on the next target transitioned to.

I agree with PPGMD and JHC.

Trigger reset is ok as an initial learning device, but it will ultimately have to be done while the gun is in recoil and being driven to the target spot, whether that is another shot on the same target spot or a shot on a new target spot. It will become limiting if resetting the trigger is only done after the sights are back on target. And as JHC said, going only to the reset leaves no margin for shortened movements due to tension. Trigger freeze may happen more often if letting the trigger out only the minimum distance to reset.

Thanks for the quick responses! Great points all as summarized below:

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Originally Posted by OrigamiAK

... It will become limiting if resetting the trigger is only done after the sights are back on target. And as JHC said, going only to the reset leaves no margin for shortened movements due to tension. ....

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I agree completely that I need to train beyond reset, not all the way to complete slack, and be able to take out the slack and apply some pressure without resulting in a jerk. What I find at the range is that I'm less accurate when going beyond reset even when shooting relatively slowly. There's no good reason since I should be able to separate the elements of trigger manipulation but I'm not there yet.

People who try to ride the reset to a razor's edge forget that there is a certain amount of variability to fine muscle movements and, as OAK said, that means they are more likely to trigger freeze. Learning to reset in recoil is the key, and recoil lasts long enough that you can afford to reset somewhere between the reset point and full slack trigger (for most guns).

When firing slowly with my M&P w/ DCAEK, I just try to concentrate on resetting to the point where I feel the compound trigger starting to move (close) under my finger - that's what I think of as "full tactile contact" with the trigger. At speed, I don't even really think of it anymore but I had a lot of problems with trigger freeze when I started on the M&P (especially before installing the RAM) as I was going to the exact point of reset during slow fire and it seemed to form bad muscle memory.

I'm not sure you need to do what I do, but for me that's a nice place where I know I'm not going to slap the trigger and I know I'm not going to freeze the trigger.

Generally, I just try to keep contact with the trigger and press it back when my sights are on target. Reset/taking out the slack is nice for longer shots that take more time though. But even then, I try not to let a single trigger stroke be a jerky, uneven pull where I try to stop at a certain point and the all at once crash through the trigger press

I improved much of my trigger work by switching to an SA 9mm 1911 and I'm not too proud to admit it. Seriously, my wife and I love this new platform. I've improved my trigger management with both the M&P and the 1911, but mostly shooting the 1911 since that's the "competition" gun. Reset is short and even overshooting I can get back on the trigger quickly. It also helps that I'm reloading softer loads now so recoil is much, much less than factory ammo in the 40S&W.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ToddG

People who try to ride the reset to a razor's edge forget that there is a certain amount of variability to fine muscle movements and, as OAK said, that means they are more likely to trigger freeze. Learning to reset in recoil is the key, and recoil lasts long enough that you can afford to reset somewhere between the reset point and full slack trigger (for most guns).

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This.

Rob Leatham did some slow motion videos recently of his trigger press while he was hosing a close target. There was very little consistency shot to shot. Sometimes his finger would come way off the trigger, other times he would have a shorter reset/trigger stroke. The point is, if you try to just ride the reset under recoil to them minimal amount needed to reset the trigger, you run the risk of short stroking it and pressing a dead trigger on your next shot. Learn to work the trigger to a generous enough amount of reset that you don't get caught on the short side of the variation.